Weegie

No reply from SD and being impatient just went ahead and ordered one to see if it works (I doubt it). With other odds and ends to do on the bikes it would be nice just to get something that's plug & play I'll post up on the forum on viability when I receive it Trying to mod the fuel taps looks difficult enough Thanks @docc & @Lucky Phil

Taking off the tank on the Magni 1100 (Sporti in a dress) the fuel tap eventually couldn't take it any more, got 2 new replacements on order from Setin Dinse (the second is for the Hi Cam bike). https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/moto-guzzi-petcock-m16x1-daytona-rs-california-3-i-e/item-1-1020242-3357-3.html The fuel level sensor on the bike hasn't worked since I got it, probably a previous owner cross connected the polarity at the tank connector which apparently destroys them. Anyway I know it's a thermistor unit and I've read a few of the threads on the topic, including @Lucky Phil repair. I've got some cheap thermistors on order from AliExpress, but in the meantime I came across this on the Stein Dinse site. https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/moto-guzzi-fuel-tank-sensor-daytona-racing-1100-sport/item-afm__609-1139-afm__m_.preis-0.25_.3704.62-categoryId-6797-itemId-1431735.html?afm_m-preis=0.25-3704.62&afm_609=1139 Installing a superseal plug (for the electrical connections) won't be a problem and I know that this type of float switch was used for some other Guzzi models I believe the Cali was one. The fitting on the tank is an external M20x1 and wondering if it would fit (that's the same size as the fitting on a standard Sporti tank). The fuel tap uses a similar approach where the fitting on the tank is an external M16x1. A collar nut screws onto both the tank fitting and the fuel tap's external threads, with a sealing washer between them. I did send a mail to Stein Dinse but I've yet to receive a reply and quite frankly I'm not holding my breath I'll wait for a week to see if SD reply, I've also asked them a simpler mail asking thread sizes. Tempted to try it as they aren't too expensive and it would save a lot of hassle, time and mess, even if it won't be quite as good as thermistor unit. Comments appreciated John

My Daytona which was an early version in the UK had the 2 white clocks, the speedo was in kph with small mph markings on the inside (just like the mph one on that bike has kph markings on the inside) My Magni 1100, esentially a Sporti had that style of speedo though, so I wouldn't rule out that its not original. More likely it's down to what was available in the factory at the time and what the US regulatory bodies were demanding so bikes could be sold there. IMHO its a bit of an eyesore and that speedo style was used on the LM 1000s as I recall. The tach is identical to all the Sportis and Daytonas I've seen too

I didn't find the clutch pull on mine any heavier than other Guzzis, I did notice that the arm onto the gearbox could get gummed up with road debris, possibly due to the larger rear section tyre, so worth checking. As Phil states cable condition and routing also make a big difference. Looks like an early Daytona, the forks on them weren't the best, quite a few replaced them with GSXR forks. The oil pump which is a known weakness, but at that mileage not an immediate concern The standard Daytona didn't suffer from the oil pressure and overheating issues I've had with the C kit cams, so of no concern. The engine is great, totally different in character from a 2 v/v and IMHO a huge amount of fun to ride. Apart from acess as the front being a bit cramped (due to the belts), they are easy to work on as any of the 2 v/v bikes too.

Although I've never owned a V11 I do have a Hi Cam and an R9T (a 2017 Racer). IMHO Pete hits the nail on the head, the boxer engine sounds lame! If you can get over that and the weight, mine feels significantly heavier than the Guzzis, the experience isn't that far apart. I purchased mine as I like retro styled bikes, don't need the power and like the overall simplicity of aircooled twins (especially with protruding jugs). If you're anything like me I'm sure you'll enjoy it. On the other hand you miight be subject to

Can't tell from the dimensions but the mounting holes angles look right. Voltage, power and number of teeth are the correct spec.

Is he not the Cycle World Tech Gnu? Ton of videos out on YouTube where there's a conversation between him and the Editor about various aspects of Motor Cycles I watched the thread on oil as with my HiCam travails I've a passing interest and didn't find any "light bulb" moments. Found the rambling nature of the discussions hard going, but that's just me I guess

I agree and an oil analysis will, most likely, highlight problems sooner than a mechanical issue than a noise or vibration. I thought I said as much in my first post. I don't do it, because it's more expensive in the UK and I very much doubt I'd have the requisite skills to accurately diagnose the exact cause. The cam to valve transmission train as suggested by Phil, the bearing caps, me no clue? All it would tell me is my engine might be developing a problem. Personally I doubt I'd tear an engine down to investigate based on that alone If it was going Dogga Dogga then I would and yes all engines can suddenly go bang, it's all down to known faults and probabilities. All an analysis would do for me is worry and ruin every run out I had.............BUT THAT'S JUST ME If your skills diagnositc skills are better than mine, which honestly would not be hard, great it will then save you time and expense in the long run.+

Generally agree Phil and had similar experience with large gas turbine machines, but power generation, for the majority, in my case. Oil sampling may have a valid application for race engines or if you do Winter maintenance yourself and like tinkering. Perhaps a particular anomally might lead to an investigative tear down to check. After all Guzzis are easy to work on generally and acess good. Better checked in the Winter than tearing down an engine when you could be riding in the summer. Thing is though generally something like our engines will usually give you plenty of other warnings before going ballistic. As for borescopes, these can be had for relatively little money these days too and IMHO also have their uses, even if that is just for peace of mind. Just saying it's horses for courses, I'm probably a little OCD, but I've never been tempted to go down that rabbit hole (yet).

I replaced the OEM alloy gears in my HiCam engine with steel versions from Joe The OEM crank driving gear is steel, but the oil pump and cam were allo I just thought it was prudent, the amount of effort to turn an engine and compress the valve springs said to me that it might not be prudent to have alloy as a suitable material

I know nothing of the systems you're referring to or the V85, I just chimed in response to @ScuRoo comment on the O2 sensor and I've no clue what's on a V85 Most OEM lambdas fitted are narrow band, meaning they only "see" close to Stoichiometric conditions, so they can only sense rich/perfect/lean conditions. AFAIK that then causes a short term fuel trim to start adjusting towards target, but the sensor can only tell the ECU I'm to rich/lean and then an iteration process begins until the sensor detects a different condition. More expensive wide band sensors can tell the ECU the value over a wider range (or band) so the ECU can react to the O2 value, so it's faster and fuel values can be more accurately targeted. No clue with the Guzzis as mine are all ancient open mapped, but some of the Beemers use RpidBike Modules which piggyback the ECU and adjust mapping on the fly. Some modules can use wideband sensors to adjust fuelling to a chosen A/F ratio which can even be seen (if desired) by another add on and targets adjusted on the fly. https://www.dimsport.it/en/rapid-bike/youtune/ Probably of no relevance whatsoever, but thought I'd mention it, apologies if I'm way off topic

I prefer this guy, he's a good bit easier on the ear https://www.youtube.com/@LubricationExplained

I watch "Driving 4 answers" content too Phil and although I knew some of the story, I found that video quite shocking. As for "Stuart Fillingham" the YouTuber on the first post, he's forever posting grossly over exaggerated vids on nefarious beaurocrats coming after yer bikes. Of his videos I've watched they're exagerated and misinformed. I cannot stand his accent nor narration and think he does it to up his views, which I class as duplicitous. One quote from Pete that always made me smile and I'm paraphrasing, ........."If anybody complains, just tell them the bike runs on very old sunshine"

That's a real pity, I'll bet it was beautifully made. Perhaps me getting older, but I just find machines nowadays not nearly so well made

After a few cheaper machines, eventually ended up with a lever unit, which was obscenely expensive and stupidly simple in construction. Its just a boiler, or pressure vessel if you prefer the technical jargon, with tubing to the group head, the group head has a large lever and a take off to the steam wand. You raise the lever to charge the group head with water then a slow steady downward pull forces the water through the basket (and coffee) and into the cup. The boiler runs between 1-1.5 bar and it can only really make one cup at a time and using it takes a bit of practice. The most important point, in my experience, is getting the grinder settings right. I also weigh the beans, for a weaker cup use 12 grams and 15 for a stronger one. When steaming the boiler pressure will drop to around 0.5 bar but for even a larger cup it will happily steam sufficient milk straight out the fridge (4C or so) to 60-65C very quickly and when finished be back up to full pressure in 15-30 seconds. From what I've seen water temp has to be around 85C or thereabouts and extraction pressure of 9bar, although it varies from roast to roast. The reason it can be a bit hit and miss, is you only know the boiler pressure and not the group head, although the machine can be modified to install one. I like a strong cup and dilute it with milk something between a machiato and a cappuchino, makes a cup as good or better than many commercial cafes around here Coffee I currently enjoy is Ueshima, a Japanese brand, my wife likes the lighter roasts from Africa both of which we get from our local supermarket. I spent around 2 years frequently travelling to Italy, both in north and south and can't remember ever having a bad cup of coffee, even though many of them were made on small home sized machines. In every other country I went to, including the UK it was usually the opposite.