Weegie

These look great Phil I'd love to have a set in the Australia, but I don't think I could justify the cost and the not inconsiderabel hassle of pulling the Australia to pieces to install them Is that the modded Service Shaft (as Guzzi call it) cut down similar to the MGS-01................Nice, going to be one helluva engine. Large slice of green cheese for Weegie

Although I haven't conversed with Joe in a long time, I used to be in quite frequent contact with him He's made several bits and pieces for me over the years and everything he sold me and a few other Guzzi folks I know has been really well made. A few racers have used his gear sets for which he's renowned his other big mod was an oil pump and gears too for the HiCam engines. The original oil pump design on the HiCam engines being badly flawed and led to several engines being reduced to scrap. I heard he was liasing with Phil on an update to the oil pump design for the HiCam, perhaps @Lucky Phil will chip in and tell us more Joe's a huge Guzzi fan and very knowledgable as well as being a really nice guy, PM me if you want his mail address, I just don't like putting it out on a public forum

Absolutely agree with your sentiments and I have them on all my Guzzis. If you do cover high mileages then perhaps its down to the individual's cost/benefit analysis. The OEM duplex chain set up lasts a very long time and very rarely gives any trouble. Guzzi owners are renowned for their frugality (euphanism for tight wads) so I ASSumed most wouldn't shell out for a gear set As to noise, I can here them sometimes but not always, my pipes are a bit louder than stock and I wear earplugs. The noise is nothing like you hear from a straight cut gearbox, like my Sporti.

Like Phil I have them in my Guzzis & think they're a worthwhile addition, no more timing issues, ignition or cam Installed easily and trouble free, great product, but yes probably OTT on a road bike I don't think you need any more recommendations than Pete syaing he'd jump on them if building a 2 v/v When you consider Pete's warnings in the past on timing gears, it's a clarion call as to the quality of Joe's gear sets. I'd jump on them if I was even considering using or building an engine they'd fit in the future

My nomiker on WG was Old Jock, so you'll see me on the thread I posted the link to If it needs replacing (& I mentioned it on the WG thread, but haven't had to replace the Reg/Rec yet) everybody seems to use Euromoto electric, personally I'd consider installing one of the Mosfet regulators from Shindengen. Although the 2 offerings from Shindengen are for 3 phase Alternators they can be used in a single phase configuration, check with Jack at Roadstercycle if you're thinking about it. http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm There is both a shunt regulator FH020AA(shorts the alternator output) and a series SH847 (opens the alternator output), with the series being a good bit more expensive. The original Ducati energia Reg/Rec is a series type (according to @Kiwi_Roy ) which is unusual. The reason for mentioning Shindengen is everybody in the Guzzi community purchases from Euromoto Electric (personally not a fan as they don't reveal any tech info and some of their kits void warranty if an AGM or LiFe battery is used). Everybody from Ducati (AFAIK) uses Shindengen as replacements. One more thing don't use any of Flea Bay offerings which are ridiculously cheap as they are not the real item and God Knows what's inside them I'll get off my soapbox and get ma coat

Not sure if I'm looking at the correct wiring diagram, but is fuse 3 good and the connections to it? I think that's the Reg/Rec feed to the battery 30A Is this the Ducati Energia Reg/Rec?................. @docc will know If it's the same Reg/Rec as used on the 1100 Sporti, there was quite a good thread on it on WG years back, but that in that was for a bike not charging Here's a link https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=84467.0 I'd check it's the same Reg/Rec first & I could be talking out my ass

More a point of academic interest, but I wondered why Stein Dinse were advertising this sensor when it was clearly the wrong part, or so I thought! I'll save you all the details but from a parts manual dive, it appears that early the early Daytona and Sport bikes used a float sensor as sold by Stein Dinse and around 96 changed to the thermistor design. Just for the geeks

If the rear brake was anything like the one on my 1098 I'm surprised he was able to notice The standing joke UK Ducati Forum was the rear pads were guaranteed for life

The fitting on the tank is an externally threaded 20mm diameter fine thread, the internal diameter of the fitting 10mm smooth bore. EDIT For Info I think the pitch is 1.0mm as best I can measure The sender slides into the tank through the smooth bore and a lip at the its base holds it captive on the base of the nut seen at the bottom. The top hex part of the nut is 20mm and screws onto the external threads of the tank fitting (a bit confusing but it's the best I can do to explain it) The fitting on the Steinse Dinse sender is 16mm so it's too large to install into the tank. Some sort of collar/adapter nut to extend and step the 16mm thread to a 20mm might work, but it would be "Heath Robinson" at best and probably look horrible. It would also lower the height of the sender in the tank, altering the volume of fuel left in the tank and reduce reserve capacity. I reckon it would be easier to purchase a thermistor and purchase parts to make a new thermistor, as Phil did in this thread, although that's not that easy either. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30780-fuel-level-sensor/page/2/

Well the sender arrived today, doesn't fit!!!! If you look at the photo in the first post you can see the base of the sender has an threaded nut and a collar nut, identical to the methodology for the fuel tap, the sender on the Magni (& I'm 99% sure the Daytona, RS and Sporti will be the same) is an M20 and it's externally threaded on the tank fitting with a smooth internal bore, whereas the fuel tap connection uses an M16 internally threaded fitting. I offered the sender up to the tank, the float section is fine but the nut is too large to install inside the fitting on the tank so I don't think there would even be a way to get it to fit unless the nut on the base was turned down to approx 10mm and stepped to around 16mm (I think). Thought it was too good to be true and I was correct, also informed SD that the item won't install on any of the morocycles they advertise it as fitting

Guess I'll never really know unless I open it, even then, unless it was glaringly obvious, I'd doubt I'd know the difference, so I'll proabably not bother My own experience is the 2 v/v bikes prime easier than the HiCam. I'll take Phil's and gstallons advice in future. Just primed the HiCam and all was normal there, a few short turns 3-4 seconds each time on the starter and the pressure built up as normal (same filter type and ordered at the same time from the same vendor) Of course it could be coincidence that the system primed on the Sporti after I changed the filter, I'm not wholly convinced. That said it's not the first time I've been wrong and then there is Occam's Razor too. It also may have been that particular filter offered a little too much resistance, a relatively small pressure drop upstream of the pump would probably be enough to stop the system priming Thank you to everybody who responded your thoughts on the topic were much appreciated John

I didn't insepct the filter. When filling the filter I thought it took longer than normal for the oil to penetrate the media and fill the outer periphery. On removal tilting the filter oil in the centre was slow to percolate through to the outer. Thinking about it, it probably wasn't blocked but the media seemed denser and fluid slower to penetrate it than normal The sealing ring was fine both sides, as I removed it to check. I've more or less got what you suggest, its piped to a pressure gauge, if the gauge is correct you wouldn't want an open ended hose when it primes it gets up to 20psi almost immediatley and 60 in a few seconds. I can't rule that out, but inclined to disbelieve it. After god knows how many times turning the engine over and nothing the pressure gauge never flickered off the stop. Installed another filter and 3 short turns on the starter and BOOM! system pressure, which is exactly what I'd normally expect when re-priming the system. Now if it had been the HiCam then perhaps............................ I purchased 3 of these filters and next on the list to check is the HiCam engined bike. If it doesn't prime as expected, I'll have a good idea what to do next, either way I'm going to find out Re the filter its in the trash so I could fish it out and cut it open, but it'll be horrible as it's saturated in oil. If I get the time I'll do that. Nobody is more surprised than me, if somebody had posted this up, I'd have found it difficult to believe, I wasn't even going to start this thread. Did so in the off chance that something similar happened to somebody else. The scary thing is if I wasn't so bloody anal, I'd have filled it, started it and perhaps seriously damaged the engine.

Just had a weird experience I drained the engine oil a few weeks back and a few days back got around to putting a fresh fill of oil and a new filter into the Sporti a few days back. That's nothing new, I've left the bike without fresh oil in it for longer and never had any problems when refilling with fresh oil. I always prefill the oil filter with fresh oil as well. After a fresh fill I disable the fuel pump remove the plugs (it also gives me a chance to check them) and turn the bike over on the starter until I establish pressure. Maybe a bit OTT but my logic is the bigends will not be loaded as much if not having compression loads on them until I'm sure everything is getting fed with oil. This time I turned the engine over on short cycles and it just wouldn't establish pressure, perhaps 20 short cycles nothing. I knew for sure this was the case as the oil pressure light was coming on immediatley after stopping the turns on the starter and the gauge wasn't reading pressure either (as I recall when turning the engine on the starter the oil pressure light is disabled). Drained the new oil last night, dropped the sump and pulled the filter to check, everything was as it should be, filter O ring was in place, filter tight and everything in the sump was it should be. When I upturned the filter it was extremely slow to empty. I had a gauze rewashable filter to hand I installed that. I know these aren't as good as paper filters, that's why I stopped using it, but as it was the only thing to hand I prefilled and installed it. Just went through another cycle of turning the engine over on the starter and after the 3rd short cycle, up came the pressure, that's normally what I'd expect when doing this. I'll leave the gauze filter in this year and go back to a normal paper filter cartdridge next year. Never came across this behaviour before and wonder was the brand new paper filter blocked? Can't think of anything else as it was the only thing changed. The filter was a Mahle OC1314 I've been using that brand for several years and never had a problem. Be interested if better brains than mine have any ideas or if anybody has heard of anything similar.

That's very kind of you Phil and I may well take you up on it. @MartyNZ did post in a drawing of the mod but looking at it, I can't make out the measurements for the positioning of the slot. He did give the length and depth, but I didn't see a datum point on the plunger/spool on where to place it . If I could get/understand the dimensions I could take the plunger/spool to the local machinists to see if they could carry out the necessary milling operation Don't think the postage would be any more expensive than having to purchase more fuel taps and it would be great to have them working as they should. I use the taps at least twice a year (usually more) when just doing normal service jobs on the 1100 and the HiCam. Very much appreciated, thank you John PS: More to follow on the fuel level sender when it arrives

No reply from SD and being impatient just went ahead and ordered one to see if it works (I doubt it). With other odds and ends to do on the bikes it would be nice just to get something that's plug & play I'll post up on the forum on viability when I receive it Trying to mod the fuel taps looks difficult enough Thanks @docc & @Lucky Phil

Taking off the tank on the Magni 1100 (Sporti in a dress) the fuel tap eventually couldn't take it any more, got 2 new replacements on order from Setin Dinse (the second is for the Hi Cam bike). https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/moto-guzzi-petcock-m16x1-daytona-rs-california-3-i-e/item-1-1020242-3357-3.html The fuel level sensor on the bike hasn't worked since I got it, probably a previous owner cross connected the polarity at the tank connector which apparently destroys them. Anyway I know it's a thermistor unit and I've read a few of the threads on the topic, including @Lucky Phil repair. I've got some cheap thermistors on order from AliExpress, but in the meantime I came across this on the Stein Dinse site. https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/moto-guzzi-fuel-tank-sensor-daytona-racing-1100-sport/item-afm__609-1139-afm__m_.preis-0.25_.3704.62-categoryId-6797-itemId-1431735.html?afm_m-preis=0.25-3704.62&afm_609=1139 Installing a superseal plug (for the electrical connections) won't be a problem and I know that this type of float switch was used for some other Guzzi models I believe the Cali was one. The fitting on the tank is an external M20x1 and wondering if it would fit (that's the same size as the fitting on a standard Sporti tank). The fuel tap uses a similar approach where the fitting on the tank is an external M16x1. A collar nut screws onto both the tank fitting and the fuel tap's external threads, with a sealing washer between them. I did send a mail to Stein Dinse but I've yet to receive a reply and quite frankly I'm not holding my breath I'll wait for a week to see if SD reply, I've also asked them a simpler mail asking thread sizes. Tempted to try it as they aren't too expensive and it would save a lot of hassle, time and mess, even if it won't be quite as good as thermistor unit. Comments appreciated John

My Daytona which was an early version in the UK had the 2 white clocks, the speedo was in kph with small mph markings on the inside (just like the mph one on that bike has kph markings on the inside) My Magni 1100, esentially a Sporti had that style of speedo though, so I wouldn't rule out that its not original. More likely it's down to what was available in the factory at the time and what the US regulatory bodies were demanding so bikes could be sold there. IMHO its a bit of an eyesore and that speedo style was used on the LM 1000s as I recall. The tach is identical to all the Sportis and Daytonas I've seen too

I didn't find the clutch pull on mine any heavier than other Guzzis, I did notice that the arm onto the gearbox could get gummed up with road debris, possibly due to the larger rear section tyre, so worth checking. As Phil states cable condition and routing also make a big difference. Looks like an early Daytona, the forks on them weren't the best, quite a few replaced them with GSXR forks. The oil pump which is a known weakness, but at that mileage not an immediate concern The standard Daytona didn't suffer from the oil pressure and overheating issues I've had with the C kit cams, so of no concern. The engine is great, totally different in character from a 2 v/v and IMHO a huge amount of fun to ride. Apart from acess as the front being a bit cramped (due to the belts), they are easy to work on as any of the 2 v/v bikes too.

Although I've never owned a V11 I do have a Hi Cam and an R9T (a 2017 Racer). IMHO Pete hits the nail on the head, the boxer engine sounds lame! If you can get over that and the weight, mine feels significantly heavier than the Guzzis, the experience isn't that far apart. I purchased mine as I like retro styled bikes, don't need the power and like the overall simplicity of aircooled twins (especially with protruding jugs). If you're anything like me I'm sure you'll enjoy it. On the other hand you miight be subject to

Can't tell from the dimensions but the mounting holes angles look right. Voltage, power and number of teeth are the correct spec.

Is he not the Cycle World Tech Gnu? Ton of videos out on YouTube where there's a conversation between him and the Editor about various aspects of Motor Cycles I watched the thread on oil as with my HiCam travails I've a passing interest and didn't find any "light bulb" moments. Found the rambling nature of the discussions hard going, but that's just me I guess

I agree and an oil analysis will, most likely, highlight problems sooner than a mechanical issue than a noise or vibration. I thought I said as much in my first post. I don't do it, because it's more expensive in the UK and I very much doubt I'd have the requisite skills to accurately diagnose the exact cause. The cam to valve transmission train as suggested by Phil, the bearing caps, me no clue? All it would tell me is my engine might be developing a problem. Personally I doubt I'd tear an engine down to investigate based on that alone If it was going Dogga Dogga then I would and yes all engines can suddenly go bang, it's all down to known faults and probabilities. All an analysis would do for me is worry and ruin every run out I had.............BUT THAT'S JUST ME If your skills diagnositc skills are better than mine, which honestly would not be hard, great it will then save you time and expense in the long run.+

Generally agree Phil and had similar experience with large gas turbine machines, but power generation, for the majority, in my case. Oil sampling may have a valid application for race engines or if you do Winter maintenance yourself and like tinkering. Perhaps a particular anomally might lead to an investigative tear down to check. After all Guzzis are easy to work on generally and acess good. Better checked in the Winter than tearing down an engine when you could be riding in the summer. Thing is though generally something like our engines will usually give you plenty of other warnings before going ballistic. As for borescopes, these can be had for relatively little money these days too and IMHO also have their uses, even if that is just for peace of mind. Just saying it's horses for courses, I'm probably a little OCD, but I've never been tempted to go down that rabbit hole (yet).

I replaced the OEM alloy gears in my HiCam engine with steel versions from Joe The OEM crank driving gear is steel, but the oil pump and cam were allo I just thought it was prudent, the amount of effort to turn an engine and compress the valve springs said to me that it might not be prudent to have alloy as a suitable material

I know nothing of the systems you're referring to or the V85, I just chimed in response to @ScuRoo comment on the O2 sensor and I've no clue what's on a V85 Most OEM lambdas fitted are narrow band, meaning they only "see" close to Stoichiometric conditions, so they can only sense rich/perfect/lean conditions. AFAIK that then causes a short term fuel trim to start adjusting towards target, but the sensor can only tell the ECU I'm to rich/lean and then an iteration process begins until the sensor detects a different condition. More expensive wide band sensors can tell the ECU the value over a wider range (or band) so the ECU can react to the O2 value, so it's faster and fuel values can be more accurately targeted. No clue with the Guzzis as mine are all ancient open mapped, but some of the Beemers use RpidBike Modules which piggyback the ECU and adjust mapping on the fly. Some modules can use wideband sensors to adjust fuelling to a chosen A/F ratio which can even be seen (if desired) by another add on and targets adjusted on the fly. https://www.dimsport.it/en/rapid-bike/youtune/ Probably of no relevance whatsoever, but thought I'd mention it, apologies if I'm way off topic