Weegie

Thank's @docc Good with me and if it helps the forum or other members then all the better. Do I need to do anything, let me know? I'll just keep the diagrams in my Dropbox, don't anticipate any problems with them residing there as it isn't something I use much anyway. Should you want to rehouse them that's also fine.

Surprised nobody has mentioned Carl Allison's schematics, I've found them pretty good, occassionally they have the odd error, but overall very easy to read. The factory wiring diagrams are pretty difficult to follow, at least for me Available on This Old Tractor, Gregg Bender's site https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html I'm taking a chance here but as @Kiwi_Roy seems to have gone Off Grid, I've dumped what schematics I have of his onto Drop Box in case anybody would like to grab them. I'm pretty sure he won't mind https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/no8adkie1sl6frnc2qmm8/ALzrUXsngCqMRtfMR1cXedE?rlkey=8x5byzd4ux3107610i22ig5v6&st=3xbx7rbu&dl=0

Lots of different flavours available, not only manufacturer but type. I have a similar mod on one of mine, now redundant as a H4 LED bulb is installed. I just used some spare Panasonic mini relays I had to hand (similar in size and form factor as the OEM relays on the bike). As long as they are 12V and 20A or greater current capacity with a normally open contact they'll be more than up to the job. Diodes on the relay coils shouldn't be necessary for the application. What I would do is what @audiomick already suggested and purchase not only relays but also bases. Makes the job neater, the terminals more secure and if anything went wrong a damm site easier to change out.

I've got an 2017 R9T Racer, picked it up about 3 years back for £7k with less than 3k miles, thought it wasn't a bad deal So far I've had no problems and really like it, good linear midrange, but IMHO they aren't as engaging as the Guzzis, a little less soul. The stock suspension is pretty dire, replaced the rear shock with a Wilbers unit and an Ohlins cartridge kit in the forks, transformed the bike The other thing I miss is the exhaust note, I've got a Zard on mine, so it's louder than stock, but the exhaust note is flat and monotone. The riding position on the Racer is pretty extreme, radical clip ons and stretched over the tank. That doesn't appear to be the case though with the R12 I know nothing of the R12S but I do really like the looks, the grumblings on the Beemer forum I'm on is mainly the price. A few have purchased one, but yet to see an owner's report. My Racer, its beem modified a little since the pictures, nothing too radical though

To the best of my knowledge the low level fuel warning "transmitter" is an NTC thermistor. That's why the lamp glows before full brightness, avalanche effect of the current increase causing further heating and lowering circuit resistance further I've no clue on quantitative resistance values. Could the backfeed not find a path to ground on the Hi Beam Relay through the Hi Beam bulb? Coil resistance in the relay could easily drop the voltage sufficiently that the bulb won't light but still provide a path to ground. I know Guzzi used a similar scheme on the single indicator dash warning lamp on some models. The indicator warning light grounds through the indicator bulbs on the opposite side selected. Personally I wouldn't bother, the scheme is now working as intended. Chasing grounds could take forever and result in finding nothing Hell I still don't even know if I'm using the correct wiring diagram.

The bar switch provides positive voltage when the beam is selected I think the Lo Beam relay is wired correctly (although why he wired back to the battery on the coil side seems OTT) The Hi Beam has a Positive from the battery (85) and (86) is wired to the bar switch, this where things go awry and probably accounts for the wierd behaviour of the beams with ignition Off. The battery will be backfeeding positive voltage into the switch (it won't do any harm but probably result in wierd behavour). The Hi Beam Green wire to (85) should be connected to battery negative I apologise to @audiomick if that's what he stated in the previous posts, I just couldn't understand, which says more about me than him You could wait for another member to confirm, no harm on a second opinion

Doesn't sound like the battery then Usual check on the Alternator is to measure the output wire with a multimeter set to AC Volts Figures are in the manual I believe, if the same as the Sporti they are 15 V AC @ 1k RPM 40 V AC @ 3k RPM 80 V AC @ 6k RPM I'm not ruling it out but still leaning toward something amiss in the system wiring or the Reg/Rec One other thing that intrigued me, it looked like the Reg/Rec was for a 3 phase Alternator, that's fine its just 2 of the phases aren't used. Oh and the manual also has current figures for the system, looks like it's meant to max out at a little over 27A Where's @Kiwi_Roy when you need him?

I'm not quite sure I understand, you state poor charge then say a 30A breaker is tripping often? I'm unaware of this mod but guessing it's replacing fuse 3 on the output from the charge circuit to the battery. If it's tripping at 30A then sounds to me like the Alternator is doing its job, but system voltage isn't rising above 13.0 V. Could be a short, but I'd have thought you'd find that quickly either through blown fuses or smoke. Obvious start fully charge the battery with an exeternal charger then let it rest for a few hours and check the float voltage. Battery acts like an accumulator (or resevoir), if its voltage is low it can drag down system voltage and although a long shot it wouldn't be the first new battery that's been found defective Next thing after that would be to check battery voltage not being dragged down by parasitic load or small leakage. So the battery is low when you set out and will take time to rise in voltage. I'd also shoot a mail to Electrosport and ask them what the RR output voltage is set to as well, 13.0 volts sounds a tad low to me too, I'd think 13.5-14.0 volts is where it should be. It isn't catastrophic IMHO but is a bit low. EDIT Just to add I'm ASS-uming the rectifier ground/earth/chassis is good and of course battery ground, poor grounding usually results in higher system volts AFAIK, but it may be worth checking. Brighter minds will chip in soon (I hope)

Feel free to ignore, but looking at the pictures I haven't a clue what the PO intended Rather than swapping wires around on the relays would it not be better to get some clue about the scheme? I'd try to identify where the sources of the wires at the relay pins eminate from, identify them and sketch a diagram, to provide a starting point. Possibly a source from the battery at each relay, ground(s), an input from the switch and one to the beams for each relay. I'd also note any jumper wires on the relays and any wires which go from one relay to the other. If the source points can be located, mistakes can be rectified, modified or a new scheme made to work. I'm going to try and resist posting further as the last thing you need on this is another "cook to spoil the broth"

No problem & must admit it's unusual to see a relay with 2 normally open contacts and I've never came across it before The normal method to indicate a normally closed contact is on the other side of the switch with 30 being the common, standard nomenclature is 87a to denote a normally closed contact So I did a bit of googling I think the relay is a 332 018 150 Here is a diagram from a 332 019 150, it clearly has 2 normally open contacts https://alvadi.md/en/item/bosch-0-332-019-150

We must be looking at different pictures The two pictures I looked at clearly had 2x 87 terminals, the diagram on the relay also showed a common bar between them. Indicating normally open and commoned together I can see neither a normally closed terminal on the relay schematic (printed onto the side of the relay) nor 87a printed on nomenclature on the Bosch relay I'm starting to doubt my sanity I'll get ma coat

Looks like the experts have entered the room, so time for me to leave I noticed these relay(s) were a bit different to standard types having 2 "87" terminals i.e. 2 normally open switches (one source (30) powering 2 circuits 2x (87) when the relay is energised), just saying. Regarding the battery, in order to reduce the number of ring terminals at the battery, additional terminals and wiring could be relocated to the starter, making it a little neater

I could be totally wrong guys and it's a mod for "startus interuptus" as @audiomick suggests Just when I saw that relay sitting on the bucket it occurred to me that somebody had modified the wiring and I was having difficulty understanding the strange flip flop of Lo & Hi beam illumination in two distinct scenario, especially with the ignition off. Perhaps I'm looking at a diagram for another V11, the one I looked at has the power going through Headlight Relay, Starter Relay and Fuse 5, apart from the switch. So I thought it could be a canditate for modification with a relay and power taken directly from the battery, which would also explain the Lo beam energising with the ignition off. If it was wired direct from the battery and the relay was de-energised for Lo Beam then it MIGHT explain it. Depending on the scheme you'd possibly need ignition on to energise the relay so in that case Lo Beam would work but nothing else. However it's mere supposition and more akin to a guess than logic, it was just a suggestion that the wiring needs investigation. I've been wrong before

I'd been trying to figure out the rather odd behaviour with the Beams, one working and the other not with ignition on and off and being stumped (but it isn't that difficult to confuse me) IF I'm looking at the correct diagram then the power for the headlight beams are direct from the switch. The switch gets power from the Headlight Relay, this also feeds to the horn, so the horn should work when the beams do. Anyway another BIG IF but first pic, Is it upside down? Is that the headlamp shell? What is that relay next to the shell which has a number of spades attached to it? Could it be that a previous owner has installed a relay mod (makes the beams brighter and takes the load off the switch), by running a feed from the battery? If that relay is utilizing the normallly open and normally closed contacts to power the beams from a direct battery feed, then wierd shit may well occur. The connections to that relay and the fully insulated spade connectors aren't OEM, hence my rather frayed reasoning. I'd also check the connections on these fully insulated spades, anecdotally, I've had rather chequered results with them and they can come loose over time Otherwise just ignore me, as I could well have totally lost the plot

These look great Phil I'd love to have a set in the Australia, but I don't think I could justify the cost and the not inconsiderabel hassle of pulling the Australia to pieces to install them Is that the modded Service Shaft (as Guzzi call it) cut down similar to the MGS-01................Nice, going to be one helluva engine. Large slice of green cheese for Weegie

Although I haven't conversed with Joe in a long time, I used to be in quite frequent contact with him He's made several bits and pieces for me over the years and everything he sold me and a few other Guzzi folks I know has been really well made. A few racers have used his gear sets for which he's renowned his other big mod was an oil pump and gears too for the HiCam engines. The original oil pump design on the HiCam engines being badly flawed and led to several engines being reduced to scrap. I heard he was liasing with Phil on an update to the oil pump design for the HiCam, perhaps @Lucky Phil will chip in and tell us more Joe's a huge Guzzi fan and very knowledgable as well as being a really nice guy, PM me if you want his mail address, I just don't like putting it out on a public forum

Absolutely agree with your sentiments and I have them on all my Guzzis. If you do cover high mileages then perhaps its down to the individual's cost/benefit analysis. The OEM duplex chain set up lasts a very long time and very rarely gives any trouble. Guzzi owners are renowned for their frugality (euphanism for tight wads) so I ASSumed most wouldn't shell out for a gear set As to noise, I can here them sometimes but not always, my pipes are a bit louder than stock and I wear earplugs. The noise is nothing like you hear from a straight cut gearbox, like my Sporti.

Like Phil I have them in my Guzzis & think they're a worthwhile addition, no more timing issues, ignition or cam Installed easily and trouble free, great product, but yes probably OTT on a road bike I don't think you need any more recommendations than Pete syaing he'd jump on them if building a 2 v/v When you consider Pete's warnings in the past on timing gears, it's a clarion call as to the quality of Joe's gear sets. I'd jump on them if I was even considering using or building an engine they'd fit in the future

My nomiker on WG was Old Jock, so you'll see me on the thread I posted the link to If it needs replacing (& I mentioned it on the WG thread, but haven't had to replace the Reg/Rec yet) everybody seems to use Euromoto electric, personally I'd consider installing one of the Mosfet regulators from Shindengen. Although the 2 offerings from Shindengen are for 3 phase Alternators they can be used in a single phase configuration, check with Jack at Roadstercycle if you're thinking about it. http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm There is both a shunt regulator FH020AA(shorts the alternator output) and a series SH847 (opens the alternator output), with the series being a good bit more expensive. The original Ducati energia Reg/Rec is a series type (according to @Kiwi_Roy ) which is unusual. The reason for mentioning Shindengen is everybody in the Guzzi community purchases from Euromoto Electric (personally not a fan as they don't reveal any tech info and some of their kits void warranty if an AGM or LiFe battery is used). Everybody from Ducati (AFAIK) uses Shindengen as replacements. One more thing don't use any of Flea Bay offerings which are ridiculously cheap as they are not the real item and God Knows what's inside them I'll get off my soapbox and get ma coat

Not sure if I'm looking at the correct wiring diagram, but is fuse 3 good and the connections to it? I think that's the Reg/Rec feed to the battery 30A Is this the Ducati Energia Reg/Rec?................. @docc will know If it's the same Reg/Rec as used on the 1100 Sporti, there was quite a good thread on it on WG years back, but that in that was for a bike not charging Here's a link https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=84467.0 I'd check it's the same Reg/Rec first & I could be talking out my ass

More a point of academic interest, but I wondered why Stein Dinse were advertising this sensor when it was clearly the wrong part, or so I thought! I'll save you all the details but from a parts manual dive, it appears that early the early Daytona and Sport bikes used a float sensor as sold by Stein Dinse and around 96 changed to the thermistor design. Just for the geeks

If the rear brake was anything like the one on my 1098 I'm surprised he was able to notice The standing joke UK Ducati Forum was the rear pads were guaranteed for life

The fitting on the tank is an externally threaded 20mm diameter fine thread, the internal diameter of the fitting 10mm smooth bore. EDIT For Info I think the pitch is 1.0mm as best I can measure The sender slides into the tank through the smooth bore and a lip at the its base holds it captive on the base of the nut seen at the bottom. The top hex part of the nut is 20mm and screws onto the external threads of the tank fitting (a bit confusing but it's the best I can do to explain it) The fitting on the Steinse Dinse sender is 16mm so it's too large to install into the tank. Some sort of collar/adapter nut to extend and step the 16mm thread to a 20mm might work, but it would be "Heath Robinson" at best and probably look horrible. It would also lower the height of the sender in the tank, altering the volume of fuel left in the tank and reduce reserve capacity. I reckon it would be easier to purchase a thermistor and purchase parts to make a new thermistor, as Phil did in this thread, although that's not that easy either. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30780-fuel-level-sensor/page/2/

Well the sender arrived today, doesn't fit!!!! If you look at the photo in the first post you can see the base of the sender has an threaded nut and a collar nut, identical to the methodology for the fuel tap, the sender on the Magni (& I'm 99% sure the Daytona, RS and Sporti will be the same) is an M20 and it's externally threaded on the tank fitting with a smooth internal bore, whereas the fuel tap connection uses an M16 internally threaded fitting. I offered the sender up to the tank, the float section is fine but the nut is too large to install inside the fitting on the tank so I don't think there would even be a way to get it to fit unless the nut on the base was turned down to approx 10mm and stepped to around 16mm (I think). Thought it was too good to be true and I was correct, also informed SD that the item won't install on any of the morocycles they advertise it as fitting

Guess I'll never really know unless I open it, even then, unless it was glaringly obvious, I'd doubt I'd know the difference, so I'll proabably not bother My own experience is the 2 v/v bikes prime easier than the HiCam. I'll take Phil's and gstallons advice in future. Just primed the HiCam and all was normal there, a few short turns 3-4 seconds each time on the starter and the pressure built up as normal (same filter type and ordered at the same time from the same vendor) Of course it could be coincidence that the system primed on the Sporti after I changed the filter, I'm not wholly convinced. That said it's not the first time I've been wrong and then there is Occam's Razor too. It also may have been that particular filter offered a little too much resistance, a relatively small pressure drop upstream of the pump would probably be enough to stop the system priming Thank you to everybody who responded your thoughts on the topic were much appreciated John