Weegie

AFAIK all the fuel warning lamps work the same way on nearly all Guzzis of this era It's a thermistor, so the resistance lowers with increasing temperature, which is mounted in series with the lamp. When the thermistor is covered by fuel it's kept sufficiently cool by the surrounding fuel (its in a metal jacket). This keeps the resistance high enough to stop the lamp lighting When the level drops, the thermistor gradually gets uncovered, the resistance drops and current can pass through the lamp. That's why the lamp initially starts to glow, it will become brighter the more of the thermistor gets uncovered and it gets hotter resistance dropping further. However because the thermistor is passing current self heating also takes place. So (I see LowRyter has beat me to it) it will become brighter as level drops, but personally I'd never rely on it and I too use the odometer. They are also quite fragile and can be irreparibly damaged by connecting, I think it's the electric petcock on some bikes to it by mistake. The one on my Sporti is "tits up" and they are expensive to replace, if you can even find them

Discalimer I don't own a V11 so can only go by the wiring diagram When you hit the starter does it turn? That would rule out the side stand switch, the kill switch and the clutch switch. It appears from the wiring diagram that the clutch needs to be pulled in before the starter will operate, which is a little odd If everything fine there ensure voltage on fuses 1 & 2, both sides, these feed the ECU and Injection Relays. Without either of them working the bike is going nowhere. It might also be worthwhile checking fuse 8 as it operates the electric petcock Pull all the relays inspect then reinsert, just to make sure none are damaged or have become dislodged in the tip over. Then swap over the Injection and ECU relay with another 2 on the bike, or better still spares if you have them. I think the V11 is an In Tank pump, if all of that proves fruitless, I'd pull the pump and filter assembly from the tank, as something may have got dislodged in the fall and check it. With the pump assembly still removed but electrically connected I'd turn on the ignition, but just for a second to so to ascertain the pump turns. Don't run the pump for more than a second or so out the tank as it could damage it. Real V11 owners will be along soon with real understanding of the model, my own knowledge is somewhat limited (I own models somewhat akin but not identical), and confirm or deny my steps

No problem, I haven't checked the latest info but looking at an old Odyssey catalogue it states a fully charged battery will have a Open circuit voltage of 12.85 or higher at 25C so I don't think you've anything to be concerned about

Pretty sure 13V is fine normally the charging volts are in the region of 13.5 or higher, this is off the top of my head, but I would not be concerned about that in the least. Have you looked at the Odyssey charging thread yet...................it goes into more detail than you'd ever EVER want to know about all things Odyssey

A form has only normally open contacts C form has normally open and normally closed contacts. I think it may have been @docc who posted on this somewhere here. The A form can be used on 2 or 3 locations but some of the relays use the normally closed contacts. So you can replace some but not all with the A form. The downside to this is not all the relays become interchangeable Looking at Carl Allison's wiring diagram for a V11 ECU, Headlight, Sidestand and Injection relay A form is suitable The Starter Relay requires C form Given the Injection Relay and possibly the ECU and Headlight relays seem to be loaded highest I would purchase A form for the locations that are suitable and use whatever else I could get for the other location. At least that's what I'd do and consider it an upgrade, using something like the Panasonic relay for the other one Let somebody else confirm that though EDITED I INITIALLY GOT THIS A BIT WRONG NOW CORRECTED

The mirrors installed on the Sfidas are different spacing, so unsure if this applies to the Sport or not. I certainly had similar problems on an early Daytona with stock OEM mirrors The mirrors used on the Sfida and Australia are Vitaloni and the biggest problem with them drooping at speed is due to the ball joint nearest the fairing, there are two, one at the fairing and another where the shaft installs to the mirror head. I tried a damping grease but that didn't work, so after some googling and a look at the mirrors. The ball joint nearest the fairing consists of a plastic ball with a large hole in the middle, a cup on the mirror shaft with a threaded section in the center and another metal ball which has a hollow shaft up the center. The metal ball with the hollow shaft sits into the plastic ball, that in turn mates to the cup on the mirror shaft. The whole lot is held together by a phillips screw. The main problem seems to be that the hollow shaft bottoms on the inside of the cup of the mirror shaft it's there to allow the correct spacing and prevent overtightening of the screw, I think. Grinding the hollow shaft down to make it shorter allows the screw to be tightened a little more, increasing the clamping force. Roughing up the cup and ball and a split washer on the screw to prevent it loosening off also help I managed to get mine a bit tighter, but it's a horrible piece of design and would still probably loosen off over time. Although I don't really like the look of the barend I have installed on the 3 bikes, I'm just going to have to stick with it for now as at least I can see behind me and know it will stay put.

I don't own a V11, but looking at the wiring diagram and assuming all the usual stupid shit has been checked, it's not the sidestand or kill switch as the starter is locked out AFAIK. I'd start by swapping over the fuel pump relay and possibly the ECU relay with others to see if anything changes, I'd also listen to hear if I could hear the relays trying to pickup. Check for voltage on fuse 2 (feeds the injection relay) on both sides. Also check voltage at fuse 1 (feeds the ECU relay) If either of them are not picking or getting power then you got no spark and no fuel. Just a first guess, but others who know more will chime in I'm sure

I'm no help but these mirrors were fitted to quite few bikes of that era and it's pretty common knowledge they are pretty rubbish. I had them on a Sport and 2 HiCams and in all cases at least one of the mirrors on these bikes would move when the speed got above 40mph. I lost patience with them but could not find anything really suitable that would fit and was reduced to using a single bar end on the RHS (we drive on the left here), that works well enough for me. I wonder if a damping grease might help, something like Nyogel, I doubt it would entirely cure it. It's strange stuff, unlike a normal grease it's very sticky and feels like a glue but it doesn't set of course Never tried it on a mirror myself, it's beloved by flight sim fantatics for making their joysticks and throttles work smoothly with an almost hydraulic feel. I think it or something similar must be used to make these soft closing toilet seats work the way they do. It's not cheap either, you can get it in various grades, I'd go for the heaviest available Just an Off the Wall thought, as I've got some here I might acutally give it a go sometime out of curiosity.

Why not Chuck? As I understand it, Pete originally designed them for the V11s as they were lunching cranks at an alarming rate. The Centauro/Daytona/Sportis less so but only by nature of less aggresive gear ratios meaning they were less prone to the pickup getting uncovered under hard acceleration Pete recommended I install one on my Sporti and as the Centauro/Daytonas are similar I put one on that engine too. Over on the COG forum there were quite a few threads on "Sloppage Sheets" and a lot of people installed them I'd strongly recommend them for any broadsump engine. The plate also has the added benefit of allowing more oil to be stored in the sump which also helps

You can usually hear the fuel pump on the Sport i when you turn the key, the pump will run for 3-5 seconds then shut off, a buzzing sound. When the starter is engaged then the pump starts to run again. That doesn't entirely rule out the pump BUT if it's running at all, it's not the pump. As far as pods they are not as efficient as a standard airbox. I've installed pods on various sports and Daytonas (of differing types, sponge, paper etc:) and know of several other people who have as well (and they are not idiots), nobody has ever had an issue. I don't dispute you might lose a few ponies but stating that it's a likely cause of a misfire is IMHO over egging the pudding. If it was me as @footgoose suggests, I'd flush the lines and the tank first, take all the lines off one at a time, check the conditon etc: Then I'd set up the TPS, balance the injectors and do the valves/tappets. Next I'd ceck the phonic wheel pickup is gapped correctly, it's a senor on the crankcase near the top of the bike and if it's not gapped correctly can lead to strange things. I know nothing of Power Commanders but if the misfire is still there, I'd remove it (at least temporarily) to check, the bike should not need it. Other usual suspects are coils and injectors, I'd check the injectors aren't blocked (they can be removed and and triggered individually via Guzzi diag), the coils are usually pretty reliable. The bikes had a poor reputation on the standard map, there are various people out there who can provide better, the guy I know is Will Creedon, but I pretty sure there are others. When you say it misfires and stalls at stop signs, how long have you been running when this happens, any pattern, in fresh air or traffic etc:? Is the misfire always on the one side? They can run quite hot and stalling and missing are the usual symptoms, when that happens the bike feels like it's losing power as well. Just some suggestions might help but probably not

My opinion and it's just that, is that a relay kit is not necessary. It's 10W Lo 22W Hi, typically an H4 is 50 Lo 55W, so 20% draw Lo and 40% Hi. If the swtichgear is fragile, dodgy or hard to replace a relay kit is the ultimate fix to lower current through the switchgear but as it stands I'd have no second thoughts about just installing without the hassle of extra relays. A relay kit will up the voltage at the lamp but LEDs aren't as voltage sensitive as incandescent, a relay would lower the switchgear draw but that's about all.

Great explanation..............the oil pump is a positive displacement pump and any pump will produce will produce either pressure, flow or a mixture of both dependent on conditions downstream of the pump. I was stuck in the belief that the downstream restrictions were fixed but I suppose their not dependent on leak off from the components, which will rise with RPM, the leakge rate or restriction must alter at approximately the same rate as the pump flowrate rises holding pressure more or less at a fixed value. Thanks for that

Realize you're joking but that's not necessarily the case. Phil told me about a guy in Germany who actually blocked off his cooler because the bike ran too cold and Germany has, if anything higher summer temps than here in not so balmy Jockland. Other guys in the US run Centauros at ambients that would cook my engine and yet don't seem to have a problem. Another point is that above 3k RPM my 1100 Sporti and the HiCam don't appear to make significantly higher pressures. Why I don't know, logic tells you pressure should rise with RPM but after 3k or so it doesn't appear to increase significantly. It isn't always the PRV coming into play at high temps when the overall pressure is lower increasing the revs above 3k doesn't make any great difference to the oil pressure. I've yet to wring its neck to 8k, but between 3 and 5k I only see 2-3 psi difference.

20W/50 @paulnaz, that said remember when it was made most of the more exotic multigrades were not not available and the more modern engines have a 10/60 as the recommended grade. There are also quite a few HiCam owners running the 10/60 as well to boost pressure at higher temps. The HiCams are strange, some people have engines that run cold and others toasty hot and nobody AFAIK has any idea why (I certainly don't) John

Just a short note I'll update the thread later with some more detail hopefully. Perhaps this is known by many but it wasn't to me until I actually started to look at the data My HiCam runs hot, to up my pressure I've installed a Griso spring in the Relief valve as the original tends to partially open and rob the system of pressure. This is a big improvement but because the engine easily overheats in traffic and tends to run pretty hot in free air, around 105-110 (I still need to double check these figures), when in traffic it'll drop pressure at idle with temps around 120-130C and 5-10psi, which brings on the oil pressure warn and is a tad toasty anyway. The downside of the Griso spring is high starting pressure, 85psi idle and I need to wait until 60-65C where the pressure drops quite a bit, I think due to the cooler coming into play. This gives higher RPM, 3k and above, in the 80s. To counter this I thought go from my 15/50 oil to a 10/60, lower cold pressure and higher running pressure right? That isn't the case when you look at the data sheets, using a couple of Motul spec sheets for a 15/50 and a 10/60, the oil pressure at 40C with the 10/60 is higher by quite a bit at 160 CSt vs 115.7CSt for the 15/50. Using a far from accurate viscosity estimator based on Walther's equation (really only applicable for Newtonian fluids and mineral oils) I'm roughly estimating that the 10/60 will, more or less, give an equivalent pressure at 10-15C lower temp than the 15/50. So if my pressure X at temp Y running the 15/50 with the 10/60 the pressure X will now be at temp X-10. Pie in the sky right now as I know the equation isn't accurate, especially if it's extrapolated or even interpolated with large deviations from the actual measured data given by the spec sheet. So it will be interesting to try a 10/60 to see what the pressures actually are, if they are too high I can drop a shim out the PRV. From the running data and pressures I have already the cold pressures hopefully won't be a problem as looking at a 10C difference when the engine's cold, only moves the pressure around 2 psi or so, prior to the cooler chiming in. When it's hot though it makes a far larger difference as the pressure drops off a cliff using the 15/50 when temp gets between 110-120C. If the 10/60 would hold it to an equivalent engine temp of 100-110 then it might solve the problem. The effect the 10/60 will have on the engine cooling is a total unknown. One more thing is my currrent 15/50 at 40C is less viscous than a 10/50 due to the lower viscosity index. The point being don't assume because the Winter number is lower the oil will necessarily be thinner at cold temps that typically a bike is started at, I'm thinking 15C and above as a rule for us fair weather wimps, you really need to look at the viscosity numbers.

Nice looking unit I wonder if it's a center dip (universal) or it's dip pattern is off to the right meaning it would be unsuitable for those who drive on the left.

Another bloody Celt, this time from Scotland I can't help with stripping but just wanted to add my tuppence worth to support @Emeraldv11 suggestion to leave the cases bare alloy. I've did this with 2 rebuilds where I got the casings out and sent to a professional casing restoration shop, so your case is a but different. He used some form of ball bearings in a vibrating tank to peen the surface of the alloy, its been really good great finish and no problems with furring or the like. If you didn't/couldn't do that ACF50 sounds like a good substitute treatment. I don't like engine paint at all, at some point it's just going to lift again and look awful.

Let somebody else come back and confirm but if they are the same as the later HiCam ports which I'm sure they will be as it's a broadsump The engine ports are M16x1.5 I used something like this when going to an AN 8 hose, I used AN line as the fitttings and hose are so much easier to get hold of https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150840139125 I don't know what you've been suplied or what size the OEM line fittings are though as I don't know the V11 Dunno if that helps much

Is the problem a different size, so a reducer's required? Probably talking out my ass, but from what I've seen the fittings are usually metric, although AN wouldn't surprise. All of these should be easily available. I'm utterly handless yet made my own oil lines on the HiCam with bits just sourced from E-Bay I was just chipping in to add, if it was because the new fitting doesn't have the "O" rings to seal then I'd use Loctite 577. Used used it on my lines when they leaked and it worked a treat, I was recommended it by a buddy, who swore by it.

I use the 300V not because it states racing ergo the best (not necesarily) My reason for using is it's easily available and can withstand high temps, high revs. Motul spec sheet (that I've seen) states that other uses include street bikes and scooters. I only use the bikes in the summer, around 1k miles a year and changed anually. The spec sheet also states it can be mixed with other synthetics and mineral (although you'd then be diluting the properties) Running a full synthetic is the key IMHO, the brand is of secondary importance, but that's just an opinion with nothing to back it up. I think most motorcycle owners over think oil brands and Guzzi engines especially the 2V/V are pretty tough. Some HiCams must stand stupid amounts of abuse. I've very little evidence on the Daytona/Centauro engines, but when pressure and/or temp gauges are installed (temporarily or permamently), out the factory these engines can be running with stupidly low pressures and some, high temps into the bargain. They seem to do fine and the failures that do happen to these engines are connected with the badly designed pump.

That's Ok Pete, when you get the time, thanks for letting me know I've just been pestering the Bayjasus outta @Lucky Phil instead

Got them in my 3 bikes I also mail Joe on and off to talk all things Guzzi, he's a really good guy and Guzzi fanatic. If you've got questions mail him and ask there's no obligation and he'll discuss pros and cons, he's very knowledgable https://woodburymotomedia.com/moto-guzzi-timing-gears-by-joe-caruso/

My HiCam overheats horribly in traffic and I cannot understand why, on the open road it's fine although still on the hot side, around 110-115C I always use a full synth, at the moment I'm using Motul 300V 15W/50. I use the full synth as I'm told it can stand the high temps without breaking down. When in traffic it can get up to 130C, although by that time it's drastically losing oil pressure and I need to stop.

Looks awesome, I see its got MotoGP wings to hold the front end down Also looks like Keihin FCRs on it as well, sexiest carbs ever

Yup Real Gold Casings, nothing but the best for Mr Posh Spice