Weegie

Oh for goodness sake cut the guy some slack. The OP freely admits he's has some difficulty with electrics, which is far from uncommon. While I agree with the sentiments that solid wire isn't a good idea, he needs to have the bike running to get to work so probably grabbed what he had available and jury rigged a fix. If I was in that position and needed a "bodge" until I could address the issue properly I would have, most likely, done the same. The only difference being I'd have made a loop by bending the solid wire end around and possibly whacked it with a hammer to flatten it to get better continuity. I'd have also run it onto the engine or frame, relying on current passing through the headstock bearings can be hit and miss. I agree with @docc yellow is the city light positive, looking at the wiring diagram, I'm surprised that fuse 6 didn't blow when the lights were turned on as a positive supply is then being grounded. Do you have instrument lights on the speedo and tacho? Black is the ground as already confirmed. If your checking continuity the yellow would show resistance as it has to pass through the bulb (around 36 Ohms, if my shocking arithmetic is correct)

Hi Kevin I hope @innesa doesn't get mad at me replying and throwing this OFF TOPIC, but the issue is now sorted, so hope not. The fairing is probably not as enclosing as it looks, it's totally open at the front and then there are the front vents to left and right, one can be seen in that picture. The fairing also sits off the engine casings by quite a way. Towards the rear though the bellypan is very close to crossover, I put some silver heat reflective padding in there, so far so good. Getting back to the specific question that picture was taken when I first got the bike, the pipes now are ceramic coated on the inside and also have a black coating on the outer. I did that specifically to try to reduce radiated heat from the pipes impacting the fairing, of course it's a double edged blade as you prevent that heat escaping through the pipes from the heads, which is desirable. Guess its a case of dammed if you do, dammed if you don't. At the time I got the pipes coated I was not aware of just how hot my HiCam ran. So far nothing has melted nor any of the inner paint on the fairing, shown signs of discolouration due to heat. That's sort of surprised me as I was dubious to how the fairing would stand up to the heat. Just to increase the inherant unreliability I swapped the locations of the fuel filter and fuel pump, this was to install the oil cooler I currently have in place,. Long story but with the way the brackets are at the front its difficult to keep the pump at the front. This means the fuel pump is in between the cylinder Vee, so far its kept working, I guess the fuel moving through it must have stopped it cooking (so far) My original plans were to keep this bike completely stock, but sod it come the winter I've got some plans for it, nothing drastic, but some changes. For instance I dislike the standard Bembos, too much lever movement and not much feel. I'll probably move to the ISRs at the front installed on the other bikes, 2 finger braking and very progressive. John

I know nothing of Power Commanders, it always seemed to my mind they were a sticking plaster fix, perhaps not, but I've always been suspicious of them. Sounds to me like what @docc has already pointed out, the plate needs to completely close. Fouling on the body or throttle plate (sometimes called a butterfly) or the RH throttle stop screw not being backed off, may be causing the odd readings. Lightly opening the plate and allowing it to snap close a few times also helps, (don't go mad). The connecting rod needs to be disconnected too (pointed out as well). Personally I have the RH throttle stop screw completely backed out and only use the LH stop screw when adjusting the system. The TPS can (will?) move when tightening, snapping the throttle plate closed a few times will help confirm its set up right, you'll get slightly different readings every time you open and close the plate, but as long as it's in spec, I'm happy. I've seen reports that there can be a difference between the readings when the engine is running. Mine has always been Ok, I guess battery condition might have an affect, but that's just a guess Setting the TPS is the very first move This is just how I understand the system, I've been wrong in the past and excuse me if I'm teaching my granny.............. The TPS is an input to the fuel map, it will alter the fuel flow sent to both TBs. Once its set correctly then you adjust the throttle plates to ensure both bodies are flowing the same amount of air, because no matter what the airflow to each body is, they will still both be getting the same amount of fuel from the ECU. Close the Air bypass screws and adjust to get balance using the linkage connecting rod, I check at 3k RPM. When that's done adjust the idle via the throttle stop screw (I just use the left one) Finally adjust the airbypass screw to balance the idle airflow, you might then might have to readjust the idle, but its usually just a one shot. If I've done it right, then air bypass screw adjustment only has a small affect on the idle rpm. Personally I wouldn't be too bothered about the stuck air bypass screw. Preferable if you can get it move, but not worth damaging the throttle body, as you're achieving good balance at high RPM and idle. At higher RPM the airbypass screws do little, they are there to balance the airflow to each body at idle, once you have good balance at higher rpm by adjustment of the linkage rod length. They are too small to make a significant impact at higher RPM, besides if it's stuck it's probably completely closed and been screwed home by a shaved ape. Don't get overly caught up in trying to dial it all in until it's absolutely perfect, you'll go nuts. IMHO if the bike is idling fine and pulling well, I'm happy with it, during a service or in the Winter I might check it, but that's about all. I only mess with it when something is amiss, rough running, bad flat spot, persistant stalling etc:

Phil is spot on, you'll find some misleading info, not only in the manual, but on my Sporti and HiCam bikes the wiring is different The best way is to check it as suggested or at least confirm wiring colours. I "think" on the Sport it's the outside wires, on the HiCam it's one of the outsdie wires and the middle, adjacent to each other. Loving @po18guy s setup very nice. Being the cheap and lazy sod I am I use a paper clip up the back of the plug to read the voltage

You've got all the "gen" from minds better than mine. I'd drop the pan and check the filter and gaskets as suggested then put a gauge on it that @Scud has kindly offered a loan of. One of the reasons I love Guzzi ownership, I can't think of more generous crowd willing to help strangers out with insight or special tools etc: etc: When checking the pressure after the pan's been re-enstated, I'd remove the plugs (to reduce bearing load and help it spin faster) and pull the injection relay to stop the fuel pump and the coils being energised. Turn it over on the starter, in several 4 or 5 second bursts. It'll take a 10-15 seconds or so for the supply to prime then you should see the pressure shoot up on the gauge to somewhere between 50-60psi.

Ok do you have Will's email? I'll drop it to you on a PM You could then ask him directly for the full story in more depth if that's what you need

Will sells EEPROMs for the 1100 Sporti, the HiCam engined bikes (Daytonas & Cnetauros) and possibly more I don't know Chuck stated how Will came into possesion of the map early in the thread and it speaks volumes (to me anyway), I have one now installed in my HiCam and think it's an improvement in overall engine response and behaviour. I cannot give you specifics, but I think @Lucky Phil has actually looked at the map, so he might be able to provide some detail on the inner workings of what was changed in Will's map

That would work too @docc As far as charging I haven't got a V11 let alone a manual, but is the system the single phase Ducati setup like the Sporti? It should be easy enough to check the whole alternator by conducting an open circuit test disconnecting the yellow wires going from the generator to the RR. Start the bike then measure AC Voltage across the wires. Rev it to 3k or so and you should be seeing 40V AC or something in that order. Checking stator or rotor continuity is usually resisitance checks, personally I'd start with the Open Circuit check, then if that's not good move to the individual components. Often on a lot of bikes these wires feeding the RR are either sized a bit marginal or their associated connectors and the wires or the connectors are damaged, on some Ducatis it was a known issue. Looking at the Sport's manual, it shows the connections to the RR is via 2 jack/bannana plugs, I remember on the Sport these could be pulled apart pretty easily, way too easily for my liking. Can't remember what I did, but I did bodge a fix I vaguely recall shrink wrap, to make sure they didn't come apart. I know not very elegant (but way better than electrical tape), but it's worked so far. r.p.m. 1000 3000 6000A.C. volts 15 40 80 That's the AC volts from the Sporti manual, but don't know if the V11 has the same set up or not. Another interesting piece of mumbo jumbo imparted to me by @Kiwi_Roy was the RR on the Sport was a series type and not the more common shunt, a few guys though have installed shunt regulators and reported that they run fine. You're probably well aware, so my apologies in advance, but before doing system checks, like the voltage output from the RR, make sure the battery is fully charged. Low battery volts (or indeed a duff or dying battery) can pull the system volts down. The battery is like a reservoir or accumulator so it's voltage will have a pronounced effect on the system. If the battery is dodgy get or borrow another battery from elesewhere while doing the checks. The change in font is bacause I pulled stuff off the Sport manual

Looking quickly at the wiring diagram I'd think something is wrong between Hi Beam and the warn. Does the Lo Beam work Ok? The Hi Beam warn is simply tied to the Hi Beam feed but after that there's a 4 way AMP connector. If the Hi Beam warn is on all the time, accrding to the diagram then you've got a continuous feed to the Hi Beam, that should only happen with Lo Beam energized if the passing button is pressed on the switch Anyway I've made a couple of harnesses but never for a bike with an ECU, it's perfectly feasible, but would be a lot more involve a bit more work. I'd be tempted to split it into 3 separate looms, ECU & ancillaries, Charge Circuit & then everything else. Contacted Gregg Bender? He doesn't do a harness for the V11 but he might offer some advice or build a custom loom, probably won't be cheap though

Funny I had her out today, running well, she developed a misfire at one point but it cleared Oil pressure in clear air 58-62psi although I was seeing 70 on ocassions. Only problem with the engine is traffic and I hit the most horrific jams on the way home. Oil pressure light then flickers at idle around 8psi pressure. It's due to the temp skyrocketing, was 130C when I checked it once back at the house. Going to try installing a larger oil cooler in the Winter, but when on the open road it's a fantastic bike all round and that engine just loves to rev.

Just Guzzis in a dress

AFAIK all the fuel warning lamps work the same way on nearly all Guzzis of this era It's a thermistor, so the resistance lowers with increasing temperature, which is mounted in series with the lamp. When the thermistor is covered by fuel it's kept sufficiently cool by the surrounding fuel (its in a metal jacket). This keeps the resistance high enough to stop the lamp lighting When the level drops, the thermistor gradually gets uncovered, the resistance drops and current can pass through the lamp. That's why the lamp initially starts to glow, it will become brighter the more of the thermistor gets uncovered and it gets hotter resistance dropping further. However because the thermistor is passing current self heating also takes place. So (I see LowRyter has beat me to it) it will become brighter as level drops, but personally I'd never rely on it and I too use the odometer. They are also quite fragile and can be irreparibly damaged by connecting, I think it's the electric petcock on some bikes to it by mistake. The one on my Sporti is "tits up" and they are expensive to replace, if you can even find them

Discalimer I don't own a V11 so can only go by the wiring diagram When you hit the starter does it turn? That would rule out the side stand switch, the kill switch and the clutch switch. It appears from the wiring diagram that the clutch needs to be pulled in before the starter will operate, which is a little odd If everything fine there ensure voltage on fuses 1 & 2, both sides, these feed the ECU and Injection Relays. Without either of them working the bike is going nowhere. It might also be worthwhile checking fuse 8 as it operates the electric petcock Pull all the relays inspect then reinsert, just to make sure none are damaged or have become dislodged in the tip over. Then swap over the Injection and ECU relay with another 2 on the bike, or better still spares if you have them. I think the V11 is an In Tank pump, if all of that proves fruitless, I'd pull the pump and filter assembly from the tank, as something may have got dislodged in the fall and check it. With the pump assembly still removed but electrically connected I'd turn on the ignition, but just for a second to so to ascertain the pump turns. Don't run the pump for more than a second or so out the tank as it could damage it. Real V11 owners will be along soon with real understanding of the model, my own knowledge is somewhat limited (I own models somewhat akin but not identical), and confirm or deny my steps

No problem, I haven't checked the latest info but looking at an old Odyssey catalogue it states a fully charged battery will have a Open circuit voltage of 12.85 or higher at 25C so I don't think you've anything to be concerned about

Pretty sure 13V is fine normally the charging volts are in the region of 13.5 or higher, this is off the top of my head, but I would not be concerned about that in the least. Have you looked at the Odyssey charging thread yet...................it goes into more detail than you'd ever EVER want to know about all things Odyssey

A form has only normally open contacts C form has normally open and normally closed contacts. I think it may have been @docc who posted on this somewhere here. The A form can be used on 2 or 3 locations but some of the relays use the normally closed contacts. So you can replace some but not all with the A form. The downside to this is not all the relays become interchangeable Looking at Carl Allison's wiring diagram for a V11 ECU, Headlight, Sidestand and Injection relay A form is suitable The Starter Relay requires C form Given the Injection Relay and possibly the ECU and Headlight relays seem to be loaded highest I would purchase A form for the locations that are suitable and use whatever else I could get for the other location. At least that's what I'd do and consider it an upgrade, using something like the Panasonic relay for the other one Let somebody else confirm that though EDITED I INITIALLY GOT THIS A BIT WRONG NOW CORRECTED

The mirrors installed on the Sfidas are different spacing, so unsure if this applies to the Sport or not. I certainly had similar problems on an early Daytona with stock OEM mirrors The mirrors used on the Sfida and Australia are Vitaloni and the biggest problem with them drooping at speed is due to the ball joint nearest the fairing, there are two, one at the fairing and another where the shaft installs to the mirror head. I tried a damping grease but that didn't work, so after some googling and a look at the mirrors. The ball joint nearest the fairing consists of a plastic ball with a large hole in the middle, a cup on the mirror shaft with a threaded section in the center and another metal ball which has a hollow shaft up the center. The metal ball with the hollow shaft sits into the plastic ball, that in turn mates to the cup on the mirror shaft. The whole lot is held together by a phillips screw. The main problem seems to be that the hollow shaft bottoms on the inside of the cup of the mirror shaft it's there to allow the correct spacing and prevent overtightening of the screw, I think. Grinding the hollow shaft down to make it shorter allows the screw to be tightened a little more, increasing the clamping force. Roughing up the cup and ball and a split washer on the screw to prevent it loosening off also help I managed to get mine a bit tighter, but it's a horrible piece of design and would still probably loosen off over time. Although I don't really like the look of the barend I have installed on the 3 bikes, I'm just going to have to stick with it for now as at least I can see behind me and know it will stay put.

I don't own a V11, but looking at the wiring diagram and assuming all the usual stupid shit has been checked, it's not the sidestand or kill switch as the starter is locked out AFAIK. I'd start by swapping over the fuel pump relay and possibly the ECU relay with others to see if anything changes, I'd also listen to hear if I could hear the relays trying to pickup. Check for voltage on fuse 2 (feeds the injection relay) on both sides. Also check voltage at fuse 1 (feeds the ECU relay) If either of them are not picking or getting power then you got no spark and no fuel. Just a first guess, but others who know more will chime in I'm sure

I'm no help but these mirrors were fitted to quite few bikes of that era and it's pretty common knowledge they are pretty rubbish. I had them on a Sport and 2 HiCams and in all cases at least one of the mirrors on these bikes would move when the speed got above 40mph. I lost patience with them but could not find anything really suitable that would fit and was reduced to using a single bar end on the RHS (we drive on the left here), that works well enough for me. I wonder if a damping grease might help, something like Nyogel, I doubt it would entirely cure it. It's strange stuff, unlike a normal grease it's very sticky and feels like a glue but it doesn't set of course Never tried it on a mirror myself, it's beloved by flight sim fantatics for making their joysticks and throttles work smoothly with an almost hydraulic feel. I think it or something similar must be used to make these soft closing toilet seats work the way they do. It's not cheap either, you can get it in various grades, I'd go for the heaviest available Just an Off the Wall thought, as I've got some here I might acutally give it a go sometime out of curiosity.

Why not Chuck? As I understand it, Pete originally designed them for the V11s as they were lunching cranks at an alarming rate. The Centauro/Daytona/Sportis less so but only by nature of less aggresive gear ratios meaning they were less prone to the pickup getting uncovered under hard acceleration Pete recommended I install one on my Sporti and as the Centauro/Daytonas are similar I put one on that engine too. Over on the COG forum there were quite a few threads on "Sloppage Sheets" and a lot of people installed them I'd strongly recommend them for any broadsump engine. The plate also has the added benefit of allowing more oil to be stored in the sump which also helps

You can usually hear the fuel pump on the Sport i when you turn the key, the pump will run for 3-5 seconds then shut off, a buzzing sound. When the starter is engaged then the pump starts to run again. That doesn't entirely rule out the pump BUT if it's running at all, it's not the pump. As far as pods they are not as efficient as a standard airbox. I've installed pods on various sports and Daytonas (of differing types, sponge, paper etc:) and know of several other people who have as well (and they are not idiots), nobody has ever had an issue. I don't dispute you might lose a few ponies but stating that it's a likely cause of a misfire is IMHO over egging the pudding. If it was me as @footgoose suggests, I'd flush the lines and the tank first, take all the lines off one at a time, check the conditon etc: Then I'd set up the TPS, balance the injectors and do the valves/tappets. Next I'd ceck the phonic wheel pickup is gapped correctly, it's a senor on the crankcase near the top of the bike and if it's not gapped correctly can lead to strange things. I know nothing of Power Commanders but if the misfire is still there, I'd remove it (at least temporarily) to check, the bike should not need it. Other usual suspects are coils and injectors, I'd check the injectors aren't blocked (they can be removed and and triggered individually via Guzzi diag), the coils are usually pretty reliable. The bikes had a poor reputation on the standard map, there are various people out there who can provide better, the guy I know is Will Creedon, but I pretty sure there are others. When you say it misfires and stalls at stop signs, how long have you been running when this happens, any pattern, in fresh air or traffic etc:? Is the misfire always on the one side? They can run quite hot and stalling and missing are the usual symptoms, when that happens the bike feels like it's losing power as well. Just some suggestions might help but probably not

My opinion and it's just that, is that a relay kit is not necessary. It's 10W Lo 22W Hi, typically an H4 is 50 Lo 55W, so 20% draw Lo and 40% Hi. If the swtichgear is fragile, dodgy or hard to replace a relay kit is the ultimate fix to lower current through the switchgear but as it stands I'd have no second thoughts about just installing without the hassle of extra relays. A relay kit will up the voltage at the lamp but LEDs aren't as voltage sensitive as incandescent, a relay would lower the switchgear draw but that's about all.

Great explanation..............the oil pump is a positive displacement pump and any pump will produce will produce either pressure, flow or a mixture of both dependent on conditions downstream of the pump. I was stuck in the belief that the downstream restrictions were fixed but I suppose their not dependent on leak off from the components, which will rise with RPM, the leakge rate or restriction must alter at approximately the same rate as the pump flowrate rises holding pressure more or less at a fixed value. Thanks for that

Realize you're joking but that's not necessarily the case. Phil told me about a guy in Germany who actually blocked off his cooler because the bike ran too cold and Germany has, if anything higher summer temps than here in not so balmy Jockland. Other guys in the US run Centauros at ambients that would cook my engine and yet don't seem to have a problem. Another point is that above 3k RPM my 1100 Sporti and the HiCam don't appear to make significantly higher pressures. Why I don't know, logic tells you pressure should rise with RPM but after 3k or so it doesn't appear to increase significantly. It isn't always the PRV coming into play at high temps when the overall pressure is lower increasing the revs above 3k doesn't make any great difference to the oil pressure. I've yet to wring its neck to 8k, but between 3 and 5k I only see 2-3 psi difference.

20W/50 @paulnaz, that said remember when it was made most of the more exotic multigrades were not not available and the more modern engines have a 10/60 as the recommended grade. There are also quite a few HiCam owners running the 10/60 as well to boost pressure at higher temps. The HiCams are strange, some people have engines that run cold and others toasty hot and nobody AFAIK has any idea why (I certainly don't) John