Weegie

Just a short note I'll update the thread later with some more detail hopefully. Perhaps this is known by many but it wasn't to me until I actually started to look at the data My HiCam runs hot, to up my pressure I've installed a Griso spring in the Relief valve as the original tends to partially open and rob the system of pressure. This is a big improvement but because the engine easily overheats in traffic and tends to run pretty hot in free air, around 105-110 (I still need to double check these figures), when in traffic it'll drop pressure at idle with temps around 120-130C and 5-10psi, which brings on the oil pressure warn and is a tad toasty anyway. The downside of the Griso spring is high starting pressure, 85psi idle and I need to wait until 60-65C where the pressure drops quite a bit, I think due to the cooler coming into play. This gives higher RPM, 3k and above, in the 80s. To counter this I thought go from my 15/50 oil to a 10/60, lower cold pressure and higher running pressure right? That isn't the case when you look at the data sheets, using a couple of Motul spec sheets for a 15/50 and a 10/60, the oil pressure at 40C with the 10/60 is higher by quite a bit at 160 CSt vs 115.7CSt for the 15/50. Using a far from accurate viscosity estimator based on Walther's equation (really only applicable for Newtonian fluids and mineral oils) I'm roughly estimating that the 10/60 will, more or less, give an equivalent pressure at 10-15C lower temp than the 15/50. So if my pressure X at temp Y running the 15/50 with the 10/60 the pressure X will now be at temp X-10. Pie in the sky right now as I know the equation isn't accurate, especially if it's extrapolated or even interpolated with large deviations from the actual measured data given by the spec sheet. So it will be interesting to try a 10/60 to see what the pressures actually are, if they are too high I can drop a shim out the PRV. From the running data and pressures I have already the cold pressures hopefully won't be a problem as looking at a 10C difference when the engine's cold, only moves the pressure around 2 psi or so, prior to the cooler chiming in. When it's hot though it makes a far larger difference as the pressure drops off a cliff using the 15/50 when temp gets between 110-120C. If the 10/60 would hold it to an equivalent engine temp of 100-110 then it might solve the problem. The effect the 10/60 will have on the engine cooling is a total unknown. One more thing is my currrent 15/50 at 40C is less viscous than a 10/50 due to the lower viscosity index. The point being don't assume because the Winter number is lower the oil will necessarily be thinner at cold temps that typically a bike is started at, I'm thinking 15C and above as a rule for us fair weather wimps, you really need to look at the viscosity numbers.

Nice looking unit I wonder if it's a center dip (universal) or it's dip pattern is off to the right meaning it would be unsuitable for those who drive on the left.

Another bloody Celt, this time from Scotland I can't help with stripping but just wanted to add my tuppence worth to support @Emeraldv11 suggestion to leave the cases bare alloy. I've did this with 2 rebuilds where I got the casings out and sent to a professional casing restoration shop, so your case is a but different. He used some form of ball bearings in a vibrating tank to peen the surface of the alloy, its been really good great finish and no problems with furring or the like. If you didn't/couldn't do that ACF50 sounds like a good substitute treatment. I don't like engine paint at all, at some point it's just going to lift again and look awful.

Let somebody else come back and confirm but if they are the same as the later HiCam ports which I'm sure they will be as it's a broadsump The engine ports are M16x1.5 I used something like this when going to an AN 8 hose, I used AN line as the fitttings and hose are so much easier to get hold of https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150840139125 I don't know what you've been suplied or what size the OEM line fittings are though as I don't know the V11 Dunno if that helps much

Is the problem a different size, so a reducer's required? Probably talking out my ass, but from what I've seen the fittings are usually metric, although AN wouldn't surprise. All of these should be easily available. I'm utterly handless yet made my own oil lines on the HiCam with bits just sourced from E-Bay I was just chipping in to add, if it was because the new fitting doesn't have the "O" rings to seal then I'd use Loctite 577. Used used it on my lines when they leaked and it worked a treat, I was recommended it by a buddy, who swore by it.

I use the 300V not because it states racing ergo the best (not necesarily) My reason for using is it's easily available and can withstand high temps, high revs. Motul spec sheet (that I've seen) states that other uses include street bikes and scooters. I only use the bikes in the summer, around 1k miles a year and changed anually. The spec sheet also states it can be mixed with other synthetics and mineral (although you'd then be diluting the properties) Running a full synthetic is the key IMHO, the brand is of secondary importance, but that's just an opinion with nothing to back it up. I think most motorcycle owners over think oil brands and Guzzi engines especially the 2V/V are pretty tough. Some HiCams must stand stupid amounts of abuse. I've very little evidence on the Daytona/Centauro engines, but when pressure and/or temp gauges are installed (temporarily or permamently), out the factory these engines can be running with stupidly low pressures and some, high temps into the bargain. They seem to do fine and the failures that do happen to these engines are connected with the badly designed pump.

That's Ok Pete, when you get the time, thanks for letting me know I've just been pestering the Bayjasus outta @Lucky Phil instead

Got them in my 3 bikes I also mail Joe on and off to talk all things Guzzi, he's a really good guy and Guzzi fanatic. If you've got questions mail him and ask there's no obligation and he'll discuss pros and cons, he's very knowledgable https://woodburymotomedia.com/moto-guzzi-timing-gears-by-joe-caruso/

My HiCam overheats horribly in traffic and I cannot understand why, on the open road it's fine although still on the hot side, around 110-115C I always use a full synth, at the moment I'm using Motul 300V 15W/50. I use the full synth as I'm told it can stand the high temps without breaking down. When in traffic it can get up to 130C, although by that time it's drastically losing oil pressure and I need to stop.

Looks awesome, I see its got MotoGP wings to hold the front end down Also looks like Keihin FCRs on it as well, sexiest carbs ever

Yup Real Gold Casings, nothing but the best for Mr Posh Spice

Agreed @docc the bellypan doesn't have a great deal of clearance at the base either making a Vee Sump impossible. Add to that the reduced clearance perhaps restricting the ability of the finning to reject heat and the heads also being partially enclosed, won't help either The other Australia I mentioned is a series I bike and I wonder if it has a more generous belly pan then the series II Anyway apart from a larger oil cooler perhaps in the Winter I don't think there's much more I can do or check. Looking on the bright side though the bike is fine once on the open road, but city traffic is to be avoided at all costs. It is nice to look at though

Hi Chuck Phil thinks the fairing could be at least partly to blame and I do need to get the bike out for a short run without the bellypan to see if it makes a difference As stated earlier, there is another Australia owner I know and his bike runs cool as well. That bike though has a deep sump (from the pictures though it doesn't look anything like as deep as Vee sump) but the bike is C kitted. Anyway the fairing is off and I'll check the tappets today and ensure the CO screw is turned up rich inside the ECU box. Plugs were dry after the run and looked pretty reasonable to me, generally grey, far from white as you'd see on bike running lean. Guess I won't get to the bottom of it unless I'm prepared to pull the whole engine to pieces and maybe not even then

So finally our esteemed leader lifted our local down last Friday and the weather aligned, so on Monday I could go for a ride after not leaving the city in over 9 months, probably closer to year. The first thing, science experiment (101), was to determine how the HiCam would behave on the open road in clean air. Since putting in the Griso spring I also added a bit over a litre of oil to bring the level up closer to the underside of the Roper Plate, prior to this I'd been running at around 1/2 on the dipstick. Trawling through 40 pages of posts on the COG forum looking at oil threads specifically. I discovered the sumps should be filled up to the underside of the Roper Plate, around 10mm higher than the high point on the dipstick (COG quoted figures of 17mm above the high mark on the stick approx equal to the underside of the plate). Yet another lesson learned (thanks @Lucky Phil for posting about this earlier which initially drew my attenion to it). TBH I'm still a bit sceptical about the broadsump design, my Sporti has the same setup and it tends to run on the hot side as well (not in the same league as the HiCam though). Anyway, I found with the addtional oil it's a bit slower to heat in traffic, but still too fast for comfort. Completed over 150miles, ambients in the low 20C. Once running in clear air my pressure varied, typically around 55psi 4k rpm in the 40-50mph region and 60-65psi when running 60mph and above again around 4k rpm. After running in clear air if I did get held up the pressure would drop into the mid 50s or thereabouts, but once back into clear air recover pretty quickly to 55-60 and if extended running I'd get back up close to 65psi. I'm relieved that on the open road the bike runs well and the pressures are high enough for it not to be a concern. Had a lot of fun getting it out into the bargain what a hoot that bike is to ride. Idling after a clear air run pressure around 15psi at 1200 rpm. I never got the chance to get data on the temps, but I'd hazard a guess (from experience with pressure and temps) in clear air oil temp is somewhere between 105-115C, high but not excessive enough to cause damage to the engine. Once back into the city in a 30mph zone for 7 miles (or a bit more) with quite a few traffic lights, but no horrendous snarl ups, the bike was back to its old evil ways and about 2 miles from home was stalling at idle, the heat coming from the engine was obvious. Literally yards from the house the low pressure light came on at idle and revving a little showed the system was struggling to maintain pressure around 20psi as I recall at a little over 2k rpm. Checking the sump temp when I got it in showed 130 C on the gauge. Going to check tappet clearances and open them up to 0.15 and 0.20 as recommended by Karsten per Lucky Phil's post (page #1) and recheck oil level. I still can't see oil at the base of the Roper Plate, pretty sure it can't be far off though. I just cannot understand why it runs so hot, I'd heard that these engines have a reputation for it, but searching the COG and on here, all the evidence points to the opposite being true. Over the Winter I'll be looking at a larger cooler and changing the 15/50 in her at present to a 10/60. The 10/60 will probably do very little but if it lowers the starting pressure and raises the running pressures even a little its all going in the right direction. Hopefully I'll get it out again this summer to confirm the data

Speaking personally I've done a lot of stupid of shit in my time, I've just been lucky, you weren't, besides I don't know the full circumstances of your mishap. I'm just sorry that its happened to you and glad you're Ok. From that picture it looks like the lever(s), indicator(s), mirror(s) and possibly minor damage to the Magni fairing (I'm not sure) are the only casualties. Insurance companies and claim assesors can be a nightmare to deal with. Less known older bikes can easily get written off as their value is lower and parts scarcer, add in the assesors can't be bothered to do the research, declaring a "Write Off" is the easy way out. The assesors will probably add up the Guzzi parts prices look at the book price of a cooking V11 and their time to transport and sort it, then do the arithmetic. As docc states, point out recent market prices, I'll wager book price doesn't reflect anything like current market value and the bike looks imaculate which should also figure in the valuation If insurance insists on a "Write Off" buy it back as a last resort. As others have said first try to get it reassesed and repaired first so as your title doesn't get affected. I don't know how it works in the US but if you hit a wall with the insurers, I'd get a lawyer involved, that usually "focuses" them somewhat, here in the UK anyway. Nice bike, MotoSpezial Vee Sump (with site glass) and Magni fairing make it something well worth saving IMHO and it seems crazy that such superficial damage would result in a "Write Off" Guessing you junked the cooler, and routed the breather return through the sump plug, I've thought now and again about doing the same to a HiCam engine

My understanding is Yes none were imported to the US AFAIK the Dr John was an attempt to increase sales of the "cooking" Daytona. Not long after the Daytona was launched Guzzi announced tuning kits for the engine, A B & C The Dr John was a black B kitted Daytona, I don't know of any other changes They were probably not imported to the US due to emissions and noise requirements. The Daytonas for the US and Switzerland had slightly different specs I think it was mainly the cams, although there were probably ECU changes as well. Again this is just my understanding and not fact, but when the RS came out, a full C kitted Daytona the US didn't get the full blooded C kit either. Somebody with more knowledge might come along and confirm or correct that

No Pete I haven't seen anything which reminds me I need to talk to the painter about these Magni decals as he never got back to me I'll drop you a PM Both Charlotte and me have had both jabs, neither of us had any after effects whatsoever John

Well somebody looks like they've been copying Ahem!! taking inspiration from others. To be fair it's not an uncommon design, is it just me or does Magni's Sfida Sporti (and quite a few other of the Sfida designs) not bear a resemblence to the V11 tail piece?

On my Sfida (a Magni using sporti running gear including the engine & gbx) which is a 99 I believe It's on the Crankcase LHS (as you sit on the bike) front, low down just above all the finning near the sump, where the timing case bolts on. Being a 99 and you're asking about a 97, this may have changed but my numbers are in a dot matrix format

Just to add the Dr John shown in the picture I put up is the same bike that dvdmcm owned for a while

@PeterS You did see this thread? @Tony21 may be able to help https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22640-the-daytona-dr-john-search-for-missing-bikes/&tab=comments#comment-260657

I'm not 100% on this, but I believe these foam pods were the OEM fitment.

Did that work?

Like this? They were 'B' kitted were they not? I liked the black colour scheme. A friend had one, sold it and years later bought it back. He then sold it within a couple of weeks when he was made an offer too good to refuse. AFAIK the bike went to somebody in the London area who already had one and wanted another

Thanks for the link @Mikko That's quite a build, way beyond my skill level or cash Really interesting to see what you're doing and how it progresses The Marchal Lamp on the first page, they are just so cool always been a favourate of mine. Rest of the work looks stunning, be interesting to see how it all progresses