Weegie

Hi Phil Hummmm, that's interesting, depending on where in Germany he is, he'll probably encounter higher ambients in the Summer than we get in Scotland. So you're telling me that Karsten actually junked the cooler and made a loop pipe. Although not to the same degree I do know of another Australia owner, whose bike has the standard Daytona engine but upraded to Stage C. His bike seems to run low oil temperatures too, it has a 10 row Mocal cooler installed and even with a Vee piece across the front of the fairng (from a Ducati to stop muck getting thrown into the engine) his temps are on the low side. Running a 23-25C ambient, he told me 20 minutes to achieve 80C, normal running 90C and extended traffic light stops up to 105C, These temperatures are with the Vee piece in place. The vee piece has raised his oil temps by 5-10C. I wonder if mapping has anything to do with this. Joe Caruso also sent me a screenshot he'd taken from the Daytona Facebook page which originated from Jens Hofmann The Daytona Rs Vam is the Kit cam from Daytona 1000 like you know. This cam has a very long ramp. The result is that the head gets very hot because the valves are 60 ° not presses is the valveseat and cant give their heat away. There seems to more to this as some seem to report good to low temps and others on the high side, but as I've no clue why all I can do is see if the new cooler improves anything The cooler arrived this morning and looks a bit smaller than the standard which doesn't fill me with confidence, but I'll press on anyway as presently I can't see another path to pursue John

This is a long sad saga on how one person can be so stupid and how you should always listen to Chuck. I purchased a low mileage Australia 98 from Japan a few years back, HiCam engine and running gear identical to a Daytona RS As Winter was coming on apart from idling the bike to check as much as I could that all was in order the bike did no running. I purchased a Caruso pump and gear set to remove the "grenade with the pin pulled" oil pump and to a lesser degree the suspect OEM Aluminuim gears for the service shaft and oil pump drive, the OEM crank gear is steel. I also installed an oil pressure gauge and a dipstick temperature gauge. There were other things done along the way but they're not relevant. Come the next summer I took it out for a ride, the first thing I noticed was the low oil pressure on cold oil at idle, around 50-52 psi. The traffic getting out of town was particularly bad, with road works, diversions, queues and snarled up traffic. Just as I got by the worst of this I seen the oil pressure light come in. Went into panic mode looked at the pressure gauge somewhere between 5-10psi. Pulled off into a convenient car park adjacent to me, killed the engine and freewheeled to a stop. Checking the temperature it was in excess of 120C. Waited for well over an hour perhaps longer until the temperature dropped to around 60C and rode home via a backroad a cab driver told me about. On the ride home I was still dropping oil pressure and rising temperature. As I recall it was about 25psi when I got home, I cannot remember the temperature. Although a backroad with less traffic I was still limited to 30mph, so at no point did I really get the chance to get up speed and some real airflow around the engine. With the low pressure at idle I was convinced that the overheating and low pressure were linked and as the pressure was low from the outset thought I'd start there. The 2V bikes I'm used to will run cold idle circa 60-65+ psi. Cutting to the chase after pulling the bike apart several times, installing several pressure gauges, the OEM pump plus another Caruso pump, running multiple experiments swapping over all sorts of parts between my Sport engine and HiCam, dimensioning several bearings and journals (but not all) and about to strip it again. Lucky Phil stepped in and started to make suggestions on checks. These came to nothing BUT give me a far greater understanding of the engine architecture and I'm very grateful to him. Without his intervention I'd probably have had the engine apart (or in a skip). I also got a friend with another HiCam engined bike to install a gauge onto his and he saw 50psi cold idle. This took another interesting turn when Phil fired his blueprinted HiCam, as he had installed a stronger relief valve spring and obtained 105psi. This told me that the pump has more than enough capacity to support engine oil requirements when escaping via the normal engine bleeds & bearings BUT with the relief closed. When Phil then installed the standard spring, his pressure dropped to 50psi cold idle, so the culprit had to be the relief partially lifting early, that Chuck had told me about so long ago. I'm hazarding an "informed" guess here, but think with the large oil feed to the heads, not present on the 2V bikes to anything like the same degree, it doesn't take much lift from the relief for the system pressure to start bleeding down. Joe Caruso has been brilliant and invaluable during all this, providing me with a lot of pump data and insight. One of the facts made me go "WIDE EYED" was the HiCam oil flow from the pump, was the highest of all the bikes of this vintage. The pump gears are longer (all the pump gear diameters are the same) and spinning faster than the V11 or the MGS-01. So that's where I am now, I'm going to install a Setrab 13 row cooler, which involves shifting some components around & will hopefully improve the heat rejection avialable from the cooler. At the moment there is 15/50 full synth in the bike and if I still encounter rising temps the next move will be to step up to a 10/60 to see if the higher viscosity at elevated temperature will sustain the oil pressure. This was also Lucky Phil's suggestion and Paul Minnaert's on a Facebook Daytona page. I've still a ways to go though to complete the cooler install & here we're still under lockdown, so sometime, hopefully sooner rather than later, I'll be able to take it out and see what happens Just thought it might bring a little insight to those of you lucky enough to posess one of these wonderful machines. I'll update this as and when but it will be slow John

Hi Pete very generous of you as always and thank you so much, I may take you up on it later.......................I just took a look on the Bay of Fleas and have you seen what people are asking for some of these parts? You're sitting on a gold mine!!! Right now I need to get the rest of the crap shoehorned into the upper front of the bike to see exactly what's going to fit. Two of the reasons for considering the Setrab/Mocal route apart from the fact I know they will probably fit are 1) I know another Australia owner who runs a 10 row Mocal with dash 8 piping and reports oil temps on the cool side if anything. That's an earlier bike but has been upgraded to a stage C tune. So it's not a broad sump and has a modified Finkentey Klaumann sump and spacer, for the take off to fit a cooler. It can't be a deep sump though as there's no room on the Australia to install one because of the fairing. I have no idea if it makes any difference or not 2)The Setrab/Mocals have a lot of published data on their cooler performance and the upshot is the bigger the better, within reason. Greater heat rejection and lower pressure loss, if you've got a stat to control it. I don't think Guzzi's coolers have as many rows Vs their physical size and I'm desperately trying to maximize heat rejection through the cooler. I need to start a seperate thread on this and the oil pressure behaviour to continually stop Lucky Phil's thread going Off Topic.

Thanks for the update Phil You make me look an utter dullard (not that hard mind). Amazing work and breadth of knowledge you're posting up here. Why are you running a 15M out of interest could you not get your hands on a 16M? Are you planning to do anything regarding the relief valve spring in the future or just let sleeping dogs lie? Tell me about access to the oil pressure take off, it's a compete Bee-atch After doing the cam timing check on mine and trying to install a larger oil cooler where the OEM lived on the HiCam I had to admit defeat. A Setrab or Mocal could be installed but the piping was impossible. I'm now in interation #2 and have relocated the external fuel pump and when the pieces arrive fit the filter (tubing and 2 large P clips). That should free up space between the Alternator cover and front subframe brace. In there I can squeeze a 13 Row Setrab and have sufficient room twixt cooler and sump ports to actually pipe it. I'll post up a separate thread when its done. Pretty simple stuff but it was driving me nuts. I'll also let you know when the Will Creedon chip arrives Please keep this updated it's a gold mine for anybody brave/masochistic enough to venture into the altered reality that is the world of HiCams (Although I still think they are the sexiest lumps Guzzi ever made). John

If you do half the job you did on the V700 Dave it'll easily be like the lower picture. Lucky bike finding such a good home. Calis are amazing machines, I thought they would be Harley like in the their handling until I was out on a group ride years back. I was on a Daytona and the guy in front on a Cali, I had difficulty keeping up with it, could not believe how much they can be thrown around and handle so well. Great bikes, I love these earlier versions

Stunning Dave Wish I was half as talented to do something like that

Thanks Phil All these contributions are very much appreciated. I reckon a 10/60 it is for the HiCam and I'll just continue with my 15/50 in the 2V bikes for now. In Scotland max ambients tend to be mid 20s and when I'm out in the Summer lows probably mid teens. John

I hope on here that oil threads are a bit calmer than on WG where everybody goes NUTS with illl informed opinions I had overheating on a HiCam which resulted in low oil pressure and I'm guessing, no more than that, that a combination of these engines running very hot in traffic and possibly the relief valve behaviour, it starts to leak around 50psi and yes most of them seem to do that, is contributing to the dropping pressure. At the time bike overheated, I was running a Motul 15/50 full synthetic and just wondered opinions regarding upping viscosity to a 20/50 or even 20/60 weight oil. That won't stop the overheating but might help allleviate the plummeting oil pressure. AFAIK the recommended weight is 20/50. Do some of the later bikes not run a 10/60? Really I'd rather run a lighter rather than a heavier viscosity but when my oil sump temp reached 120C the oil pressure had dropped to under 10psi although that was a circa 2k RPM At the moment it's just a thought, I'll probably try a 20/50 first. Anectodally I've also seen some people posting that changing oil vendors can even have a marked difference

Rolls Royce Piston Aero Engines - a designer remembers by AA Rubbra, liking your taste in reading Phil..........a lot. A great read, as are many in that series if you love engines

Closing this out with the requested info as the Ducati coils arrived today, all four of the coils tested are Marelli BAE 850 AK OEM (coils that are in the bike) Primary 0.60, 0.63 Ohm Secondary 3.172, 3.188 k Ohm Ducati Coils Primary 0.60, 0.59 Ohms Secondary 3.195, 3.168 k Ohm

@gstallons I'm retired now, used to work with Gas Turbines, first in maintenance then latterly doing performance and tuning. Predominently industrial units but some aero derivatives and some steam turbines as well. I was a mechanical engineer but always had an interest in electrical and instrumentation, which was handy for setting up to measure performance runs. I was nothing special and certainly don't posess much talent, to this day I shudder when I think of some of the stupid s**t I did over the years. As far as the job travelled all over doing it, it was a mixture of hands on and engineering evaluation, really enjoyed it and some fantastic times. Guys on here like @Lucky Phil, @Kiwi_Roy , the inimitable @pete roper and no doubt many more, are way more talented in there respective fields than I could ever be. The wiring on the bike was my first ever attempt at a rewire, it's Ok but not in the same league as others, especially some of the guys who worked on aircraft. Second attempt on a mate's V7 racer, that he put back to road use, was a little better. Heartly agree with @knumbnutz, using an M-Unit makes the job a lot easier, if costly. Wiring isn't hard, especially on bike's of that vintage. Break down the circuits, make a diagram of how you're going to do it. Use the diagram to evaluate current/load and size the wire to suit. Once you've did all that you get hands on and route the cables, bundling them into groups. Lastly make the terminations. For detail, the box between the M-Unit and the fuse box housed a resistor (now relocated and replaced with a metal clad unit) in place of the generator warning light. The big silver box houses the electronics for the Sasche electronic igntion and a terminal strip where I had to common up connections. I'd have did it a bit different now but it all works.............so far. Here's short video of an early start after the refurb if anybody's remotely interested, its changed a little since then, but not so much. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-G5zCu5UkEA&feature=youtu.be John

Pete when he's referring to Differential he might mean Bevel box?

Some cracking stuff here, glorious I posted these up on the Pete's "Look what I found lying about looking sorry for itself" thread, but thought I'd put them up here too. It's not exactly a Tonti but sort of resembles one in spirit and is contemporary. First pic as it was after the refurb the solid discs warped and the pods were too long Second pic before I threw it and me into a wall, which rearranged the fairing somewhat Third is how it currently looks (never bothered replacing the fairing decals, which I should) I'm not a fan of exhaust wrap but I orignally got the pipes Cermakromed, which looked shit, then I had a rethink when I added the cast wheels, so the system went to black. Problem was because of the Cermakrome, the black never keyed properly and started to flake on the headers. By this point I was sick of the whole thing and just thought "sod it" I'll wrap them and its been that way ever since.

I apologise in advance for pointing this out and I don't want to be picky, BUT.........................a screwdriver can do a lot of damage if you're not careful, I see where you're coming from and agree. However I'd use either a small wooden skewer or a chopstick, something of that ilk thats less likely to cause mayhem if it gets jammed in the cylinder. Realise that if you know what your doing and you've done it a few times it's straightforward, but if you haven't it's better to err on the safe side. God knows I've done some real stupid shit in my time.

Checked both cams yesterday, this is for a non US RS, the US RS and Centauro have different cams, see Lucky Phil's build thread page 7. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20664-v11-daytona-project/page/7/ Had to do a bit of mental arithmetic and thinking (not my strongest suit). The left side was a breeze but as I just kept the degree wheel zeroed on the LHS TDC, had to turn the crank 270 degrees (clockwise facing the front) direction of engine rotation, then set up the gauge onto the lifter and zero it for the RHS. After that I turned through 90+(90-63.5)=116.5 degrees to arrive at 63.5 degrees before BDC on the RHS. A lot of degree wheels including this one have their scales laid out as before and after TDC/BDC. So instead of looking for 63.5 after the 90 on the wheel I needed to obtain 26.5 after the 90 as the wheel is numbered from BDC counting towards the 90 degrees It's hardly rocket science, but it's easy to get confused especially if the scales aren't numbered 0-360, but 0-90 (after TDC), 90-0 (before BDC), 0-90 (after BDC), 90-0 (before TDC) as you rotate the wheel. I turned the nut on the service shaft to rotate the crank and it turns in the opposite direction. Some notes on my experience doing this. As long as you have a degree wheel, a mag base and a dial gauge it's not difficult. I used an adapter to screw the dial gauge into the spark plug hole, alternatively the dial gauge could be used without spark plug adapters if you have extension shafts for the gauge and then set it up on a base above the plug hole, or simply a positve stop tool. I bought a solid wheel which could also be moved using wing nuts. Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200MM-ADJUSTABLE-3MM-ALUMINIUM-CNC-ENGRAVED-ENGINE-TIMING-DISC/233567512922?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The thicker wheel makes it a lot easier IMHO, to mount and obtain accurate readings and being able to rotate it really helped without having to mess with the mounting nut. I don't like undoing the mounting nut or bending the pointer as I can never get it accurate. I drilled the center of the wheel out to 16mm to mount onto the crank. When the belts are tensioned and the valves are being operated, the engine gets pretty hard to turn against the springs. It's a lot easier if the rockers are removed first so as you don't have to turn against the springs, besides you need to remove the rockers to check the cam follower lift. It also negates the danger of the piston flying up under valve spring pressure and whacking the positive stop if you're using that method to find TDC I found using the dial gauge easier than using a positive stop, but either way is fine. Using the gauge find TDC, then rotate the engine clockwise and anticlockwise 3mm either way and check the readings. When rotating anticlockwise go past the 3mm then bring the crank back to 3mm clockwise. That equated to 20 degrees crank rotation in each direction, when I did it the figures were spot on. If not TDC needs to be adjusted on the wheel. Lots of videos on YouTube showing how to do this. If you use a positive stop then you just bring the piston up GENTLY until it contacts the stop in either direction then do the arithmetic to find TDC again YouTube has lots of videos After that the base is set so the dial gauge reads the cam follower. Set the engine at TDC LHS and zero the gauge on the LHS exhaust follower. Rotate the engine to 63.5 before BDC then check the dial gauge to ascertain the lift. I did this with the verniers (gears) in place, as I didn't want to mess with them unless I really had to. As both were spot on I didn't need to. To check the other side I then just did the arithmetic I've already mentioned and rotated the crank to 270 degrees, zeroed the dial gauge on the RHS lifter then rotated a further 116.5 degrees and checked. I'm no mechanic but you really don't need to be, just go slow and think about each step.

Chips now winging there way to Jockland Thanks all very much appreciated

Will is offering me the chips for $114USD/chip Phil He told me he's able to supply a chip for any 16M ECU and all he needs to know is which cam is installed A or C Check your PMs

Thanks Phil & Chuck Chuck got me details to contact Will & I did that, he's still selling the chips. I can get a new chip from him cheaper than the secondhand gumtree add, although it is very much appreciated Phil Going to order up a couple, one for the Australia and another for a (hopefully) up and coming deal to acquire another HiCam bike, as the HiCams keep me so entertained

Tried to download the fie @Admin Jaap I'm pretty new here so it's probably me, but it stated file unavailable Either way thank you for going to the trouble, wish I'd had them when I put new gauges onto the 1100, the clocks would have been awesome with those logos

It's a Formotion that I got ages ago Chuck https://www.formotionproducts.com/shop/reference-series-rsl-model-02

I'll contact him, I read somewhere but can't remember the source saying something about the chip being different, perhaps just a label or perhaps something else I'll see if he comes back, remember that the non US, RS bikes had a different cam, but don't know if that would have a big impact on the mapping or not

That's a Sfida 1000 4V, HiCam engine (as you well know) not sure but is that a flyscreen on the front I can't make it out? Anyway the fairing has been removed, the wheels painted/powder coated red and different cans. I'm with you on the cans, either cylindrical or even better Magni's V11 exhausts would have been so much nicer. Rare beasts!! The battery has been relocated under the tank. I think I asked JJ about it when a picture was posted on WG and he knew the owner. I couldn't understand how on earth he kept the standard airbox and relocated the battery, it's a very neat install using a LiFe battery. Did something similar with my Sfida 1100, same frame & bodywork, but Sporti engined. Of course I was nowhere as talented as that guy, I used the pods that were on mine when I got it, but stuck a much bigger LiFe under the tank as well.

Oh Gawd this is turning into a Magni thread Hi Tim How are you? The clutch lever, brake master, discs calipers and discs are all ISR items. Small Swedish company the owner Acki is simply brilliant to deal with. Its not cheap kit and no self respecting Guzzi owner would ever consider buying his offerings. http://www.isrbrakes.se/ Specifically on the calipers they are 6 pots with Brembo centers so they just bolted straight onto the exisitng mounts until I went to the larger discs http://www.isrbrakes.se/products/calipers/22-032.html I originally had Magni discs on it but they weren't floaters and they warped in a couple of years, despite little use. Looked at a few options including Speiglers, but got Acki to make custom mounts. I had reservations but was very pleased with the result and they were marginally cheaper than the Speiglers. When doing this the cost of going up to 320 (I think) discs were marginal in comparison to the price of the discs so I did that too, then got my local machine shop to make the mounts for the calipers to move them back. The M-Unit, used as part of the rewire, has the option for all pushbutton swtichgear so I added the pushbutton clamps for the lever mounts. I know a lot of people hate the pushbutton gear but it works well enough for me

@Admin Jaap Dunno if this helps your understanding of what's on the bike, just for info right now, I'm hoping my painter pulls through with the goods for Pete This pic was taken before I decided to throw the thing (& me) into a brick wall which "redesigned" the fairing somewhat & I never bothered putting the logo back onto the fairing Fairing is the same logo without the motorcycle, tanks as posted, sidepanel enlarged M with motorcycle, the rear I've no clue

Guess if you can and you need to do a rewire it's nice way to combine relay functions and circuit protection all into one small black box, but at a price If price/value is the only thing that drives you then it's absolutely nuts I've completed a few diagrams for people over on WG who did this to later Le Mans bikes not the Is and IIs worth a bit, but the later square heads that don't go for silly prices. I guess their owners just loved them and wanted to keep them. One guy went the whole hog with MotoGadget M-Switch (keyless igniton), switchgear, combined speedo and tacho, probably cost more than the bike's worth to purchase that lot. It looked fantastic when he finished it and personally I'm all for it, but it's horses for courses. I spent more when refurbing the Sfida than a brand new 600 sports bike probably and don't regret it for a second. When I refurbished that bike (LM 1000 running gear) Wiring looms weren't readily available and the loom was a mess, so I purchased a very early M-Unit and rewired it using Thinwall cable. The bike only ever gave me a problem when it started to run intermittanly on one cylinder due to a loose spade at a coil and I can hardly blame the M-Unit for that. The fuse box is there to group the earths and add a belt and braces to the M-Unit as I'd no clue at the time how reliable it would be, so I put in some additional circuits that I could use to bypass the M-Unit and still run the bike to get me home, never had to use it though. Never tried to wire a bike with an ECU but no reason not to, just seperate out the Acessories from the ECU circuits and it would work. Not so keen on that speedo though but heh ho, we're all different