Weegie

There are a few likely culprits, first off I wouldn't conduct any experiments that involved running the engine Was the bike likely to have been overheating? Its improbable, but if the bike got super hot then you could loose pressure, but I've never seen that on a 2v/v engine. I'm assuming there's oil in the engine As @MartyNZ said most likely culprit is the oil filter. Drop the pan and check, if that's not it the relief valve is in there too and check the gaskets Sounds like the filter to me, leaking and dropping the pressure when the engine is above 2k rpm pressure really starts to build up to 3k rpm when the engine's developing more or less full pressure (but you probably know that as you've a gauge), I reckon that's why you seen the small rise when you rev'd it. I think a gauge is a good idea, but I've encountered a lot of stiff competition on that philosophy, if you didn't have one you'd now be dicking around with oil pressure warning switch. Good Luck, be interested to know what you find.

Interesting @Pressureangle I don't know if I'm setting up my Sport correctly but I close the airbleeds then balance at 2k and 3k rpm on the butterflies the idea is both TB's get the same amount of fuel so I try ensure they get the same amount of air, at 3k hopefully they are starting to flow a reasonable amount of air Then I set idle using the throttle stop on one side only (other side is screwed way out). Finally I adjust the air bleeds to balance the TBs at idle. Correct me on this if I'm wrong but my thinking is the amount of air fed via air bleeds is pretty much insignificant in the scheme of things compared to the butterflies so they've negligable effect at any significant throttle opening. I agree on the statement regarding getting it perfect I just get it near enough at the 2k and 3k mark and average a little

Just what I do, so others may have a different opinion, but all I use is either some blocks of wood or a wide jack something like this If supporting the gearbox as well, I just stuck a scissors jack underneath it Stein Dinse (and probably a lot of others) have specific stands, but I've just never found them necessary https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=686#prettyPhoto

Here's my 98, it's a nothing video just a start and idle but let's you guys take a look. Given me a lot of headaches, now sorted about much as I can sort it. Still runs hot and you'd better not get caught with it in traffic or it'll cook (you and the bike). Out on the road though it's great fun, it encourages you to rev it, I'm normally running it at 5k and above because that's where it seems happiest and noise is great The Australia 98s had the Daytona RS engine (hence the heat due to the stupid cam only fitted to the RS lumps), a beam frame, similar to Guzzi's (the 92s had a tubular frame more akin to Tontis) and Paioli forks replacing the Forcelle Italia on the 92s

I saw it already but it's a great video and what a symphony!!! It's also worth looking at his other videos some truly splendid bikes with some background on them including some other Guzzis. I know that bike and its previous owner who had it for a long time. It's in first class condition and the PO is very meticulous in caring for his bikes. It's an Australia 92, with the standard Daytona engine, but that particular engine has been upgraded to a "B" kit, its also got some other goodies including a spacer that incorporates an oil cooler with temp and pressure gauge plus Caruso oil pump with steel oil pump and service shaft gears. There was a later run of Australias made in 98 and they were different in quite a few ways, though you might not notice at first glance

Got them on the Magni 1000 and a monoshock on the R9T I really like their products

I was going to add earlier to check the Voltage on the black wire which I believe is the reference but didn't as @farfons stated he ran that wire to the battery and there was no change, the same with the earth but again he did that as well. In my experience on my Sporti that double "jack" plug comes apart easily, for now they're held together with a cable tie, but I'm going to cut them both off and replace it with something more secure. The reference itself is measured in a crap place passing through a fuse and 2 relays (starter & headlamp) in the Sport, not to mention the wire running the length of the bike, so corroded or dirty contacts could cause the reference to "see" low volts and lead to overcharging. That said you've already eliminated these as potential problem by running wiring to the battery to test and found no difference, so you've reached my level of ignorance on the issue.

Out of interest @Tomchri are you just using 2 of the available phases (2 of the 3 yellow wires) on the Shindengen 847 and leaving the 3rd disconnected? It's what I'd like to do with my Sport 1100 and HiCam engined bikes that use the same charging system as the V11 Not a cheap option, but I've not got much faith in the alternative, specifically stating they won't support batteries with low internal resistance (LiFe and AGM batteries).

No all Daytonas were 4v/v HiCam engines, the difference between the cooking Daytona and the RS were Dark Grey Engine Paint WP Suspension front and rear (the early bikes has pretty awful Marzocchi front forks and a Koni rear shock) Stage C engine tune (Wiseco pistons, Carrillo Rods, hotter cam, Hi Flow air filter, different exhaust and map) That looks like an early one (it's a 93 and that's about the year they started in production) judging by the forks, pork chops and engine colour, although it has the pod filters and bellmouth as fitted to the Dr John and what looks like a Termigioni full system, I can't be sure, the crossover isn't standard and the end cans are Termis (or Termi stickers). The white paint job, or it could be a wrap, isn't standard either (but I think really suits it) and the wheels are black, the originals were white, which looked great until you rode it and had to clean them after every ride. Personally I think it's a really nice example that's been tastefully modded. All that's just off the top of my head there's probably more. Even a "cooking" Daytona is a magic thing, the 4v/v engine is a beast, it encourages you to rev it and it sounds glorious. 15k sounds a little rich, but they really are great bikes and I think will rise in value, after the round heads I think it's the best looking engine Guzzi made.

I wasn't going to post again, but, the PRV release pressure can be adjusted by shimming the spring to compress, making the valve lift at higher pressures. With the HiCam engine my own experience was the OEM spring acuation wasn't all or nothing, it partially lifted, prior to full lift When I conducted static tests on the valve I found the lift pressure with cold oil on the bench was higher than the pressure when I ran the valve in the engine. My best guess why this occurs (and it's no more than that) was the valve cycling inside the running engine. The result was the running pressure in the engine was lower than the lift pressure obtained on the bench. I also want to thank @Lucky Phil for all the time and help he generously gave me and the solution of installing the Griso spring into the PRV in the HiCam. Without it I'd still be groping around in the dark. The aforementioned results were with the 4v/v engine and it's different to the 2v/v engine. I've never had the need to conduct any tests on a 2v/v engine as I've never experienced any problems with the 2v/v bikes. On both of mine the pressure is stable at approximately the PRV lift pressure of 60psi once the engine is up to temp and revs over 2ks. No idea if that's any help or not but thought I'd add it just in case

I've been poked with a stick before on oil pressure and my approach to monitoring with what I percieved as a potential problem engine. I don't think my phillosophy is 100% correct for all people on all ocassions, nor do I believe it's 100% wrong. IMHO there is more than "one way to skin a cat" and the answers to questions/problems don't need to be mutually exclusive. EDIT: And just to let everybody in on a little secret, the reason manufacturers don't fit gauges to vehicles anymore?............Accountants I'll get my coat

Have you checked the PRV @LaGrasta ? Just an idle musing on my part and I wondered if it was sticking slightly. @motortouring IMHO its not bad idea to do that, I just never thought about it

I don't own a V11 but have a Sport 1100 an LM 1000 & a HiCam engined bikes, so on V11 specifics I'm somewhat lacking, but AFAIK there is little difference between the V11 and Sport on the lubrication side. You obviously are well aware of the pressure behaviour on the bikes and I'm sure you also know that the oil pressure switches don't have the best reliability reputation. On your friends V11 it's almost certainly the bulb that's defective. I've never switched the bike off with the kill switch and then kept an eye on the pressure warning, so can't say for sure, if there would be a slight delay or not, but I can't recall seeing it happen. I've never ran a 2 v/v bike on 10/60, but the additional viscosity might also increase the pressure decay time. I also don't understand the statement about the oil pressure being out after the bike stalls (ignition OFF), the light will be out if the igntion swtich if OFF as there is no voltage to it, pressure or not it will not illuminate. If the light doesn't illuminate when the ignition is on and the engine has not been run the pressure switch is defective or starting to fail. What I'd do is either replace the switch, remove the exisitng switch and test it, or install a temporary gauge into the pressure switch location to separate the true pressure behaviour in the system from the instrumentation. If installing a gauge I believe the crankcase thread for the switch is an M12x1.5 thread Here is a crank test on a HiCam (4v/v) bike with cold 15W/50 oil, it doesn't have any relevance except you can see there is a short period when the engine stops rotating and the pressure decays to approx 7psi. That's on cold oil though, I'd expect it to be much quicker on a hot engine

Just put that onto my watch list I haven't checked what the threads are on the Guzzi part as I don't want to drain the tank right now If you do size yours it would be great if you could tell us if this is a direct replacement as I'd purchase a couple for my bikes. If you check his stores for a few dollars more he offers an assembly with the guaze filter and/or the filter separately

Just to add that I don't think it'll make any difference on which side the Petcock and pressure regulator are, providing the tubing in the fuel system is rearranged to suit. However if the Petcock and pressure regulators have just been swapped over then I doubt the engine would start. You'll also be running the pump dry and that won't be doing it any good either. Line from the Petcock should run to the fuel pump inlet, the pump outlet then runs to the fuel filter, from the fuel filter a line runs to one of the injectors then the other after that a line runs up to the regulator on the tank (ASS-uming it's the same a HiCam or Sporti). I'd follow the Petcock line and make sure it's running to the pump inlet, if it's running to one of the injectors then you'll need to swap the Petcock and pressure regulator components around. Apologies if I'm "teaching my granny"

Yup they used these POS's a lot, good design let down by inappropraite material. @Lucky Phil has thread where he tore one down then modified it to work properly. I think it's an O ring that the gas swells and makes the tap hard to use. It looks to me like that one is in the Open position, but it might not be fully open, they are a bitch to use and I end up using a pipe wrench on them to open and close. Clockwise to close and Anticlockwise to open as viewed from the floor looking up to the tank, obviously the opposite if looking from the tank downwards towards the ground Good catch @paulnaz I never noticed and checked my Sporti and HiCam (don't have a V11) and the fuel tap is on the left on both bikes looking from the rear of the bike towards the front)

Bit late but it was posted up with an article on WG a long time back. Bored out 1100 Sport. One of my all time favourates but as Professor Roper said increasing the capacity of an 1100 Sport was questionable given its already marginal crankcase breathing

Disclaimer I only know the 5 speed box BUT that speedo drive assembly looks identical to the 5 speed. ASS-UMING it's the same then here are some pics from the 5 speed, if they are different I'm sure @docc will jump in The Worm drive that is turned by the layshaft is held onto the layshaft by a small steel ball, like a ballbearing. It sits in the longest groove in the layshaft and is held captive by the layshaft nut REMEMBER THIS IS A 5 SPEED THE 6 SPEED COULD BE DIFFERENT Did you remove the drive assembly, that bottom washer can get left behind and (if it's like the 5 speed) fall into the box and create mayhem Don't take any of this as correct until somebody familiar with the 6 speeder verifies that it's similar

My Sporti has the straight cut gearbox, which is generally considered a curse. I love the sound it makes though, at times it's louder than the engine. I've been through the box and everything is good, so far, it's just the noise it makes. As Phil said, sounds to me like he's off the throttle and the gears are running on the other face, if I was a gambling man, I'd put my money on the gearbox. The Sporti also has Joe's gears they don't (to my ear anyway) make anything like that sort of din

I'd never heard of a 2v/v engine failing to prime and never had to prime one, even on a dry engine after rebuilds. After 5 seconds or so (if the oil filter is prefilled) I've always seen pressure. It would be interesting to know if somebody has actually experienced this just out of interest The HiCams on the other hand are a completely different kettle of fish

I have no clue, but as @Scud said you've got to try to narrow down when the rattle is occuring. It doesn't sound like clutch plates to me, but I don't own a V11 and basing my experience on earlier bikes

Ouch!! Oh and just to shadow @docc reply, the Magni Sporti is a little different in it's drive shaft set up, but ocassionally if I've buggered up there I sometimes get a noise from it, more of click than a rattle but I hear it irrespective of clutch engagement. Apologies if you know all this and these answers are blindingly obvious, but I don't know how well you know the bike. I don't know the 6 speed box as all my bikes have the ancient 5 speed. If it was me I'd try to eliminate the obvious prior to tearing it apart, especially as it's the "summer" (although up here in Jockland you'd never know it)

Clutch plates rattling? If so absolutely nothing to worry about. Ducatis clutches are pretty noisy, but they use many more plates

I just hope @p6x doesn't ask about a gear indicator Phil's comment on a pressure gauge at your knee, raised a wry smile, my R9T has just that & to read the dipstick temp on the Guzzis similarly requires me to look down to read it, with the Australia I need to get off the bike. Although not 100% certain, I don't believe BMW provide any form of warning on loss of oil pressure on these bikes, not even a light, so I installed a gauge. I only glance at these gauges ocassionally, as and when it's safe to do so. That either confirms or rebutts what I'm guessing might be occuring. I find it reassuring and can concentrate on the ride, rather than the lingering nagging doubt in the back of my mind, but I'm paranoid. IMHO it's personal choice there isn't a right or wrong answer, I understand and agree with some of the arguments against. I could also make a reasonable case to counter some of these arguments but I really cannot be arsed.

A little harsh Pete, but you've always called it as you see it and you've forgot more than I'll ever know when it comes to these engines (or engines in general come to that) I agree to an extent but as I've got a dipstick temp gauge on all my engines (laughed at by most as a useless farkle). I use it especially with the HiCam. It's less useful on a 2v/v headed bike (my experience is they're more robust) and personally think a pressure gauge is of more use (but I have them installed as well). I tend to glance at mine on the Sporti when caught in unavoidable traffic queues and want to know how long (or how far) I'm going to get before I need to pull over and stop. Once sump temp goes over 120C your close to reaching the limit, although the HiCam can go as high as 130C, the oil pressure is dropping through the floor by that time and definately time to pull over. That said on the Sporti it usually starts to loose power, once above 120 and you can feel the heat coming off it, even then the oil pressure is still holding up (told ya the 2 v/v bikes are more robust) When it comes down to it, it's personal choice, so if @p6x wants it why not? [moderator edit to correct the origin of the discussion: p6x] It's certainly not doing any harm, it helped me gain a rough idea of how a particular engine behaves under various conditions.