Weegie

We are talking about the connections for the warning lights? My 1100 Sport has Lucar or Spade connectors if you prefer. They pull off but might be tight or corroded on a little, just wiggle them gently and pull them down, preferably by the connector and not the wire if you can avoid it. As suggested by @docc I'd label them to ensure you don't get them mixed up. My preference is to use small luggage labels, it doesn't matter which wire goes where on a single bulb as long as they are labelled for the bulb they come off you'll be fine. The other alternative is to check the wire colours match the wiring diagram BEFORE you pull them off, the factory could be a bit cowboy in that regard. I wouldn't rely on the wiring colours matching the diagram without checking As far as cable lube I use the same tool as docc has put up, I usually use a light oil, anything I've got handy from WD40, ACF50 Plusgas etc: Just don't use a heavy oil (like engine oil or the like) and you'll be fine. Just thinking aloud here but wonder how a light fork oil might fair for this sort of application

Heh @Tomchri as my German is non existant and Scandanavians put us Brits to shame, can you give me a clue what you're pointing to? Is it the 75/140 in the transmission? I've just filled with 75/90 Royal Purple into my Guzzis but will probably up that to the 75/140 at the next change. I decided to get rid of the Redline Heavy Shockproof as there isn't any data sheets for it or specs it meets and that makes me suspicious (as does the miracle claims from their marketing dept). I'm not saying it bad but if I don't know what's in it I don't know it's good either. Also see that DAS want the 20ml of Molycote addition to the bevel box where a lot of modern oil are GL4 & GL5 approved I'm not being critical just asking the question as I'd like to know more and get the best lube that I can to minimise wear in the box

Pretty sure my Sporti has a similar system Before checking the Alternator I'd make sure all the Reg/Rec wires are connected............At least on the Sport there are 2 which connect with a half assed jack plug arrangment that (too) easily pulls apart I'd also check the earth on the Reg/Rec and the condtion of the yellow cables from the Alternator too You've replaced Relay #1&2 although it should be obvious but I'd check all the fuses, looks like some of them could perhaps cause issues That's if I've got the correct wiring diagram As @docc states, easy to check Alternator voltage remember AC Volts

No @docc It's is fixed onto the Layshaft. The worm has a small cutout and a steel ball, like a ball bearing fits into the cutout. The lower section of the ball fits inside the deepest spline on the layshaft so the collar containing the worm drive can't go anywhere and is forced to turn with the layshaft. If you think about it, it would really have to be that way as the worm drive will have a load exerted onto it by the vertical helical gear, if it wasn't positively located it would slip and not rotate at the same RPM as the worm. Dunno if this helps to show the collar located onto the layshaft. Behind the collar, the slotted section between the gear and the collar is where the layshaft bearing installs onto. This is a 5 speed drive but I think the 6 speed is similar The ball, in turn, is held in place by the Layshaft nut which butts up against it (not shown in the picture but you can see the threads it screws onto) EDIT Just to add the worm drive has to stay whether you like it or not. The smooth surface on the collar behind the worm drive is the surface that the layshaft oil seal runs on

Think it's already pretty clear and I'm not familiar with the 6 speed boxes, but the 2 washers AFAIK are shims and there to take up thrust loading on the helical drive. I don't think they are available as components separately. What happens on the 5 speed boxes, is the lower washer gets left in the bottom of the hole. The helical drive (the thrust washers locate on the top and bottom of that drive) are driven from a worm on the layshaft and is behind the main layshaft bearing. In order for the worm on the layshaft to drive the helical gear there is a cutout in the gearbox casing. If the washer is left in place vibration can (and usually does) allow the washer to move, it then gets caught on the helical drive. If you're lucky it get spun out into the bottom of the box where the chances are it won't do any harm and either get flushed out during an oil change or caught by the magnet. If you're unlucky it gets mashed and the pieces migrate into the large ball bearing supporting the layshaft and damage/deystroy it, or it slips further in to get mashed and grind away at the gears. Neither scenario will be inexpensive. The only reasons I can think why Rolf states to leave the assembly in there, are the already explained danger, or sealing to prevent water ingress. If the washers are removed and a flat rubber ring or even O ring used on the plug to eal it, then all should be good. My 1100 sport runs SpeedHut gauges and I removed the Gearbox internals, not had a problem.

Hopefully Kiwi Roy will show up. I believe the switches are rebuildable, although I've never had one apart myself. If the swtich is dodgy I'd be doing that as quite apart from the starting issue, there's a good chance it'll give up and leave you stranded somewhere. From a quick glance at an early V11 diagram it doesn't look like the switch is under the same load as earlier schemes, which is a good thing Old battery is where I'd start & although I don't have a V11 Phil's advice about the battery reconditioning or replacing and starting advice is what I do with my Sporti. In my experience twisting the throttle on starting just makes things worse

That's a good idea anyway, even if the grease hasn't pressurised the bearing. I found that just poking the ball on the fitting loosens it up. Usually there's all manner of crap that gets thrown onto the fitting from the road and then even a small amount of corrosion will "weld" the ball onto the static part of the valve. Mind you I'm referring to Magni's shafts which are slightly different but reasonably confident the same logic will apply to Guzzi's set up

No I have not, thank you for that, I'll take a look at the sizes and mounting

Magni's screens are very thin, depending more on shape than material for rigidty. I can't comment on the V11 fairing but on the Magni bikes I own, when you order a screen it comes with only the center hole drilled at the front, the rest is up to you. It's tricky as the screen has to be shaped to mate with the fairing which changes the hole locations a little, the screen is in compression when it's on the fairing and both fairing and screen change shape as you install it. It's very easy to drill them then find they don't fit or stress the screen too much and crack the bloody thing....................NO don't ask!! What I've done in the past was to drill the holes in pairs, so mount the screen with the center hole locating screen to fairing, then drill the pair next out from center. Repeat for the next pair, then the pair after that until working towards the outer edges until you're finished. EDIT Just to add that after I drilled each pair of holes I then bolted them into position, before marking off the next pair. Then you unbolt the screen drill the holes and then bolt all the holes drilled to the fairing before marking off the next pair. Trying to mark them all off at once usually doesn't end well..............and don't ask me how I know that either It's an utter pain!!!

If the lower gear on the oil pump lacks a bearing it's out a HiCam engine Daytona/Centauro & some of the pieces are Centauro (where's the grenade icon when you need it) Hard to tell on the screen but don't think it's a Magni, more screws on the Magni and they were M5 at the front and M6 at the sides Just parts I know about off the top of my head

I remember in college a lecturer informing us fresh faced yoofs "You can never make anything idiotproof, because idiots are so ingenious"

Haven't watched it all but that's an impressive amount of designing and machining. I suppose some would say it's OTT, or what's the point? Not me though I love all these impressive touches just for their own sake, it's an artwork. Pity the video uses computer generated narration, I find it hard to listen to.

Damm Thanks Phil it's a 16M Reckon the principal still holds true, that the ECU does control the saturation time for the coils, that being the case if I managed to determine a stick coil with a similar primary or even slightly higher resistance, it would be a canditate for use in place of the Marelli 850s. It's not something I'm going to looking at anytime soon though, just installed some NGK racing leads to replace the original HT leads which were suffering badly from lying on the heads John

@Meinolf Wow that's a fantasitc piece of work and terrific explanation, thank you so much. I'll need to read it a few times to take in, in its entirety. The ECU is doing even more than I imagnied, I knew it was complex before, but that's even way more advanced. So if I'm reading your explanation correctly (still taking it all in) then the ECU has control over coil saturation times and can and does vary them dependent on various external factors. If that is the case then obtaining a stick coil to suit is a possibilty, not for now, it's very useful to have some rudimetary understanding (not you're explantion of course, more my limited intellect.) That's given me an insight into an area of the ECU that I just had no clue about I am most grateful John

Hi Meinolf The specific bike I'm referring to runs a 15M ECU and it's a 4v/v per cylinder Hi Cam engine (the model would be a Daytona RS). I think the Sport 1100 injection and the early V11s also had the 15M (not that I know anything about ECUs) Looking at the wiring diagram for a Centauro, which is almost identical, it's obvious that the coil has a positive supply to it all of the time, it's fed from the power relay. Does the ECU vary the period it opens the circuit to the coils (or is it a fixed period regardless of any other parameters), prior to grounding it again? I'm wondering if the circuit to each coil was left open by the ECU for a period longer than required to discharge the coils, then grounds the coils to charge them. If that was the case then the coil charge period would be controlled by the ECU on the negative side, when it was open the coil wouldn't charge and when it was grounded it would. Many Thanks for posting up and responding, very much appreciated. If you require more information on the ECU or if it's unclear what I'm trying to explain, just let me know. John

So I'm starting to get into my new to me BMW R9T ready to start doing a little service work and noticed that it has stick coils. A while back I was thinking of replacing the standard coils on my HiCam with stick coils and just looking at the BMW coils and placing them into the HiCam thought they might fit reasonably well. The main reason was/is to get rid of the conventional coils as I'd like to install a larger cooler and the coils and fuel pump are the 2 items that would need relocating (the coils especially being a PIA where they are currently sited). I had looked at this before and it's still just idle musings for now. One thing I read after doing a bit of Googling was how older bikes just left the coils to charge/saturate during the time they are not required to generate a spark, but that might burn out stick coils as they are usually a far lower primary resistance. Burning out the ECU was also mentioned if the coil resistance was too low as well, due to taking a larger currrent than it could handle. However the Marelli 850 coils installed on the HiCam/Sporti and possibly V11s have a very low resistance, around 0.6 Ohm, compare that to any of the older models which usually have coils cirica 5 Ohms. It got me to wondering if unlike the earlier bikes the charging/saturation times on the Marelli 850 coils is controlled by the ECU in so much as the ECU actually switches them on and off as opposed to just leaving them live when a spark isn't required. If that's not the case why install coils with such a low primary? As I said it's pie in the sky right now but just a thought and if it was possible and stick coils could be identified that were suitable, might help others as the Marelli coils can sometimes be hard to source. I wonder if @Meinolf knows if the ECU switches the coils on and off and what the saturation times are, pretty sure he must have some sort of clue as he's done extensive research on the workings with the ECU and built simulators to mimic its functions on a running bike. Idle musings for now John

Phil nailed it back on page 1, AFAIK Octane number does not equate to a "bigger bang" usually the reverse is true. The majority on here are extremely well informed (I'm excluding myself in that statement). AFAIK, Octane rating is poorly understood by the majority of motorcyclists. It's usually equated with more power and that's not the case (unless the engine is designed around the rating), it delays the onset of detonation and to make use of that the engine has to be tuned to suit. Reading about Aero engines during WWII the allies had acess to 100 Octane then 150 (pure Octane being 100 on the detotnation scale). This enabled engines (like the Merlin) to produce more power but to do so they ran at stupidly high boost numbers.

Reading this just out of interest as I don't own a V11. Just a couple of stupid questions, from the thread I gather that there are 2 Lambdas installed, in the headers? Are these wide or narrow band? I've got an 2017 R9T and I've installed a full Zard system, so bye bye cat. The R9T MAY run a little lean without the cat, opinion varies, the system is (allegedly) closed loop and the sensors are narrow band. I've installed a RapidBike Evo, this will adaptive tune using the narrow band over a few hundred miles to an adjustable AFR set by the user, if required, it also allows some other fuel tweaks and you can tinker with the map. To get the very best from the system though, a wideband Lambda can be used and the tuning is "real time" (I know there isn't really such a thing). With the wideband, the Evo knows where the AFR is and can target fuelling quicker AFAIK narrow band Lamda acts more like a switch and wideband returns a value over a wider range I'm guessing the Lambdas in the Guzzi are narrow band but wondered out of interest. Oh and I'm pretty ignorant about this whole thing knowing only the basics, but trying to educate my aging brain, probably a losing battle.

If I had to pick one engine that contributed to defeating Germany in WWII it would be the Merlin. RR's policy under Hive's was to focus resources on development of what they knew worked, then gradually "stretch" the design. Supercharger and associated gearing being the main focus, but many many others. That's why the Griffon was so late and the Crecy never happened. From what I've read RR policy with new engines was to stick them onto the test stand run them till they broke, then take them apart fix it and run 'em again till they broke...........ad nauseum. IMHO it was brilliant leadership and vision, should Germany have developed the same strategy the allies might have been in a lot more trouble than they already were. I'm in total agreement with Phil and everything he stated in the post above To Joe's gears, got them in my LM 1000, Sport 1100i and HiCam, was it @Pressureangle who stated he felt the engine ran better? I'm of the same opinion. Valtec tensioners can have their problems too, but at the end of the day we just all weigh up the pros and cons of each offering and decide what suits us as individuals best

The Daytonas were pretty awful, suicide (self retracting) stand mounted on the front corner of the engine case. Unless you had supermodel legs, or were exceedingly tall you needed to get off the bike to put it down, balance the bike on one foot, the other being needed to push out and hold down the stand. Once on the stand the bike was unstable even gentle drops off would tip the bike forward, cause the rear wheel to lift then it was usually game over My R9T had a sidestand so short I could not lift the bike upright while astride it and had to install a longer stand. I can now lift it up off the stand, but still use a hockey puck below the foot most of the time. The "foot" that @Chris Wilson posted are commercially available (in different shapes and sizes) for BMWs from quite a few aftermarket parts providers to raise them a little and spread the load. Well documented problem that BMW just ignore.

I am begining to wonder if it's just me being too bloody anal @MartyNZ Thanks to @Lucky Phil and all his help and advice I have good oil pressure in free air on the move, around 60psi and I've marginally improved the cooling too, although if I could find a larger cooler that would work I'd use it. There isn't any cause for concern when on the move and going to try a 10/60 to see what happens. A run without the fairing to compare temp & pressure will at least tell me if the fairing is an issue or not Final thing I'm considering is a short static run up to appprox 100C sump temp. Compare sump oil temp on the dipstick and temp readings off Guzzi Diag. That'll show RHS head temp and also a touch probe onto both rocker covers. These can only be done with the bike at standstill, but would help by giving me an idea of the differences between sump, heads and head delta. If they're reasonable and nothing obvious awry, then I'll just live with it for now. The bike overheating in traffic is whole different issue and requires installation of a fan or fans across the cooler or larger fans under the fairing to induce a draught. Thanks all for the advice and time from everybody John

Thanks Chris I'll put that on my list of things to try

@Chris Wilson, that's very innovative I'd have never have thought of that in the month of Sundays. You're spot on about the belt covers, what was concieved for a the 4 valve engine was to drive a seperate cam in each head by belts, then a short pushrod/follower onto the rockers, hence the HiCam nomiker. The camshaft was replaced with a "service shaft" running at 1/2 crank speed that in turn drives the belts up to heads. It's a fantastic engine in so much as it's enormous fun to ride, but the design was rushed and flawed in a lot of ways. Many of the mistakes were addressed with the MGS but Guzzi made that a race bike, tuned it further then placed the cost out of everybody's reach. IMHO that was mistake I reckon they'd have got a lot more sales from a milder road version, not so focused with less high end components.

@Skeeve & @Lucky Phil I'm going to try to settle that debate come the summer by running the bike sans fairing and determine what temps are like. The problem with the Australia 98 bikes is only 50 or so were built and I'm willing to wager 49 of them sit in air conditioned garages or front rooms, never turning a wheel. The 93 (I think) bikes, are different, these first iteration machines were cooking (sorry) Daytonas and from my own limited experience the early Daytonas and even B kitted bikes, don't suffer from the same amount of heat rejection issues. The 93 series bikes actually have a different frame although on initial glance they appear identical, but that's an aside. It's a good idea Skeeve but I wouldn't think it would contribute much, however every little bit would help. Right now the bike has a smaller Setrab cooler installed but with dash 8 hose and full flow fittings. The cooler is mounted just above the alternator and gives slightly better temperatures in free air than the OEM which was installed below the alternator. When I say better temps of course I'm only referring to running in free air above 40mph with ambients in the low 20s C. Part install The fuel pump was relocated to where the filter was sited originally, as it's too heavy to be supported above the cooler with clips (but I'm going to look at that again) and the filter now sits above the cooler. So far the pump hasn't fried but I've no great faith it won't, hence the desire to relocate it somewhere cooler. Ideally what I want to do is relocate the coils and the only place I can see is close to the rear wheel underneath the seat to the rear where there's a little space. That would mean a long HT lead run, far from ideal. That dammed HUGE airbox hogs all the space, I can't find anywhere else. Probably the reason Magni put the coils there in the first place............desperation!!! If I could get rid of some of the shit at the front I could install a larger oil cooler and keep my dash 8 hoses and fittings. Of course that would do nothing for slow running but with the coils somewhere else, I also might have room for a fan at the rear. It's either that or series up the OEM which is far from ideal as it's back to dash 6 fittings and banjos, which IMHO is just horrible. John

This the thread you're referring to @Lucky Phil on COG (I'm still awaiting approval to join the Guzzi Forum DE) http://www.centauro-owners.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2752 If it is that's interesting for sure but he certainly has problems John