Weegie

Replied to your PM @rbrumana

Anybody remember this talking of side exhausts

$18k? If it walk's like a duck and quacks like a duck it's probably..................................... Beautiful as they are you've 2 options with them as I see it You keep it in an air condtioned man cave and watch it slowly decay. OR You take it to the track and, paraphrasing Dr Roper, you do a few laps then throw most of it away

That's quite a "man cave" you have there

So it wasn't just me, I saw that and thought this at least from the side. These were/are great bikes (I've got the engine and running gear of one in the Sfida 1000), but the styling.......................Honestly?

If you go to an L twin format why keep the shaft? Of course it's doable but a transverse crank is much better suited to a chain drive layout. I couldn't really care if they do or not as I'm not in the market for a new bike. I may yet purchase a V11, a Centauro or a Griso, but nothing I've seen recently does much for me, but I'm still in the last centruy and want to stay there

@ScuRoo I bow to your greater experience as I've never thrown a leg over a Griso let alone had a test ride. Of the 2 Guzzis I have experience with, a Sporti and a HiCam, I prefer the HiCam and find it more fun. God knows it has lots of issues, but on the road it's really engaging it feels like it wants to rev and rev and just go. The Sporti is a huge amount of fun too, less revy, a little more torquey. Both bikes have very similar DNA. The Sporti has a lot less issues and is by far the easier to live with of the two IMHO not that I'm fit to judge as my skills are shit and granny's are usually behind me flashing to get by, the HiCam edges it, but both these bikes, although much slower and less capable than my Ducati 1098, are much more fun to ride. I'd be delighted to throw a leg over either a G&B or a Guareschi let alone get a test ride. Both houses deserve praise, long may both flourish as Piaggo don't seem to be interested, I can understand that these machines are very niche. Apologies for the Off Topic comments

I far prefer the Guareschi Corse, to my eye it's more innovative, the frame appears to have a Ducati influence and is more original in its appraoch Gorgeous as the Monza is Ghezzi and Brian have been producing this style for a long time, right back to MGS-01 which one of them was invovled with. At its heart its a Sporti with a VERY expensive list of farkles. I'm sure a standard sport wouldn't have a chance against it, but IMHO it's really not that ground breaking Don't get me wrong sure I like and would love to have one, but given what it's going to cost I'd purchase the Guareschi.

Just to add to I think @Lucky Phil 's suggestion is also imginative and very cunning. If it won't stop, get a crush washer onto it and that would do the job I reckon, that's real thinking outside the box. I would have thought a copper washer would work too.

It's a good point I hadn't thought of, or if any of the screws are bottoming in the holes rather than compressing the gasket. That whole area will be submerged I reckon so a good seal is essential...................Long shot I know, but other than the gasket damage you mention or a piece of old gasket on the mating faces, I can't think what would cause that type of leak

Another double gasket casuality here on the Sporti They really are difficult to spot and can be even harder to remove. Dunno about the V11 but the Sporti and HiCam gaskets have different numbers, yet I find that the gaskets for both models will install on both bikes. I don't think that they can be that critical given I've seen none, one & two installed and also used Sporti gaskets (by mistake) on the HiCam and vice versa My personal hate is if I need to remove the retaining studs, almost everytime one of 4 snaps, then it's head off time.

Dunno if this will be any use, but I stumbled across a thread on WG about a similar issue with a Cali Pretty certain it's the same system and in there is a schematic from Roy with suggestions on how to test said Reg/Rec (but you'd need a scope). Useful thing to "squirrel" away, even if it's just to take to an Auto Electrician if you were going to ask him to take a look at the Reg/Rec https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=111896.0 Ouch 2 years out a battery, guess that's the price you pay living somewhere you get good weather and can ride a bit. I'll get 8 years at least out a battery like an Odessey, but with the weather here in Jockland most of the time the bikes are simply sheltering from the rain. Been a long time since I rode owned a Triumph, but their charging systems were even worse. Seem to recall that massive Zener with all the cooling fins sticking out the triple tree. More than one ocassion I was left trying to make it somewhere in the dark on the side/parking light when both filaments blew in the H4? thanks to Uncle Joe. I was young in those days and had other things on my mind. A dodgy headlight wasn't going to get in the way of a night with the g/f (how times change). Not knocking older Triumph's though, they were/are great bikes, Bonnies and Tigers especially, simple and super fun. John

Ahh damm on the fuse thought I might have found a really easy fix, but it was not to be!!! This is just a shot in the dark, but as I mentioned earlier sometimes when a rectifier goes bad (although I don't what's inside that particular one) it can cause a parasitic drain through a bad diode, to ground. You might find that if it is the rectifier that's at fault then your parasitic drain on the battery disappears with it

Damm I forgot about Fuse 3, when you mentioned fuses @docc would that not stop the bike charging, it looks like it could to me? I keep forgetting about it as none of my bikes have anything like that That's so easy and well worth checking, as well as all the other stuff

From these values it does not appear to be the alternator Your battery voltage sounds good from your previous posts, so it's starting to point at the Reg/Rec. I suppose the next thing to do is to ensure all the connections to the Reg/Rec are secure and clean and the unit is adequately grounded ( @docc beat me to it) I don't know how to test a single phase, series Reg/Rec and I think that's what this unit is. We could really do with @Kiwi_Roy here, I'm going to drop him a PM and hope he responds Sorry I can't help more

Agree @docc, I usually learn something from them too I don't know what to expect from measuring the AC voltage with the regulator in circuit. I think the regulator will effect the volts measured, but I'm not an auto electrician, simply an enthusiastic amateur. If you could get your buddy to test the Alternator open circuit, i.e. disconnect the 2 yellow wires and then measure AC volts across the wires you'll know if the Alternator is good or not. That way the Alternator is isolated from the rest of the electrical system. Perhaps greater minds than mine will chime in @Kiwi_Roy is probably your best bet.

Last thing from me If that was AC Volts and not DC Volts then it's definately defective, ideally the test is carried out using a good quality meter. In the thread docc pointed to you can see warnings about cheap meters having problems with AC ranges. If the meter was set on DC Volts I'd expect a small reading as there usually is a small DC component. EDIT Thinking about this some more I realized you still had the alternator connected to the Reg/Reg when you took the 3.5-4.5V measurement, if I understood you earlier. The Voltage test needs to be conducted with the Alternator "Open Circuit" (in other words disconnected from the Reg/Rec), so no idea what voltage to expect measuring that way. This is from the Centauro manual but I'm pretty sure the V11 runs the same alternator Alternator With the engine switched off, disconnect the two yellow generator cables from the rest of the system and then carry out the following tests with a ohmmeter: Check the winding isolation towards earth Connect one connecting point of the ohmmeter to one of the two yellow cables and the other connecting point to earth (laminar pack). The instrument should indicate a value above 10 M Check the winding continuity Connect the two connecting points of the ohmmeter to the two yellow cables. The instrument should indicate a value of 0.2÷0.3 . Good Luck with it, it does sound like it's defective and you're well on the way to getting it repaired

No clue what a good AC current reading would be, it does sound low though. Anyway @docc to the rescue If it was me I'd visually inspect it and check the AC volts as these are pretty easy to do before pulling it apart. Lot's of luck and I do hope it's not Donald Ducked.

Certainly doesn't sound very promising, I'm curious about the 3.5-4.5 readings what was that Amps? Best way to check the Alternator is to disconnect the 2 yellow wires and put a meter on them. Set the meter for AC Volts range 60 or greater and rev the engine to 3k, you should see 40 Volts AC and 15 Volts AC at 1k or so if it's good. I prefer to run it up to 3k as you're not flogging the engine to death mechanically unloaded but have the revs high enough to ensure the Alternator should be giving you an output Of course when you disconnect the the Alternator you're running on battery only so top up the battery on a charger afterwards

I said this on my first post but going to ask the obvious again. All the connections are on the battery positive and they are clean? The same goes for the negative connection at the battery make sure it's clean. I usually clean them up with some Emery cloth, tighten and apply Vaseline/petroleum jelly Make sure to also check the where the negative battery cable is connected to the frame/engine. Remove that connection and give it a good clean, tighten it all back up and more Vaseline/petroleum jelly. If the connection from the battery negative to the frame/engine is poor then you're going nowhere.

When you're ready David Looks like I've lost my bet then Trouble shooting electrics, looks horible at first, way too many wires on the bike and lines on the diagram. As you get to grips with how it works though it becomes (a little) clearer. The downside is that some of Guzzi's wiring philosophy is, at times, a tad bizzare (trying to avoid 4 letter expletives here). The easiest way I can think of to check the voltage at the ignition switch is to undo the 4 way AMP connector local to it and use something like a thin paper clip or a needle down the hole in the plug where the red wire goes into, on the loom side. Then put your pos probe onto said needle/paper clip. You should see 12Volts. It will probably not be so easy to measure the volts on the outgoing wires from the ignition switch. You could check resistance across the switch, but sticking with volts for now. Connect the plug together, switch ON the ignition switch and check the voltage at fuses 6 & 7, you should be seeing 12 Volts. Next is to locate the Headlight Relay. @docc as you know these machines any chance of a listing of which relay is which, physically on the bike because I'm clueless here? Once you've found it remove the relay and check the voltage where the pink/blue wire goes into the relay socket (the ignition switch is still ON right?). It will be on the socket where either pin 1 or pin 2 plug into. Below is a diagram showing the pins on the relay, the V11 uses the 5 Pin Micro Relay. If you're not sure which wire is which it doesn't matter one of the pins (either pin1 or pin2) should read 12 Volts and the other 0 Volts When you've had time to have a go at it come back with some more info and we can see if any of us can up with more ideas on where to go next John

Hi David @docc is great & very helpful, as you can see from my bikes on the signature I don't own a V11 but have a Sporti (its older brother in some respects) Anyway, set your multimeter to 20V DC (as you've said) and put the negative lead onto the engine casings or the battery negative and leave it there (a crocodile clip is handy to do this). Place the positive lead onto the point where you want to measure voltage. Check for volts at either side of the fuses. If you place the positive and negative at either side of the fuse you will always measure 0 Volts regardless of the voltage at the fuse. A meter measures voltage difference, not absolute values. There will be almost no voltage difference across the fuse, so the meter will read 0 Volts (or very close), no matter the actual voltage at the fuse, 12V-12V=0V & 0V-0V=0V. I'm not trying to be facetious, just trying to make it clear why, I've been caught out that way too, it's easy to get confused. I'm placing my bet on the ignition switch being faulty, so the first thing to do is to find out if you have voltage on the red wire going into the switch. Same procedure as for the fuses, negative lead on the casings positive lead onto the connector/wire. If you don't have voltage there then check the fuses. If you do have voltage on the red wire at the ignition then check the wires coming out of the switch. With the ignition switch ON, from the diagram I'm using there are 2 wires to check a pink/blue and a grey/red. If volts on red but none on the other 2 you need to get the switch out and from other threads on here it can be taken apart, cleaned and regreased. As no V11, for me (for now) I don't how easy or hard that is to do Be interested to see what you get and looking forward to the pics John

Hi @Voldav I don't own a V11 but looking at an early wiring diagram to see if I can help (a little), with 8 fuses in the fusebox. The wiring changed a bit as time went on with the V11 models, which is confusing. When you say there is no voltage at the ignition switch which wire are you testing? I ass-ume you've tested/replaced the fuses, but if there is a fault of some sort and you replace a fuse a new one will just immediatley blow as well. So you need to check the fuses aren't blowing before moving onto the next problem. I'm also assuming the battery is good and not completley discharged (it happens), so obvious as it is (forgive me for suggesting) but first check the battery voltage and ensure the battery ground is good. There is a black/yellow wire fed directly from the battery to fuses 4 & 5. The other side of fuse 4 then runs to the ignition switch a maroon or red wire, that wire is not switched, so it's live all the time no matter the position of the ignition switch. The first thing I'd check is the fusebox, do you have voltage on fuses 4 & 5, if not then it's a problem with the black yellow feed from battery to fusebox. If you do have voltage on these fuses (check both sides), but no voltage at the switch on the red wire then the problem lies between the fusebox and the ignition switch. There appears to be a 4 way AMP connector, probably close to the switch, in the line as well, so that's also worth taking a look at. A bad Reg/Rec can cause sometimes result in a parasitic drain, as I remember if it's damaged. The feed for the charging circuit is through Fuse 3, it's 30 Amp, I've not heard of one causing a short. If testing you can remove fuse 3, to take the charge circuit out the picture, when testing at the ignition switch and that would stop any short through it. I don't think that's a problem but it's an easy thing to do. That's a start, if you have power to the switch then we can try to move on from there Can you give us any more details of what are the symptons John

WG=WildGoose, WildGoose Chase Guzzi Forum https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?board=1.0

Mea Culpa @docc Apologies @Grim , I just took backlights to mean all dash lights, which of course it isn't so I'm at fault Large slice of humble pie for Weegie