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Relays: while I have purchased qty 5 of the OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12, I have never installed them other than doing some trouble shooting when I was affected by the "no crank" issue. I have now 30,000 miles and counting. Staintune: my V11 is equipped with this exhaust. I scratched one of the cans, and when I checked Staintune, they were no longer in business, having been purchased by another Australian company. After reading your message, I checked again, and it seems they are on the net again, devoid of an exhaust system for the V11, or any Moto Guzzi for that matter. They have a contact form, so you may be able to get them to make one for you. This is how mine sounds: This is with the Mistral: https://www.facebook.com/reel/1919546008426964 The Mistral look very good on the V11...

I purchased a re-engineered pawl spring, but did not install it yet. I want to check if the OEM one I re-installed will break again. This time, the coiled part of the spring is properly loose, and the effort is distributed around it as it should have always been. The stock springs may have been too tight around the axle, causing the fatigue to be localized at a single point. I am including some photos so you can get a clear understanding of the issue. I have the broken spring and new spring photographed together below, so you can easily see where the stock one broke.

I have removed that seat several times before I fixed my no start issue. That screw was never loose. When I got my tires changed earlier this year, I requested an air filter clean. Then my left admission boot slips its admission pipe, and the screw that holds the tank is 5mm up..... Guzzi or not, it feels strange. Anyway, now I am going to have to get that tank gouges filled and repainted.

I am not certain to have understood the issue; is this for all the Rosso Corse tanks?

I had that exact same problem a few weeks ago, which I described in another post. Same left side of the engine, and same lack of accessibility for one of the worm clamp. In the picture below, you can see the rubber boot completely off the admission pipe. You need to purchase a radio socket set containing 1/4" extensions and knuckle joints. The screw can be turned either by a flat screwdriver or a metric socket. Try to loosen the screws as much as you can. It is not easy, but with a bit of perseverance, you should be able to get it loose enough so you can rotate the clamp to get the screw more accessible. Use some spray on the clamp itself to help you.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1589241764655627/permalink/3581633522083098/ https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607477492402&set=pcb.3581633522083098 https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607554159061&set=pcb.3581633522083098 https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=842607400825743&set=pcb.3581633522083098 Really stunning beautiful..... my kind of color!

If anybody was interested, they have reduced the ask price by 1000; https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/1993-Moto+Guzzi-DAYTONA+1000-5022866829?zmc=PriceAlert-ADDetail-btn

Cheap? well not anymore. As they have now become the norm, they are no longer providing cheaper goods than the brick and mortar. Besides they are also taking cost cutting measures, not mentioning twisting the hands of those companies that sell on A.com. Now they have allowed a lot of third party sellers underneath them, I have had a lot of unpleasant surprises. Now A.com is my last resort. I make an effort to purchase from other store fronts or local dealers whenever possible. Even if I have to pay for the shipping and wait longer.

I took off my seat to check the tank's fastener and found it unscrewed. The head was clearly off the large washer, allowing the tank to move laterally. I guess this was the root cause of the problem as when I removed the fairing to change the head lamp, I did not notice anything wrong with the tank being armed by the support on the left side. Don't know how that screw could become that loose.

hmmm..... you probably meant EVERYBODY participating to this forum, right??? right!! Indeed, it occurred to me the left cylinder position could also have something to do with it, and I was wondering about neoprene to protect the tank, or a spacer to tip it up. Now, tipping up the tank may have some hidden consequences too...

I agree on more spin needed. Which makes it easier to pin point TDC, even if it requires more spinning. Agreed also on being around the mark. I used both rockers play, and piston TDC both sides. Adjust the gap, did one complete cycle and verified.

Why would spin direction make any difference? just curious. TDC is TDC coming from either way?

I do not have a "D" for destro if related to cilindro destro, lato destro. In any case, the marking on my fly wheel does not correspond to the PMH or TDC. I just check the play to confirm my rockers are free, with the top of the piston visible. That should do it.

I do not think turning the engine one way or the other is detrimental to the operation. However, you need to make sure that whatever direction you were going, you did not go back and forth without catching on the mechanical play. This is very clear to me. As far as I understand the "straw verification", if the spark plug was vertical in the same travel axis of the piston, you can clearly see the moment when the "Straw" has reached the TDC. With a V11, the straw can not be used in that way, because of the way the spark plug port is drilled with regards to the cylinder. Laterally. You just need to look through the port and make sure the piston is all the way up. I agree a straw is safer than wood, although you could still severe a piece of the straw and needing to go fishing. I just turn without anything in, and check it with my flash light.

I use a wooden dowel. You can find them at Michael's here in the USA. But it is of limited vetting. You don't need it because the piston is right in front of the spark plug port. You can see it with a flash light. Actually, if you leave it inserted into the port, the piston may severe it, or at least damage it. Now I obviously can't turn the wheel and check the spark plug port at the same time. So I just check when I have free play on both rockers. Prying on the flywheel teeth would probably be the best way to fine tune it, if one was not afraid to damage the crankcase by using it as a lever for a screw driver.

I did the left hand side. At PMH (TDC), the "S" marking does not appear in the viewport. But the piston is clearly visible through the spark plug port, since it is tangential. You are correct, moving the engine by rotating the wheel is not easy because there is very little movement required to jump the TDC when you are in sixth gear. It is a seek and trial to get it right. And I can confirm I do not have a "D" that I can find on the side of the flywheel. Luigi went for a bathroom break and when he came back, the engine had moved to the next station.

Thanks for the suggestions; I will start with the easy solutions first, then move on if I can't get it resolved. I will go spark plugs first, and Engine Temperature Sensor thereafter.

I checked; The retaining screw is the proper length. The tank directly rubs on the support bracket. Only on the left hand side. The right side is fine. I dropped the bike on that side after I got it. I am wondering if the fuel in the tank could have some hammer effect and bent the support. But it is clearly the support, not the screw. I need to do something about it in any case.

To remove the valves cover, on the Le Mans, the two screws at the back also hold a support bracket for the fairing. I noticed the tank is being abraded where it contacts the support. It may only be specific to my motorcycle, since I lean on the tank to tuck myself behind the screen. I think I am going to glue some rubber on the two places where the metal touches the tank. Anyone else had the same issue with a Le Mans or any V11 with the front fairing?

I removed the plugs to be able to turn the engine easily, and I noticed they were very black. Which normally indicates the mixture is rich. Anyone else with black spark plugs in their V11? I guess there is not much that can be done, besides the recommended injection tune up. But even if my TPS and injection circuit are perfects, the ECU mapping may need something 100+ degF and humidity compensation. Every day we are most between 105 and 110 F....

Both the plugs are out. However, as I was saying in my previous post, the spark plug well is tangential on the V11. I tried with a wooden dowel, but it is not really as helpful as with a vertical well above the piston.

The point I was making is that I did not find a "D" mark. Even with the "S" mark in the center of the view port, the exhaust rocker had no play. Since I am using the rear wheel to turn the engine, it is a hit and miss process. Putting a dowel through the spark plug well does not work either, because the hole is not in phase. You can check the top of the piston can be visible with a flashlight. I am thinking of doing it valve by valve. Get to the point where the rocker can be moved, and do that valve, repeat for the others. Even if I am not properly at TDC, it should work.

I could see three cold stamped markings: -There is an "S" which I believe stands for Sinistro or Sinistra for left in Italian; does it mean TDC Left Cylinder? should there be a "D"? -there is another one with =- - which last indentation could be a 1 There is a third one which has been painted on and makes it unreadable. I reviewed the workshop manuals but could not find any nomenclature on those. Anybody knows?

It gives you complete confidence about the seller who put up that listing...

I never think about trying to sell the stuff because I can't be bothered to devote the time and deal with the attempted fraudsters. I took a shot at reselling my Alpinestars TechAir5, which now retail for 750 USD.... I only used it once, because it is simply too hot to wear it in Texas. Invariably I got people hitting me with the usual fraud attempts. I am participating to a forum for musicians, and every other week there is a horror story about sellers getting scammed on Reverb or eBay. These sites protects the buyers mostly.