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As anybody ever replaced the Guzzi parts with the appropriate specification for the fasteners? Like in my original post, the 12/02 spare parts list from Guzzi does not divulge the specification of Item 42. It would be interesting to have all these Guzzi parts replace by the corresponding specification. Nobody ever did that? On the drawing above, the nut is not shown. Does anyone know what is the latest update Guzzi did of the spare parts catalog? 12/02 is December 2002. Are there any later editions? I found this on the web; but you can only consult. You cannot download the catalog. https://www.parts-motoguzzi.com/moto-guzzi-motorcycles/1100-MOTO-GUZZI-MOTORCYCLES/V11/2004/V-11-Le-Mans/FRAME/Lateral-stand--Foot-rests/422/27/332000152/999

Treatments never work as well as proper metallurgy. Black Phosphate or other surface treatments don't work as well as stainless steel.

When I purchased my first Japanese motorcycle in the early 70's, they all came with cross head screws. I did not know at that time that Japanese cross heads were different than European ones. We ended up destroying the heads rendering the screws useless. But dealerships sold socket heads replacement kits for all your motorcycle cross headed screws. The V11 is equipped with socket head fasteners, but not stainless for the most part. I wish there were stores like before, where you could go and purchase the exact amount you needed, rather than packs of several.

A lot of the fasteners on my bike need treatment. I was hoping it was only cosmetic that I could address after completing the Tour of Texas. It seems that I am going to have to remedy that situation sooner than later. The head snapping off clean on that screw is a wake up call.

My tool box is pathetic Docc.... I have nothing but odds and ends. The proper extraction tool from Facom is expensive. But this is something a guy with a workshop and continuously working on bikes would have. Already finding Metric size fasteners or anything metric is challenging here. So far, I have purchased all the metric tools and fasteners from McMaster.

@docc I can confirm the screws are M8, length 25mm. I removed the elastic stop nut from behind with a 13mm flat wrench. Rather than using a vice grip, I am going to try the old trick of using two nuts one against the other. There is also a tool that grips the threads, I forgot the name. Here's the tool that I would need to use: https://www.grainger.com/category/machining/machine-tool-maintenance/bolt-screw-extractor-tools/bolt-screw-extractors?attrs=For+Bolt+Size|6.00mm&brandName=FACOM&filters=attrs%2CbrandName

I was going to take a picture of my tail bag and luggage rack and I noticed the missing CHC screw on the exhaust support. (click the link for technical description) The head just broke. The threaded part of the screw is still in. To remove what's left of the screw, you drill a hole for an extractor, and hope you are able to get it out. If not, you need to drill the screw out completely, and use an helicoil for the repair. This is item 42 on the Guzzi spare parts catalog. No specification. Is it M8x125, or M10x150?

I still need to send you pics of my setup. I am thinking to use one of the Ventura tail bags to replace the Nelson Rigg I have bought $20 from the account manager where I purchased the bike. It works fine, but the slings keep coming undone.

The VFR750R is an icon in its own right; but it lacks the panache of certain bikes playing in that same category. I agree with the rest of you that a rare Guzzi would be much more pleasing to own.... and ride! The general consensus of people on this forum, is they want to ride their motorcycle, not simply look at them.

"hydraulic clutch"?!

I have been looking up that area too. Thanks for the tip.

That’s what the downloaded operator manual says for me too. It also seems to tally with my amber light showings.

I noticed when I open the filling cap, the tank is on negative pressure.

I really hope I will never have to verify it “hand’s on”. This is why I am recording all my rides and refuels. Knowledge before I venture inside Big Bend NP. Running out of fuel inside and needing to ask a bear to help me push.

As far as I can tell, and without much experience, my reserve light seems to correspond to what Guzzi announced in terms of capacity. Each time it started to glow, a refill would be around the 4.3/4.4. 150 miles seems to be the safe autonomy for any type of driving. But I would like to verify how far I can get, safely while driving conservatively. Not that I want to test the limits, but in case I am in a desert.

There was an article from Petrucci on Moto.it today. He said he took a tumble in the straight right after the finish line, while going fast. Allegedly avoiding another pilot. He said he was not impressed by the safety assistance; reported he waited a long time before anyone showed up to help. I looked at the YouTube highlights of the race, but they don't show the crash. Just him coming out of it. There is probably not as much safety as in MotoGP, still.... a bit scary.

@docc I was coming back from Lufkin, about 30 miles from home. I was dead set on crossing the 200 miles barrier on a single tank of gas. However, the reserve amber light came on. Not a slow graduate light. It just came on very bright. I decided against taking the risk to push the beast all the way to the next gas station. Exited the US-59, and in doing a sharp right to enter the gas station, the amber light went off. I am guessing the sensor monitors one side of the tank? there is some kind of berm or dam between the left and right side? no communication? are you able to fully deplete the theoretical volume? I refilled 4.4 Gal. There would have been about 1 more Gallon left in theory. But if some of it is not attainable...

I reverted to using typical gas ethanol baptized. I don't want to specifically seek Ethanol free gas station. 42 mpg is a mixed city highway. 44.5 mpg is highway 59 to Lufkin and back, max rpm 4500. Conservative riding, no hard acceleration.

Texas Forestry Museum in Lukfin. Stop #32, 10/50.s 261 miles (420km). Nice temperature too. 73 degF (23 degC). A free museum (they accept donations) retracing the origins and vanishing of the paper mills and wood industry in Texas.

Another place to visit.... in Amarillo! Texas shaped too....

My bad! Jack Gagne a encore gagné race 2.... this time Petrux did 3, and 3 seconds behind the winner. He learned fast, or corrected his setup in between the two races. Still leads the championship, but Scholtz and Gagne are catching up.

Jack Gagne à gagné race one in Virginia. Petrucci was clearly not cutting it on this track. Finished four but 15 seconds behind the winner. I don't think the Ducati can do much on this kind of track, besides Danilo's ability. The three Yams went around him like he was not even there. This track looks more like a go-kart track than a motorbike raceway. Or is it just my impression?

@FreyZI Time for another update maybe? May I ask the question? does the manufacturer has a tentative date at which he will do the seat cowl run?

Unfortunately, the leak is not quenched completely. Now that I know that the oil is a good paint remover, I better isolate it else my engine is going to loose its color...

Here's another candidate to be used in our V11 engines; Motul TWIN 20W-50 Here's the data sheet; The Motul representative said the ZDDP is 1300 ppm. While the amount seems to be relatively small, the "triple synthetic cocktail" is what makes this oil tailor suited for air/oil-air cooled old tech. engines. He actually did recommend that oil for the V11. What makes the blend ESTER / PAO /GR3 better than a 100% Ester oil? We already addressed the oil that serves as the basis for engine lubricant are classified in groups. Group III, Group IV, Group V are all considered synthetic; Group I, Group II are considered mineral oil. A fully Synthetic oil can be either Group III, IV, V. A semi-Synthetic oil is a blend composed of either Group I and II or both, and any of Group III, IV, V. So what does a fully Synthetic blend made of Group III, IV (PAO polyalphaolefin ), V (Ester) achieve? Group III and Group IV are very similar chemically. They have almost no cleaning ability. You would not expect to have any sealing issue with them, if switching from Group I and II oils. Group V (Ester) synthetics have a higher degree of solvency than Group II, III or PAO base oils. This means they will dissolve additives and deposits more readily and may cause some seals to swell slightly. They also can remove some paints. These characteristics (other than paint removal) can be beneficial, so some oil formulators will add small amounts of ester base oils into their synthetic (Group III and PAO) formulations to improve these properties. Note: my V11 has been leaking oil and my engine is painted black. I noticed some paint is gone on parts that were coated with the oil. CQFD! I can certify Liqui Moly oil has ESTER in it.... in the same way of thinking, I did not have a leak until the use of Liqui Moly oil. You can call the Motul representative in the USA, the number is on their website. The Twin 20W50 is available in the US, so it is one more option to consider for your V11. I am going to use it in my Le Mans at the next oil change.