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Got a reply from AMSOIL:

Here it is! I used baby powder, the one you put on the parts that go inside the diaper, to prevent a rash. So the leak comes from that gasket between the engine and the timing chest/case that seemed suspicious yesterday. Can this timing chest/case can be removed without taking the engine down completely? @Lucky Philwhere should I order the "coated metal gasket"?

I was still adding photos when I saw your answer coming. What do you think of picture #5?

Photo #1 This oil droplet does not mean the leak comes from the filter access trap. This is the lowest point on the bike, so whatever oil seeps, it collects there. Correct? Photo#2 The right side of the engine is oil wet, with no obvious source. It is like a coat. I presume it is a small seepage. Photo#3 Whatever happens, it coats all the fins on the right hand side and underneath the engine. Photo#4 I cleaned the engine as best as I could, with water and an industrial de-greaser. After a return trip to Beaumont, here's the verdict. The bottom of the sump seems to be dry, but close to that hole, this is wet. Photo 5 This is where I think the seepage is occurring. It is difficult to tell. But it would explain why the right hand side only. Photo#6 The left hose connection is dry. Sorry the photo is a bit unfocused, I was using a slow speed. Photo#7 The right hose connection is dry. Photo #8 You can see the beginning of a droplet forming underneath the oil filter access. The fins right after are also dirty. Need to clean them better next time.

Went to refuel at Buc-ee's' Katy this afternoon; Ethanol free. 43.1 MPG was averaged from Buc-ee's Baytown on I-10, no Ethanol free fuel available. Topped up 1.955 Gal. Today, with almost only highway rides, I achieved 43.1 which tallies well with my previous only highway ride. 180 miles, and 4.176 Gal; meaning I could have easily made the 200 miles with fuel to spare. Speeds in the 4000 to 5000 rpm. No coughing at all.

Here's another variation about ZDDP/ZDTP. This is from a well known oil manufacturer based in UK: Duckams. I feel this one is a better article, https://www.duckhams.com/zddp-what-does-it-all-mean/ TOP 3 MYTHS Do we know how much ZDDP is the perfect recipe for our V11? We have spoken a lot about Zinc and Phosphorus, but there is a third one which is also important: Molybdenum

http://oilproz.weebly.com/news/the-debate-over-reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection

Unless one of us worked for a lubricant manufacturer, we all are in the same camp of those who never really cared much. As long as it is SAE, it should work. It is a pity that SAE does not define ZDDP and ZDTP and Phosphorus requirements.

I have read an article from AMSOIL that states too much ZDDP is not "better"; quite the contrary in fact, since they state it can damage your engine. Here below is an excerpt from the recommended fluids for the V11 Le Mans. As you can see, it is in line with whatever Oil manufacturers recommend 5W-40. But as with everything else, this recommendation is frozen in time. Interestingly, AGIP is now ENI, and they have a new oil line using the i-Ride prefix. They no longer offer Agip Racing; the only place you find racing is in oil specifically conceived for Aprilia: i-Ride Aprilia Racing in SAE grades: 10W60 and 5W40. Those are indicated as "racing" lubricants. For us V11 owners, I think the i-Ride 20W50 is what they would recommend. As you would expect, they only show the usual SAE parameters.

AMSOIL also advertises they use anti-wear components in the recommended oil for our V11s; https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/motorcycle/2004/moto-guzzi/v11-sport-v11-lemans/1100/?volume=us-volume

I know UK can be cold, but I would not think you need 0W -35 degrees Celcius would be exceptional. If I check the Castrol UK website, they recommend the usual 5W40 which is typical of all the sites I checked. In their spec sheet, they only state the SAE parameters. Here's the link: https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/motor-oil-and-fluids-finder.html?customerType=retail&category=motorcycles-mopeds-atv-utv&make=moto-guzzi&model=v-series-1977-&engineType=v-11-1998-2006&ref=954f0940624f1d950b784a0852e063d5&component=engine But if you want to feel safe, an easy choice is Mobil 1 V Twin 20W50; do you have to crank start your engine below -15 degC at any time? Mobil 1 publishes their level of Zinc and Phosphorus for that oil:

Indeed. What we don't know, what is the minimum ppm we should have. From what I understand, more is not synonym of better. This is the a big dilemma. As I have read, consumers are not really interested in what oil is used in their vehicles. There is some common interest in vintage vehicles owners though. Kudos to RedLine for indicating levels of Zinc and Phosphorus. This is what I am trying to find from those who don't specify whether these are included or not.

The SAE J300 tables help define a motor oil selection according to your own environmental conditions. (refer to the table below) It is not all about ZDDP though. There is another parameter we should not ignore: HTHS which stands for High Temperature High Shear rate viscosity. SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) classify if four categories the oil viscosity: 1) HTHS that controls oil film thickness in bearings 2) LTHS that relates to engine startability (LT= Low Temperature) 3) LTLS that relates to oil pumpability (LS=Low Shear rate) 4) HS viscometric effect that influence fuel economy Because in Texas we seldom see temperatures below zero degree Celcius, I could use a multigrade oil starting with 25W; I currently use 15W. Of course, if I go to Alaska and leave my bike outside, I would need to do an oil change. The other side of the grade scale is more challenging to comprehend in relation to our "ancient" V11 technology. In the user's manual Moto Guzzi recommended 40, so we could safely assume that it is the lowest grade choice. If you check the manufacturers' websites, some provide a motorcycle oil selector. For those who have Moto Guzzi V11s, 5W40 is often suggested. But it is the easy part in our never ending quest for the best oil in our V11s. Oil manufacturers in their vast majority only publish the SAE results.

One tattle tale, or tell tale, would be blowing that 15 amps fuse if staying with the start button depressed too long.

@docc When I read the OP's narrative, I think of what happened to me last year. It could be a similar issue to mine, which is now just a memory that I tell while sitting around the fireplace.

06-May-2022 refuel at Buc-ee's I-10 Baytown. Unfortunately no Ethanol free gas at this service center; 80 miles mixed of I-10 (West and East) and traffic ridden errands. I have not refueled yet and have gone beyond the 150miles.

7th Stop: 101 Dalmatians giant fire hydrant: #26 193 miles return trip.

I am working on oil at present. This is so unfortunate that excepted for LIQUI MOLLY, none of the oil manufacturers are answering my emails. I found some websites with similar interests and motorbikes than ours. Understand this as: "older motorcycles, 4 strokes, ranging from one to six cylinders, air cooled. So far, I have been able to recouped some information; 1) Multigrade oil is admissible. Fully synthetic oils are best. 2) Grade range should be selected according to the specific temperature conditions your motorcycle is mostly exposed to. The biggest challenge, is to find out about the additives list and amount. The so-called ppm of ZDDP (Zinc) and Phosphorus which our V11 require. My current quest is to clarify which oils if any, still contain those elements. From what I understand the oil components that we had in all oils for older motorcycles may no longer be present in those conceived for modern motorcycles. This is the information I have been looking for.

I think our languages are full of these idioms that we use without second thoughts. "Pulling the trigger" does not exist in my language. Nor does "shoot", you know, "can I ask you something? shoot!"

It is all fine. I think incident happens. I have not yet spoken to the guy who was driving it, but I will. So far, I only spoken to the owner. I want to get a full understanding on how a simple turn at a red light causes someone to lose control. There maybe a perfectly valid explanation, I simply want to hear it from the horse's mouth. They sent me a text the car is ready for pickup. But tomorrow I am planning to go to Beaumont to check out that 101 Dalmatians fire hydrant. On that topic, I never ever drive someone else's car or motorcycle. I am always afraid this kind of incident could happen. Even if you are not responsible, you still feel like you are.

For sure, this guys has many skills... not often housed in the same person.

If only for the unfortunate pronunciation of Guzzi, and Motocyclette Certifiée non conforme, this is trulya work of art and dedication!

The "cross" shape of the dipstick is supposed to help retain the oil using the "liquid surface tension". Although it is not "at a glance" reading, it is possible to get a level from that Guzzi dipstick. I asked my good friend at LIQUI MOLLY, here's the answer: the dipstick is calibrated to be accurate when the oil is hot (my guess). Quote: Technically it is absolutely normal to check the oil level at operating temperature. Oil has a different behavior and a different volume when it is hot, so to make sure the oil level is correct when the engine is running the level should be checked / adjusted when it is hot. We hope we could help you with our information. Should you have further questions regarding our products we would be very pleased to get contacted from you again. Freundliche Grüße / Best regards i. A. Steffen Niemietz Anwendungstechniker application engineer F & E / Anwendungstechnik Phone: +49 731 1420-658 Mobil: +49 162 2815064 Fax: +49 731 1420-44658 LIQUI MOLY GmbH Jerg-Wieland-Straße 4 | 89081 Ulm | GERMANY

The latch receptacle of the soft top. This is located above the windshield. When you close the top, there is a claw that comes in and locks the top automatically. The latch receptacle is held by two screws that are held in bushings made of brass. He replaced the screws but split the brass bushings when screwing it on. He said he used a torque wrench and used the required torque. I don't usually drive with the top on, but sometimes I close it to avoid transforming the car into a bath tube when rain is predicted. This is when that latch receptacle fell off. As for the what exactly happened during the incident, I went to Einer's and no incident report was done. I can only give them the benefit of the doubt. They could have said nothing too. I would probably have not noticed since the damage apparently only on a rim.

@docc TCO, is something I keep track of for all my vehicles. I do not have an unlimited budget, and knowing TCO is primordial. Some unforeseen costs may make ownership unsustainable.