guzzista

At this point the 2 choices are:( after measuring protruding distance from front of block to end of oil pump gear as well as where the pump gear meshes with the crank gear) 1) use the bike/s original pump and swap gears from earlier type ( might have to trim the back of the pump gear that sticks backwards into the block) 2) If possible, install the earlier pump complete( after aforementioned trim ?). The early pump has a 16mm conical shaft and the early pump gear fits properly only that way. If the housing has to be trimmed or shaved down, I may just abandon ship on that project and use an automatic chain adjuster, as I have already split the chain and am using an Alfa Romeo master link to keep it together( don't you love when Italian parts interchange?)

Thanks all for the replies. Given the cost of a new steel gear set,(the Caruso ones in UK) it may be worth to modify or make a new pump shaft to accomodate the Guzzi OEM steel oil pump gear. In any case I will first try to match a new pump to the gear and report on that. Thanks Pete, will contact you directly for the windage tray. Cheers

Greetings. Have not participated on this forum for a few years since selling my Coppa Italia, but, with a new Tonti project on hand, I am again tinkering with Guzzis. Was wondering from the forum members if a steel timing gear set from a early bike ( V7 Sport, 85O Eldo etc would retrofit into a 850 round fin oil filter- in pan engine?.... and speaking of oil pans does anyone know if Pete Roper still makes a windage tray for the Tonti bikes? TIA

Thanks, Greg, I will Definitely check that!...Spoke with Brad (MGNA tech support) the other day, and after covering the probabilities , (in my case

In order to track down the nature of the glitch at low/slow thrttle openings , I am going back to what was altered on this bike , and as some might recall, the camshaft wore prematurely on the left side exhaust lobe at 800 miles on the clock.Since it was put back together by the local dealer the glitch has been present. Now , trusting that the camshaft was reground properly( and based on the super precise work of Steve Hannigan at Progressive Automotive Machine I have no reason to doubt it).May there be a possibility that camshaft timing is slightly off or perhaps the chain was set just a bit slack that it may " confuse'' the magnetic position sensor and therefore the glitch would ensue when the throttle is turned slowly? If so, can that be checked with a strobe timing light or does the timing chest have to come apart.( I havent had a Chain type Guzzi timing chest open since 1986 so I am bit fuzzy on the way it looks in there, asides from viewing pictures). Would love to hear from folks who have dealt with setting up the V11 cam timing/ chain tension...Cheers

All points are indeed well taken, and indeed 'tis a strange problem as it does not occur till warm running temp ( or at least what I perceive that to be), and then not always consistently. At this point I am grasping at straws... ... regarding the adding bits of fuel on the PC111 mapping, we actually did that , with no percieivable results while on the dyno( the glitch thing happened there too, and sporadically at that....As far as for the ECU, we went to using the stock ( not Titanio) because the bike actually behaved better on the road with it, and besides , the Power Commander was going to address fueling changes needed anyway...So back to what I learned in Automotive Fuel Injection training back in the 80's... time to back probe the ECU harness and verify input values...

Asides from my preference for Mercury carb stix over the Twinmax I have tuned both my Calis and the Coppa straight from Jeffs procedure. To clear some other points, the TPS( both) ended at 550 MV running idle setting with the PC111 dyno tune, and as far as that goes there was a lot of fine tuning at all throttle opening percentages( from full throttle on down to 10% ) as well as under 10 percent dialing in (25 dyno passes with a near perfect AFR). At this point I have to rule out TPS problem as Hubert says its too unlikely that at 3400 miles they could both be corrupted. So now its time to back probe the ECU in relation to input sensors registering the proper values at the ECU side. I am thinking the starting point will be a temperature sesor, as the temp sensor holder has been changed to the brass(Quota) type and at running temps (ambient temp=70/75 F and a fully warmed engine is whre I am detecting most of the hiccups....pleae feel free to make suggestions...Cheers

So, my question for Jeff is: If the TPS is indeed set at 150MV (key on engine off and right throttle plate shut) , in your experience what is the average reading at idle for the v11's?.The reason that I am asking is that I have noticed ( a bit of ) improvement when the TPS is set at 500 mv instead of the "got to be max at 475" advice from my dealer....this is after 2 TPS units, both the original ( condemned by the dealer) and the warranty replacement which I received later...

I am wondering if a more precise TPS can be obtained and if as a group ther might be enough inteest to have one made.... as far as any other possibilities any one run into kill switches, relay or sidestand switch problems causing power cutting out momentarily? Cheers

Thanks, guys. As for the valve clearances , I have kept them at 5 and 10 thou since the beginning. Ratchet, you are certainly on the right track on the TPS.What with its 20mv dance plus or minus , having it at the half volt setting definitively ensures that it will be both under and over that mark as it does its inaccurate thing of reading Throttle position. Mine was condemned by the local dealer, replaced under warranty by MI , installed by me( made no difference) and now the original one is back in...yes I would like a more accurate one and would pay good money for it...the HD one? not much better as it also made by Marelli/weber.plus it ceiling of operation is lower due to HD lower redline..Anyway, the search goes on as this is both a diagnostician's delight as its a PITA for the motocommuter(moi) Cheers

After getting the AFR sorted out on the Dyno,( major fuel map redo via PC111) throttle bodies vacuum synched perfectly, TPS set at .475 mv, at times I still get a slow speed (and not repeatedly) pop when rolling on the throttle slowly mostly from a stop, but also at 15% or less steady throttle opening...When rolling the throttle rapidly , no problem...What gives?, anyone had a similar issue? or any recommendations?. TIA and happy end of summer...

Great banter aside, got to say that ,for the Guzzisti, a Cali is hard to beat.Great 2 up bike, and much more agile in the twisties than any big twin Harley , plus , with a set of lafranconi or Mistral reverse cone mufflers you will have the Bar and Shield guys trying not to look as you pass by (Pure Guzzi music!). Anyway, I am not just joshing. After clearing the garage a bit to make room for my Coppa Italia last December, I missed my Cali EV so much that, after 9 months I just had to talk my friend who bought it to sell it back to me...a 2 Guzzi family again! funny that it was my wife who wanted it back so that we could ride together... happy riding!

As someone who has had to take stuff apart because of actual wear, often under the gun of " to keep the costs down and hurry the f**k up" fron customers on their cars, I have learned the joy of leaving well enough alone, however, in the words of the great Sonny Angel (who, I am sure is well known in your parts).. quote>. If it doesnt smoke, compression is good , why mess with it?

Funny how that in times of financial upheaval ,Italian industrialists( Agnelli: Fiat -Alfa-Ferrari, Detomaso: Benelli/Moto Guzzi/Maserati,and Beggio: Aprilia/Guzzi/Laverda) try to unleash their angst and cut their losses simulteaneously by putting crappy electric components on their vehicles.."ha ha... that'll fix the whole bloody lot of them."..but seriously got some Taiwan made carbon plastic turn signals for my coppa after 4 pair of lenses and two complete Aprilia assemblies were turning into particles on the rear of my bike without as much as a scrape or other mishap... Got from an EBay seller (Vulcan_stuff).They are oval but smaller and generally mimick the shape of the original...20 bucks a pair.. amber or clear...worth checking into perhaps