Bbennett

Doc my 2001 V11 Sport has the frame # ZGUKRAKR51M113059 Not sure if it is affected

I never listed this bike on CL and continue to ride it. Still technically available if someone who wants it contacts me. I am in Seattle (link to pics above). Cheers! Bob

OK I am no mechanic but I will jump in: Your battery may take a charge fine (in volts) but no longer have the cranking power (amps) to turn over the motor. I really doubt it is the starter motor. The clicking is "normal" in that you will hear it when battery cannot start the bike. And after a while you will hear nothing if you keep trying it. I would bump start the bike in 2nd gear and ride around for at least 20 min at >4K RPM which is approx the RPM needed on these bikes (typically) to charge the bike. If the bike still won't start after that, I'd begin to suspect the battery even if the volts look good (> than approx 12.4). And if the battery is bad, you must wonder why it went bad - could be the wrong charger or a failing/failed rectifier.

Am really hoping someone who is searching for his/her dream bike will discover this here on the Forum and I don't have to offer it on the open market e.g. C/L. I am a huge Guzzi fan and always will be, this is one of my favorite bikes I've ever owned.

The forks were installed by my mechanic many years ago but it was not a difficult job (it did require some custom shims). I sold the old forks. The handling of the bike was greatly improved (in my mind) in terms of both responsiveness/road grip and a more consistent front end feel when encountering bumps at lean in each direction.

My black 2001 V11 Sport is for sale in Seattle, WA, USA. **sold 1/31/24** This is a one-owner bike (always garaged) with clear title (WA. State) and 49K miles. The bike is largely in stock form and comes with a V11 shop stand, factory tail rack and bag, manual, spare key and various spares and parts. All maintenance and upgrades done by (the same) MG certified mechanic throughout its life. Fluids, battery, and tires are current. No oil or fuel leaks. More photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/g1qvQTfvw8zPeWfZA Forum member notes: - Staintune exhausts with map - Veglia’s all work - Original paint including pork chops - Front suspension has individual R/C controls (from Aprilia Mille RSV) - Hyperpro rear shock - PC-III - Shifter spring replaced at 30K (spare provided) - Rossipuro cardan bar (I have original) and bellypan - Tank is not swollen and chin pad is undamaged. Left and right rub marks visible on each side of tank from leg contact - Gel seat added under original seat cover (pillion cover included) Thank you

Is it possible to to test the "most hiccups are the result of a lean mixture" theory by advancing the "choke" and riding in the ~3000 RPM zone or is the "choke" on the V11 merely a throttle advance mechanism vs a true mixture enrichener?

Nice bike. I've thought about getting one too but it seemed frustratingly redundant with my V11 Sport. Those panniers look sharp.

**Resolved** I am happy and mildly embarrassed to report that adding a bit more FUEL to the fully drained tank fixed the sputter. I will never know if the "original" sputter was due to old bilge fuel in the lower reaches of the tank. But that latest sputter was absolutely the result of a low fuel condition. Thank you to Docc and all the rest of you for your advice -- some of which I plan to add to my "to do" list for the bike.

It could be the heat issue.... but it is not that hot and usually my bike has to be ridden fairly hard for at least 10 minutes for it to manifest. These symptoms are also more severe and occur within a minute of starting bike. The heat issues tend to occur only at low speeds. BTW, I have heat shielded my fuel lines (but not fuel pump) - had no effect that I could sense. A blocked fuel line that allows only a trickle of fuel could also explain behavior (fuel line on left side is only 2 years old but I will check it if nobody comes up with an "aha" observation). The trickle would result in enough fuel "after some time" but starve the bike in actual operation. Bob

Please clarify what "position" the rod/tiller should be in.....thank you

OK, after replacing the fuel I did a test ride today and the sputter is not fixed. Symptoms: The bike will start fine. It will run OK for about 30 seconds after which there is a gurgling (underwater sound) sputter / misfire that occurs first at 2000 RPM and then seconds later at 1500 RPM and finally the bike if left to idle will die after about 3 seconds. This does not require load - is repeatable in neutral. Bike will start and show same symptoms (idles fine at 1st etc.) after 5 minutes rest. Bike history: Always been a strong runner, has approx 60K miles and is ridden at least every 2 weeks. Bike has always had a weak elec system, I have replaced regulator 3-4X over 20 year period. Bike suffers from a parasitic elec leak, I have to put it on charger before a ride if it has not been ridden the day before. This has resulted in long periods of the bike being on a charger. Bike has always had a rough spot at 2800 RPM - never could fix it. The 2800 stutter is exacerbated by hot weather but I can typically throttle "thru it." Minor note: Temp shielding on fuel lines to avoid fuel boil has had no effect on temp stutter. What I have checked / recently touched: a. Bike exhibited the sputter for 1st time week ago when Reserve Light was indicating low fuel level. This was at 60 MPH / 4K RPM. b. Adding fuel allowed bike to get home fine (approx 3 miles). c. 3 days ago fuel tank drained*, new fuel (from working Honda bike) added. I was careful to get fuel into both lobes of tank - me not being sure which side sucks the fuel. Still, the fuel tank is not full. I would estimate there is only 3/4 of a gallon in the bike. d. *When tank was drained it was removed. Upon installation of the tank I turned the rod on right side all the way counterclockwise (see pic). The knob on the left is fully turned clockwise. ***Is this correct?*** Elec connectors were mated under tank as per usual. e. Bike started fine after fuel tank installation w/ pint of fuel. Fuel reserve light was not lit (but it is unreliable). f. With 3 addit. quarts of fuel added, a test drive --in warm but not hot hot weather --showed symptoms above. This stutter is far worse than the temperature stutter noted in history section. LED showing battery level showed the battery was near fully charged during test. g. 6 months ago I replaced main battery cable with new, super conducting 3rd party cable. Prob has 500 miles on it - no issues. Fuse on new cable is intact. h. Main Guzzi fuse box today revealed a burnt 30 amp fuse. I replaced the fuse but symptoms continued. A 20 amp fuse was replaced with the correct 15 amp fuse. No effect. i. One of the battery terminal screws was not fully tight. When tightened, symptoms remained. j. Spark plugs changed 100 miles ago. Spark plug wires have not been replaced for over a dozen years. k. No change in exhaust smoke noted (exhaust not visible). <pics below> Thanks for your advice Bob p.s. Air filters removed for pix

I actually cannot tell with certainty whether it was switched out-- and if it was it was almost 20 years ago . I observe that both sides of tank have an apparatus connected to fuel lines and each are turned on/off by rotation in plane of the garage floor. One is controlled by a knurled knob and the one on the right is rotated as like a rudder stick. So that sounds like a manual petcock has been added. Still, on left side I do see a (possibly vestigal) pump-like shaft with elec wires coming out of the bottom.

Update: I am the original poster. I used a clear siphon to drain (most of) the fuel tank and the fuel flowed out with a beautiful blue color with no visible impurities. This emptied approximately 3.8 gallons. My plan to then carefully examine the "dregs" of the tank was ruined when I failed to correctly turn off the fuel petcock and spilt the remaining pint or so of gas on my (cold) engine and onto the floor of my garage. I removed the tank at that point and emptied out the final drops of fuel. The fuel spill prompted me to clean the engine, which I have not done in some time. I then reinstalled the tank and added a pint or so of new fuel taken from my Honda (which has a higher gas tank) and the Guzzi fired up nicely [as is usually the case]. I only added a pint so that I was definitely using the bottom part of tank (tank was emptied so this was a moot point unless there was something really gummy in the hidden crevices). I have yet the take the bike out for a proper spin as I had to deal with the garage floor and smell of fuel. That is the real test and I will report back later.

It is a 2001 model