Bbennett

I am a big fan of his and have followed the sad event of his bicycling accident in Italy closely. Saw him win at Laguna Seca. He was a friendly fellow and a dedicated competitor.

Useful riding mod: I now carry a compact pair of black wool/slight bit of spandex arm warmers that I slip on under my leather jacket whenever it gets a bit chilly. A small thing to carry but can have a huge difference on your body temp in cooler climates or in the mountains. Just passing the tip along FWIW.

All good advice above - especially checking battery terminal connections for tightness. I suppose there could be a fuel quality issue too - but the symptoms do not line up perfectly for this being the culprit. Sounds heat or vibration related.

I think your assessment is right. I have never felt the need for more power. Well except on straightaways on a track. In daily driving I find the power curve to be excellent and all I have done is add a PC-III and Staintunes. Well, pods too.

The Forum member who made the custom protector is named Edge. I got one of his parts and it fits beautifully FWIW on 2001 Sport. Good luck in your search.

Try GuzziTech website - Todd E there is the master of maps

My V11 Sport does not have this high pitched mechanical sound FWIW

I use PR3's and am happy with them.

I visit for the forum for info on my bike and I get great wisdom and humility. Life is tough, never assume anything. Thank you for sharing your travails, we are listening and do hear and sympathize for you. Bob

Actually when I saw the thread title I thought it said "compromised V11's". This makes me think I am biased on this topic, being of the opinion that it is easy to take things to far with a V11 since the orig. styling was quite good for its day.

I use a 160 for quicker turn in

I am partial to The Who

Nice!

I must say I do like the look of the 2017 V7 III Special. Scroll down in this article to see. The tank has a nice longitudinal stripe which is not visible in the shot of this blue model.

Here is an update: I installed a new rectifier in my V11S from Rick's Motorsport Electrics, Inc. (partnum 10-001). Note: this part had different spacing between the mounting holes and I had to purchase a small extension "tab" in shape of a figure 8 (see pic) to get it installed. Bit of a hack there. I have an LED bulb on my dash that indicates the state of charging when motor is running. Upon initial installation and at rest, the LED indicated the motor was not charging even when the RPM's were above 2K. I suspected my installation was faulty. I examined the 30 AMP fuse and noticed it was slightly burnt - though apparently intact. I replaced it. I did not re-test the bike at rest. I decided to take the bike for a spin, just to see if higher RPM might result in some charging activity. Low and behold, the LED indicated the bike is charging. As a bonus, the bike now charges at a lower RPM (2K) than it ever did before. A quick check on my battery voltage after the ride confirmed I had lost no charge. So I do not know if the new 30 amp fuse fixed my situation or if the new rectifier did. I am just glad that I can ride confidently again, knowing the bike is getting charged. One note about the replacement rectifier. I think it is rather ugly, kind of clunky. And it is made in China. See install note above too. Thank you for all of the advice, Bob p.s. sorry if pic is rotated

My electrical diagnostic or repair skills are not strong. I am going to slap a new regulator on and see if it makes a difference. I will report back on any progress!

Gstallons, Idle 12.8v 1200 12.8 1500 12.9 2000 12.9 Thx, Bob

Hello- I have reviewed several related posts on electrical issues but am left with this specific question: **What might cause the battery to drain when driving in hot weather at low speeds? Tach dies and bike begins to sputter when not driving at highway speed on hot days. Headlight remains on. Bike then fails to start. Charging it overnight cures all symptoms. Battery and regulators are approx 1.5 years old. Bike is Sport V11, has 60K miles, 1 owner. Thank you, Bob

I would like immediate delivery of an BMW HP2 Sport! http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2010models/2010-BMW-HP2Sportd.jpg

I dusted the ignition key switch with a bit of graphite, and put skinny new 150/70 on rear wheel (been using 150's for about 3 years, very fast turn in)

I made sure the battery charger was working. My V11 requires a bit of help during the winter here in Seattle or it won't have the juice to start!

Bike is now fixed. I took it into the shop where they replaced several burnt wires, the starter and the starter solenoid.

Thanks for all of the replies. This all happened after driving around town the day before at insufficient RPM's to charge the battery (long idles in slow moving traffic). I have the bump start technique mastered but the rear wheel would not rotate as usual during my normal procedure, and the bike would also not start from a "jump" from a car battery. Normally, both of those methods are foolproof. This made me wonder if the engine was somehow seized, hence the question in the Thread title. Thanks mznyc for your answer, it makes me think something else is amiss rather than an engine that will not turn over. Upon reflection, a slightly wet street sruface is prob. the cause of the bump start "skidding". I should have tried 3rd gear but I only had a limited amount of ramp to go down. In the process of trying to jump the bike with a car battery, the jumper cable must've touched the ECU as I fried the negative battery connector cable and the black (ground?) wire to the ECU. It was not a good day and it is one of the few times my bike has been unavailable to ride.