LaGrasta

I still don't have this thing running, gonna reach out to a friend for his expertise. It has to be something simple as everything looks correct. This past weekend, I confirmed injectors are being signaled and spark plugs are firing. The injectors are getting fuel, and they are clean and squirting proper. The choke hardly moves anything, regardless if I adjust it, there is very little mechanical movement on the throttle cam. Am I correct n thinking the choke, merely gives more fuel when engaged?

The seat spring and choke spring do not interchange, completely different sizes, will not fit vice versa.

So exciting, thanks for sharing and congrats on your new bike! I agree with the others, that's a lot of miles in one day, x5! I know myself couldn't or wouldn't do it, on any bike. Even in a car, any more than 6 hours and I'm drained. Please bring precautions like valve cover gaskets, plugs, check tires date codes, etc. Please be careful! Post throughout the trip, so your forum brothers won't worry too much! God bless.

The fact each of you are from very different and far away places is fantastic! Thank you! @PJPR01 @MartyNZ @Tomchri I appreciate your suggestions, but you misunderstand. It fires on starter fluid, and will run only as long as it is being sprayed. At no time does it continue to run after the fluid stops being sprayed. Thus, it's a fuel problem. This weekend I plan to crank it with the injectors removed, but hooked-up. I hope to see fuel being squirt from each. Then, I will pull each plug to confirm spark. This will help confirm a few details.

on and off numerous times. It's off now in fact, as I had to once again remove the injectors to ensure they were cleaned proper.

Thanks @docc 10k mile bike, ran when parked, stored for over a decade in a man cave in San Diego. After going through it, it starts and runs while spraying starter fluid in the air cleaner. My next steps will be to crank the bike with the injectors removed and certify fuel being delivered. Then, with plugs removed, certify spark being delivered.

I must be desperate, lol! This is a reach, but both are easy to access, so I'll check it out. Thanks!

thanks @guzziart The choke may very well be at fault. It doesn't stay on without my holding it which is difficult while I also pull the clutch and press the "go" button. With your emphasis, I'll double check it's linkage/cable to ensure engagement. Maybe I can adjust it so it stays on by itself as well. Admittedly living in SoCal, the importance of a choke has lost its importance compared to when I also lived in Ohio, Youngstown.

I rented an injector noid test set from the auto parts store this past weekend. Each side is being signaled correct. So it has fuel, electric injector signaling, and proper injector spray. Not sure what else to inspect.

Recently I took a MotoGP survey. It was insightful and interesting. They released the results today, https://trk.klclick2.com/ls/click?upn=PoVX9LpXas3zivvE6cDqXxF3NNYKpoq715alrWf7ej12fwiWmj7Qfi3ROpUxmiZ-2BETp3Wljb4H75drKL42Td4AwZozSsm41E9bexjSWBwAL9LJug9Rh2tSRHe7OKCE6IQuYg5YyrZV8tq7m1JBzFnRfLIMugL04l0rB9wY-2Bj6O1b0QEGudNTmN7aZ0-2F2c2lNUyJIB7YgaGaAXMshhvEDvMtkCt5lk1wXHXqJHDR6a60yTxVcn7s4ifAG6tBX5unJpqfz6s5cBHl2AqQOWMz6KQg9juhvaMW8dwXG5qa621fF8rJ682dhFRzRZinsgSAq4eYjwZYEjweA1INP-2BUz9oWyP3tb-2Fk6oq-2B-2FgtXY9BRPRMCvH42BZsZN8xqg5KzpFNgt0u_MTQeFU9OGQYuK17CNM-2FHMDO-2BYehk6VACOgbU2fsQLoGeM-2BTWI9pbBxfy-2BQ9SVj6OjJCX-2BIFtqaPGLkiv6smI6H-2F-2FuIOkYnie9IGzJDHAyN2ZUFt44lq-2BP7zkuToccCQG64KQWmQ9UN4AjM3nczEDUHz00jc3rIekT8SDMWTgU8W5gIRnI7AZlCEv-2FmsDdlMs2rEEbNEXZHuc-2BQSnuEq0R7em4t-2FLeKuhuPL71-2FcDc1jKcnnns-2FC4OF7Ndc6dOclTGHevNHhhf2ysVst4MBq8sQH669gOMt2HoG-2BdcJr04DikGZCK9skXtDq7YKxQ5wELwmv6ksxFKfJfxuZRBxHJU6njnZwYwJGX9NPjROyGbQppin46aZ8KMCmuRHK8YQV-2FCnVk76MnU5uY5zNR8NixPg-3D-3D

I just got off the phone with https://www.mrinjector.us Super nice guy! Not only is his service thorough, it is literally the most affordable one I found, $18 each, plus $8 shipping. So here is the answer we previously could not confirm. Our injectors are meant to have a stream, with very little spray pattern when under pressure.

Mine looks like #5 https://www.proflowtech.com/the-technology/

Pulled the injectors this past weekend, cleaned them again. Same results, strong, single stream. As my original thread was questioning, is this correct? It seems no one knows if it should be a spray or a squirt. My plan now is to be sure the leads are receiving signals. I suspect maybe not, as I noticed the throttle bodies appear dry. Maybe they could have dried by the time I got in there, but I see no signs of dry fuel. I don't own the injector noid mentioned. Before buying a set, any other way to check? Maybe with an ohm or volt meter?

"And find they're difficult to reuse once they get a little bent." You must be speaking of something else. Impossible, these cannot bend.

My Vintage Red tank is such a rich beautiful color, I'll be repainting the remaining plastics as opposed to embracing the patina. With that said, I'm a traditional hot rod fan (Aces Car Club member); all about the patina.

I bought it about two weeks ago, Amazon. Because it was purchased online, no returns! I put it on a 2amp trickle last night, this morning it reads 12.69. I must say though, the bike turns hard and fast, no problem. This is not the reason it's not lighting on gas. The injectors will be pulled again this weekend, I'll clean them and if no success, I'll get them cleaned or replaced altogether.

12.22, lights on 9.22, cranking

I have not checked this. I think that might be located in the tank, on the pump/filter assembly from what I just researched.

After discovering an oil sprayed pant leg some years ago, I purchased these reusable valve cover gaskets for my V7. I've reused the same set ever since. I plan to purchase the same for my V11 once it's up and running and I adjust the valves. https://realgaskets.com/cart/ NOTE: I have no affiliation with this company.

I lifted this from another site, years ago, since my 2010 V7 is this color. V7 Café Classic Paint Code Using all of my super Spidey senses, including deductive skills worthy of Sherlock Holmes' smarter older brother, I present to the Moto Guzzi community the paint code for the weird greenish gold color found on the V7 Café known alternately as "Legnano Green" or "Solaris Yellow": (drum roll please) Nissan paint code ER4. Long story short, I had a warranty repair done to my gas tank due to the bike being delivered with the right side horn rotated up so high that, thanks to normal engine vibrations, some paint got rubbed off. Thinking ahead, I asked the dealer to provide a bottle of touch-up paint and the paint code for future reference. The paint code from Moto Guzzi was unobtainium, so the dealer, Steel Horse Classics, used a professional auto body shop who matched the paint perfectly. When it was all done I got a small bottle of paint with ER4 written on it. My first search for ER4 turned up somthing like 1996 Nissan Gold. Since I don't know anything at all about automotive paint codes, my first reaction was "what? - nah! - must be some mistake". I have since learned that ER4 was likely never used on any US market Nissan car and is listed at various web sites only under the years 1996, 95-97, and 98-99 (for the Nissan Micra). The color description on these sites is listed as any one of the following: Gold, Gold Pearl, Yellow, Yellow Olive, Yellow Olive Effect, and finally my favorite, Sumatra Yellow Metallic. Solaris Yellow or Legnano Green is never mentioned anywhere. I found a US based outfit (automotivetouchup.com) that would supply a touch up bottle of ER4 and I did a comparision with the bottle I received from the dealer. I have concluded that they are one and the same color. The bottle I received from automotivetouchup.com was way to thinned out for proper use as a touch-up paint, so I had to apply multiple coats to get proper color density. I think that due to all the color elements in this paint, use for touch-ups will probably always be less than satisfactory unless it is professionally sprayed on. Anyway, just my small contribution to the Guzzi pool of knowledge and the three or four people out there who may find this information useful! Splotch on left is automotivetouchup.com 1996 Nissan paint code ER4 (yellow); splotch on the right is from the auto body paint shop that did the warranty repair.

I doubt this adds to your initial post, but I'll share it just the same. I have a 2010 V7. For years, I never saw the oil pressure light. Then once while riding at over 100mph, I heard a bang, white smoke bellowed our of the left tailpipe. I pulled over, then towed it home. After inspection I couldn't find anything wrong, so I started it and it ran fine, and has for well over another 10,000 miles. The bike currently has 23k on the clock. However, since that time, the oil pressure light comes on sometimes if I sustain speed on the freeway. So when I ride 20 freeway miles to work, holding the throttle steady for minutes on end at roughly 80mph, the light will sometimes come on for a few moments, then back off. I checked and checked, and could not solve the issue, including swapping the engine case breather check valve. I've finally ignored it and continue to ride with no problems.

I did not test this; I'll give it a try.

yes, the relays click, and the pump whirls; confirmed last night. I like @gstaallons noid light idea. I may check into that as it would be nice to confirm it's working. I believe the injectors aren't cleaned properly. The thing is, even if they aren't spraying, they are at least squirting, it should still fire, and it's not. @LuckyPhil, they are installed correct, securely locked in. As for being properly grounded, I do have an understanding off this importance. I have not checked this, but I believe it is all stock so it should be correct. Laughable I know, but I'll still mention this, the owner said it ran when he parked it.

not sure about the click (ill have to test this), but the pump whirs. If I disconnect the fuel line at the injector, the pump PUMPS!

I continue to be able to run the bike by spraying starter fluid. Otherwise, it does not ignite/run. These injectors must not be spraying. It's either they are not being signaled to do so or they are being signaled, but aren't atomizing correctly, thus not lighting. Prior to removing them for cleaning or replacement, is there a test to be sure the injectors are getting signaled? Can I hook up a meter to the injector pigtail or something?