audiomick

Glad you enjoyed the ride, despite everything. I have to say though, your working hours would have me looking for a civilised job post haste.

Yes, it should fit both. I also think it looks a lot like the original Valeo starter motor. Because there are no stickers on it, and because of the price, I suspect it is a copy. That does not, however, mean that it wont work perfectly well. The bloke I share my workshop with has a Valeo copy in his V50 Monza that cost about €30,- and it works fine.

Both my V11 Le Mans and my Breva 750 have the headlight permanently on, but on low-beam. As far as I know, some later bikes may have had "running-lights", but I don't think it was that common in the low 20's. Otherwise, your logic is good. If the load is pulling current, the current will go up at lower voltages. And I think it can be considered "established knowledge" that italian electrics are occasionally a bit marginal.

Less "to" than "with". I went out for a ride, for the second time, with a bloke I know. 120-odd km out to the south-east of Leipzig. That is the direction in which one most quickly gets to relatively good riding territory. Somewhere around here, I think. I'm pretty sure we went through Förstgen, for instance. Not sure, because he had the Sat-Nav and I was just following him. https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=13/51.19640/12.76397 Anyway... The first time 'round, he was on his Le Mans III, so I could keep up "fairly" easily on the V11. This time, he was on a Ducati 998. About the same age as the V11 Le Mans, but a very different beast indeed. And he's had a lot of track time, and he's about 20 years younger than me, maybe more. I haven't ridden that hard in years, but I think Madame Le Mans enjoyed it.

Guzzidiag can not read out the map, or show you the map. It's purpose it to show you the values that the various sensors are delivering to the ECU. It does that very well, but that is all it does. I haven't delved into the map myself, but have read a lot about it, mostly in German directly from the blokes involved in developing Guzzidiag. To view the map you need the reader from Beard, the same bloke who wrote Guzzidiag. The program can be found here: https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ That reads out the current map in your ECU. I gather connecting with that is pretty much the same as with Guzzidiag. To view and change the map, as far as I understand it, you need TunerPro https://www.tunerpro.net/ To write your modified map back into the ECU, you need the writer, also available from Beard's site from the first link. I can't tell you too much about using the reader and writer programs, other than that you should have your computer connected to the mains, and be really, really sure the battery in the bike is good. Better still, connected to a charger. If the process is interrupted, particularly writing the map back to the ECU, you risk turning your ECU into a quaint paper weight. You need to make sure that neither the computer nor the bike run out of volts during the process. Oh, and make sure you save the original map somewhere safe immediately after reading it out. If it all goes tits up, you might want to write the original map back in and start from scratch.

I would. When you're in there, before you have to pull it all apart again in a couple of years. As far as the parts goes, Stein Dinse seems to have them in stock. Bonus, when you click on the part number in the picture, it springs to the part in the list, and the bearing dimensions are listed there. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=en&h=MG&m=220&t=5380#a174838 Edit, in case the translation is incomplete: "Nadellager" means "roller bearing" or "needle bearing".

Yes, I believe I believe it is. I changed mine last year, so there is a vague memory. And this: https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&h=MG&m=220&t=5384#a174923 Part #3 in the diagramme. When I click on the link, it is highlighted in yellow in the list. M8 x 30

A thought occurred to me: with that much movement in the rear uni joint on the shaft, I'd be inclined to take the shaft out, pull it apart and inspect the sliding joint in the middle where the second grease nipple is. If that is not moving smoothly, there will be forces caused by suspension movement on both ends of the shaft, which could cause that sort of movement in the uni joint. And not be good for the uni joints at both ends.

Yeah, I've heard the word in Australia, back in the day. Probably in the 60s, and possibly only from people a generation older than me.

I went down and had a look at mine. Definitely the final drive end, and mine has no movement at all.

It's the final drive end. Firstly, I think I can accurately remember what it looks like. Secondly, you wouldn't be able to get that camera angle at the gearbox end.

The fan is a good idea, but only treating symptoms, as you probably know. Have you had it open to blow out the dust yet?

Nobody has mentioned checking the "earth" connections yet.

I doubt it. The emissions of the bike are what the CoC says they are. As long as a bike that was initially legally registered is not modified to the point that it no longer meets the requirements at the time of first registration, it should remain legal. Does Austria have something like Bestandsschutz?* I'm not actually sure if it is legally anchored in Germany, but I think it is. As long as that applies, the powers that be can't suddenly decide that a bike that was legal yesterday isn't legal today anymore. If and when such a situation should arise, one would have to find out how the relevant laws are phrased, and see if there is a way around it. * For those who don't speak German, Bestandschutz is translated by my favourite online German-English dictionary as "right of continuance". That seems about right. The term conveys the concept that a vehicle that was legal when it was first registered can't suddenly be declared illegal because it doesn't meet modern emissions laws or whatever.

There is, of course, a Wikipedia article to read, if you can be bothered. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Left-_and_right-hand_traffic#Steering_wheel_position For me: Driving on the left (right hand drive) seemed natural, because that is what I grew up with. After nearly 30 years here, when I think back to my Monaro, I sometimes have to remind myself that the steering wheel was on the right. The picture that pops up in my mind is a left hand drive Monaro. So you get used to whatever you are using. For me personally, I never had trouble with changing gears with the left hand, but there is something kind of logical for me (right-handed..) to be changing gears with the right hand. On the other hand, my left eye is close to blind. It is this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amblyopia So left hand drive means that all the action is on my "blind side", and right hand drive means that my blind side is only dealing with the paddocks next to the road. In answer to your question to yourself, no I don't think either side has inherent advantages. Which side is or would be better for any individual depends on factors like which hand is dominant, whether there are vision impairments, any number of thing. At the end of the day, you can't get it right for everyone. The main thing is, everyone agrees to all drive on the same side.

Yes, welcome to the club, Dave.

Phil, my rationale was that the car (Aston Martin) was originally designed for right hand drive, so that is where the bonnet release is. Too much trouble to move it across for the left hand drive models. The cars you mentioned: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Kuga https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Focus Both primarily designed for the european market, and manufactured in Europe. I.e., left hand drive. Same logic applies, I reckon: too much trouble to move the bonnet release to the driver's side. The Supra is Japanese. In Japan, they drive on the correct side of the road, i.e right hand drive. So the same logic applies: bonnet release on the driver's side in the country of origin.

Aston Martin? It's not only British, it is English! So, quirkiness is not a bug, it is a feature. And the right-hand side is the driver's side in England, as you very well know, so it makes perfect sense to put the bonnet release there.

I bought my Breva 750 on the 9th of August last year. The rego was transferred into my name on the 17th. August, 2023, which is when I started riding it regularly. It occurs to me that I didn't even notice the "first anniversary". I hope she doesn't get narky about that. Date of first registration, 30th. June 2005. When I bought it, it had 9,883 km on the clock. I bought it through a Honda dealership, and they had records of changing the tyres in 2013. Since then, it had only done just over 800 km. . It became my daily rider, and now has over 12,000 km on the clock. And an oil leak out of the clutch housing that has become apparent in the last month or so...

Or the other way 'round: he ran out of Bitubos, and swung a deal with Öhlins to chuck a crate of dampers in with the shocks he was ordering for the flash model that year.

Please translate for the plebs here.

Yeah, that's the plan. It might take a few days, but I will report back. Going for the golden elephant stamp here.

Yeah, I'm prepared to believe that. As I said, I'll probably bolt the mount up to the bracket on the triple clamp and see what really happens there. Assuming @Lucky Phil is right, the next step will be to contact the manufacturer and see if they have a mount without the ball joint. Failing that, as can be seen in the photo, the ball joint is apparently held in by a circlip (incidently, an external circlip in an internal application, but we'll leave that alone for now... ), so it shouldn't be too hard to get the ball joint out. If I can find someone who can turn up a bush for me, or find something to fit on the Interweb, that shouldn't be too hard to fix.

It's quite late in the evening here, so every chance that I may be dreaming, but... I just had a quick look at the circuit diagramme. A wire comes from the regulator, through a fuse, to the battery. Going away from the battery are a couple of wires that supply 12 V to parts of the electrical system, one of which goes to the ignition switch. So, when you "disconnect the battery", what precisely are you disconnecting? If the clamp on the plus terminal contains all those wires, and all connections are good, the electrical system should be getting volts directly from the regulator. The circuit diagramme indicates that alle three wires are (somehow) connected to each other. Are you sure this is the case? To put it another way, are you absolutely sure that when you disconnect the battery, you are not inadvertantly disconnecting the power supply to, for instance, the ignition switch? If the cables are all "in a bundle", do they all most certainly have good contacts to each other and so forth?