audiomick

Is he likely to get that? Even that seems a bit steep to me, but I don't know what the prices are like there.

Not probably, in my opinion, definitely. And there is a difference between listening to something on the car's audio system and having earplugs in. Listening to something on earplugs isolates you almost completely from your environment. You're in your own world, and seeing everything "through a window". I don't, and never will, listen to music whilst riding a motorcycle either. I use the earplugs to cut down the wind noise, but that is all. I want to experience what is going on around me.

Well said. That's exactly it.

That's interesting. As far as I know, earplugs are still ok here. Actually, I'd be happy to see a complete prohibition of using a phone in any way whilst operating any kind of vehicle, including bicycles and electric scooters (not vespas, the ones you kick along with one foot). Using the phone always distracts one from driving a bit. I can't see that kind of prohibition happening, though. Unfortunately. As far as Germans and obeying the law goes, yes they are generally very law abiding. Except if they don't think the law is justified and/or sensible, or if they think they will probably get away with it.

Yeah, I know what you mean. Not just regarding buying and selling. Any kind of senseless discussion.

There's plenty of them here in Germany, too.

In what sense? Being realistic about things, for instance that most of the population doesn't even know what a V11 is, is just sensible. As far as finding a potential buyer here, yes, good place to start because we all already know what a V11 is, but most of us have also already got one.

Indeed. You just have to wait for "the one" to turn up.

Not any more. They do that here too... @Cabernet it's amazing how many lanes a road can have, isn't it.

We're talking about motorcycles that are more than 20 years old, and not even known by a large part of the population. Finding a buyer takes time.

I'd be worried about the grease leaking out. What about fabricating a "plug" out of shot pellets and epoxy resin? Either directly into the bar, if you are really commited, or in a mould so that it will just fit into the bar end. Maybe a bit of plastic pipe from the hardware that just fits into the bar end. Fill that up with shot, and pour in the epoxy resin.

Magic. Here's to more days like that.

It's August. You blokes are heading for Spring and Summer. Today I had the feeling, although it wasn't that cold, that the first signs of Autumn are showing. Far too early, actually.

Would this do? https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/NjwAAOSwPA5hziif/s-l960.jpg

Absolutely.

You're right, according to Pete, but Phil has already collected the elephant stamp.

You know that means you will be fighting your way through masses of people instead of casually wandering around a sleepy little north-italian town, don't you. Seriously though, enjoy it.

Thanks, Phil. That's the sort of information I am always looking for. I do tend to stick to the specification in the manual, not only for oil, but like to know the background and what potentially might happen if one deviates from the spec. .

Ok, overkill. I hear what you're saying, but I'm interested in knowing if it is bad for the motor in any way. Going by what you have said, regular oil changes are important. Are there any other disadvantages apart from the cost of th oil? Regarding stressed valve gear, that is an issue with the small block motors too. The 2 valve motors aren't that critical. Particularly the Breva 750 is not particularly affected, as the later models had single valve springs that didn't give the valves such a hard time. The earlier ones, like the V35 II motor in the Imola, had double valve springs that were too hard, and the valve gear is highly stressed as a result. They need a fairly high viscosity oil. Particularly the 4-valve small blocks had chronic valve problems. My Imola has a 2 valve motor, but I have most of a 4-valve motor sitting on the shelf, and maybe one day I will put it together and bolt it into the Imola.

What's one of them when it is at home?

Lubricating, cooling a bit, making a mess of the workshop floor? I dunno, do tell. EDIT: docc posted whilst I was writing. I hate it when he is quicker than me.

Thanks, Phil. The "climate, usage and operating temperature" is something I am trying to factor in to the equation. I ride all of the bikes all year. That means up to about 32°C in summer, and down to 0°C in winter, or maybe a bit below if I don't pay attention to the weather forecast. Lots of short trips in the city with the V35 Imola and the Breva 750. I try and avoid too much of that with the V11. I figure the 10W60 should cover that in all three of them.

I want that exhaust! Beautiful. Handmade titanium. As far as the seals go, try this or something like it. https://www.mathy.de/shop/en/MATHY-DropStop-Sealing-Additive/1311 Basically, it is concentrated plasticisers that you tip into the oil. It wont, of course, repair a seal that is actually damaged, but it allegedly makes hardened seals pliable again. There are a number of such products on the market. I tipped that into the Breva 750 I bought last year. It had only done about 800 km in the previous 10 years. The chemical cure costs a few bucks, but I figured it was worth a try. As it turns out, it looks like the Breva has done the seal on the input side of the gearbox, but everything else seems to be ok. I've put more than 2,000 km on the bike since I bought it.

Yep, understand that completely. @GuzziMoto thank you very much for that answer. Very good to know. I have another question that I have been trying to get a straight up answer to for a while: as far as I can tell from everything I have read, it is ok to "extend" the viscosity range, both above and below, that the factory specified. For instance, for the older small block motors, 20W40 was specified for the motor. The spec for later versions became at some point 10W60. My impression is, I could run the 10W60 that my Breva 750 is supposed to get also in my V35 Imola. Am I right, or not? If not, why not? One restraint about "extending" the viscosity range: apparantly if the oil in the gearbox or final drive is too far towards heavy, it can run too warm. A very well informed ex-guzzi mechanic recently posted a photo elsewhere showing how the grease in the needle roller bearing in the outer side of the final drive of a V11 had melted because the oil in the final drive was very heavy, and an extended "spirited" ride had caused it all to get a bit warm.