audiomick

She'll be right mate, no worries... Seriously, though, having a good regulator in the system will keep the volts under control. That, in turn, will keep the waste heat from bad connections under control. The formula is here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joule_heating#Direct_current P = V²/R The resistance of the contact is constant, so the higher the voltage across the contact, the more work is done (power generated = heat generated). So keeping the voltage under control also keeps the heat generated within limits.

It occurs to me to mention that it is not only the blade connector that can have a bad contact. The crimp on the wire into the connector can also go bad. A good crimp is theoretically air tight, and should last a very long time. If the crimp is a bit shoddy, corrosion and oxidation can find their way into the crimp and cause a resistive contact. If there are persistant problems with bad contacts (too much warmth) despite cleaning and fettling, I would be inclined to pull the connector out of the socket and check the crimp.

Yes, but the "heat photos" show that it is not the fuse itself that is getting warm. I wouldn't expect that, either, except when the current is getting close to the limit for the fuse. What is getting warm is the contacts in the socket, and that makes sense. All things being equal, that is where the highest resistance in the circuit is to be expected.

The picture is no doubt from one of those "AI" programmes, like Easy Diffusion, where you type in "a picture of a Moto Guzzi on the moon" or something and it generates a picture. I had a play with that a while back. Quite surprising what it comes up with.

Yes, that makes sense. Generally speaking, a contact such as the plugs in the fuse sockets will have a higher resistance than the wires that is is connecting. A higher resistance at constant current will produce more warmth than a lower one. The current through the circuit is constant all the way through, so therefore the contacts will be a bit warmer than the rest. Still, 50°C seems a bit warm to me. Have you cleaned the fuse sockets up?

Check the edit...

His name isn't Wittner, is it? EDIT: found him, I think. https://ferraridentalcare.com.au/ I reckon I remember hearing about him at the time as a front-runner in the BEARS series. The name kind of sticks out a bit.

Hmmm, that would likely look better too. More homogeneous, less grafted together.

Interesting ad, that one. I followed the urging in the text to look at his other articles. Some interesting stuff there, some apparently cheap, including a KR 250 that I would be very tempted by if it was in Germany. I have the impression that the seller had big plans, but that his business idea has gone tits up on him.

Let's assume that the owner cannot, for whatever reason, operate a single track vehicle, and praise him for his humour in making the best of things.

That looks like it has turned out nice. Well done.

Yes, it pays to really look at that stuff when the bike is going back together, really pay attention to what you are doing. I had one where the V35 Imola was "hesistant" at a particular engine speed. Nothing visible, but it turned out that the one plug cap just wasn't quite seated correctly. Another one: in the course of doing something or other under the tank, I had pushed the plug leads out of the way, maybe pulled on one whilst replacing the tank. Whatever, I didn't even notice it running badly, but the next time I looked under the tank I saw the damage. The lead out of the r/h coil was not plugged up properly. It was still sparking, but the shroud that the plug sits on around the contact had been eroded away to the extent that about a third of the material was gone. Cost me a new coil just for being careless.

I hear what you are saying, and agree. Having said that, I'm not prone to lugging a motor, neither generally speaking, nor specifically a Guzzi motor. My first Guzzi was (and I still have it) the V35 Imola. If you don't give the 350 motor a caning, nothing happens. And it begs you consantly to give it the berries. The third Guzzi is a Breva 750, also a small block, and also more than willing to be flogged. That brings us to the V11: it is obvious that the motor is set up to be revved out, and that is one of the reasons I love it. Even so, the way mine spits and farts and carries on can't be normal, I reckon. I'll keep looking, but when, as you put it, I am certain that everything is right and it still misbehaves at lower revs, then I'll take your advice and ride around it.

That's this again, isn't it?

That would be this, I gather Thanks, that gives me ideas.

I've got feeler gauges. I've been informed via PM that one can use those to measure the gap when the timing chest cover is off. That is probably what I'll do. I've got a gasket for that on the shelf.

Thanks Phil. I've had a look in the workshop manual in the meantime. The gap should be, I quote presumably in millimetre. I don't actually know for sure that my sensor is bad. I bought a new one on spec, because several reliable sources have informed me that the sensor shits itself as a matter of course after a while. The visual indicator is allegedly that the sensor swells in the middle. I'm currently considering all possibilties as to why mine has the coughing and spluttering at constant throttle thing in rather exreme form. "About 2,800 r.p.m." seems to be the common thing. Mine does it, when warm, anywhere between 2,000 and just over 3,000 r.p.m. . I'd really like to know why, and get it sorted.

Having bought a new timing sensor, and read the comment from @guzzler that the clearance from the timing sensor to whatever it looks at is critical, I had a look at the seals that are in there. There is an o-ring and a gasket, apparently. Going by the diagrammes here, there are 7 different gaskets in various thicknesses available. Part no. 17. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/elektrik-zuendung-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020310_300602031032.html I take it that the various gaskets thicknesses have to do with the clearance. Is that the case, how does one measure the clearance, and what is the prescribed clearance? (No, I haven't looked in the workshop manual for a value yet. Maybe someone can save me the trouble... )

Philosiphising? No, spelling error. Philosophising is correct. https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/philosophizing whereby this part of the defintion is particularly relevant. NB: the spelling mistake was the "i" instead of an "o". The "z" doesn't count. That is just US American imprecision.

That is easy to try out. I wouldn't get caught up in philosiphising there. Just suck it and see.

I was provided with these links: https://www.autoteile-markt.de/shop/artikel/impulsgeber-kurbelwelle-facet-9.0032-d1a862c35a20ef761692aff82f023960?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs5fjzLGh_AIVh-93Ch3pew71EAQYASABEgIqrPD_BwE https://www.pkwteile.de/facet/2181912 https://www.autodoc.de/facet/2181912 I ordered the one from the first link because it was the cheapest. I can't say anything at all about the quality or compatibility. Mine hasn't arrived yet, so I am working on hearsay at this point. However, I trust implicitely the person who sent me the links. He used to work in a Guzzi workshop, was perhaps the owner, and knows an awful lot about the 1100 Sport/ Sport 1100/ Daytona/ V11 period of the Guzzi history. EDIT: to put the price in perspective, this is the original Guzzi part: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/phasen-und-umdrehungsfuhler_gu01721600-p-1024014.html?ref=expl ANUVVEREDIT: the links are for suppliers in Germany, which is good for me because that is where I live. Rather than ordering from Germany, I would suggest searching for a supplier for the sensor FACET 9.0032 in your country. I gather it was used in a number of vehicles, and should be able to be found.

That is kind of self-contradicting. The map is a given, assuming the manufacturer is not completely stupid. If the TPS is correct, the ECU is getting the correct data that it needs to implement the (theoretically correct) map correctly, and everything should be sweet. If one assumes that the map is good, which one must to an extent, then irregularities point to something not working the way it should (sensors, bad fuel, leaky rubbers, whatever). As pointed out further up, not only by me, the first thing is to make absolutely sure that all the basic stuff is definitely ok. If that is not done, its a wild goose chase.

yes, I'm in the same boat. My 2002 Le Mans spits and coughs between 2 and 3 thousand rpm at constant throttle when it is warm. I did go through the "decent tune up", but in a hurry. I think I need to go at it again in a relaxed and concentrated manner. Also, I have ordered a new sensor for the motor position. Don't know what it is called in English. The German name is "phasen sensor". I've heard that they give up after a while, and someone provided me with a source for an affordable price, so I will swap it out and see what it brings.

As far as I know, yes, mostly. The pinging might perhaps also have to do with inferior quality fuel. On top of "all the sensors and computer are working correctly" there is making sure that there are no air leaks between the throttle bodies and the cylinder. That could make a good map run lean. The big question is, however, have you done everything in the "decent tune up"? If you haven't made absolutely sure that all the basic stuff is right, you are shooting at a moving target trying to find out what is not right. Edit: bugger, docc was faster. How does he do that?