
audiomick
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Everything posted by audiomick
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Nothing today. The day before yesterday I took it out for a ride. Charge the battery a bit and so on. I thought it was happy to go out, started first time and ran pretty well. After I got back, I left the cover off to let it all cool down and thought to put it on when I went out shopping later on in the day, but forgot. Yesterday I was all set to ride the Breva 750 to work, and put the forgotten cover on the V11 before I (tried to) set off. What do I see? Apparently the entire oil content of the left fork on the ground. Bugger... So I went to start the Breva to go to work. For whatever reason, I hit the button with the throttle wide open. Probably flooded it, I think. It didn't start, and I kept on trying instead of giving it a few minutes to recover. Result: battery is flat. So tomorrow, I wont be doing anything to the V11 (again), but will be taking out the battery from the Breva to put it in the cellar where the charger is, and hoping that I haven't killed it. The fun never stops...
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You've got to watch that, mate. I didn't want to leave the first time I went to Germany, so I went back. And I'm still here nearly 30 years later.
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If you mean a V11 Le Mans from the same period, you are correct in your assumption. The drive-trains are, as far as I know, identical. If you want to compare part numbers, there are parts lists available here. You need to scroll down a bit to get to the V11 section. The list is in French, but it isn't hard to figure out what is meant. https://guzzitek.org/f/parts_list_f.htm#gb PS: there are workshop manuals elsewhere on the same site, if that is of any interest to you.
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@Klaus756 do some research into how the Lomax was built https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lomax_(kit_car) It was based on the Citroen 2CV, front wheel drive, and used the 2CV motor, gearbox and front axles. There are a number of them getting around with Guzzi motors in them, so it is apparently possible to fit the Guzzi motor to the Citroen gearbox somehow. That might be a blind alley for your purposes, but it might be new direction of thought. PS: the "reverse trike" was popular for a while in the UK because, I gather, of a loophole in the Road Tax laws.
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German, actually. Look here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deutsches_Institut_für_Normung Pertinant is this There is a DIN standard for everything, it seems. And it seems that the DIN standard has been taken over as a European standard for nearly everything. A4 Paper, for instance, is a DIN standard. The annoying thing is, although it is a "non-profit organisation", if you go looking for a DIN standard in the Interweb, all you ever find is a site where you can buy a copy of the DIN standard for a price that cannot be considered cheap.
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I beg to differ: from memory, I don't believe I could have got the ignition switch on my Le Mans off (and we are talking about a Le Mans in this thread) without removing the fairing. Thinking about it very carefully now only confirms the memory. Anyway, @dbarb3 pay attentionto those fuses. They can, perhaps, give up due to old age, but they generally don't blow for no reason. If they blow again soon, you need to go looking for the cause.
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A new front tyre might not be a bad idea as well...
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For posterity, this one, I reckon. https://hmb-moto.de/Brake-lever-foot-V11-CNC I'm always happy to do a bit of advertising for Mike at HMB. He is very dedicated, and does good work.
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Did you mean "fuel economy" there, perhaps?
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I haven't done it yet (no not that, playing with the map...) but I've read a lot about it, and spoken to Beard, author of Guzzidiag, about it. You need Tunerpro only if you want to alter your map. Reading it out is done with IAW reader, and flashing a new map is done with IAW writer. What you didn't mention: make really sure your battery is good, particularly when writing. Better still, connect a charger. Also make sure your laptop will last the distance. Better still, use the power supply. If something (bike or computer) runs out of power whilst writing, you risk turning your ECU into an attractive paper weight.
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Failing that, here is a compilation workshop manual. There are circuit diagrammes on page 364, 459 and 590. The trick is to figure out which one applies to your bike. https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf One clue might be the 8th. fuse. The document indicates that this fuse was used on earlier models, but not on the later ones. My 2002 Le Mans didn't use it (a previous owner used the slot for a power outlet in the dash), but I have the fuel pump in the tank.
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You did screw out all the screws and everything to make sure the butterfly was really completey closed? Just asking, because that sounds about like what I saw before someone reminded me to completely screw out the fiddly and hard to reach throttle stop screw.
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What about Cuno the killer carp? My girlfriend is convinced he is just waiting to nibble her toes off.
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That would seem to be the circuit diagram for the models including and after 2003. Page 154 here: https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11LM_Nak_RC_Cat_2003_122002_PL.pdf The diagramme indicates a square blinker can. Mine is round, a "classic" blinker can, and seems to be more like the picture here on page 59 https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11LM_2002_062011_PL(GB).pdf or here on page 141 https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11LM_2002_072002_PL.pdf either way, as is indicated in both diagrammes, it must be somewhere near the relays. The cable harness doesn't allow it to be anywhere else, as far as I can tell.
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Ok, these images will be appreciated. Down 5 flights of stairs, unpack the bike in the cold and drizzle, take the photos with the aid of a torch, back up the stairs. I'm expecting an elefant stamp here.... My 2002 V11 Le Mans. Here is a "close up". The blinker can is in the scruffy looking rubber boot behind the relays, tucked in under the bodywork. I don't know for sure that this is the original position, as it is just cable-tied onto the frame rail there. On the other hand, the cable harness would not allow it to have been very far from that position. It is just long enough to get there. And here is another picture from a bit further back to put it into perspective Hope that helps.
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From the album: audiomick
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I think it might be tucked in under the bodywork next to the relays. Vague memories popping up...
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Difficult in the sense of "measure" and "before I take it out"...
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Or buy a decent tap and die set. Everyone should have one of those, I reckon, and there is generally a set of thread gauges included.
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I reckon that is just because the photo was taken from above with a relatively wide-angle lens.