audiomick

I just found a new one. Still finding them periodically, even after nearly 30 years here. Souper ... supper. The word occurs in the Opera "The Rosenkavalier", and I just looked it up to see if it was a "real" German word. The libretto features a lot of "Vienna dialect", some of which may have been invented by the author. Anyway, Souper is a real word, means "a festive evening meal", and is oviously the origin of "supper".

I don't think so. I have to say, I'm guessing a bit, but it makes sense to me. I believe the shield is there to reflect the light that would go "straight out" back in to the reflector at the back of the lamp, and distribute it more evenly across the lens at the front of the lamp. If the shield wasn't there, there would be a very bright point in the middle of the lamp. This would be, on the one hand, a "waste" of light energy that could be better distributed across the whole lens (as with the shield...), and on the other hand a great disturbance to traffic coming from the other direction. Whether the LED lamp needs that depends, I think, on how the light element is constructed. If the LEDs don't light forwards, and I believe they mostly don't, then the shield may not be really neccessary. However, if the LED light source doesn't light forwards at all, and most of the pictures I have seen indicate that this is the case, then the shield wont make any difference, and taking it out would also not be really neccessary, unless the LED element were too long to fit underneath it.

I had him in my mind as a Strat player. His sound is mostly "typical Strat", bearing in mind that he uses his fingers rather than a pick. Having said that, the intro to "Money for nothing" does sound more like something with a glued-in neck, and the video shows him playing a Les Paul. Looking at the pictures here, it seems that he does swap around a bit, but more Strat than anything else, if the selection of pictures is any indication. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Knopfler

The thing with the keyboard is probably the only way to get a burnout happening on that chook chaser.

Indeed. Also: water, father, mother, forlorn, astounding, butter, and wiener schnitzel, amongst many others.

Yes. German is a good language. Very precise, very flexible, and the long words come about because there are no gaps left between adjectives and the noun. For instance, "racing motorcyle" is not "renn Motorrad" but rather "Rennmotorrad". And for the puposes of that video, they should have taken a variety of Languages, and not 5 with common linguistic roots, and one with a whole different background. Incidentally, an amazing amount of English goes back to German. So there...

Yes, he does exploit the sound possibilities of a Stratocaster rather well.

Yes, I feel pretty much the same. I believe Steve Vai played on some Frank Zappa albums, and was listed in the credits as "stunt guitar". That comes pretty close...

Yes, well done. Also a "party trick" at the end of the day, but difficult. But no one ever said that Steve Vai couldn't play guitar.

I can attest to the perfect seat. I bought a system from this company about 15 years ago: https://www.hearsafe.de/ It included the moulds, a set of drivers for listening to music (intended for in-ear monitoring on stage), and two different sets of filters, all of which can be fitted alternately in the moulds. On set of filters provides very little noise protection ( 7 dB) but "catches" short, sharp noises like when someone starts hammering on a bit of truss just behind you. The other set of filters provids 15 dB of protection, and is "flat" enough that I can mix a band with them in. The drivers for listening to music don't fit under a helmet, but that doesn't bother me too much. Like many others, I don't want to hear music whilst riding, and I don't listen to what the navigation device says, I only look at it. The point is, the moulds are really very comfortable. I can wear mine for six or eight hours constantly, and they never get uncomfortable. The problem is more that one forgets to take them out. A note on the side: mine are probably too old by now. The ear canal changes a bit over the years, and one is recommended to have the moulds re-done after a number of years. Mine still work well, though, so I'm not planning on having them re-done yet. Getting the mould done is no big deal. The man cleaned out my ears with a cotton bud, and squeezed some sort of silicon stuff in there. A bit weird for a couple of minutes, and then it was all over. Difficult, because wind noise is not "a frequency", but very broad band. More lows than highs, but everything. The various filters they offer may have different frequency "responses", but they will most likely be principally more or less damping. but... that's ok. Firstly, protecting your ears is the main thing. Less noise in means less damage. Secondly, if the general noise level is lower, you can hear what is going on better. I didn't read about that, that is my experience. If you have good earplugs in, your hearing system isn't "screwed down" to protect itself (yes, that happens. There are muscles in your ears that tense up in loud conditions to "tighten" the ear drums and thereby protect the hearing mechanism in the inner ear ...), and can sort out what it is hearing better. The frequency curve of the filters is relevant. If too much of the high frequencies is damped out (read: cheap filters), you wont hear things like valve clearance ticking or destructive engine noise, but if the frequency curve is flat, you will be able to hear everthing better than if it were all too loud.

It's a wide open door, but maybe better not to go there...

For what it is worth, it looks bit like it might be possible to buy the hydraulic pre-load adjuster as an accessory part, i.e. buy it and retro fit it, or in your case (maybe) put it back on: https://www.wilbers.de/en/products/shock-absorbers/optionsaccessories/hyd-preload-adjuster/hydraulic-spring-preload-type-625.html However, as has been said, if you're planning on selling, let the new owner worry about it.

Silly bugger acrobatics, but well done. My respect for the one who figured out who plays what on which strings.

Not silly at all. There is not enough of that positive stuff in the world. And yes, the forum is fantastic. I'm glad I found it.

I believe something similar went through in Victoria, Australia (i.e. Melbourne) some years ago. @Lucky Phil or @guzzler, am I right there? When I was still living there, it wasn't legal, but was tolerated to a great extent. I know I did it all the time. In Leipzig it is a little more difficult. The streets are a bit narrower, and sometimes there just isn't room. And there are drivers who, if they see you coming, will edge over to block you off. Never had that in Melbourne. Bloody Germans...

I actually have no idea how well the riders get on with each other, but I can't agree with that opinion. Friendship definitely does not exclude intense rivalry. Just go for a ride with a couple of good mates on a good bit of road, and observe what happens. Rivalry without a friendly basis, or at least mutual respect, only leads to nasty incidents on the field of competition. EDIT: I just looked him up. The bloke is not even 20 years old, and Spanish. He's probably still half-drunk on his own testosterone. Anuvveredit: apart from that, those blokes are doing somethng that nobody else can even remotely fully understand, except for other people who are doing the same thing. Of course they buddy up to each other.

I might have been taking the piss there just a little bit. Baklava is pretty close to my favourite accompaniment to a cup of coffee.

Balaclavas taste great, and baklavas make you look like you're about to rob a bank. I think....

Did you check both filaments with a multi-meter? I've had a number of bulbs for various lights that looked fine, but weren't.

Ahhh, first loser then.

Indeed, but still on the other side of the country. I had a search a while back, and immediately found at least three luthiers in Leipzig, one of which who specialises in electric guitars. No idea how good they, but if I wanted to start looking, I could start here. However, as you say, good guitars cost a fortune, and I can't even play very well, so I'm not looking. Deliberately. If I did even think about looking, things might get very expensive very quickly.

I reckon there might be a couple of things happening there. Firstly, have you got a workshop manual? There is one here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf On page 457 there is a listing of the fuses, and two pages later a wiring diagram. But have a good look at it yourself. The document is a compilation of several versions of the workshop manual, and you should make sure you are looking at the section that refers to your bike. Anyway.... The "click, click, click, start" is well known. Mine does that. Starts mostly, but often enough the first couple of presses on the button just produce a click. I cleaned up the electrics a bit, and it got better, but it is still there. The basic problem there is that too many volts are getting lost between the battery and the starter solenoid. There doesn't need to be anything specifically broken. It can be just a cumulation of slightly dodgy connections. The other one, no fuel pump prime and nothing, sounds like a different problem to me. Hard to say what it is, maybe "just" an intermittent connection somewhere, maybe something really broken. So... have a good look at the circuit diagram, so you have an idea how it all works. The relays are really important. Most of the important things, crucial to the bike running, involve a relay somehow. Then... go through and check and clean all of the electrical connections. Ok, that is a fair swag of things to look at. Start with the strap between the negative battery terminal and the back of the gearbox. That is your main "earth" connection. As far as the fuses go, dont just check the fuses. The fuse holders (and the relay sockets) are a plastic block that accepts a female spade connector with a barb on it to hold it in place. These connectors are the socket that the fuse or relay sits in. One can get the connectors out by going in from the fuse / relay side with a very small flat bladed screwdriver to depress the barb, and pulling the connector out to the rear side. Electrical contact cleaner might be enough to clean things up without actually pulling the connectors out. To sum it up: have a good look at as much of the electrical system as you can. As I already wrote, it sounds to me like you might have a couple of things happening there, not just one.

Yes. That is the "growth" that the economists are always raving on about.