audiomick

Based in Austria, and owned by Red Bull. In case anyone is interested.

Smarty pants. Avon is another one who states "recommended rim width" and such. For instance here (not a recommendation for the tyre, just for the information!!). The 160/60 17 is listed with 4.5" as the recommended rim. (scroll down to the bottom half of the page to see the table...) https://www.avontyres.com/de-de/reifen/3d-supersport?searchtype=tire&cartype=motorcycle

They're getting wider the older I get... I've often considered doing that. Good to see someone else mention it. Maybe I'll give it a go.

I haven't seen Phil's solution, but what he describes is a common mod, not only for V11s. Often the purpose is simply to reduce the load on the lighting switch etc. . In the case of the V11, the function of the regulator is also involved. Leave everything as it is, EXCEPT the wire that in the original wiring supplies current to the lights is pulled off the light socket and used instead to switch an additional relay. This relay in turn supplies current direct from the battery to the lights in place of the wire you pulled off to switch the relay. Don't forget to put a fuse in somewhere along the way. As Phil already pointed out, this means that the original wiring for the lights is no longer loaded down by the drain from the lights, but rather is only switching the new relay. Given that the circuit is no longer loaded down to any great extent, the regulator sees much closer to battery voltage at the point in the lighting circuit where it is measuring, and accordingly regulates the charging current much closer to what it should ideally be. Additional advantages include that the working current for the lights is no longer going throught the light switch, which makes the switche's life a lot easier.

Not much. There is a hose that attaches to the top of the frame just behind the steering head and vents into the airbox, so the whole breather system is open to the outside in the end. There are surges in there no doubt, but I can't imagine that the absolute pressure in the system is at any time all that far away from ambient atmospheric pressure.

I did mine a couple of months ago. Actually changing the hose is in fact not that hard. A bit of a fiddle due to the bends near the ends, but not hard. You just can't see what you're doing all that well. The tedious part is dismantling the bike far enough to get to the hose. @cowtownchemist you have your tank off already, so the worst of it is done. Getting to that stage on a Le Mans also means having the fairing off. If I remember rightly, it is also a help to take the airbox out. So, as mentioned, actually changing the hose isn't really the problem, but rather the buggerising around to get to the point where you can access the hose.

That looks like the bike described here. According to the text there, that would have been a Cagiva Elefant in other markets than the US. https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/ducati/ducati_elefant_900c 94.html EDIT: here, from the same site. Looks to be the same bike, but painted and labelled as a Cagiva. https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/cagiva/cagiva_elefant_900c 94.htm

Have a look in the Gallery at Phil's gallery. There are a number of pictures of the bike there with those wheels on. The wheels alone: EDIT: PS: don't get your hopes up. I went looking after Phil got his wheels, and have the distinct impression that he might have got a hold of one of the last sets available.

I'll take the liberty of linking to a video that Paul Minnaert linked to in the german forum. It is a screen-video showing Guzzidiag running on a Breva 750, i.e. a 15RC ECU. Paul wrote that it goes into closed loop at 3:14. I have to say, I can't see the exact moment, but a bit after 3:00 one can see the temperature approaching 60° C, and that the Lambda integrator and Lambda values change. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUOtoYCifN4 As I understand it, from the 15 RC on, that is how the system behaves. 15M and before (without a Lambda sensor), as already mentioned, don't have an open loop/ closed loop function.

Supposed to be 0,6 mm according to the workshop book. Page 9 here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/V35V50V65_041983_Atelier(GB).pdf Is that what you had them set to?

Is balance not an issue?

According to the workshop manual, it should be PHBH 30. Page 30 https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/V35V50V65_041983_Atelier(GB).pdf

Or better yet, here: https://gpiu.de/forum/ That is a German language forum run by Martin Hagemann. This is his home page https://gpiu.de/ Martin is the recognised expert for the "small block" Guzzis in Germany. His English is not brilliant, but there have been a couple of queries in English on the forum, and he manages. And I look in there pretty much every day, so if there are problems in translation, I could help.

I've started thinking about the carburettors. Did you have them off completely when you changed the head gaskets? I could imagine it might be possible to take the heads off without removing the carburettors, but it would be more trouble than it is worth, I think. So: the carburettors were most likely shaken up a bit, and maybe lay on the bench for a while on their sides or something. Maybe some gunk out of the float bowls found its way into a passage somewhere, or maybe the needle valves aren't closing properly anymore (because of gunk on the seat...). Are you absolutely sure that the throttle cables and choke cables are correctly connected, have enough play in them, and operate correctly? Incidentally, how do the seals on the choke pistons look? I can't see them causing your problem, but they get old and don't seal properly. I've even had one instance where the choke piston were out, and didn't seal properly when they went back in, even though the rubber disks that make the seal were not all that bad. Havin said that, when the chokes aren't sealing right you tend to have problems getting a stable idle rather than the bike not starting at all. Going by your description, I'd more likely suspect the needle valves not sealing properly and therefore the carbs flooding, or something in that direction. EDIT: don't forget to check the filter behind the banjo fitting that the fuel line is connected to. They clog up sometimes, but once again, I would expect bad running and not revving out properly more than not starting at all.

Yeah, you need room for the shoes, don't you...

Yes.

What sort of a maniac rides a thing like that through the bush? Oh, wait, he's Australian....

Ok, so if that is all in good working order, correctly set up, and clean, it should just work. Given that the bike was running, as I understand it, before the head gaskets were done, I think one can assume that the system is basically ok. You mentioned in the first post that the "plopping, wants to start" stopped when you changed the plug leads, if I understood the post correctly. I can't see any reason why the pickups would have "slipped" during changing the head gaskets. Did you even have the front cover off? Maybe to get to the Allen head screw through the alternator to turn the motor over whilst checking the valve clearances? If it was off, have a look in there again to make sure the wiring still looks ok. More likely: you would have had the tank off to do the heads, I expect. The coils are under there, aren't they? Have a good look there as well, in case there is a wire off somewhere. Although you did mention in the first post that there is spark on both sides. A very silly thought just went through my head: you have checked the kill switch, that it isn't switched off? The way I've wired mine (with Silent Hektik ignition), the kill switch switches the +12V to the coils off, so it wont spark if the switch is off. I can't actually imagine how yours could spark with the kill switch off, but I'll let the question stand... Another thing: you mentioned have set the static timing Hopefully you mean "+7°", i.e. 7° before TDC rather than +/- 7°. You set that for the right cylinder. The workshop manual says to set the static timing for the left cylinder first, but that is for points. Page 124 ff. https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/V35V50V65_041983_Atelier(GB).pdf The instructions for my Silent Hektik, on the contrary, say to start with the right cylinder: https://www.silent-hektik.de/MG_PB5FH_39.pdf Do you have set-up instructions for your system? On what basis did you set the static timing on the right cylinder? Don't know for sure if that is really a potential source of error or not. I'm just trying to think of anything that might have slipped through the net.

That link apparently doesn't work unless one is registered with spotify.

The thing tie-wrapped to the frame looks like a blinker relay to me, and the "what is this for" looks like it *might* be where the blinker relay was originally mounted. The "what is this for" looks like a rubber shock mount for something. Such things are often used to contain a blinker relay. Sorry I can't help with the wiring questions.

No links, just a list. The music is well known, and should be easy for anyone to find. And I can't be buggered looking for the links at this time of night... Today, for the first time in a very long time, I actually sat down and listened to some music*. A couple of days ago "Joe's Garage" popped up in my head. I had actually only listened to all three acts once, and that about 35 years ago. The song itself, well, I can sing along for most of it. So I listened to the whole thing today. And then "Electric Ladyland" And then "Abbey Road". Seemed like a logical sequence to me. *Edit: In my free time, rather than at work. Listening to music is part of my job.

My opinion, based on my V35, which is basically the same in the pertinent points First question: no. The timing sits on the end of the camshaft, assuming it still has the original contact breakers. In the first post, an electronic ignition was mentioned. Where does it get its timing from? Is it on the end of the camshaft? Does it still use the mechanical advance mechanism, and if so, is that clean and properly lubricated? Second question: an electronic ignition was mentioned, so probably no points. Third question: what sort of sensor does the ignition have? If it is a "Lichtschranke" (what the hell is that called in english?), i.e. a thing that works with a light beam that is interrupted by something to show the pulse, is the sensor clean? EDIT: incidentally: The flywheel on the small block models can be installed in three different orientations, 120° apart. Obviously, only one is right. That the timing marks don't line up is far too common to be funny.

You should be able to find something that fits in the existing thread, or is there no mounting point on your bike?