audiomick

Assuming there is nothing like a Power Commander involved, i.e. the re-map was really just that in the ECU, do you have a copy of the original map? If not, I'm quite sure one could be found in the Guzzidiag "experts community" here in Germany. Or maybe someone here can read out the map on his bike and send it to you. I'd offer to do that, but I don't know for sure that mine is original, and mine is not running all that well anyway. It's got the "cough and splutter at 2,800 r.p.m." syndrom, and I haven't figured out exactly why yet. Anyway... The thought is, read out and save the new map. Re-install the original map, and see how that runs. Put the new one back in, and see if the pinging is worse than with the original map.

I'm not sure about the hollow axle, but that sounds like the forks on my 2002 Le Mans. Long tank, no chin-pad. Crinkly (flaky) engine paint, long frame.

Yes, no doubt. I recall reading here that someone had fabricated a hose using straight, oil-resistant rubber hosing and copper elbows from the plumbing supplies department. Sounds very plausible and possible to me. PS: it just occurred to me that I have bent copper tubing myself once upon a time. Don't know what for anymore, but the tool is still in my workshop somewhere. It is just a long spring that goes aroung the outside of the copper pipe to stop it from collapsing in the bend. Has to be the right size, of course. I'm pretty sure I found it in the hardware store. That tool and precisely applied brute force, and one should be able to bend the elbows to exactly what one needs.

I had another look at Stein-Dinse and found the part(s) that I remembered finding last year. One for just over 70 Euros, and one really cheap. I found them in the parts list for a V10 Centauro. They weren't linked in the V11 parts lists at Stein-Dinse that I looked at. I think someone sent me a link when I bought mine last year. Anyway, here it is... https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/search.html?grp=&searchStr=30157400 The expensive one is probably original, the cheap on has a Z on the end of the part number, and is therefore definitely from a third party supplier. The Z in Stein-Dinse numbers always indicates that. The cheap one is apparently in stock. The original is listed with a delivery time of up to 8 weeks. It is of course up to the individual concerned, which part he or she chooses. I bought the expensive one on the strength of advice from a very well informed source here. He reckons the more expensive original part will last longer. Time will tell.

Yeah, that's what you get with a combination of tropical climate, high population density and slack emissions laws. As far as the bike show goes, amazing how much effort can go into doing something that is essentially a bit silly. Yes, a lot of skill is required. But it is still a bit silly.

If the frame is still part of the breather system as it was originally intended, then I agree with you. That would most likely need to vent. I have read stuff on numerous occasions regarding the same situation on various different Guzzis, and seen the solution in practice a couple of times, i.e. no airbox, so where do I vent the breather to? The commonest solution seems to be to put a longish hose on the connecter, and just stick the other end into an empty Jim Beam and Cola can, or some similar container, to catch any drips that might happen. Check the can occasionally to see how much is coming out that way (should be practically nothing) and empty it if required.

@p6xI don't know how much help it is to you, but the company that is most often recommended here is "Casa di Moto". https://www.casadimoto.com/service/ I have not had to do with them (yet...), but I have read lots of positive comments and none which were negative. I have no idea if they speak English (or French...).

Yep. It's a bugger to get at, the bike has to be mostly naked, but a fairly cheap and undramatic fix. This is the part. I couldn't find it at Stein Dinse, although I thought I bought mine there last year. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/oelschlauch-entlueftung-dick_gu30157400-p-1009234.html?ref=expl When you do your "tank-off maintenance", it's worth considering changing that out on spec. As I said, it is a bugger to get to. The tube gets old and hard, and splits eventually. That looks like your pictures, or if it is the other end (as mine was) like a leaking output shaft seal on the motor. Whilst you're in there, if in any doubt at all about it's integrity, replace it, even if it is not the cause of your current leak.

Yes, of course. I haven't done any measurements yet, so I don't know exactly how much the voltage drops during the starting process. I don't think it is that drastic, as the bike starts easily. What I don't know is how much voltage has to be there for the Guzzidiag connection to stay up. Having said that, checking the connections is on the plan. The bike was barely ridden during the last ten years before I bought it, and I haven't had a close look at the electrics yet, other than adding a more direct line from the battery to the relais that supplies the solenoid on the starter.

As far as that goes, I read something to the same effect in the German forum. It was regarding a Nevada 750, and I had problems connecting the Breva 750 (same motor and ECU...). The problem was, I could connect to the Breva following the Guzzidiag prompts for "ignition on" etc., but when I started the motor, the connection broke off. Following reading the suggestion to start the motor first, I thought about it a bit, and decided to try "start motor" at the point where Guzzidiag says "ignition on". That worked. That means: connect everything up. Start Guzzidiag. Select "connect" ("verbinden") from the menu. You get a pop-up that says "turn on ignition" or something to that effect. Rather than just turning on the ignition at that point, start the motor and then click on "OK". That worked with the Breva. I expect fully that it would work with a V11 that has the same problem (connection breaks off when the motor is started), but can't check that because the connection with my V11 works without any problems. And if this problem shows up, and this solution works, spare a thought as to why the voltage drops during starting enough to break the connection. I haven't sorted that with the Breva yet, but I reckon there is something fishy there...

Yeah, Germans don't always speak (write) English as well as they think they do. This would be it, I reckon: https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/moto-guzzi-verschlussschraube-gabelbruecke-8x30-california/item-2-1117543-30513401-.html The word "Verschlußschraube" means "plug screw" or "the screw on the end that closes the hole". "End cap" would probably be a good translation. Thanks for the tip. I might just organise one of those for myself.

Just for the sake of showing off, I've got a set of these: https://www.boehm-synchrontester.de/ I don't expect that they are available in the USA, but who knows. They're fiddly, because one has to adjust the damping on them for the best compromise between "open enough to measure realistically" and "closed enough to stop them oscillating madly". Despite that, I really like using them. Probably because it's fiddly, and you feel like you're being really professional. And they're just pretty.

Well, we should. Some people I know don't seem to be right on it though... I'm glad you're happy with the Quota, and hope it continues to be a source of pleasure.

It's stated in the name: TeDiuM. For the boring, everyday thing I bought a Breva 750 ie.

Translation: raspberry pi: a very cheap computer platform with which one who is in the know (i.e. not me...) can construct useful things. hifiberry DAC: a sound card for the aforementioned computer platform. NAD 306: a relatively good, if a little old, hi-fi amplifier Bose Acoustimass: a loudspeaker system from Bose. Works well enough for "sound in the air", but not what I would choose for analytic listening. In "professional circles" I once heard the line "no highs, no lows, must be Bose", but I try not to be predjudiced. But some people still play his music.

Along with just about every bike that was brought onto the market after about 1985, maybe even earlier.

Great. I hope it fulfills your expectations, and doesn't require more work than you are readily prepared to invest.

Randy, that is a really nice photo.

Coathanger weather where she is, I think.

Till the rubber cracks. No, seriously, assuming they are in good nick and not old and hard, just until the rubber starts to show the very first signs of bulging out from under the clamp. If they are old and hard, they need to be replaced.

Lucky boy. Mine has only the standard pitches. Why that is relevant: I buggered up the thread for the left mirror on my V35 Imola by running a tap down it and not stopping to think why it was hard work. When I had a closer look at the mirror, I realised it was fine pitch. Fortunately the mirror still screws in and holds, but suchlike is a little annoying.

No, as far as I know, the standard pitch for M6 is 1.0. The 1.25 pitch is M8 (and M9, but who uses that?). To back that up, look here (look for "Steigung"= thread pitch) : https://www.anzugsmoment.de/gewindesteigung/ https://www.gewinde-normen.de/iso-regelgewinde.html https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metrisches_ISO-Gewinde PS: there are also standards (norms) for "Feingewinde", i.e fine pitch. A quick search indicates that "Grobgewinde" (=coarse pitch) also exists, but that seems to be for things like screws for plasterboard. PPS: "Regelgewinde" means "standard thread" or "thread according to the norm".

It seems the thread starter has found a solution. In case anyone else stumble across this: yes, the screws holding my Le Mans fairing together are all standard pitch, and I believe they are all M6

I see the title of the thread has changed. @p6x Did you buy it?

Do you mean this ad by any chance? https://www.ebay.de/itm/176128295514?hash=item290210825a:g:OdAAAOSwNIZkF8rp&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8AwZlpW%2BYazOq6a%2F2TLrAwQglkMgom7EGX1QHsI1sznZygK3JkpPJqmdiOPNsX2DNbvCPwTyVCJ2zZhq6Ci5pE4IPXXe1ChEQTGPwwGJ67cPD1pSFGGicroYWKqgvHl%2BtyUC%2FTrQZZ4wdmUwNU%2FlI6qlcWrBVVOO2P2xSL0L%2B8QSVx%2F4POMcuyOghMP8CEk0Cdqy%2BbPBfdUe7riYbSQgFmFrFWJgFTIcUBCE18RBAckR0umge8gE0nCXQBml%2F56R3AgdSzElH4wm6G%2BJu%2FFEeq2MCGSCXDlm0r%2FZWifoOTGLSH%2FS8iZsEGr3LDpWtBO3kg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-LFwceuYw It says "Made in USA" on the relay in the pictures, but the listed location of the goods (Standort) is Shenzhen, China. Nevertheless, I dare say they would work.