audiomick

Thanks, Phil. That's the sort of information I am always looking for. I do tend to stick to the specification in the manual, not only for oil, but like to know the background and what potentially might happen if one deviates from the spec. .

Ok, overkill. I hear what you're saying, but I'm interested in knowing if it is bad for the motor in any way. Going by what you have said, regular oil changes are important. Are there any other disadvantages apart from the cost of th oil? Regarding stressed valve gear, that is an issue with the small block motors too. The 2 valve motors aren't that critical. Particularly the Breva 750 is not particularly affected, as the later models had single valve springs that didn't give the valves such a hard time. The earlier ones, like the V35 II motor in the Imola, had double valve springs that were too hard, and the valve gear is highly stressed as a result. They need a fairly high viscosity oil. Particularly the 4-valve small blocks had chronic valve problems. My Imola has a 2 valve motor, but I have most of a 4-valve motor sitting on the shelf, and maybe one day I will put it together and bolt it into the Imola.

What's one of them when it is at home?

Lubricating, cooling a bit, making a mess of the workshop floor? I dunno, do tell. EDIT: docc posted whilst I was writing. I hate it when he is quicker than me.

Thanks, Phil. The "climate, usage and operating temperature" is something I am trying to factor in to the equation. I ride all of the bikes all year. That means up to about 32°C in summer, and down to 0°C in winter, or maybe a bit below if I don't pay attention to the weather forecast. Lots of short trips in the city with the V35 Imola and the Breva 750. I try and avoid too much of that with the V11. I figure the 10W60 should cover that in all three of them.

I want that exhaust! Beautiful. Handmade titanium. As far as the seals go, try this or something like it. https://www.mathy.de/shop/en/MATHY-DropStop-Sealing-Additive/1311 Basically, it is concentrated plasticisers that you tip into the oil. It wont, of course, repair a seal that is actually damaged, but it allegedly makes hardened seals pliable again. There are a number of such products on the market. I tipped that into the Breva 750 I bought last year. It had only done about 800 km in the previous 10 years. The chemical cure costs a few bucks, but I figured it was worth a try. As it turns out, it looks like the Breva has done the seal on the input side of the gearbox, but everything else seems to be ok. I've put more than 2,000 km on the bike since I bought it.

Yep, understand that completely. @GuzziMoto thank you very much for that answer. Very good to know. I have another question that I have been trying to get a straight up answer to for a while: as far as I can tell from everything I have read, it is ok to "extend" the viscosity range, both above and below, that the factory specified. For instance, for the older small block motors, 20W40 was specified for the motor. The spec for later versions became at some point 10W60. My impression is, I could run the 10W60 that my Breva 750 is supposed to get also in my V35 Imola. Am I right, or not? If not, why not? One restraint about "extending" the viscosity range: apparantly if the oil in the gearbox or final drive is too far towards heavy, it can run too warm. A very well informed ex-guzzi mechanic recently posted a photo elsewhere showing how the grease in the needle roller bearing in the outer side of the final drive of a V11 had melted because the oil in the final drive was very heavy, and an extended "spirited" ride had caused it all to get a bit warm.

Don't forget: if is not broken, don't fix it.

If you don't give it too much of a caning, it probably wont. Seriously, though, what theoretically happens to the viscosity when one mixes weights like that? Do you now, theoretically, have 0W40 in the motor, or 10W20, or chicken soup? Just asking for the sake of knowing. Whilst we are on the topic, more or less, I find it difficult to get straight answers to those sort of questions. People are willing to say "use only good oil", or "stick to the manufacturers recommendation", but don`t seem all that willing to make statements about what the "window" is, and why. I'm happy to stick to what is in the manual, and buy quality products, but I would like to know why over and above "because the manufacturer specified that".

I know I am.

Yes, although some might use a hyphen in there: re-torquing

A thought has been bothering me all evening. I really don't know if it is relevant, but it wont leave me alone. The 30A fuse is between the regulator/rectifier and the battery. Some types of load suck power, as much as the source can supply. Lower voltage for a given power figure means higher currents. We've already established that higher current across a resistance causes more warmth generation. So what if the regulator (or the alternator) is not providing enough volts (some previous posts indicate that this might be the case) and the battery is pulling more current to try and get charged? As far as I know, batteries are one of the types of load that do that. Over and above the question about the quality of the regulator/rectifier, are you sure that the battery is good?

You're game, mate. No way I'd put my bike out there. Might have done once upon a time when I was young and foolish, but dealing with heights has gotten and is getting worse with the years. Nice photo, though.

That's about where I am too, and yes, I find the Le Mans fairing very effective. Incidentally, also the one on the V35 Imola / V50 Monza. Doesn't look like much (apart from very pretty...) but works surprisingly well. I guess that is what you get from the factory having started playing with a wind tunnel in 1950.

I can understand that. I like mine quite a lot. Also very pretty is this, maybe an option http://www.magni.it/v11_fairing.htm

I think that is what this really means...

Isn't there a topic here somewhere about the clutch slave cylinder?

Nitpicking: you can adjust the linkage, but you have to pull one of the ends off to do it. Pain in the arse. A left-hand thread on one end would be much better. Why didn't Luigi build it that way in the first place?

Have you got Guzzidiag? Connect it up, and have a look at the CO trim. I've read about some rather extreme settings. I was able to watch a couple of experts set up a V11. They started with a CO trim of -10, and tried out steps of plus and minus 10 to get the best result. The test was how the motor responded to throttle from idle, i.e. exactly the range that you are talking about. Give it a try, it might help.

That is a fundament of the Australian character, docc. One lets the deed speak for itself. The bike is truly stunning. The only thing I would have different is this fairing, which I think is absolutely beautiful http://www.magni.it/images/v11_3-4.jpg http://www.magni.it/v11_fairing.htm the rest is ok as it is. EDIT: here's a better photo of the fairing. The bike is for sale in Germany. 70,000 km on the clock.

Yeah, it'll do.

Welcom to the forum, and to the world of proper motorbikes for real blokes. Or something like that. PS: check your profile. You've got a "V&III Racer" according to the "My Bikes" bit. Looks a lot like "let go of the upper case button too late" to me.

That'd be "collateral benefit" then, wouldn't it? That vise looks like a handy piece of kit. Well scored.

Jealous...

I'm guessing, but... I went looking for pictures because I remember the anvil that my father had on the farm in my childhood had similar holes in it. Turns out, the holes have names Gerald G, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anvil#Structure I think the square one in your anvil may, perhaps, be a "Hardy hole" intended indeed as a mounting hole for "Hardy tools". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardy_tool Perhaps the manufacturer of the vise offered accessory tools that could be mounted in the hole. Seems plausible to me. EDIT: I found what seems to be cofirmation of my bold theory. Someone asked the same question about the hole here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/8mzd5a/question_about_a_columbian_c44_vise/?rdt=46355 and was directed to here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/the-vises-of-garage-journal.44782/post-2383317 where there is a copy of a catalogue page showing the accessory.