audiomick

Nitpicking: you can adjust the linkage, but you have to pull one of the ends off to do it. Pain in the arse. A left-hand thread on one end would be much better. Why didn't Luigi build it that way in the first place?

Have you got Guzzidiag? Connect it up, and have a look at the CO trim. I've read about some rather extreme settings. I was able to watch a couple of experts set up a V11. They started with a CO trim of -10, and tried out steps of plus and minus 10 to get the best result. The test was how the motor responded to throttle from idle, i.e. exactly the range that you are talking about. Give it a try, it might help.

That is a fundament of the Australian character, docc. One lets the deed speak for itself. The bike is truly stunning. The only thing I would have different is this fairing, which I think is absolutely beautiful http://www.magni.it/images/v11_3-4.jpg http://www.magni.it/v11_fairing.htm the rest is ok as it is. EDIT: here's a better photo of the fairing. The bike is for sale in Germany. 70,000 km on the clock.

Yeah, it'll do.

Welcom to the forum, and to the world of proper motorbikes for real blokes. Or something like that. PS: check your profile. You've got a "V&III Racer" according to the "My Bikes" bit. Looks a lot like "let go of the upper case button too late" to me.

That'd be "collateral benefit" then, wouldn't it? That vise looks like a handy piece of kit. Well scored.

Jealous...

I'm guessing, but... I went looking for pictures because I remember the anvil that my father had on the farm in my childhood had similar holes in it. Turns out, the holes have names Gerald G, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anvil#Structure I think the square one in your anvil may, perhaps, be a "Hardy hole" intended indeed as a mounting hole for "Hardy tools". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardy_tool Perhaps the manufacturer of the vise offered accessory tools that could be mounted in the hole. Seems plausible to me. EDIT: I found what seems to be cofirmation of my bold theory. Someone asked the same question about the hole here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/8mzd5a/question_about_a_columbian_c44_vise/?rdt=46355 and was directed to here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/the-vises-of-garage-journal.44782/post-2383317 where there is a copy of a catalogue page showing the accessory.

Thanks for the photos, Tom. @fastaussie was looking for a Champagne Le Mans. Maybe you could get him interested. Yours looks very clean.

That looks amazing.

Hi Tom. It seems that one must be registered on Facebook (not going to happen) to see that. Have you got it listed somewhere else? Not that I'm about to buy it, but I'm sure I'm not the only person in the world who is allergic to Facebook.

Yeah, that happens. As long as you don't have to leave town...

Well done, carry on, that man.

I don't even want to think about that...

Indeed. For a completey unknown band, they had a couple of surprisingly quick successes.

She'll be right mate, no worries... Seriously, though, having a good regulator in the system will keep the volts under control. That, in turn, will keep the waste heat from bad connections under control. The formula is here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joule_heating#Direct_current P = V²/R The resistance of the contact is constant, so the higher the voltage across the contact, the more work is done (power generated = heat generated). So keeping the voltage under control also keeps the heat generated within limits.

It occurs to me to mention that it is not only the blade connector that can have a bad contact. The crimp on the wire into the connector can also go bad. A good crimp is theoretically air tight, and should last a very long time. If the crimp is a bit shoddy, corrosion and oxidation can find their way into the crimp and cause a resistive contact. If there are persistant problems with bad contacts (too much warmth) despite cleaning and fettling, I would be inclined to pull the connector out of the socket and check the crimp.

Yes, but the "heat photos" show that it is not the fuse itself that is getting warm. I wouldn't expect that, either, except when the current is getting close to the limit for the fuse. What is getting warm is the contacts in the socket, and that makes sense. All things being equal, that is where the highest resistance in the circuit is to be expected.

The picture is no doubt from one of those "AI" programmes, like Easy Diffusion, where you type in "a picture of a Moto Guzzi on the moon" or something and it generates a picture. I had a play with that a while back. Quite surprising what it comes up with.

Yes, that makes sense. Generally speaking, a contact such as the plugs in the fuse sockets will have a higher resistance than the wires that is is connecting. A higher resistance at constant current will produce more warmth than a lower one. The current through the circuit is constant all the way through, so therefore the contacts will be a bit warmer than the rest. Still, 50°C seems a bit warm to me. Have you cleaned the fuse sockets up?

Check the edit...

His name isn't Wittner, is it? EDIT: found him, I think. https://ferraridentalcare.com.au/ I reckon I remember hearing about him at the time as a front-runner in the BEARS series. The name kind of sticks out a bit.

Hmmm, that would likely look better too. More homogeneous, less grafted together.

Interesting ad, that one. I followed the urging in the text to look at his other articles. Some interesting stuff there, some apparently cheap, including a KR 250 that I would be very tempted by if it was in Germany. I have the impression that the seller had big plans, but that his business idea has gone tits up on him.

Let's assume that the owner cannot, for whatever reason, operate a single track vehicle, and praise him for his humour in making the best of things.