audiomick

That's not much help in trying to help you. #1, for instance, is the complete fairing. #7 is the windshield.

Which ones exactly? Perhaps you could state the number(s) from the drawing here: https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&h=MG&m=220&t=5354#a174050

I haven't actually done a conversion, but read a lot about it. My V35 Imola has the Integral Braking Sytem, so it interests me. The collected wisdom seems to indicate that you may be able to use the existing hand lever /master cyclinder for both front disks, but will need a smaller master cylinder for the foot brake. The same hand master cylinder for two disks should give you a system with more travel in the lever but less effort for the same braking force. Where it can go wrong is that there might not be enough travel in the master cylinder to pump enough fluid to operate both slave cylinders adequately. If you were to use the existing foot master cylinder for only one disk instead of two, you would have a system with very little travel at the lever which requires a very large effort to achieve adequate braking force. The solution, as indicated above, is to change to a smaller master cylinder here. I'm sure there is someone here who can go into more detail about specific sizes of master cylinder / slave cylinder and so on. Incidentally, the Imola still has the integral system. I like it. The only thing I am seriously thinking about changing is the master cylinder for the hand brake. A slightly smaller one would provide a system with more feel and more braking power for less effort, at the cost of more travel at the lever.

Hmm, must have been a while ago. Never heard of that. On the other hand, there are some pretty isolated places in Australia. Who knows what might have been done for a settlement with only 3 or 4 buildings.

The Breva. I've got the day off tomorrow, and it looks like it will be mostly dry. I'll be out on the V11 for sure.

Mate, Drouin is not that far out of Melbourne (or are you in the Western Suburbs?). Why don't you go and visit Guzzler to swap experiences? I would, but the ride from Germany would take a couple of days... Incidentally, regarding your question Did you follow up on this?

I don't think I had ever heard Tommy Emmanual play a 12-bar blues in E before. Thanks for that! The man is quite brilliant, I reckon.

What brand is that? I don't want to alarm you, but there was one on the German market at the time that was very prone to giving up the ghost. Let me know the brand, and I'll go looking in the German forum for where I read about it. Maybe it is the same one, maybe not.

My fingers are crossed. Have a good trip. Hopefully successful.

Without wanting to de-rail the thread, I will be "forced" to ride one of the bikes to work tommorow. There will be a public transport strike, the weather will be acceptable, and I got the Breva 750 and the V11 Le Mans to a state in which I am prepared to ride them again last week. The only question is which one: the bike will be parked on the street near the opera into the evening. 1 point against the V11. It's only about 4.5 km, which is just enough to get the Breva more or less warm, but not really enough for the V11. Another point. So the Breva would be the sensible choice. But I really, really want to ride the V11. We'll see tomorrow morning. PS: neither of them have been ridden for the last couple of months. I've had the batteries out and on the charger, so I think they'll be right. Nevertheless, I think I'll take both keys with me when I go down to the courtyard to leave for work (4 floors, no elevator...)

Just checking to see if I understand this right. The point seems to be that the +/- 15 mV is less than the ~20 mV change between the figures at the bottom of the columns in the image that Phil posted here, and therefore an acceptable tolerance: Is that right?

Yeah, do that. I already answered your mail with the UPS costs, and said to put it in the US Post. But if DHL or Fedex is reasonable, that would be an option. Also, I'm happy to "go with the crowd", i.e. what the rest decides on. No need for you to be running around sending one from one place, and one from another.

Cheque is difficult for me. They are not in common use here, so I don't have a cheque account. I thought that paypal "to a friend" doesn't cost anything for either party. If you can't use that for whatever reason, just let me know what the charges are, and I'll put that amount on top.

Just as a matter of interest, which Peoria are we talking about here? It seems there is more than one... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peoria

Of course. I hope it works out...

Alternatively: Ask the seller if he would be prepared to have new tyres fitted at your cost, or make arrangements yourself to have some fitted in a workshop near the seller before you set off on the trip home. You want a Quota so much. Tyres can't be a deal breaker.

Any wonder. As I understand it, that number "4704" means it was produced in the 47th week of 2004. Even so, I would be inclined to risk it. Don't load the bike up too much, and take it easy. And put new tyres on it as soon as you get home. The front tyre still has good profile, but it looks pretty old to me too.

An anecdote on the side, sort of related to "who is fast and who is hitching a ride", and Barry. Barry Sheene moved to Australia for the climate. He stayed in touch with the racing scene, and was a commentator for motorcycle races on Australian television (and was very good at it..). I read in a motorcycle magazine that he got to ride one of the then (some years after his retirement from racing) competitive bikes. It might have been Mick Doohan's Honda, but I'm not sure. According to the report in the magazine, Barry went out on the bike in jeans and sneakers, and pulled a lap time that would have got him a position well up on the grid.

Not magical, but I gather Meinolf took the time to sit down and do the maths to find out the optimum number based on the numbers in the map. As Phil said, the result is, not surprisingly, well within the tolerance stated in the workshop book. At least in the one for the V11.

For which a lot of the credit goes to Barry Sheene. Of topic, I know, but credit where it is due.

Two days ago we had about 12"C. Yesterday and today about 8"C. Some rain, and lots of wind. It's still cold, but it's like Spring sent a postcard with the message "hey, I'll be round in about 6 weeks. See you then".

My answer is also on its way. Thanks.

Yes. It's the same principle, but reversed, as the logarithmic faders on an audio console. They do big steps at the bottom of the range of movement, and small steps towards the top of the range around the nominal level point, marked 0 dB. Typically, the first centimetre or so (depending on how physically long the fader is...) above and below 0 dB makes changes in the range up to +/- 10 db. Down at the bottom end, the same physical displacement of around a centimetre is more like 40 dB. The reason is, if you have your signal structure set up "right", your faders are all going to be somewhere near the nominal level, i.e. physically near the 0 dB mark. Subtle changes in the mix require a definite move of the fader to make a fairly small difference. The same definite move down towards the bottom of the range (where the fader theoretically only passes through during a complete fade-out) results in a level change that is anything other than subtle. Getting back to the motorbike: riding on the street, we spend most of our time below half-throttle or so. The non-linear TPS means that in that range, a specific movement of the throttle will trigger more break points than the same physical movement above the point where the characteristic changes, i.e. above the 30-odd degrees that Phil referred to. That makes sense: letting out the clutch, riding in traffic, accelerating out of the corner (road or race-track) all require fine control of the throttle, and all happen at (roughly speaking) less than half throttle opening. Above half open, it is generally about maximum acceleration, and tends to be a bit "digital", i.e. full throttle or closed throttle. Therefore, it is theoretically an advantage to have the ECU receive more break points in the lower range of throttle opening at the cost of larger jumps in the upper range of throttle opening. On top of that, there is also the thing that the relative change of the size of the air passage past the throttle valve is greater in the lower range of opening than it is in the upper range. That means, once again very roughly speaking, a change from "nearly shut" to "open a bit" might be equivalent to, for instance, "a bit over three quarters" to "flat out". Therefore, the three degrees difference between 5.9 and 8.8 may effectively not be so drastically less than the 12 or so between 50.4 and 60.1 as it seems at first glance. Having written all of that, the manufacturer apparently decided it all wasn't worth the effort. I gather newer TPSs than the ones in our V11s tend to be linear.

Not likely for me, but I wish I could. Thanks for the info.

No doubt that was referring to the lower range of the non-linear TPS. I saw a graph somewhere. The non-linearity is not a continuous curve, but rather a steep straight line, a bend, and another less steep straight line. Yes, I was also very suprised at how large that range is. Thinking about the numbers involved, I can see it as a pragmatic compromise within the context, but really accurate is mostly better. And lets me sleep better.