audiomick

All I can see there is: Video nicht verfügbar Dieses Video ist nicht verfügbar

An anecdote from the former East Germany: Apparently the winter 1996/1997 was very cold. A colleague related how the had repeated power failures. Most, if not all, of the power was being generated with brown coal. It was so cold that the coal froze to a solid block in the transport wagons, and they couldn't off-load it to feed it into the power plants. EDIT: 1996 was after the re-unification, of course. But "only" about 15 years, and a lot of the infrastructure in the former East Germany still hadn't been renewed by then. The power in the DDR was almost all from brown coal. Even today, there is still a power station a bit south of Leipzig that is still using brown coal. I think it is planned to be closed down in the near future, but at the moment it is still on line.

We're just coming out of a cold spell. About 2 weeks, a number of days not over -10° C. and nothing over about -3°C. That counts as "very cold" for Leipzig. Today is about +1°C. Snow predicted for tonight and tomorrow, and again later in the week. This week it apparently wont get much over +2°c, but also not much below -1°C. That is about right for here and this time of year, but I still find it too cold for my taste. The week after is predicted to see temperatures around 5 or 6°C for the whole week. Maybe I'll finally be able to get a couple of hours in the practically unheated garage in.

Make sure that is covered in the final price.

Perhaps you were distracted?

Thanks Pete.

Bullshit.

Yes. As I understand it, if you dial in too much preload, your suspension will top out when the wheel "falls into a hole". If you have to dial in that much preload to get the ride height to where it should be, your springs are too soft for the weight to be carried. If the springs are too soft, they will bottom out regardless of what you do with the preload.

I can't verify that 100%, but I have heard and read many times that springs can get shagged out. And I've ridden and driven a couple of vehicles where that was obviously the case.

No worries, mate. You don't get to choose your genes. EDIT @pete roper : thank you very much for the video. Best explanation I have had yet. I assume that the difference for a V11 is that one does have to adjust the throttle stop on the V11. Otherwise pretty much the same. One question, does the principle of "only adjust one bypass screw" also apply to the V11? I suspect it does, but haven't been able to find a clear statement to that effect. I also assume that pretty much everything in the video applies equally to the Breva 750 ie. Is that true? Thanks again. Mick

Yeah, mine too. The explanation as well. EDIT: found it https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Will_it_play_in_Peoria%3F

No. Preload can help to get the ride height right, as long as the springs have approximately the right rate. If you are bottoming out regularly, the spring rate is perhaps too soft, or the springs have maybe lost something due to age. Having said that, I'm nor exactly a suspension Guru, but I believe that is correct.

Mr. Bonham really was a shit hot drummer, wasn't he? Oh, yeah, and the others weren't that bad either. I read the other day that Jimmy Page has turned 80. No, looked it up: yesterday. Hope he had a good day.

No stress, mate.

She wasn't called Alice, was she? The one you were living next door to...

Probably not, if the paint is absolutely perfect. I believe so. At the end of the day, it is better to talk to an inspector about changes before they are done. Some are "better" than others, and even though the inspection is compulsory, the inspectors are commercial service providers. One can keep looking until one finds an inspector who is interested in something out of the ordinary.

They weren't, but I don't think that was the plan.

Yes, most likely. That would be a bit of an issue here, as the inspectors for the bi-annual roadworthy inspection tend to get a bit allergic when it is apparent that there has been welding done on a frame. If that isn't an issue, I have no doubt that a competent welder could sort out the cracks.

I found a couple of pictures in the german forum. I'll risk linking them here, as on of the posters would certainly permit it, and the other is no longer active. From the first bloke with the comment "the frame has the usual cracks", it is a Quota 1000. He also commented that the 1100 frame is "immune" to the problem. This bloke is a vehicle engineer, and very knowledgable in Guzzi lore. Not very good photos, but one can see what is meant. And this from the second bloke, apparently a Quota 1100 So I would be having a very good look at the frame in those areas. Edit PS: further reading indicates that the second bloke's problem with the 1100 may have been a one-off, but the cracks in the 1000 frame seem to be a known problem.

I don't know if it has been mentioned here, so for the record: I reckon I've read somewhere that the frame on the earlier Quota version was prone to cracking down near the swing-arm / shock mount. Don't know exactly where. Can anyone confirm the rumour?

I find it surprising how much difference that makes. I had the fairing from my V35 Imola re-painted, and didn't think to specify that it should be black inside. In fact, they could have just not painted the inside, as the (then original) fairing was made of black ABS. They didn't, so the inside became red as well. Annoyed me quite a lot. Fortunately ( I cursed a lot at the time, but now I have realised the advantage... ) the bike fell off the side-stand again, and that fairing got broken beyond repair. The one on it now is a bit shabby, but it is black on the inside. Much better.

Boys with toys. Ok, I'm just jealous.

Very nice. I like open tunings a lot. And Willie Nelsons guitar, yes, it has "character".

That's what I have always thought.

Very close. The closest I can think of is "Verdammt". Not literally the same, but functionally in the vernacular more or less the same.