audiomick

Obviously I'm not about to whip across California to buy a bike, but I'm curious... That would be a Le Mans V, I gather, i.e. the one where Luigi very sensibly went back to 18" wheels, right?

Ok, just had a look a the circuit diagram and verified what I suspected: the instrument lights, parking light, tail light and number plate light seem to be all on the same 12V feed. So there is no way to turn on the parking lights without the instrument lights.

Yes, I've already seen photos of a brown one, but I've no idea where they were.

That matches my 2002 V11 Le Mans Edit: @docc does "Park" really turn on the instrument lights? Doesn't make sense, really. Not that I'm questioning the fact, I just can't see why one would fire up the instrument lights to park the bike.

Yes, the mechanical part of the parking lock is in the bit that the key-lock is in, on to the bottom of which the switch is screwed. Incidentally, I swapped those two Phillips screw for Allen head screws. On my Le Mans it is close to impossible to get a decent Phillips screwdriver on to them. The short end of an Allen key is much easier. Anyway, the switch for the parking lights is in the ignitiion switch, so cleaning out and servicing the switch will have cleaned up the switch for the parking lights. The mechanical parking lock has no connection with the parking light switch (other than the mechanical connention that makes them both rotate together...) Edit: I've got one lying around in the garage. I'll try and remember to take a photo next time I'm in there...

Yes, that is, of course, absolutely imperative.

Yes. I read the solution here somewhere: don't try to pry out all three retainers. Get the one that is visually obvious free, and then rotate the switch plate upwards. And it just falls out. I can't remember what was "visually obvious", but it was obvious just by looking at it which of the three retainers is the one to be working on. I broke the first one. Success only after the failure, and thinking about what I did wrong. The second attempt was successful.

At least you remembered, even if a little late.

What might be a cause of that is founders of various businesses reaching retirement age. The business continues, but under new management, and things change. The old bloke who loved fiddling with machines and finding solutions is no longer active, and the new younger managemant is more focussed on the bottom line than on actually making things. For the business perhaps better in the sense of running the business, but not necessarily better for the customer.

@KINDOY2 As far as I can tell, that must have been around 1,000 km a day for three days. I'm impressed. And that, apparently, on a Griso. Not necessarily known as a great touring bike, not like a GTR 1000 Kawasaki, for instance. That shows a certain amount of dedication.

No. In fact, he doesn't seem to be offering any wheels at all anymore..

I happen to know that they are PVM wheels, and Phil got them from Däs Mototech. However, even knowing that, I can't find them on the net. I rather suspect that Phil might have got (one of) the last set(s) that Däs had on offer. I'm not 100% sure, but I think they are from this series (but the V11 is not listed there...): https://pvm.de/de/produkte/raeder/6-speichen-felge/

Keep an eye on the internet, and if one turns up for sale near you, go and test ride it.

So the moral of the story seems to be, read everything here and everywhere else you can find good info, believe it all, and then have a look for yourself and think very carefully about it all despite what you have read up til then.

Thanks Marty. Then the workshop book seems to be misleading or incomplete(or I didn't read it thoroughly enough). Who would have thought...

Yeah, he talks about putting it in first, and maintains that the dots line up in first. Baldini, however, wrote that the box should be in neutral to re-fit the selectors. As I wrote, curious. Has anyone been in there recently and can clear my confusion?

That's curious. The manual starts off the gearbox disassembly section with "make sure the gearbox is in neutral" page 326 here https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf and when they get around to refitting the selector on page 348, they talk about lining up the dots, and "Important: The fitting procedure for the pre-selector cover must only be carried out when the gearbox is in neutral." but the lined up dots is actually first gear?

I think the green probably is better. Your idea for the carbon guard with a clear strip in the middle might be a good one, if you can get it painted the right colour.

Thanks Phil. I like to think I'm not a ham-fisted moron, but I have managed deform circlips in the past. Maybe I'll get a couple in just to be on the safe side.

I never had a K 100 myself, but a couple of mates of mine did. What I have is a Kawasaki 1000 GTR. Rumour has it that Kawasaki bought a K100, looked at it and found the "weak points", and made a motorcycle that didn't have them. Looking at the photos in the interweb, I can imagine the BMW has a couple of tricks up it's sleeve akin to the GTR that the Le Mans doesn't have. On the GTR, the rider's hands are in the slipstream from the mirrors. Going by the photos, that is likely to be the case on the K 100 as well. That is worth a million in cold wet weather. The fairing on the GTR is so good that it is unpleasant in hot weather. Too hot. Also, 160 km/h on the German Autobahn is completely relaxed, because the fairing keeps you out of the wind. I have a little bit of turbulence on the top of the helmet, but that is it. When there is a gusty wind and lots of traffic (i.e. turbulence from other vehicles) one starts wondering if the motor has a problem. One doesn't feel the incosistent wind, and it feels like the motor is missing or something. Going by the photos, at least the K100 RT is going to be very similar. From what my mates told me way back when, the RS is not quite as all-encompassing as far as protection goes, but still very good. Oh, yeah, when it starts raining, on the GTR the first part of the rider that gets wet is his back, due to blow-back from the turbulence. Front on, barely anything gets through. The fairing on the Le Mans strikes me as being pretty good. I haven't ridden mine in the rain yet, but the wind protection seems quite well sorted for the size of the fairing. The motor takes care of the legs a bit. That is likely to be similar to the RS. The fairing on the GTR and the BMW RT goes down further. I dare say the RT provides heating for the feet through motor heat, as does the GTR. The RS probably not, but rather similar "performance" around the feet to the Le Mans. Lots of speculation there, but I'm pretty sure most of it must be fairly close to the truth.

Could you tell me (us) which part number you are referring to? The parts must be on this diagram: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/schaltung-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020330_300602033012.html I expect to be going in there in the foreseeable future (maybe this winter), and would like to have those sort of things ready to go before I start. PS: How does one do that?

Bill, was that up early, or up late?

There have been posts about that here. I think someone (at least one) has done it, but It's too late at night for me right now to start looking for the relevant topics.

That's how I see it.

I'd take it happily.