audiomick

I think the only "grab rail" any of the V11 Models have is the strap across the middle of the seat. The pillion can hold on to that, or the rider. Neither is particularly satisfying; I think.

Yeah, stops bodies colliding, but puts all her weight on the rider's hands on the bars. I find that very hard to deal with. I like my pillion to hang on with the thighs, like on a horse, and brace with the hands against my hips. When I'm a pillion, that works well for me as a pillion, and when I have a pillion who does that, it also works well for me as the rider.

You're registered on 3 of the 4 German forums that I visit regularly, although the last visit on two of them was a very long time ago, and the third a couple of years. The fourth one would have surprised me, as it is the one from Martin Hageman for the small block models. So yes, I probably saw your emojis on one of the German forums.

Hmmm.... Challenge: invent a cocktail using both. I can't see it working myself, but am open to suggestions. I will try any recipes that are posted here and pass judgement.

That's interesting. I know at least three of them from other forums. Jaap, I think you must be world famous.

I haven't had my V11 all that long, so this is not expert experience, but rather stuff that I have read here and elsewhere. ECU and map: Have you read about Guzzidiag yet? Look here: https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ Guzzidiag is an analysis programme that displays what the ECU is receiving from the various sensors, and can actuate the fuel pump and injectors to see if they are functioning correctly and such things. Guzzidiag can't change the map. The reader and writer programmes can respectively read out and save to a file on your computer the map currently installed on the ECU and install a map (re-install the original, install a different one...). So, with those programmes you can change the map if you have an alternative to install. Right down the bottom of the page is a link to tuner-pro. Unlike everything else on the page, Beard did not write that programme. I haven't looked at it yet, but I gather tuner-pro can be used to look at and analyse and alter a map. So yes, it is possible to change a map, but this might involve quite a lot of research and time and effort. Unless you find someone who already has a map that suits your setup. Brace on the gearbox: As far as I can tell from what I have read, the part in question must be part #15 on this diagramme https://wendelmotorraeder.de/rahmen-1100-sport-corsa-98-99-ex-30_3006_300615_30061510_3006151001.html Going by the parts lists on that site, that part was fitted to the Sport 1100 / 1100 Sport and Centauro models. Going by what I have read here, it was apparently fitted to a very small number of very early V11 Sport. For some reason, it stopped being fitted even though the mounting bracket was still on the frame. The lack of this bracket is considered to be the cause of cracking in the rear of the gearbox housing. The later, long frame V11 models have additional bracing from the frame to the gearbox and no longer have the bracket for the brace on the frame. Therefore, mounting the brace on those models is neither necessary nor possible. Here is a thread on the topic Pete Roper slosh plate: The problem that the slosh plate addresses is that, under acceleration, the intake to the oil circulation system can suck air because the oil has surged to the back of the sump, and the intake is at the front. I believe that there was a change to later V11 models that alleviates this problem, but I'm not at all sure about that. Forum member @Pressureangle is working on getting a batch of the plates made. I'm planning on getting one when they become available, even though it may not be so critical for my 2002 V11 Le Mans. The most current information I have found is here

Yeah, I got that. I'm up for schmalz and fiddling too, and yes, people like Rieu do bring pleasure to millions and perhaps even bring some people to listen so stuff they might otherwise have missed out on. I just prefer to go on and listen to what the originator of the piece actually intended. Mostly, as in the case of Beethoven's 9th., there is a heap of really interesting subtleties that get lost when someone does a "greatest hits" arrangement. Anyway, difficult to hold such a conversation via text alone. It can so quickly sound (look) like something other than what was intended to be said. I'm not a music snob, I'm a sound engineer, I studied music and currently work in an opera house. That doesn't stop me enjoying a bit of kitsch now and then, or distorted guitars.

The lady sings very well indeed. However, let's do the piece properly, shall we? Ludwig got it exactly right the first time round, and it doesn't need anyone buggerising around with it making "easily digestible" arrangements or any of that sort of rubbish. Here, the link is set at the start of the relevant last movement. Take the time to listen to all of it (about 25 minutes). It builds up so well, it is really a shame just to jump to the "hit" and leave out the rest. And this is the reason why I chose that recording...

Yes, there is something in that. But let's be generous and concentrate ourselves on "beauty is in the eye of the beholder". I'm sure the constructor meant well, and perhaps there were unforseen difficulties in aquiring an exhaust system that was not an ugly piece of shoeshine.

I shared a house in Melbourne with a couple of mates of mine for the last several years before I moved to Germany. It was something of a meeting point for motorcycling friends, and perhaps a bane for some neighbours. One of the blokes who lived there had a Moto Guzzi 850 Le Mans III, a Honda CBX 1000, a Yamaha XT 500 (awful...), and a Honda NS400 R. At the time, the Motorcycle Rider's Association https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_Riders_Association_of_Australia was really on a roll, and they organised track days at Calder Raceway a couple of years in a row. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calder_Park_Raceway (On the flat bit, not on the banked "thunderdome" bit.) So, my mate let me ride his NS 400 R whilst he had a go on my 1976 Z 900. My mate was not the fastest in the bunch, and I was reeling him in. At the end of the long straight I could see him ahead of me in the 180° turn, and thought "I'll get him on this lap". The next thought was "oh dear, I know that noise" (of fairings and such scraping across the asphalt...). The culprit was the Avon tyre that my mate had fitted to the front wheel of his (according to the standards of the time) super-sport bike. The tyre was a middle price, long-lasting touring tyre, and not up to race-track shenanigens. To give my mate credit, there was not much choice available at the time for the 16" front wheel of the NS, but the Avon was definitely not a good choice. So, I've had a bad experience too. On the positive side, I've got Avon Spirit ST on the Kawasaki 1000 GTR, and those tyres on that bike are a really good choice.

Hi docc. I'd be quite interested in the film, but all I see is this: Video not available This video contains content from Tele München Fernseh GmbH + Co Produktionsgesellschaft VOD. This partner has blocked the video in your country for copyright reasons. Can you summarise the Video in a small number of very short sentences with mono-syllabic words?

to me, it looks like a Griso 1200 motor, exhaust and drivetrain in (perhaps) a spine frame with a V11 tank and a fairing that approximates or is derived from a Sport 1100. If it is well done, potentially a very exciting motorcycle. Poorly done, a potential nightmare. In the picture it is pretty enough. Something about the proportions irritates me, but I'm not sure that the problem there is not simply an artefact of a very short focal length lens on the camera that took the picture. ( @Admin Jaap it's about time we had that "scratching his head and thinking heavily" emoticon here...)

Are they really good for anything? I ask as someone who has recently bought a low-mileage Breva 750, i.e. prime marketing target for those tyres. Reading the blurb for Roadrider, I've always had the impression that they are probably that which I and my friends in Melbourne in the late 80's would have referred to as "Taxi tyres", i.e. tyres which last well but don't offer all too much in the way of grip, handling, or whatever.

Amazon has always been my last resort. To the extent that I honestly believe that I have never bought anything from Amazon. anyway, the pertinent question of the moment seems to me to be this one:

Good call, @NicoNZ Furthering that thought: milky looking headlight. Brake discs have seen a good bit of use, the way they look. I can't say for sure, but the tread pattern on the tyres looks to me to be quite a bit more modern than to be expected on a 20 year old bike. My guess would be that the clock has gone around (at least...) once.

You apparently didn't read my last post, immediatly before yours with that question, all the way to the end. Here it is again...

Mine doesn't rub, but the bracket on the left is closer to the tank than on the right. I think it might have to do with the left cylinder being further back than the right, but I didn't have enough time to have a really close look at it after I noticed the "problem". I have been informed by someone who really knows what he is talking about that there can be problems with contact between fairing, sidecovers and tank, and ensuing wear and tear. He suggested a thick washer or two under the rear mount of the tank to raise it a couple of millimeters. I haven't had a really close look yet to see exactly what it will acheive, but the first glance indicated that this might be a really good idea.

Have a listen to this woman. I heard her a couple of months ago. Fairly young, and quite brilliant. Unfortunately the recordings here are a bit shitty. https://www.bryndisgudjonsdottir.com/media

Yes, exactly. Getting the alternator cover off is complicated on mine, as I have the crossover between the headers which sits in front of the alternator cover. Nevertheless, I prefer a spanner (socket) on the alternator to turn over the motor. Whatever the method is to turn over the motor, the straw is very useful. Actually, I prefer to use a piece of heat shrink tube. Because: it happens to be lying around in easy reach of the work bench, it is soft enough to not damage anything inside the motor, and tough enough to not get chewed up if it does get jammed in there a bit. The "straw" is useful because it means I can be watching the valves whilst turning the motor with one hand and feeling what the "straw" is doing with the other. I turn the motor until it gets to TDC. Generally it kind of pops past the precise point. I've always assumed that this has to do with what the valve springs on the other piston are doing. So, I go back a bit and approach the point again. I have observed where I was at with the spanner on the alternator and what the straw was doing, and can find the TDC on the second approach very precisely. By the way, the reason for always approaching the TDC in the correct direction of motor rotation is to ensure that all the slop in the cam chain and so on is being taken up be the tensioner in the way the manufacturer intended, i.e. any backlash or whatever is there where it will be at when the motor is really running. Seems logical to me...

Yes, that is correct. I did the valve clearances on mine recently, and found a mark for TDC for the left cylinder. I don't remember what it was, though. I'm not quite sure, but I reckon I didn't find a mark for the right hand cylinder. Should be easy to check though: with the rocker covers off, watch what the valves are doing. Find the combustion TDC, go back a bit, and turn the motor slowly past the TDC whilst keeping an eye on the flywheel through the hole. That's how I found the mark for the left cylinder. The most difficult part of the process was getting the cover off the alternator to be able to put a spanner on the front of the motor and turn it over in a controlled fashion. What a pain in the proverbial...

Off ramps are tricky. You never really know what you are going to find at the bottom. I tend to take them a bit easier. On ramps, on the other hand... All things being equal, they lead here very often on to an unlimited section of Autobahn, and it is in your interest to hit it (the Autobahn...) already doing a respectable speed. Except if you have to tuck in behind a truck (speed limit 80 km/h), or there are road works, or there is a traffic jam, or there is lots of traffic and you have to juggle to get in, or.... So yes, I enjoy (on) ramps that I know, but always with a bit of reserve for unforseen circumstances.

Whatever you reckon. Just remember, red is 10% faster....

So the Dunlop and Avon product pallettes are both being rigorously rationalised. Hmm, we'll see how that developes...

Feel free to do that if you want. You're the one that will be seen riding it... Seriously, though, what about red bar end weights. I'm repeating myself there. Someone here was looking for suggestions for a bit more red on the front, and that occurred to me. I think it would work on yours too, Phil. And yes, the mudgaurd is much better in green.