audiomick

Further to that, what is the difference between the battery voltage measured from battery plus to battery minus directly, and the voltage on plus contact that activates the relay measured from the contact on the relay to battery minus? EDIT: I just went back over the whole thread, and saw that you have posted voltages for both of those at various times, but apparently not for measurements taken at the same time. Relevant is what the battery voltage is when it is not starting (and how much it drops when you try to start), and then how much of that voltage is actually reaching the relay. and then this: really sounds a lot like an intermittant contact somewhere. I feel that is unlikely to be a faulty relay, and you seemed to have changed all the relays already anyway. I think you need to look even closer at all the wiring, connectors and switches involved in the starter circuit.

I'd be looking for a good second-hand part, but for what it's worth, it looks like Stein-Dinse might be able to supply a new one. Part #32 here https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=en&h=MG&m=217&t=5247 which is this https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/buegel-matt-schwarz/item-2-1021634-01635840-.html no photo, unfortunately.

I don't think so, but would have to look at the bike to be really sure. @docc 's photo seems to answer your questions clearly, though. Here is a link to a parts list. The relevant exploded drawings for all the parts you listed are unfortunately not all on one page, but if you leaf through it, you can piece together what should be in there. https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11LM_2002_062011_PL(GB).pdf If you want other documantation, here is the "front page" of the site: https://guzzitek.org/gb/accueil_gb.htm

I don't know for sure, but I have the impression that the front mudguard had the same form for all models, regardless of which forks were used. Have a look at these parts diagrams and the part numbers (the first four digits are all the same) and decide for yourself. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/schutzblech-vorne-v11-sportmandello-99-01-ex-30_3006_300602_30060201_3006020110_300602011008.html https://wendelmotorraeder.de/schutzblech-vorne-v11-nakedle-manns-01-02-ex-30_3006_300602_30060202_3006020210_300602021007.html https://wendelmotorraeder.de/schutzblech-vorne-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020310_300602031007.html https://wendelmotorraeder.de/schutzblech-vorne-v11-03-04-corsa-ex-30_3006_300602_30060204_3006020410_300602041007.html https://wendelmotorraeder.de/schutzblech-vorne-v11-03-05-cafballabio-ex-30_3006_300602_30060205_3006020510_300602051007.html What I'm getting at, if you should find a hen's tooth CF V11 Mudguard, it seems to be a fair risk to buy it and see if it will fit. Given that they are so rare, you should be able to off-load it again, if it doesn't fit, sooner or later. As an aside, I believe @Lucky Phil has a carbon fibre mudguard on his hybrid monster greenie with the V10 motor. Maybe he will chime in and tell us where he got it?

Nice to know there is a new dealership, but whoever invented the term "motoplex" needs a good kick in the arse.

Halloween seems to be gaining popularity in Germany, although it has absolutely nothing to do with the culture here. As far as I can tell, it is probably a pagan Gaelic festival that was "christianised" by the early christian movement. Its modern day increasing popularity here can only be ascribed to commercialism.

Because it hasn't been mentioned in this topic yet, guzzitek.org. https://guzzitek.org/ The site contains an enormous amount of documentation for Moto Guzzi bikes. Navigation there takes a bit of getting used to, so here are some more direct links Owner's manual (scroll down to find the link to the V11 stuff...) https://guzzitek.org/f/utilisation_f.htm#gb Parts list (once again, scroll down...) https://guzzitek.org/f/parts_list_f.htm#gb Workshop manual (yes, once again, scroll down...) https://guzzitek.org/f/atelier_f.htm#gb

Try this or this That looks prerry serious. Glad you had a good time in South Australia though, and yes, holidays end far too fast.

That's an easy one: enough minus 1

I think that recording could use a bit more reverb...

Wow. Would love to go through them and see what's there. It might be all rubbish, but it might not. Makes a man curious...

Coincidence, or serendipity maybe? Yesterday evening I looked through some vinyl LPs that my girlfriend recently brought from her childhood home to our place. That record is one of them. Also included: Tommy, Quadrophenia, and Made in Japan.

Maybe, but I doubt it. Here is a photo from the Wiki of the bridge after the collapse. Chemnitzer Eisenbahner, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons The old building on the left is on the edge of the historical city centre of Dresden. I can't imagine them building anything high enough to in any way possibly interfere with the view of that. They might try and get that one pylon out of the water, I guess. That would mean a span of about 70 metre, I think, which should be possible. We'll see in the due course of time, no doubt.

My guess.... The actual building will probably only be a year, maybe two. I doubt very much if it can be done in less than a year, but I don't know. Doing it as shown in the link from @Pressureangle is out of the question, as the brige in question is over a river. Preparing the new bridge next to the old one and then just rolling it into place (which I have seen done here...) is simply not possible, and incidently pointless. That procedure serves to have the work done with a minimum of interruption of traffic. The traffic flow in Dresden is already interrupted, so there is no point in fluffing around with that sort of thing. Just clean out the broken bridge, and build the new in its place. Given the length of the span in Dresden, apparently 375 metres in total, and the fact that it is over a river that carries a fair bit of shipping traffic, I don't expect re-building to be all that simple. The rest of the time is likely to go on planning, the tender process (has to happen, as it involves public money...) more planning, the approval process, correcting the plans, having the corrections approved, having the financing approved, and so on. As I said, 10 years is a guess. Maybe it will happen quicker, but it will definitely be a number of years before the bridge is replaced.

I'm a bit sceptical. Not because I don't believe that works. I've seen a bloke "cure" a leg on a Stelvio with a cable tie, and the concept is eminently plausible. The thing is, mine isn't just dripping a bit. It has really dropped a lot of oil, I'd say all that was left in the fork after the ride, in one hit. I don't think a bit of grit under the seal would cause that. The bike has nearly 70,000 km. on it, and has obviously had one or a couple of previous owners who weren't so, shall we say, "precise" with the maintenance and mechanical things. It's going to take a while, but I'm seriously considering having the forks off to a suspension specialist to have them re-furbished.

And again. Probably dead, I reckon. I've no idea how old the battery is, actually. It looks pretty "new", as in clean. But the bike did practically no kilometres over 10 years before I bought it, so who knows. Most of the work it does now is very short trips, only about 5 km., which is also not the best for a battery.

Thanks for the update. I've just realised that the link in your first post is to a German company. Cool. Keeps the postage down for me.

Completely off topic, but "bridges": A bridge collapsed in Dresden about 4 weeks ago. Fortunately at about 3:00 in the morning, so no-one was hurt. It was this one https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/264360408 zoom out a bit, and you can see how critical it is to traffic in Dresden. It is (was) more or less the main bridge across the river close to the city centre. Here is what it looks like now The bit that collapsed carried a tram line and a bike path and pedestrian path. Alone the tram line will cause huge problems. And then... They will obviosly have to minutely examine the parallel span that carries the road traffic, and the river is blocked. The river is a major transport route for river-boat cargo. They're going to have problems for at least the next ten years. A new bridge doesn't just happen overnight. Getting back to the weather, same deal. Things that got destroyed in a few short hours can take years and decades to be restored.

First of all, I don't have any direct experience with the California models. Nevertheless.. I'm active in a German Guzzi forum, and read nearly everything that gets posted there. More than once, I've seen the Cali EV described as the best of them all. It is "the pinnacle" of a long line of constant developement over several decades, if you like. The motor got spruced up a bit more for the Sport 1100 and V11 models, and the CARC models were, to an extent, the start of a new chapter. The Tonti frame means that, even though it is a chopper, it has the same genes as all of those legendary sport models like the V7 Sport and the first round of Le Mans models. It is allegedly a chopper that can really go round corners, unlike most other "cruiser" brands. My impression is that it should be a little lighter on the maintenance side of things than the CARC models, but I don't think there is much in it. As far as I can tell, reliability should be good if the maintenance has all been done. You might have a few issues initially with aged rubber bits if it has been sitting around for a while, but then again, you might get lucky. That's the same for any older vehicle that has not been used much for a few years. If you think California Dreaming is the way to go for you, I'd say "go for it". The California riders in the German forum all absolutely love them.

Your garage is obviously too big. Can't you cut a bit off it and send it to me?

The trick is to keep the help going long enough. Short term water, food and shelter is really important, of course. Then there is the clean-up, and the re-build. The disaster goes on for months, even years, long after the TV news stop reporting on how tragic it all is.

Because I saw that someone (a guest) was looking at this thread just now: This gist of it is, a couple of members of this forum put rather a lot of effort into producing an alternative spring that looks like it should last pretty much forever. Jump to the later post to find out whether there are still some available.

Getting back to the relays, look at this: sorry it is a bit messy. I drew it for myself, and wasn't intending to "publish" it. The drawing is an "extraction" of the parts of the complete circuit diagramme that are relevant to the starter circuit. It is correct for my 2002 Le Mans, and I believe later models also had the same circuitry. Anyway, you can see that the ECU relay gets the power that activates it after the ignition switch, either the side-stand switch or the relay that is triggered by the neutral switch, and the kill switch. I had to think about it again myself, but the side-stand switch must be closed when the side-stand is up, and therefore pass current in that positon. If the side-stand is down (switch open), then the neutral switch must be closed (neutral selected) to activate the side-stand switch relay and pass current through there instead of the side-stand switch. So... If you can replicate your results from toggling the kill switch by putting the side stand down and then back up, or turning the ignition off and back on, it might point to the ECU relay as your culprit. Doing the same test with the neutral switch would involve putting the side stand down, and putting the gearbox into neutral. You can see the principle, I hope: switch off and back on the power that triggers the ECU relay by way of various switches, and see if that always brings it back to life. If not, the kill-switch is more likely to be the direct culprit, I think. I can easily imagine that if the ECU loses power, even for a very short interval, it just goes off, and needs a moment to re-boot before it works again. I think it is plausible that a dodgy relay might lose contact at higher engine revs (higher/faster vibrations), and regain it after being "cycled". And lose it again when the "critical conditions" re-occur. I would expect, to an extent, that this behaviour might well relate to a resonant frequency related to the internals of the relay in question. That would mean that the behaviour would consistently occur at about the same r.p.m. every time, even when slowly opening the throttle to gradually build up to the engine speed involved. Would you care to experiment a little and see if this may be the case? If so, that would probably indicate a relay as the culprit, I reckon. Coupled with the apparent relationship with the kill switch, the ECU relay seems likely to me, assuming my speculation is correct. The ECU relay is in position #4, according to my workshop manual.