audiomick

No, it's what too many Italian words do. PS: just had a look and got this message: that means (approximately) "the search was carried out correctly. Result of the application: For this vehicle, no recalls apply" I'm happy.

Compliance here means it needs to have a German ABE (something like "general permission for use) or a European "E Number". Doesn't matter how good it is, if the number isn't on it, it's out of the game. As I mentioned, Hyperpro is in the Netherlands, so I assume they are on to the "E Number". We'll see, maybe. Practically the only thing on a bike that doesn't need a number is luggage racks. Can't work out how they slipped through the net, but that's how it is.

I gather that it is really not that necessary on the long frame bikes, BUT... I learned today that it is apparently an "homologation item", i.e. if it is missing and something nasty happens, there may be problems with the law and/or insurance. Therefore, I will be leaving it on, even if it is turned back all the way. Might have a go at re-building it (thanks @MartyNZ for the info), might just bite the bullet and get one of the Hyperpro units. That would need a european certificate of compliance, but the manufacturer is from the Netherlands. Maybe they have one.

the Stray Cats reference reminds me of this french Band, not the same thing actually, but there are similarities. The band played at a pub in Melbourne where I worked as the house technician for a couple of years in the '80s. It was a really good evening. Heaps of fun. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmZlc_Dl2ds PS: you tube doesn't allow embedding of that video for some reason. Here are search results for that band: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=happy+drivers+psychobilly

Ok, referring to that data sheet again, in the same block (fourth last, ninth down...) the top entry # 1 904 492 016 is a 4.8 mm connector. It is also listed at the place you linked further up: https://rct-global.com/part/receptacle-to-suit-mini-relay-4-8mm-bosch-1-904-492-016/ The difficulty with those connectors might be finding someone who is willing to sell less than 100 at a time...

not the last, the fourth last. That is the ninth group down. I can't say for sure, but I am (or was) fairly convinced that the connectors on my relays are all 6.3 mm. I'll try and find time to have a look tomorrow. Either way, those connectors seem to me to be a fairly standarised part. I dare say they don't even need to be Bosch, as long as they have the barb, and are the right size. Bosch might last longer, though.

Thanks docc. I'll have a look at that thread tomorrow.

No, go down a bit. You're looking for # 1 901 355 975. The second last column with the grey background, 100 or 50 or 25, is the number of units in a package ( Stück je Packung ). The part number is the last column; "Bestellnummer", 10 digits. In the first grey column from the left, see "Flachsteckhülse mit Rastnase". The Rastnase is the barb that holds the receptacle in the relay base.

My long frame V11 Le Mans was in for its bi-annaul inspection yesterday. Passed, but not with flying colours. The engineer noted that the steering damper was losing oil, and the workshop Meister told me when I picked it up that the damper wasn't doing anything worth mentioning any more. So: What is the general opinion; is the steering damper absolutely necessary on a long frame V11? As mentioned, it apparently isn't really doing anything much anymore, and I haven't missed it, so I'm, inclined to just remove it. The Meister also was of the opinion that it could be removed. Second question, is the steering damper reparable? I don't reckon I really need it, but I would be curious to find out how much difference it makes, if that could be achieved without too much financial effort.

Silly tyres, and I'm not really convinced by the exhaust, but otherwise pretty.

Your link for the base further up yielded this: https://rct-global.com/part/receptacle-to-suit-standard-relay-bases-bosch-1-901-355-917/ I searched the part number and found this spec sheet: https://www.ibs-gruppe.de/shop/media/pdf/b6/60/e0/Datenblatt57ba9779de6cd.pdf The part is in the fourth last entry. 6.3mm width, suitable for wire gauges from 1.5 to 2.5 mm². Looks good to me. Once again, that appears to be an off-the-shelf Bosch part.

It seems to be a Bosch part. I also noticed the circular Logo that docc identified further up. I'm assuming that Bosch is also fairly common in the USA. Here, any useful auto-electric shop should be able to source Bosch parts. I quick search in the interweb also produced a number of hits. If Greg Bender has them, good. He deserves the custom. What I'm getting at is, I don't think one needs to get too concerned about sourcing the things. It is apparently nothing particularly special, just an off-the-shelf Bosch part.

Well, that's a good reason. While we're on the subject....

No. They're all just jealous, and don't want to admit it.

Of course one doesn't want unfiltered air going into the motor. "Critical" was meant as "does the motor still run or not". An air leak before the throttle bodies is not extremely critical in that sense. As far as unfiltered air goes, it isn't good. But there are motors out there with nothing but velocity stacks before the carbies or throttle bodies. They probably wont last as long as a bike with a filter, but the don't destroy themselves within a week either.

Have a look here. Wendel is kind enough to actually state the dimensions of some of the screws. Maybe it will help you. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/luftfilter-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020310_300602031027.html As far as the rubber bits go: anything that looks old and deteriorated before the throttle bodies should be replaced in the course of time, but is not extremely critical. Between the throttle bodies and the motor is important. If anything there looks old, replace it. If you get air leaks there, it can do really weird things to the way the motor runs.

Look here:

Yes, my thoughts are often very similar. And almost every time I get on the bike, the thought goes briefly through my head "it could happen today". Doesn't put me off riding and loving it, but it helps keep me safe(r).

Thanks docc. Looks like that is not too hard to source.

Had that apart about six months ago. Someone broke the back off it whilst it was parked on the street. I mentioned it here at the time. You may recall having seen this photo here already: Nevertheless, I'll be taking that apart again some time soon. There is still a small problem to deal with (which doesn't affect the operation...) As already mentioned, the thoughts are already churning regarding an additional relay.

Yes, I also have learned a lot here. I'm working through it myself because I want to understand it. I'm documenting it in the hope that this might help someone else understand what is going on better, and because writing helps me think it through.

@p6x would you care to name the manufacturer and model/ type of the socket you used for the sixth relay? I've tried a prefunctory search in the 'net, but it seems to be not so easy to find out what exactly they are. Edit: hang on, is this the right one? https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/moto-guzzi-relaishalter-mini-350-750-nevada-california/item-2-1118761-Relaishalter-.html

Yes, I am considering swapping to see if it makes any difference. If it does, I will get some new relays. Thanks for the confirmation. I was already thinking that would be the one to take. The relays in my V11 are all the same, and all 5 pin. They are these: @Tomchri I haven't added another relay yet, but I'm considering doing exactly that very seriously.

I was at it again today with the charged battery. It showed just over 13V fresh off the charger, and still 12.6V or so after several rounds of activating the starter to measure things. I pulled the #4 relay to de-activate the ECU, and unplugged the fuel pump, so I could activate the starter without starting the motor every time. What I found was: Voltage across the battery didn't go under 10V. According to various reliable sources, that is ok. As mentioned, after all the measurements the battery was still delivering about 12.6V. I'm beginning to hope that it is still ok, and was just not fully charged. The charging system seems to be ok. Just over 13V at the battery at idle, and about 13.8V when revved up a bit. I didn't see more that just on 14V. That was a very quick measurement, as the bike was running in a closed garage, and I'm very careful about exhaust gases. Nevertheless, it looks ok, I think. At the contact on the starter for the solenoid, i.e. the blade connector, I was seeing about 9.6V. At the moment I don't really know where the other 3 and a bit Volts are going. I need to do some more thinking about resistors in series and the resulting voltage divider characteristics. Maybe have a chat to my colleague who really knows about electrical and electronic circuits. I did the Caig Deoxit business on the fuses. The relays got done on Monday. A further experiment might be to swap the #1 relay with one of the other ones, and see if that makes any difference. Anyway, I had the impression today that maybe the starting problem is cleared up. Up till now, 3 or 4 start attempts would always result in at least one with only a click instead of the starter firing up. Today I didn't have any failures. The bike is overdue for its bi-annual roadworthy inspection. I'm going to take it in next Tuesday for that. I probably wont do anything further until then. Maybe I'll just ride it a couple of times after that, and see how the battery holds up, and if the problem crops up again.

How could anyone do that to a Sport 1100?