audiomick

Right off topic, but I had to grin at that. The reason is advice that someone gave about these measurement mics: https://www.thomann.de/de/behringer_ecm_8000.htm The advice was "you can use them. The best thing to do is buy ten, test them all to find the best one, and flog the rest off on e-bay". To put the price into perspective: I have one of these, a very solid and affordable mic that has been on the market for a long time, i.e. the developement costs have been recovered several times over https://www.thomann.de/de/beyerdynamic_mm_1_2023.htm and here one from the class of mic I can't afford... https://www.thomann.de/de/earthworks_audio_m50.htm Heading back towards "on topic", Phil hit the nail on the head: there is a reason the Behringer is so cheap. The design is, as with a lot of Behringer products, quite ok. The production tolerances are lousy.

If they did, they most likely didn't weigh the same as the standard pistons, and I reckon a crankshaft balance was indicated.

Only slightly jealous about that workshop.

And yet it apparently is. The search for the MG part number at Stein-Dinse, a reputable supplier, threw up apparantly conflicting results. I see your point entirely, but also the value of pointing out that one may need to look closer when a simple search throws up apparently conflicting results. NB: searching using the Brembo part number threw up several results from other suppliers that seemed to be consistent. Perhaps that is the better method in this instance.

EDIT: docc was quicker (again...) but I'll leave the post as I wrote it. Ok, I went searching again. On the basis of the part number for the "correct" kit, GU28659378, I got a couple of hits. Stein-Dinse: no photo, so I don't trust it https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/bausatz-pumpenueberholung/item-2-1588574-GU28659378-.html with a photo, but it looks wrong. I think their search function had a brain fart https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/bremszylinder-reparatursatz-ps-13-hand/item-1-1046268.html This one looks close to right, but claims to be for a PS 13 rather than PS 12 https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/ducati-kupplungszylinder-reparatursatz-ps-13-750-sport/item-1-1001089.html This one from Wendel looks like it might be right https://wendelmotorraeder.de/bausatz-pumpenueberholung_gu28659378-p-1005001.html seems like it is not all that easy to find the right kit. another edit: PS, I have it in the back of my mind that Stein-Dinse did a complete re-build of their website a couple of months ago. It is pretty good, but I don't quite trust it completely yet. Maybe there are still a few bugs in the catalogue.

Thanks, docc. That's for the clutch master cylinder, isn't it? [docc edit: I posted the wrong part for the clutch master cylinder rebuild kit, so these links are not correct, either. My bad. @Speedfrog posted the correct part below. ] For the europeans, Stein-Dinse and Wendel both seem to have an equivalent: https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/bremszylinder-reparatur-satz-ps-12/item-2-1045955-17659352-.html https://wendelmotorraeder.de/rep-satz-handgeber-12er-rund_gu17659352-w1-p-6111800.html In fact, Wendel has two alternatives, but I'm not convinced that the price difference justifies this one... https://wendelmotorraeder.de/bausatz-hpumpenueberholung_gu17659352-p-1001708.html

That's this, right? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lidar If they couldn't get it to work right, it should be removed. At least until it is reliable. If the decision to leave it out was "planning by budget", it was a wrong decision. Such systems need to have everything possible to make them reliable, no matter what the cost.

Very, very pretty car. But Harry should talk to a competent sound engineer about where he mounts his microphone. He's got it on his left lapel, and everythime he turns his head to his left, the sound of his voice changes. Amateur...

Or just buy the part for the later bikes and fit it to your V11. https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/ablassrohr-kupplung/item-2-1031196-05606630-.html You need part #8, the screw, and two of part #9, the seals, as well. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&h=MG&m=210&t=5004#a165229 I got one for my Le Mans, and bleeding the clutch now works like this: Note: I didn't figure all that out by myself. The tip came from this forum.

It's only for looks. This is an aftermarket copy, I gather: https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/nml-anlasserabdeckung-v11-valeo-grau/item-2-1021803-01733330-.html and also, like the original, no longer available. The one on mine, original I believe, doesn't have the circles between the screw holes, but is otherwise pretty much the same. I don't like it much. It is very shiny, and looks a bit tacky to my taste. I was going to leave it off, but put it back on because the rather large and mostly silver sticker on the starter motor annoyed me more than the tacky-placky cover.

He should have seen that coming. Trucks are only allowed to do 80 km/h on the Autobahn. Everyone knows that. There are far too many drivers who seem to think that anything over the speed they choose to drive at is far too fast. There are also far too many who seem to believe that putting on the blinker to change lanes gives them right of way, although the road law states that the onus is on the driver who is changing lanes to make sure he doesn't hinder anyone. All in all, that means when you are approaching a bunch of cars with a truck in the middle, you "know" that some prick is going to pull out in front of you. If you get past without it happening, you were lucky. Don't get me wrong, that's not old-fart-preaching. It is just real-world experience. The law states that the bloke on the bike was in the right. My experience with "my accident" makes me think that, despite that, the damages settlement will probably give him 25 or 30% of the blame. In my case, I was overtaking a line of cars, and someone pulled out in front of me to turn into a side road. Techinically, I was 100% in the right, but the blame was determined at 25% for me and 75% for the other bloke. Anyway, what I'm getting at is that anyone who has spent any time at all on the Autobahn here should have seen that coming. It happens all the time, i.e. that some idiot will pull out in front of much faster traffic. The bloke on the bike was legally in the right, but I suspect he was too keen on getting a good video to concentrate on riding sensibly. And by that, I don't mean "not at 300 km/h", I mean simply observing the dynamic of the traffic ahead.

So the current MV Augusta design department is trying to dock on to a "classic style".

You could well be right there.

You probably know this already, but for the sake of having said it: Whilst it is apart, it would most likely be prudent to have the heads done (valve seats freshened up etc. ) It would be wise to weigh the new pistons and the old pistons. If there is any significant weight difference, perhaps an engine balance should be considered.

Here's the link again, set to start at 2:08. The bike that comes up three bikes later at about 2:18 is a Norge. That must be it, I think.

I have those on the Kawasaki GTR 1000 (Concourse in the USA) that I haven't managed to sell yet. I was quite impressed with them. Interesting, that they have sizes to fit the V11. Maybe I should look into that.

That was fun. It got interesting when he started in on the triplets, but having the music underneath helps keep you head straight.

I would have been prepared to bet that you would suggest that. But you're right, of course. That would be the slickest option.

In Melbourne before the move, I had the Z900, and two Kawasaki 2-Stroke triples. One almost complete, but buggered, and the other a basket case. And everything else that one accumulates over the course of 15 years or so. I made the move with a backpack, and one carton of stuff that I sent ahead. And AUD2.000. Fresh start, more or less. I dread to think of what it would mean to move back. That is not impossible, but... Currently 4 motorcycles, the car, the household goods. Anyway, we were talking about the advantages of high quality leathers here.

No mate. I moved to Germany in 1996. I bought the jacket when I was in Melbourne over Christmas and New Year 2005 / 2006. That was a kind of "10 year anniversary" visit. The receipt came home to Germany with me in the luggage. I'm pretty sure I wore the jacket during the trip back, because it would have made the luggage too heavy.

I must have got a good one. You got me thinking, and I went looking and found the receipt. Looks like the jacket is just short of 18 years old. I did the sums: AUD 570.- purchase plus around AUD 130.- for the repairs after the accident means I'm coming in at just under $40.- a year for the jacket, and getting cheaper every year. In an attempt to get back to the original post: @LaGrasta, I hope you are able to enjoy your new jacket for at least as long as I have mine.

Without knowing exactly which screws they were, I've noticed at times whilst looking for parts in the lists at, for instance, Stein-Dinse or Wendel Motoraeder in Berlin, that the screws are sometimes available, and sometimes not. If you want "Guzzi original", go looking at one of the above mentioned, or an equivalent in your country. NML in the Netherlands occurs to me as well. However, if you get the screws from a Guzzi dealer, be prepared for some interesting prices. For instance from Wendel €5.60 for one of the tank cap screws, presumably the longer one. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/tcei-schraube_gu98690230-p-1037361.html?ref=expl My opinion : they're just screws. For anything that is not a critical application, I go looking for a screw with a head that I find attractive in the place in question. My tank has a Hepco-Becker tank ring on it, and the screws holding it came from here and cost about €0.90 each, if I recall correctly. https://www.fedorgross.de/ From there not because they are cheap, but because the shop is about 10 minutes walk from where I live, and I can go in there and have them show me various different options. I've had occasions where I went in, talked to them for nearly fifteen minutes, and came out with a couple of M4 screws for fifty cents in total, and they are quite ok with that. Anyway, the point is, I reckon you would be paying a premium price for "original Guzzi" to no particular advantage. As I said, the ones you have circled are just screws, they don't hold the wheels on. The pretty screw heads for the three holding the dash might be harder to source, but not impossible. Take out one of each type, measure them, and go looking. If you don't have a shop within reach, there are any number of screw suppliers in the internet. PS: As I indicated further up, the tank cap screws are in two different lengths, three of each, alternating long-short-long-short around the ring. That surprised me, but is obviously original. Another PS: the screws holding the dash screw into "silent blocks" that are screwed into the carrier. When you take them out, pay attention to what is really coming loose, the screw or the silent block.

To make that sort of decision, you have to know who is breathing down your neck. Those blokes don't have mirrors. My limited experience with driving in circles, not even races, just "training sessions", tells me you don't pay that much attention to who exactly it is behind you. You're only interested in staying in front of them.

Isn't it? In those days, the Tankerville was a Jazz locale. I was in there for a Vince Jones show. A fellow student at the uni. used to play guitar for him.