audiomick

You have to always assume that on-one else on the road has seen you.

They already have. I don't know how long it is likely to take, but I'm pretty sure Bernd has at least started thinking about that. As far as hosting the programme on a server goes, I wouldn't want that. That would require internet access in the garage, which I don't have. I think that would be a stopper for a relevant number of potential users.

Yes, but I was thinking more about the fork diameter.

Yes No, because docc is right (again...) so all the bases are covered. I don't have those bars, but according to the web-site, they are built so that they can be moved from above the triple-clamp to below in a matter of minutes. What I don't know is if they will fit all V11 Models, or only from the Le Mans onwards.

Very expensive, I know, but anyway.... https://shop.daes-mototec.com/de/Fahrwerk-7/Lenker/DAeS-Lenkerstummel-Kit-fuer-MOTO-GUZZI-V11-Le-Mans--alle-Mod--V11-Coppa-Italia---Scura---Naked-02-.html

No, definitely not. When it's hot, you have to keep pouring the water in. Yes, I find that with the leathers, too. My favourite at the moment is a very old pure cotton skivvy that I have. Because it is so old, it is very thin. The roll neck keeps the leather collar of the jacket off my skin, and the long sleeves help too. It absorbs the sweat (mostly), and if the jacket is open a bit it thereby helps keep cool, at least as long as I'm moving. The bonus is, the same combination is also good when it is slightly cool, i.e. good in the heat all afternoon, and in to the evening when it starts to cool down.

Bear in mind that Bernd isn't working on Guzzidiag in order to sell something. He is doing it because he is interested. He aims to keep it as simple and robust as possible, and only releases a new version when he is sure he has fixed some known bugs. You wont see "fantastic new features that nobody wants".

I don't think you need to be concerned. Remember, Guzzidiag is an executable file, and doesn't need installation. That means trying out a newer version won't disturb the previous installation, because it was never installed in that sense, it was only ever just executed. Leave the older version on the computer, get the new one and run it instead. If it doesn't work, the old one is still there. You can even put them both in the same folder on the computer. The one you click on is the one that will run.

Whereby "some" a very "dynamic" term is.

Poor Norge. It looks like it has had a hard life.

I searched for Caig here in Germany. Practically not available. The place I bought it from specialises in repairing and maintaining tube amplifiers.

100° F = 37.8° C = a normal summer day where I grew up in northern Victoria. For Melbourne, ok, a bit warm. I have to admit, northern Victoria isn't particularly humid, and I know that does make a difference. I'm not trying to be a smart arse, rather merely trying to show that I do know what those sort of temperatures mean. The hottest day that I know for sure how warm it was saw 46° C. I spent that day in the shade of a tree on the shore of a lake. I do own a vented textile jacket, but I don't really like it. Too sweaty. If I can manage it, I prefer the leather jacket. Even on the GTR 1000 in the high 30's. That bike funnels heat up from the motor on to the rider. Good in winter, hard work in traffic in the city on a warm day.

I spent a couple of relaxing hours in the garage today. The first task was "extracting" the starter circuit from the circuit diagramme out of the workshop manual. It is only a rough pencil drawing, but here it is for posterity: Having done the drawing, I had a bit of a poke around with the multimeter. No success in as much as I didn't find anything that looked like a problem. Still using the suspect battery, contact 30 of relay #1 showed the same voltage as the plus pole of the battery, as did the wire from contact 87 of that relay that plugs on to the starter motor to switch the solenoid. That was all without a load, i.e. with the relay not plugged in (for contact 30), or with the wire not plugged in to the starter. Theoretically, the voltage at the solenoid could be different if the wire were connected to the load. However, I've just had the starter completely apart, and it looks almost brand new inside, so I don't believe there is anything amiss there. I've got the suspect battery on the charger at the moment, and will put it back in on Wednesday and see how it behaves. I'm not confident that simply charging the battery will be the solution; I reckon the battery has probably done it's dash, but I'll give it one last chance.

We got both kinds, and the Beatles. The lady sings well.

Leather. Black, of course.

Well done, that man.

Even on your aeroplane?

It's not just the condition of the battery. It doesn't fit right. It is mounted with the battery poles to the left of the bike, with some "creative" wiring to make the connections. All safe, but I don't like it much. Any excuse to get it back to original.

No, mate. Haven't got three weeks spare time.... Seriously, I'm familiar with the concept. It also affected various CARC models, even if the specific cause and cure wasn't exactly the same. I want to see for myself exactly where the Volts are going missing, but the knowledge that the power supply to the starter solenoid is marginal from the factory is in the front of my mind. Yes, that is true. By the way, with "searching" I meant "testing". On general principles, changing the battery first would be the right thing to do, no question. It is almost 100% certainly past its use by date. Why I might do some testing with it: I might try and charge it, and see if it takes a charge at all, and if it does, how long it holds it and how much power it can really deliver. Probably none. That is just curiosity a the behaviour of a dying battery. I would prefer to be not using a brand new battery for a long period of time for testing, possibly with multiple activations of the starter. If the old one can limp through that, I'd rather use it. That is not intended as advice for anyone else, or an argument against changing a battery that is known to be bad, or even just suspect. New battery is the way to go. However, although I am not an electrician, I understand what the multimeter is telling me (mostly...), and enough about the basics to draw usable conclusions even from a half flat battery. The dead battery, in the worst case, perhaps wont be enough to turn the starter, but it will suffice to show me high resistance contacts, for instance.

Goes away when you pull in the clutch lever? Loud and disturbing noise? That's normal. It's the clutch. It rattles when it is not engaged.

I got the starter motor back together today, and put it back in. Still works. But the starting problem isn't fixed. So I did what I should have done before I started pulling things apart: got out the multi-volti and started seeing how many Volts were where. First thing was the battery. I mentioned early on in this thread that I was assuming that the battery was ok. Maybe it was, and has been standing around doing nothing for too much of the intervening time, or maybe it wasn't. Today I had about 12.45 V with the ignition off, about 11.9 V with the ignition on, and I saw some "9.x" Voltage readings during start attempts. In my book, that is a good battery. Good for using as a door-stop, for instance. Given that the current battery is installed 90° rotated from the original, which has led to some slightly creative solutions to get the wires to the battery poles, I am going to go looking for a replacement battery. Second thing was the voltage reading at the connector to the starter solenoid. Sometimes it is more or less the "9.x V" that is present across the battery terminals when starting the bike. Sometimes, however, it is only 5.x V. Close to six volts, but under. That is when it doesn't start, funnily enough.... So, further testing and investigation is necessary, but at this point it looks like either the relay (No. 1 not pulling on properly, or an intermittent, or at least non-constant. fault in the wiring. The search continues...