audiomick

Indeed.

I just flew over a couple of german articles on the subject. As background, Germany has, for very understandable reasons, very strict laws about "Volksverhetzung", i.e. "incitement of the people", and wearing or displaying any kind of symbol from the Nazi Party is completely forbidden. In the german articles it was mentioned that Waters is active in a political group that criticises the politics of the State of Israel. I have the feeling that he (Waters) might be justified in maintaining that the accusations are a deliberate attempt to discredit him and thereby discredit his political activities. Political interest groups trying to exploit the particularly strict laws in Germany to misinterpret and discredite what is actually satire. Incidentally, I don't expect the charges to stick. The authorities here must investigate such accusations, and that means an official investigation must be started. They are, however, not stupid, and Water's Lawyers are no doubt very good. We'll see...

You shouldn't have to do that. Guzzidiag runs on Linux and Mac computers as well.

Have a look here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19641-basic-guzzidiag-tutorial-for-v11/?do=findComment&comment=288537 Guzzidiag can't measure the mV at fully closed, because the ECU doesn't deliver a reading for it.

Me. But each to his own....

Yeah, I know. It was more like thinking out loud. So, I went back and had a closer look at the workshop manual here: https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf On page 187 there is a diagramme of the fuel system for the models with the external fuel pump. Amongst other things, the text says i.e., the pressure regulator is the last thing on the way back in to the tank. In the diagramme, it is obvious that the connector to the injectors is a T-joint, i.e. one hose upstream, one downstream, and a hole in the side into the injector. That means, after the filter up to before the regulating valve is a simple open loop. Swapping the hoses output filter <-> input regulator must be completely irrelevant. On page 538 is a diagramme of the system with the pump in the tank. Once again, an open loop from one connector to the other, and the text on that page is almost identical with the text on page 187. Page 542 shows the fuel pump. The second photo clearly shows a dark coloured and a light coloured connector, so one red and one white. The first photo shows the fuel pump assembly. There, one can see the connection fuel pump - fuel filter - dark coloured connector. The pressure regulator is marked "C", and can only be on the tank side of the light coloured connector. Therefore, it must be irrelevant which way around the external lines are connected to the tank. Glad I had a good look at that. You learn something every day.

Hi Al. Regarding colours, I'll have to look at mine again. I thought they were both red, but I'm not absolutely sure. I'm surprised that you say no one has mentioned them breaking here. I've seen that mentioned a number of times in geman language forums. That is why I bought spares... I'm not sure it it is important which way around they are connected. That would depend on whether the circuit has any valves in it, I guess. I saw on a drawing somewhere that one (the one to the outside, if I remember correctly...) is the feed for the injectors, and the other is the return back to the tank. If the circuit past the injectors is just an open loop, I suppose it wouldn't matter which way around they are connected, but I really don't know.

I believe they are both the same number. Check the parts lists to be sure. If yours are two different colours, I would assume that one has been replaced (the white one...). I gather there is also a Ford item that is white but otherwise identical.

Good, just replace them (the rubber blocks). They'll then probably hold another twenty years. You're right in your assessment: the thread inserts in the front of the block have pulled out and are on the screws that hold the dashboard. As far as Loctite goes, I wouldn't bother. Thinking about it, though, I believe mine has Nylock (or similar, i.e. self-locking) nuts on the back end of the isolation block. That makes sense, and is very easy to do if the nuts on there aren't self-locking.

Hang on, a Z 1300 was never bad. I fell in love with it the first time I saw one. That was about 1985. At the time, the "around Australia" record set by Ross Atkin in 1982 was current https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_records_for_fastest_motorcycle_ride_around_Australia In the other direction, I was at a motorcycle rally one time, and there was the obligatiory "slow race", i.e. the winner is the last over the line. It was held over about 50 yards in a clearing in the bush. The bloke who won it was on a Z1300. I was impressed. Massively.

That's about right. On mine (2002 V11 Le Mans), and I assume the V11s are all the same, the instruments are mounted with three screws that screw in to isolation blocks. You might know them as "silent blocks", i.e. a rubber block that has a threaded shaft on the back to mount it to the frame, and a threaded hole on the front to screw the mounting screw for the instruments in to. The purpose of this method of mounting is to isolate the instruments a bit from the vibrations. What came loose on yours, the screw at the front, or the nut on the back? If the rubbers got too old, they might have broken. In that case, replace them and it will be good for a long while. The rubbers being old wont affect the screws. The threaded insert for the screw on the front is metal, and the threaded shaft on the back is also metal. If the problem was that the nut on the back or the screw on the front came out, the solution is to check that they are tight occasionally. Maybe a bit of Loctite or something similar on the threads, but not the permanent sort. Tighten up the hose again. Maybe renew the sealing washer on the banjo bolt. Top up the fluid, and bleed the system. It is not that hard to do, but can be fiddly. Explaining it takes a while. There are lots of videos on Youtube about how to do it. The principle is the same for any vehicle. However, if you have never done it, get someone to help you and show you how to do it, or take the bike in to a workshop and have them do it. It is not that hard when you know how, but it is your brakes. It wants to be done properly. I was fortunate to have been shown how to do it by a mate of mine who is a trained mechanic. I think trying to figure out how to do it by yourself without informed help is not such a good idea. PS: in case you don't know the term, " bleed the brakes" means "get the air out of the system". I checked deepl.com for a translation. The french is "purger les freins", and it offered the alternative translations "purge des freins" and "la purge des freins". DeepL can't do flemish, but the dutch is "ontlucht de remmen", alternatively "de remmen ontluchten" or "de remmen te ontluchten"

Spinesaurus Rex: a V11 Le Mans with the motor mods that I would like to make, but will probably never be able to afford.

Spinisfaction: the feeling afterwards.

Spineticipation: the feeling that arises shortly after deciding to go for a ride on a spine frame in the near future

Spinachronism: individual characteristics of a motorcycle that, on a generic motorcycle, may be considered anything from "not quite state of the art" to "downright old-fashioned", but in harmonious combination result in an irresistable appeal.

I've just been in the garage and pulled the starter motor off. I only got it half way apart, and then realised I had to come back home and read the instructions that @MartyNZ kindly provided properly. Nevertheless, I reckon the starter motor has been replaced at some point. The bracket for the "decorative" cover is held on to the body of the starter with cable ties, which I assume is not original. I'm contemplating leaving that off altogether, far too shiny for me, a little pointless, and in the end only excess weight. Anyway, up to where I got, it all looks almost new. Sufficient fresh, clean grease on the moving bits, no dirt. I can turn the motor by hand quite easily. If I don't discover magnets without clips inside, I have to assume that it is absolutely ok. One question: the number on it is DEM D6RA210. It is a Valeo, not a copy. Does anyone know for sure if that is original or not?

For purely selfish reasons I went off and had a bit of a look. It seems that both Wendel and Stein Dinse have something on offer. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/rear-fender-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020310_300602031009.html https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=en&h=MG&m=220&t=5367 Perhaps it is worth checking out the "big" Guzzi places in the country you live in. It seems there are still replacements floating around.

Thanks Marty.

Well adrift from the topic, but while we're on the subject of blokes on silly Kawasakis riding in circles, look at this. The link is set, I think, to start at 5:27. Before that he is just idling through the pits. The bike is a H1R, apparently.

Yes. Very pretty. I still want one. Some interesting photos here (sorry it is on facebook...): https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=590441511059419&set=gary-thomas-at-bathurst-1979

I was at "my" mechanic's workshop the other day with the V11 Le Mans. She obliged by showing her party trick with the starter button in his presence. He reckoned that it is most likely the starter motor itself, i.e. it is probably full of crud which prevents it from making the necessary contact in the starter motor solenoid. He started to talk about cleaning it out, but very quickly suggested simply buying a new one. I have also seen a few comments here that suggest just replacing the starter motor rather than buggerising around trying to fix an old one. I am fully aware that it is not hard to find a cheap replacement that possibly came off the same production line as the Valeo starter motor, but just doesn't have "Valeo" written on it, but rather some other manufacturer. Nevertheless, I'm curious about what the insides look like, and cleaning out the existing one would be cheaper if it can be saved. So... how hard is it to pull the starter motor apart? Is there anything in there that is likely to go "boing" and dissapear into the darkest corner of the garage? Is it easy to put back together? Is there any mystical black magic knowlege necessary to get it apart, cleaned and back together such that it still works afterwards?

Yes. As I mentioned further up, that is the plan of the moment. In fact I was in the garage today, and all set to try out the procedure with pumping the tank empty using Guzzidiag to activate the pump. I have the connectors and some fuel line to plug onto the fuel pump. For anyone who doesn't know: unplug the power to the fuel pump and start the bike. Let it run until it runs out fuel. There is then no more pressure in the fuel lines, and they are easy to disconnect. Pull the fuel lines off, and plug on a bit of fuel line with a connector, start Guzzidiag and activate the fuel pump to empty the tank. Catch the fuel in a fuel canister. It was expensive to buy, and makes a mess on the garage floor. Problem was, the laptop that I have prepared for Guzzidiag exploits froze up when I started it in the garage. I think it probably tried to run an update when I started it. Whatever, it didn't react to the touchpad, and I had to force a shutdown. When I started it later at home, everything worked. I hate Windows. Having failed to achieve that, I greased the sidestand to make myself feel better, and poked around and looked at few things. I'm even more convinced now that the oil leak is coming out of the breather hose. All very oily there.

Yeah, for me too. I still have my Kawasaki 1000 GTR. Great bike, actually, but very heavy. It's up for sale soon.

Yes, I think so too, without being 100% sure. One way to find out is to burn a shaving of the material. Doesn't need to be much. ABS burns with a yellow flame, and makes lots of black smoke. The other indicator is the noise it makes when it is dropped or hit. ABS makes a fairly clear clattering noise, almost bell-like. I don't know if there are any in english, but I have found a couple of videos in german on Youtube (from nerds, mostly...) about identifying the various plastics. ABS can be welded with a hot-air gun. I made a succesful attempt on a V35 Imola fairing. I got the ABS "welding rods" from a local hardware store. The hot-air gun needs a nozzle to concentrate the air stream. The one I have has about a 1/2" opening, and allows one to "focus" on the spot to be heated. One should open the crack to a Vee shape with a miniature grinding wheel before welding. My result looked fairly messy. Ideally, one would practice on something else before attempting the real thing. Nevertheless, I was able to smooth it off adequately on the outside to have it painted, and it held until the fairing was finally destroyed when the bike fell off the side stand. Again. The current fairing on that bike is the third one I've had...

Ok, got it. This one: https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/search.html?grp=&searchStr=30157400 As a matter of interest, would it be feasible to replace that with a piece of plain tubing, or are the pre-formed bends in the hose "absolutely necessary"?