audiomick

Further info: This one is apparently the same, except that it isn't red: https://www.ebay.de/itm/394222620827?fits=Make%3AFord&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D246078%26meid%3Da3bda077b0cb4463b5168fdf76300273%26pid%3D101224%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D275676240672%26itm%3D394222620827%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1 Since that is an e-bay ad that will probably go defunct one day, the Ford part number is 1072003 And (probably) the same part at Wendel for a "slightly" higher price.... https://wendelmotorraeder.de/anschluss-benzinpumpe-90-weiss_ap8104192-p-3037788.html?ref=expl Edit: Stein-Dinse apparently has a similarly priced option, and a less expensive one (with a very long delivery time...): https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/search.html?grp=&searchStr=AP8104192

As it happens, I bought a ticket today. My knees don't creak. Yet. The problems are in the neck (slipped disc...), but if I pay attention to how I sit, I can keep that under control. I reckon I could ride that thing.

No, it's not. Several people have mentioned that on the german forum I'm active in. I gather the front can regularly take a little time to connect. The rear is apparently better, but can also be sluggish.

Yes, good question for those in the USA. It's a Ford United Kingdom part. Mine came from the UK, too. I think those in North America would have to find a dealer who is willing to play along, or order on the 'net.

Wendel has this: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/batterie-12v-13a_gu01704501-p-1025230.html?ref=expl Stein Dinse has that one as well, and this: https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/batterie-12v-13ah-genesis-reinblei-zinn/item-2-1112694-300202001-.html That is only the result of a search there (I have been looking for my own interest recently...). I haven't tried either of them (yet).

And you're still alive. Well done!! Ok, I'm just jealous....

What I did today: picked up these from the place I ordered them from. I placed the order based on a tip from a V11 specific german language forum. They look like what I've seen in pictures here and there, and fit the coupling from the fuel lines that I bought as a Guzzi part. Observant readers will be able to glean from the photo where I got them, what the part number there is, and how much I paid for them. Given that they are apparently a little harder to find than hen's teeth, I'm happy. By the way, they got my name wrong. Somehow Germans never understand me when I say "Michael". Mostly they hear "Marco". "Marcel" is a new one.... After that, I took her out and washed the oil off the sides of the sump at a car wash. A subsequent ride and dusting with talcum powder was supposed to show me where the oil was getting out. Unfortunately there was no positive result. I am now tending to suspect the source of the leak within the clutch housing. Bugger....

Here is the picture that Revilo put in his post. His link is to a GIMP image. Not everyone has GIMP, so I exported it as a JPEG. @Revilo bear with it. Best of luck with the restoration.

Probably not complete, but the motor, gearbox and shaft would be nifty for driving a water pump.

Welcome to the forum.

You're right!! Far too expensive. Half the bloody motorbike is missing.

Who nicked the fairing? And the clip-ons...

What you wrote about "consistenly repeatable" sounds a lot like you are on the right track. That is one of the fundamentals of isolating problems. Why not? It is so easy to type: left forefinger,right ring finger, left ring finger. Nothing to it.

What he said. I haven't done it, but I have read a real lot of what Bernd (author of the abovementioned programs) has written in the german forum. One thing in addition to "make sure you have saved your original map before you do anything else. Really sure..." : Bernd recommends having the (fully charged) bike battery on a smart charger when you are doing anything with Guzzidiag and particularly with the reader and writer, and use a power supply for the laptop you are using as well. The one thing you really, really do not want to happen is that a battery (bike or computer...) goes flat during the process. The result of that can easily be this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brick_(electronics)

Ok, I'm convinced.

docc, you have, of course, excluded the possibility that the multimeter has a dickey connection? No offense meant, but someone has to ask the dumb questions...

If in doubt about the rollers, take off a rocker cover and have a look. It should look like this if it has rollers:

Anyone who tries to go there will notice immediately, but here a heads-up: Stein-Dinse has shut down their old online address at Stein-dinse.biz . The site is still there, and the new adress is visible there, but it is only for reference now. The new site is at https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/ so if anyone is planning on ordering something from them, you may as well go straight there. The search by parts lists is still available, and actually improved. It is to be found by scrolling down a bit; the icon is on the left of the page.

You can do it docc. I have faith in you.

Yes, I saw that too. As I said, I'm not fussed about it not being included as I have enough of them already. However, I assume they would probably send me one if I complained about it. Two good reasons to buy there, I reckon. They're staying on the case, and they seem to have a good record.

I sent one of the Lonelec KL-1TALIA adaptors mentioned above to Bernd, the Guzzidaig author, so he could have a look at it. The first thing he did was to open it up and have a look inside. His report was as follows: I wondered about the USB cable myself. The ordering process involved ticking boxes regarding the type of USB connection, and I had the distinct impression there would be a cable provided. I didn't query that though, as I have USB cables lying around here that I can use. So, anyway, it looks like one can use the adaptor without any great worries.

Yes, I'm aware of that trick. I'm not sure if we have talcum powder in the house, but I dare say I'll find something appropriate. Thanks for the tips, everyone.

The bike is a 2002 Le Mans, wrinkly paint on the motor, 15 M ECU, 43mm forks with rebound damping on both legs. I've added the date to my profile. I haven't had a closer look at the leak yet. What I noticed was "very well oiled" on the right hand side of the sump. No oil above the sump spacer. I can't say how the left hand side looks. The oil on the sump that I observed would be, perhaps, consistent with a leak low down on the right hand side of the timing cover, or perhaps towards the front out of the sump spacer gasket. I'm not likely to get into the garage for the next couple of days. If I do, I'll have a closer look and report. And yes, almost certainly motor oil. I know what gearbox oil smells like, and I didn't smell that.

Ok. The seal I mentioned is #19 on this drawing https://wendelmotorraeder.de/motorgehaeuse-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020330_300602033001.html I wasn't aware of the one you are talking about. I wish I had been. It only costs about €1.60, but the postage is probably about €5,-. Maybe I can get a suitable one from "my" mechanic. Or order some more stuff to make the postage worthwhile.... But before I order anything else, I need to have a closer look at where the oil is coming from. If that O-ring is the culprit, there must be oil coming out directly behind the alternator cover. If it is the seal, that would also be the case, I think. If it is the timing cover gasket, the leak must be further back, i.e. no oil traces from under the front cover. While I'm at it, does one need a puller to get the alternator off? According to the PDF workshop book I have, it should just come off. I have in mind the alternator on the V35 Imola. That is the "classic" Bosch alternator, and needs some persuasion to come off. Going by the drawing that Marty posted, the one in the V11 sits on a straight shaft and has a key to hold it in place. Should be easier to get off, I think, but am I right?