audiomick

I discovered the other day that the V11 Le Mans is dropping a bit of oil. Not much, about a 2" spot on the garage floor after about a week or 10 days. My first thought was the sump gasket, but then I remembered that a very well informed person had predicted that the timing cover gasket and or the seal on the shaft to the alternator would start to leak sooner or later. So I'm taking bets, what do the well informed and experienced people here reckon: is the sump gasket more likely, or the timing cover gasket and/or that seal? I've got my bases covered, as I ordered gaskets for both and the seal today. I'd just like to know where to look first. The bi-annual roadworthiness inspection is due this month, so it would be good if I don't have to mess around too much to get the leak sorted.

Comment: I wrote further up that the bike is very pretty. On the downside, when the seller starts the text with "Limited edition and collectable Rosso Mandello", it can be taken as an idication that he thinks it is worth more than it really is, or he is punting for more than he knows it is worth.

Task bar: the bar, most likely across the bottom of the screen if it hasn't been moved, that shows symbols for what is runnning, the clock over in one corner and so on. Windows icon: the button on the left one clicks on to go to a programm and open it, and shut down the computer, amongst other things. You might know it as "the start button". At least up till Windows 10, a right-click on that instead of a left-click opens a list that includes the device manager. Edit: apparently one can open the device manager using the "search" box that windows puts in the task bar if you let it. Here is a video made by the man who wrote Guzzidiag. You can see him type "geräte manager", or at least start to. On a computer set to show english, type "device manager" instead. https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/FTDI_Win10_Install.mp4 The Video is from the Guzzidiag website here: https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/

Yes, do that. As I wrote, the computer needs an internet connection to find the driver (but not for Guzzidiag to run once the driver is correctly installed). I'm going to bed now, it is after 4 in the morning here. I wish you success.

Leave out Guzzidiag for a minute, and go and look in the Device Manager. You haven't said, but I am assuming you are using Windows 10. You can find the device manager by right-clicking on the Windows symbol in the task bar. Look at these two pages from Lonelec. They show generic information about Windows and dealing with drivers, not specific to their adapters. https://support.lonelec.com/pc-tech/finding-com-port/ https://support.lonelec.com/pc-tech/manual-driver-install/ With the information there, you should be able to see: if the correct driver has been installed, which Com port has been assingned to it or if the correct driver has not been installed, in which case you won't find a Com port that works with Guzzidiag.

I've only done this once, but.... Did you plug in the OBD adapter whilst the computer had an internet connection and let it get a driver before you tried to use Guzzidiag? Questions before that: which adapter are you using? Is it a Windos computer? Which Windows? The relevance of the adapter is that it needs a chip from FDTi. That is the good word from the bloke who wrote the program. I have an adapter from Lonelec which does, according to the manufacturer's website, have this type of chip. What I did was: turn on the computer at home where it has an internet connection through my wi-fi at home. Plug in the adapter. Let Windows go off and find the driver. One of two Windows 10 computers just got on with it, the other one didn't find the driver. The adapter turned up in the device manager under "other" as an unknown device. On that one, which is the one that I will be using in the garage, I followed the instructions on the Lonelec site to download the appropriate driver and install it manually. Note: you don't need an internet connection to run Guzzidiag when everything is set up, but you do to install / download the driver for the adapter. Answer those questions, and we'll see what answers come up. There are people here in the forum who have more experience than me with Guzzidiag. If something comes up that for some reason can't be solved, I have direct contact with the bloke who wrote the program through a german forum. If all else fails, I could try asking him directly for advice.

Nice photos. Pity about the container ship blocking the view. Still, it serves well to accentuate the svelte figure of the V11

Save the site: https://guzzitek.org/ there is a very impressive collection of Guzzi workshop manuals, owners manuals and parts lists there. Navigating the site takes a bit of getting used to, but it is worth the effort.

Just had another look at that ad for the Rosso Mandello. An old man who is selling because he is getting too old to ride it. Bought it from the first owner, his neighbour across the street. Attests to love the bike but "it needs a younger rider". At the very least, go an have a look at it. Sounds like a very good prospect to me.

But that is very pretty. And the rocker covers are easy to change....

Yeah, there are some ads that one is not really motivated to answer, aren't there.

That's pretty bassic....

Centauro, wheels on page 25 & 26 of the document (according to the document reader...) https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1000/Centauro_1997-1999_PL(GB).pdf early V11 models, page 41 &42 https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11Sport-RossoMandello_1999-2001_062011_PL(GB).pdf Have a look for yourself, but it seems to me that the answer to your question is "yes, they should fit".

No, definitely not. Guzzi Diag ist an .exe file, that is, it is an "executable file". I does not need to be installed, it just has to be on the computer in a folder somewhere. Double click on it, and it starts. The worst that can happen is that Windows in its ultimate wisdom might consider the program to be a risk. Click on "more options" or whatever it is on the pop-up, tell Windows to go and fork itself, and the program runs. No internet necessary, no bs. It is a very honest, no frills programme that just does what it is supposed to do, and nothing else. PS, no, I don't like Microsoft products. Not even a little bit. The laptop that is designated for garage duty is going to become a Linux machine as soon as I have salvaged all the data off it. Guzzidiag is very happy running on a Linux machine.

Ah, wasn't thinking of that. I had the steel one in the V35 Imola in mind.

Yes. The "Z" stands for the german word "Zubehör", i.e. "Accesories". In the Stein Dinse jargon, that means a part from a 3rd-party supplier. I have that information from a Stein Dinse employee who was quite active in the german forum for a while. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=464485

I think you might be right there. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/advanced_search_result.php?inc_subcat=1&keywords=01114390&x=0&y=0&categories_id=

Not "may", a remote mic makes it easy to solve the issues. Look at the pictures here: https://rycote.com/microphone-windshield-shock-mount/cyclone/ Don't buy a Rycote. They are the market leaders, and really expensive. Use the pictures for inspiration. You wrote somewhere here somewhere: "that's what I do, I build things". I'm sure you would be capable of putting something together if you want to. Note the shock mount. A clip for the mic, and rubber bands holding the clip would do it, like the mic mount I posted further up. Note the cage around the mic. You should be able to solder up something out of heavy gauge fencing wire or welding wire. The first attempt for the "cloth" around the cage would be nylon stockings. A couple of layers, probably, for your purpose. If that is not enough, something shaggy on top that looks like this https://www.thomann.de/de/rycote_cyclone_windjammer.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp86xl7fp_gIVRIKDBx3kDw2eEAQYAyABEgJOm_D_BwE Use your imagination. If you can be bothered....

Obviously. Those things were enormous amounts of fun. One mate had a 750 for a while, another had a 350. I actually owned a 250, complete but not running, and a not quite complete 400 basket case. Never got them running though, unfortunately. I moved to Germany instead, and passed them both on to the mate with the 350.

One wouldn't have to hit it very hard to get a permanent mark, but yeah, ok. Alternatives that don't stress any bearings or what have you: a light touch with a drill or something along those lines. Just thinking in terms of a mark that is still there should the paint flake off.

The quick and easy solution for you is, I reckon, find the TDC positions, and put a paint spot on the flywheel (maybe two different colours or something...) in a suitable spot visible through the sight hole. Since the gearbox is out, and you wrote that the original markings are not really legible anymore, you might also be able to use a centre punch to put a permanent mark in the appropriate positions.

That doesn't sound like just wind noise to me. To combat the wind noise, you could try sticking/taping/fastening a thick bit of foam rubber over the microphone opening of whatever it is you are using to make the video, or over/around the mic. Also, getting the camera out of the prop wash would help. Either further out along the wing, or further in into the wind shadow of the perspex "cockpit". However, what I can hear in the video sounds more like clipping, i.e. I reckon the motor is just too loud for the input. Going by the extensive noise reduction measures that I can see on the exhaust system in the video, I think that "too loud" might easily be possible. But then again, the "too loud" might also be the wind noise from the prop wash. On top of all of that, at the end of the video where the motor is off, I can hear what sounds like mechanical transmission of noise through the camera mount. This might easily be also contributing to the clipping when the motor is running. Try mounting the camera in/on some sort of isolation block, or take an inspiration from this microphone mount. The "strings" are rubber bands. If you can be bothered... The video is good.

Same problem with the small block motors, but only three possible positions. Still only one that is right, though. The last time I bolted mine on (the flywheel, I mean... ) I set the motor to one or the other of the TDC positions, and matched the appropriate mark on the flywheel to the sighting hole in the bell housing. I think that is more or less the only way to be sure of getting it right.

The english, of course. Who else?

From the Wiki article that I linked to: Docc apparently really does know everything.