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audiomick

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Everything posted by audiomick

  1. Regarding testing relays, a bloke in the German forum posted a link for a tester on e-Bay. I think it was this one. The price is not too steep, and if it does what it claims to, it might be a good bit of kit to have. I haven't got one (yet), so I can't say if it is any good or not. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803502236070.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
  2. Hmmm, it doesn't really surprise me that they didn't want to disclose the source for parts they were selling. @pete roper : thanks for that post. It is always good to get information from someone who is really well informed, and not trying to sell something.
  3. docc, I think you need to get out into the fresh air a bit more often.
  4. Yeah, that can happen when Germans who don't speak English on a daily basis try to do so. I think it has to do with thinking in German and translating the thoughts to English. Formulations that are perfectly acceptable in German sometimes seem blunt and/or arrogant when they are directly translated to English. I haven't had anything to do with the business directly, but they seem to have a fairly good reputation here.
  5. silly fairing, and where are the clip-ons?
  6. I dare say it'll have more torque than standard, but not neccesarily a great deal more peak power. They seem to go looking for torque at Dynotec, for instance here: https://www.dynotec.de/modelle/Stelvio 1200 4V.html This is what the text next to the graph says: I gather that is for a 2V / cylinder Motor, but a quick look around the site reveals a trend towards "two-stage" tuning, with the first stage concentrating on torque, see also the pages for the 1200 Sport and the Quota. https://www.dynotec.de/modelle/1200 Sport _ Norge _ Griso.html https://www.dynotec.de/modelle/Moto Guzzi Quota 1100 ES.html Like most tuning places, "tricked up by Dynotec" doesn't have to mean they have gone the whole hog. It might just mean they have made it run the way it should as opposed to the way it left the production line.
  7. It seems to be pretty easy to find here. A quick internet search brought about 10 hits. If it gets too hard, I could get you a couple of feet and send it over.
  8. Indeed. A bloke might almost get a wee bit jealous looking at photos like that. That tin on the bench with the handlebar clamps on it, I've got one of those. It was a birthday present last year. I use it to store the good chocolate.
  9. That seems very sensible to me. I don't know how much a replacement costs, but it is certainly a lot less than repairing the carnage that can result from that joint breaking. Not to mention life and limb...
  10. Yes, good to have. There is one in the garage I am in, but my garage "roommate" Ben generally has one of his bikes on it. I barely get a chance to use it. Ok, Ben did buy the lift, but still....
  11. And keep an eye on the uni-joints. If there is even a hint of play in them, they need changing.
  12. Thanks for the offer, Scud. Someone in the German forum has already indicated that he might have a switch lying around. If I can't find anything here, I'll get back to you. Here are some pictures of the damage: The back of the switch was broken off. I think the internals are all still there and intact. If I were to re-use the contact plate, I would re-solder the yellow wire. There is too much copper showing there for my taste, probably from being pulled out by force. It seems to me, the only thing that is really broken is the cup that it all sits in. Getting it all out was a bit of a fiddle. I had to dismantle to this extent Fairing screen off, and unbolt the instruments. I could get on to the screws to get the back of the switch off with a stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver. A bloody useless tool generally, but every workshop should have one for just such occasions. The plug is under the tank. I was able to raise the tank without unplugging anything just enough to get a piece of 2x1 under the front of it to hold it up whilst I unplugged the cable. Positive point: there doesn't seem to be any "tank swelling" going on. The bolt at the back of the tank came out and went back in very easily.
  13. audiomick

    03_Plug.jpg

    From the album: audiomick

  14. audiomick

    01_Alles.jpg

    From the album: audiomick

  15. Yes, it was definitely tampered with. As I wrote, I just don't know whether the damage was already done when I took the battery out on the assumtion that it was flat, or whether the damage was done after that. The bike stood on the on-street parking bay all night. There were other signs that someone had messed around with it. The left mirror was pointing off at an odd angle, the lights were on high-beam (definitely not switched by me...). Someone had a good fiddle with it. I'm going around to the garage now to have a closer look at the damage...
  16. Turns out the battery may not have been flat. I can't say for sure. I went in today, got the battery out and re-installed it. As I was about to try and start it, I noticed the contact plate of the ignition switch hanging out of the left side of the fairing. I don't know if the bike was tampered with before I tried to start it last night, or during the night after I took the battery out and put it on the charger in the store room. Anyway, I found the bit with the spring loaded copper contacts on it lying inside the fairing. With the help of a copious amount of electricians tape, I was able to make a contact, start the bike, and ride it to my garage. It is in there now, and I hope to be able to get it fixed fairly soon. First thing is to have a good look at the damage, then do some research into what parts and if they are available. As far as I could tell by squinting in under the instruments, the plastic cylinder that the whole business lives in is broken. I was too dispirited to have a closer look after I got it into the garage. Needless to say, I am not amused. Edit: the first results of an internet search are not very encouraging.... https://motorize.de/de/368980-moto-guzzi-v11-sport-2003-schlosssatz-tankdeckel-schlsser-zndschloss.html
  17. Ran the battery flat. I rode it "the long way around" to work today. "Work" is in the Leipzig Opera House. As I was taking off my helmet, the Opera Director came past on his way to work. He greeted me, and commented on the bike and so on. As a result, I wasn't concentrating when I turned the key to engage the parking lock. I reckon I turned it all the way to "parking lights". When I tried to start it to go home after work, nothing. Fortunately: There are some tools under the seat. This occurred to me in time to stop me from just going home in a huff, and I took the battery out. I was all set to take the battery home on the tram, carrying the helmet and far too warmly dressed. Then it occurred to me that we (the sound and video department of the Opera House), by lucky coincidence related to a production that is running at the moment, have a CTEK battery charger set up ready to go in our storeroom. And I could leave the helmet and the excess clothing in my locker at work. So I went back in, plugged the battery onto the charger, and left the excess baggage in my locker. Hopefully, when I go back in tomorrow around midday after the forecast rain has stopped, I'll be able to put the battery back in and ride the bike home. And hopefully, the battery is not defunct. Also, I noticed when taking the battery out that the - terminal wasn't done up particularly tightly. The bonus would be that that is the cause of the starting problems it has been having. We'll see. More likely, I'll have to get a new battery, I reckon.
  18. I could only find this one: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/guzzi-v11-le-mans-tenni/2394898251-305-7973 Looks ok, but a bit pricey, I reckon.
  19. The difference between "clearance" and "no clearance" is less than 1 mm. But the tip is good. I'll see if I can measure the clearance somehow. I'm thinking of it because one of the bolts holding the relay sockets to the frame doesn't have any clearance.
  20. That indicates that one should avoid over tightening those screws, doesn't it?
  21. With brass screws, of course.
  22. The only thing that gives me cause to stop and think is the height at 26mm. I gather the originals were 21mm. The ones in mine at the moment are 22mm. . Has anyone got the Picker items in a V11, and can comment on the clearance to the seat or lack thereof?
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