audiomick

As far as I know, the motor management on those can't be re-programmed like later ones can, you must actually change a bit of hardware. I know a bloke here who, I believe, can supply the part in question with an updated map. If you like, I can ask him what is really involved, und what an updated map can be expected to bring with it. The man in question doesn't ride on the road any more, only on closed tracks, but he used to have a Centauro. I believe that was his last road bike.

Did some more fiddling around with the rear end, i.e. swing-arm and wheel. The bearings in the swing-arm didn't want to come out, so I took that to the workshop to let the Meister have a go at it. I got the bearings out of the wheel myself, but it is not back together. I discovered that the spacer between the bearings is one that is only about 106 mm. long, and has an additional "slice" added to make up the 113 mm that it should have. (Thanks @Lucky Phil, I measured what it should be according to your advice somewhere here, or maybe somewhere else....). I showed that to the Meister as well, and he wasn't impressed, so I'll be getting a new one of those that fits properly. Wendel and S-D can both deliver, I just don't know how long it is going to take. I'm beginning to think that I wont get the Le Mans up to where I want to have it until late Autumn or so. Maybe.

Yes, it is. Still, I'll ask: did you replace yours, or just stick them (it) back on properly? I ask because mine has a nasty cough at about 2,800 rpm, so maybe I need to renew the boots on mine.

@ChrisPDX, looks good. Keep at it. I've got the swing-arm out of mine at the moment. Was hoping it would be just a matter of greasing the drive shaft and having a bit of a look at everything. It wasn't.... Still, I haven't found anything yet that is unsolvable.

I've had that, but on nicely asphalted roads. I had a job for a concert from Jose Carreras in a tennis hall in Lech am Alberg. Probably this building, I reckon. https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/121005999#map=17/47.21394/10.14905 We went up there in a 7.5 tonne truck (due to license and insurance parameters a common size here. It used to be the biggest vehicle you could drive with a standard car license...). That means the side window is about 2 metres above the ground. We drove in to the village, no problems, all the roads cleared and everything, but we were looking out the side windows level with the top of the snow next to the road. I was amazed. Up to that point, the deepest snow I had ever seen was about 2 feet.

I took out a uni joint on mine the other day. The project wasn't a success as a whole for a couple of reasons, but getting the joint out was. I looked at a couple of videos on you tube for hints. There are about 750,927 videos there in various languages about changing uni joints. Yes, the ones on the V11 are a bit tight. One tip I found from a bloke doing the joints on a Ural shaft was to get them as far out as you can, and then catch the end of the pin on the rim of the cap from the inside and hit it a couple of times more to get a bit more room. As it turned out, I didn't have to do that. The pins are just long enough to get just enough room to get the cross out. What gets in the way are the rollers. They start moving around in the cap, and get jammed between the end of the pin and the rim of the cap. I had to get in there with a pointed object and push them out of the way. One got in to the hole in the end of the pin (the "grease gallery") to about half its length, and the sticking out end was quite in the way. Anyway, I won. You just have to stick at it, look at what is happening and think about what your are doing, and don't give up.

Jeez mate, I'd be in there like a shot. Physics says it must fly, so why not. As long as Chuck would let me have a go...

As far as old bikes and dealerships goes, yes, the explanations apply pretty much all over. Specific to Harley: if the the turn signal module breaks, the bike doesn't run. And the part is obsolete. Hmmm....

Thanks for the link. That's too long to look at right now, but I'll get back to it.

Tom, no "h". Winter project.... The bike looks great. I might be just a little bit jealous...

The motor tells one whether it is happy or not. I listen to it. It's not hard. Most of the vehicles I have known for any length of time were happy above about halfway up the rev range, changing gears so they can spin up easily, getting revved out periodically, and never, ever being lugged. The control under the right hand (right foot in a car...) is where the music starts. Give it heaps....

You only have to get a couple of bits of bodywork to the the paint shop, not the whole bike....

We have a thing at work called a "surface". I believe it is a Microsoft product. Runs windows, and is effectively a normal Windows PC, but in the "tablet with touchscreen" form. I'd be looking for something like that. I have no real idea if the operating system on an i-Pad is the same as in a Mac computer, but believe it is not (i.e. Guzzidiag wouldn't run).

You may be right, docc, but the one he replaced (which maybe brought the improvement) was the only one that wasn't a GEI.

I think he is only talking about boarding, Phil, not loading. I've seen the process a number of times. They call up a block of seats and get them in, then the next block. Good idea, I reckon. It minimises the time you spend standing in the aisle waiting for some Richard to get his shit together so you can get past to your own seat (and hold up the people behind you who want to get past...)

Quote from Bernd's documentation on the German forum: DeepL says: So, no, it wont.

Hope it stays good, mate. And hope you don't get too many unexpected Polaroids.

Today I did nothing on or to the Guzzi, but something for a Guzzi: paid for it. A Breva 750 i.e. with less than 10,000 km on the clock, to be precise 9,883 km. . Of those, about 9,500 were ridden before 2013. Effectively one owner. There are two in the papers, but the first was a dealership. It was a "test-ride" bike. Actually a fairly boring motorcycle in a lot of ways, but I wanted a boring motorcycle to run errands on so that I don't do that on the V11 (or the V35 Imola), and the Breva is also a Guzzi.

Joe, you're giving me funny ideas again.

Hi. I haven't seen the B + S Monitor, but going by the photo I found, yes, I reckon they would fit under a helmet. Having said that, their site says that the B+S is an end-of-life product. The new one is B+S Monitor II As far as the mould goes, I got mine done at a Fachkongress of the Verband Deutsche Tonmeister, i.e. something like a trade fair. I also organised the possibilty to have moulds made at a hearing aid shop in relation to a job I did some time ago. The point is, the mould is taken by a professional. I expect that these days practically any hearing-aid specialist shop could do it. You'd have to go asking in your area. My plugs look like these ones: They do fit under the helmet with the noise filters in (like the one on the left in the picture), but don't with the in-ear monitor drivers in (like the one on the right...). I couldn't use mine to listen to the navigation device or anything like that. As far as the different levels of damping goes, that works with mine. The circular white bit in the one on the left is the filter. The ones in mine are Elacin filters, and I believe Hear Safe still uses them. Look at this: https://elacin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/elacin-b2b-de-productsheet-05-er.pdf as you can deduce from that, Hear Safe is not the only manufacturer offering moulded ear plugs. In fact, they are just making the moulds and using filters that someone else (Elacin) has developed. I'm very sure that Hear Safe is not the only one on the market (by a very long stretch...) that is doing exactly that. The Elacin filters seem to be in fairly common use as far as I can tell, but I expect there are others with a similar product out there. I would suggest going to a couple of hearing-aid shops in your area and questioning them a bit. Do some research, whatever way. There is likely to be a supplier closer to you than Germany. Having said that, the German stuff is, of course, very good. It just might be complicated getting the taking of a mould co-ordinated.

Alles klar, schon verstanden. A bloke in Australia had a visitor. The Australian bloke did the right thing and showed his visitor around, as one does. The visitor was from Texas. They went out in to the countryside, and the Australian explained that the farms here were fairly large. The Texan said "oh, right, you should see how big the ranches in Texas are." The Australian pointed out the cattle, and how well they were adjusted to the environment in Australia. The Texan said "yeah, nice. You should see how big the horns are on our cattle". And so it went on.... Eventually, they were driving down a back road looking at the landscape and the bush, and a Kangaroo came bounding across their path. "Goddamm" said the Texan, "what in the hell was that?". "Oh, " said the Australian, "that's a native mouse".

I'm not likely to ever have to make the choice. However, going by that video (what on earth did that brainless girl think she was producing?) I think I would also go anywhere else first. To the extent of walking a mile in these shoes with a canister in my hand to get the fuel from somewhere else.

I believe their only purpose is to keep the spacer more or less lined up with the hole in the bearing so you can get the axle in.

I believe I have read here that it is supposed to be 113 mm. . Is that correct? Relevant to me because I expect to be changing the wheel bearings in the rear wheel of my 2002 Le Mans in the very near future. I'd like to be able to check the length of the spacer while I'm at it.