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audiomick

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    Our vices, er: "vises"

    in Special place for banter and conversation

    Posted · Edited by audiomick

    9 hours ago, docc said:

    I also noticed the big Wittner C44 utility vise has a square recess at the back of the anvil surface. Some sort of mounting hole?

    I'm guessing, but...

    I went looking for pictures because I remember the anvil that my father had on the farm in my childhood had similar holes in it. Turns out, the holes have names

    Anvil,_labelled_en.svg

    Gerald G, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anvil#Structure

     

    I think the square one in your anvil may, perhaps, be a "Hardy hole" intended indeed as a mounting hole for "Hardy tools".

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardy_tool

    Perhaps the manufacturer of the vise offered accessory tools that could be mounted in the hole.

     

    Seems plausible to me. :huh2:

     

    EDIT: I found what seems to be cofirmation of my bold theory. B)

    Someone asked the same question about the hole here:

    https://www.reddit.com/r/Tools/comments/8mzd5a/question_about_a_columbian_c44_vise/?rdt=46355

    and was directed to here

    https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/the-vises-of-garage-journal.44782/post-2383317

    where there is a copy of a catalogue page showing the accessory.

     

    • Thanks 1

    30 amp fuse failure

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, guzzler said:

    Ps what's the betting now I've mentioned it....?

    She'll be right mate, no worries... B)

     

    Seriously, though, having a good regulator in the system will keep the volts under control. That, in turn, will keep the waste heat from bad connections under control.

    The formula is here:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joule_heating#Direct_current

    P = V²/R

    The resistance of the contact is constant, so the higher the voltage across the contact, the more work is done (power generated = heat generated). So keeping the voltage under control also keeps the heat generated within limits.

    • Like 1

    30 amp fuse failure

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    It occurs to me to mention that it is not only the blade connector that can have a bad contact. The crimp on the wire into the connector can also go bad. A good crimp is theoretically air tight, and should last a very long time. If the crimp is a bit shoddy, corrosion and oxidation can find their way into the crimp and cause a resistive contact.

    If there are persistant problems with bad contacts (too much warmth) despite cleaning and fettling, I would be inclined to pull the connector out of the socket and check the crimp. :)

    • Like 3

    30 amp fuse failure

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    4 hours ago, gstallons said:

    ...The current is going through that one sliver of "fuse" ...

    Yes, but the "heat photos" show that it is not the fuse itself that is getting warm. I wouldn't expect that, either, except when the current is getting close to the limit for the fuse.

    What is getting warm is the contacts in the socket, and that makes sense. All things being equal, that is where the highest resistance in the circuit is to be expected. :huh2:

    • Like 1

    Alloy cam gears

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    The picture is no doubt from one of those "AI" programmes, like Easy Diffusion, where you type in "a picture of a Moto Guzzi on the moon" or something and it generates a picture. I had a play with that a while back. Quite surprising what it comes up with. :)

    30 amp fuse failure

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    8 hours ago, DucatiGuzziIndian said:

     the fuses were cooler than the underlying area... maybe its the input wiring temp????

    Yes, that makes sense. Generally speaking, a contact such as the plugs in the fuse sockets will have a higher resistance than the wires that is is connecting. A higher resistance at constant current will produce more warmth than a lower one. The current through the circuit is constant all the way through, so therefore the contacts will be a bit warmer than the rest.

    Still, 50°C seems a bit warm to me. Have you cleaned the fuse sockets up?

    Coppa Italia in the UK is it the only one?

    in 24/7 V11

    Posted

    Interesting ad, that one. I followed the urging in the text to look at his other articles. Some interesting stuff there, some apparently cheap, including a KR 250 that I would be very tempted by if it was in Germany.

    I have the impression that the seller had big plans, but that his business idea has gone tits up on him. :huh2:

    gasket for the timing sensor

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    7 hours ago, 80CX100 said:

    ...I recently got schooled big time,when I found a spark plug cap on my Griso that "looked" perfect on the exterior,but was completely fried on the inside...

    Yes, it pays to really look at that stuff when the bike is going back together, really pay attention to what you are doing.

    I had one where the V35 Imola was "hesistant" at a particular engine speed. Nothing visible, but it turned out that the one plug cap just wasn't quite seated correctly. Another one: in the course of doing something or other under the tank, I had pushed the plug leads out of the way, maybe pulled on one whilst replacing the tank. Whatever, I didn't even notice it running badly, but the next time I looked under the tank I saw the damage. The lead out of the r/h coil was not plugged up properly. It was still sparking, but the shroud that the plug sits on around the contact had been eroded away to the extent that about a third of the material was gone. Cost me a new coil just for being careless. :huh2:

    • Like 2

    gasket for the timing sensor

    in Technical Topics

    Posted · Edited by audiomick

    23 hours ago, 80CX100 said:

    Try riding a gear or 2 lower than you normally would to keep the revs up & the V11 in it's sweet spot. 

    I hear what you are saying, and agree. Having said that, I'm not prone to lugging a motor, neither generally speaking, nor specifically a Guzzi motor. My first Guzzi was (and I still have it) the V35 Imola. If you don't give the 350 motor a caning, nothing happens. And it begs you consantly to give it the berries. The third Guzzi is a Breva 750, also a small block, and also more than willing to be flogged.

    That brings us to the V11: it is obvious that the motor is set up to be revved out, and that is one of the reasons I love it. Even so, the way mine spits and farts and carries on can't be normal, I reckon. I'll keep looking, but when, as you put it, I am certain that everything is right and it still misbehaves at lower revs, then I'll take your advice and ride around it. :huh2:

    gasket for the timing sensor

    in Technical Topics

    Posted

    4 minutes ago, gstallons said:

    audiomick , do you have vernier calipers or access to this plasticene Phil talked about?

    I've got feeler gauges. I've been informed via PM that one can use those to measure the gap when the timing chest cover is off. That is probably what I'll do. I've got a gasket for that on the shelf. :)

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