audiomick

Leather. Black, of course.

Well done, that man.

Even on your aeroplane?

It's not just the condition of the battery. It doesn't fit right. It is mounted with the battery poles to the left of the bike, with some "creative" wiring to make the connections. All safe, but I don't like it much. Any excuse to get it back to original.

No, mate. Haven't got three weeks spare time.... Seriously, I'm familiar with the concept. It also affected various CARC models, even if the specific cause and cure wasn't exactly the same. I want to see for myself exactly where the Volts are going missing, but the knowledge that the power supply to the starter solenoid is marginal from the factory is in the front of my mind. Yes, that is true. By the way, with "searching" I meant "testing". On general principles, changing the battery first would be the right thing to do, no question. It is almost 100% certainly past its use by date. Why I might do some testing with it: I might try and charge it, and see if it takes a charge at all, and if it does, how long it holds it and how much power it can really deliver. Probably none. That is just curiosity a the behaviour of a dying battery. I would prefer to be not using a brand new battery for a long period of time for testing, possibly with multiple activations of the starter. If the old one can limp through that, I'd rather use it. That is not intended as advice for anyone else, or an argument against changing a battery that is known to be bad, or even just suspect. New battery is the way to go. However, although I am not an electrician, I understand what the multimeter is telling me (mostly...), and enough about the basics to draw usable conclusions even from a half flat battery. The dead battery, in the worst case, perhaps wont be enough to turn the starter, but it will suffice to show me high resistance contacts, for instance.

Goes away when you pull in the clutch lever? Loud and disturbing noise? That's normal. It's the clutch. It rattles when it is not engaged.

I got the starter motor back together today, and put it back in. Still works. But the starting problem isn't fixed. So I did what I should have done before I started pulling things apart: got out the multi-volti and started seeing how many Volts were where. First thing was the battery. I mentioned early on in this thread that I was assuming that the battery was ok. Maybe it was, and has been standing around doing nothing for too much of the intervening time, or maybe it wasn't. Today I had about 12.45 V with the ignition off, about 11.9 V with the ignition on, and I saw some "9.x" Voltage readings during start attempts. In my book, that is a good battery. Good for using as a door-stop, for instance. Given that the current battery is installed 90° rotated from the original, which has led to some slightly creative solutions to get the wires to the battery poles, I am going to go looking for a replacement battery. Second thing was the voltage reading at the connector to the starter solenoid. Sometimes it is more or less the "9.x V" that is present across the battery terminals when starting the bike. Sometimes, however, it is only 5.x V. Close to six volts, but under. That is when it doesn't start, funnily enough.... So, further testing and investigation is necessary, but at this point it looks like either the relay (No. 1 not pulling on properly, or an intermittent, or at least non-constant. fault in the wiring. The search continues...

I can't say what, but something is going wrong there, or being done wrong. I watched Bernd and Karsten doing exactly that only last weekend. They started (on a V11 Sport Greenie) at -20, went down 10 twice, up to -10, and then back to -20, all without interruption. The motor was running, and Guzzidiag was connected, the whole time. What I do know is, if you turn off the ignition, you have to re-connect Guzzi Diag. If you want to stop the motor whilst Guzzidiag is connected, but will be continuing the analysis, use the kill switch, not the ignition switch. Edit: that they ended up with -20 should not be considered as the right value for every bike. It was a good setting for that bike, but a different bike might want a different setting. -20 would seem to be a good starting point, since "the experts" started there. The crux of the matter is to go up and down and find the best setting for the bike in question.

Leave it here. The thread is running a bit like a conversation in front of "the Garage" over a quiet beer. Given that the topic has roved from Quotas over V11 und back to Quota, I reckon it is a bit more general even than the "Older Models" section.

DeepL to the rescue: che cosa hai

The only thing with that is, whether a radiator hose is oil resistant. On the weekend I finally met my good source of information in person. I spoke with him about exactly that hose. His advice was to buy the expensive one from Wendel https://wendelmotorraeder.de/oelschlauch-entlueftung-dick_gu30157400-p-1009234.html?ref=expl in his opinion, it should last a while. The equivalent from Stein Dinse is probably this Sorry, can't post that link. Stein Dinse appears to be updating their site, and I can't access it.

Regarding KiwiRoy's advice: a resistor in parallel to the LED will do the job as well. Just don't ask me what the resistance needs to be. It should be possible to calculate the value on the basis of the wattage of the bulb and the 12V nomimal voltage. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistance_and_conductance

In case it is of any use, here is what Bernd wrote on the german forum: The result of a DeepL translation (slightly improved by me): Info regarding Mac OS X Unzip the ZIP file somewhere and start the app. That should be it. Since I'm not a Mac user, I can't say much more about it. I've reached a point where the programmes run without the Finder crashing. The connections are established and the values can be read from GuzziDiag. The software up- and download for the 15x also works. Nevertheless, I haven't reached 100% yet, but I'm working on it. New unpleasant information about the Mac: In another forum, a user took a closer look at the Apple version and newer OS X versions. He discovered that since OS 10.8 Apple uses its own USB drivers for the FTDI chip, so the original ones won't work anymore. (I can't quite understand this, because in my emulator it works under 10.8 and 10.9). But as a solution he uses a small program with which you can deactivate the Apple driver. http://www.enttec.com/support-center/kb/article/108-OS_X_Mavericks_(10.9)_-_IMPORTANT Edit: the link leads to somewher that doesn't look useful. See the EDIT at the end of this post. The program has to be running while using GuzziDiag and the Apple driver has to be deactivated, then there are no problems. (I assume, if you have installed the FTDI drivers before). Unfortunately, I'm on very thin ice here and can't say anything positive or negative about it. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) To put it all into perspective: Bernd doesn't own a Mac, so his testing possibilities are a bit limited. On top of that, he doesn't even own a Guzzi for which Guzzidiag is applicable. His Guzzi is a Le Mans 850. Given that, all credit to the man that the programme even exists. EDIT: the link in Bernd's text leads to an australian manufacturer of LED lighting systems. The relevance is, they us DMX (common lighting control system. Look it up if you're curious) to control their systems, and reading their site indicates that the interface they use has an FDTi chip. I think, but am not sure, that the article that the link was supposed to lead to was probably this: https://support.enttec.com/support/solutions/articles/101000396106-macos-software-not-recognizing-dmx-usb-pro reading that and extrapolating might help solve problems, I think. Perhaps. I'm going to send that to Bernd, because the link in his text in the german forum is not that useful. If he responds with anything positive, I'll pass it on. ANOTHER EDIT: the post in which that text was found was last edited in May, 2022.

I don't know enough about the circuit or the sensor to guess, but could it be that it needs the resistance of a conventional light globe to work properly?

We're talking about the screws in the holes in the intake manifold where the vacuum gauges get connected to syncronise the throttle bodies, right? At that position on various motorcycles I have only ever seen an aluminium sealing washer. That's what I would put in there. Edit: no, wait. I changed those on my V35 Imola a couple of months ago. The originals were aluminium. The workshop gave me copper washers instead, because that is what the had in stock. They also work fine. The point is, it needs to be a sealing washer, not just a plain steel one.

Makes perfect sense from a marketing point of view: the manufacturer makes more profit by only selling the plug complete.

Yes. They started there, tried this way and that, and ended up back at -20. The important bit is, I reckon, the "this way and that", i.e. not just set to any particular value, but starting at a value that is known to be fairly good, and varying one way and then the other to find the best value. What they were observing, as mentioned, was the throttle response coming off idle. The process seemed to me to be analagous to setting the mixture screws on a carb: set them to the value in the Workshop Manual, then screw them in and out to find the best setting, in the case of the carbs the best idle.

Glad you got it all sorted in the end.

It was basically just a "decent tune up". Karsten (yellow t-shirt and overalls) did all the tinkering, Bernd checked what Guzzidiag can check. They set the TPS (goal was 160 mV, it ended up at about 158), balanced the throttle bodies, set the CO trim. For the CO, they started at -20 and varied back and forwards in steps of 10 to see how it reacted. The focus was on just off closed throttle, i.e. how snappy it was when the throttle was opened from idle. The final setting was -20. Yeah, it does look like that. That is Peter, the bloke who owns the Daytona side car rig. I only met him about an hour before that photo. His Daytona got looked at too. Karsten used to have a Centauro, so he knows that motor pretty well.

No, I'm afraid not. It is a Le Mans 850, if I remember correctly. I didn't look at it very closely, but it looked very trick. There was also a Daytona sidecar there. I think it is a shame to bolt a side car on a Daytona, but it was very well done. The owner bought it that way, and he loves it. I think there were about half a dozen side cars there in total. There were two V100 Mandello S there, both green. One of them belongs to one of the forum admininstrators. There are about 13 in the forum now, at least last time I looked. Maybe more now. Those who have them are all very pleased with them.

So the sockets for the relays are single units that are attached to each other, are they? I had assumed that it was a block. Are the sockets (bases) hard to get? I would imagine it is a standard part, but a quick search at Wendel didn't yield a part number.

Certainly worth a try, but I'd be sceptical.