audiomick

Spineticipation: the feeling that arises shortly after deciding to go for a ride on a spine frame in the near future

Spinachronism: individual characteristics of a motorcycle that, on a generic motorcycle, may be considered anything from "not quite state of the art" to "downright old-fashioned", but in harmonious combination result in an irresistable appeal.

I've just been in the garage and pulled the starter motor off. I only got it half way apart, and then realised I had to come back home and read the instructions that @MartyNZ kindly provided properly. Nevertheless, I reckon the starter motor has been replaced at some point. The bracket for the "decorative" cover is held on to the body of the starter with cable ties, which I assume is not original. I'm contemplating leaving that off altogether, far too shiny for me, a little pointless, and in the end only excess weight. Anyway, up to where I got, it all looks almost new. Sufficient fresh, clean grease on the moving bits, no dirt. I can turn the motor by hand quite easily. If I don't discover magnets without clips inside, I have to assume that it is absolutely ok. One question: the number on it is DEM D6RA210. It is a Valeo, not a copy. Does anyone know for sure if that is original or not?

For purely selfish reasons I went off and had a bit of a look. It seems that both Wendel and Stein Dinse have something on offer. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/rear-fender-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020310_300602031009.html https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=en&h=MG&m=220&t=5367 Perhaps it is worth checking out the "big" Guzzi places in the country you live in. It seems there are still replacements floating around.

Thanks Marty.

Well adrift from the topic, but while we're on the subject of blokes on silly Kawasakis riding in circles, look at this. The link is set, I think, to start at 5:27. Before that he is just idling through the pits. The bike is a H1R, apparently.

Yes. Very pretty. I still want one. Some interesting photos here (sorry it is on facebook...): https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=590441511059419&set=gary-thomas-at-bathurst-1979

I was at "my" mechanic's workshop the other day with the V11 Le Mans. She obliged by showing her party trick with the starter button in his presence. He reckoned that it is most likely the starter motor itself, i.e. it is probably full of crud which prevents it from making the necessary contact in the starter motor solenoid. He started to talk about cleaning it out, but very quickly suggested simply buying a new one. I have also seen a few comments here that suggest just replacing the starter motor rather than buggerising around trying to fix an old one. I am fully aware that it is not hard to find a cheap replacement that possibly came off the same production line as the Valeo starter motor, but just doesn't have "Valeo" written on it, but rather some other manufacturer. Nevertheless, I'm curious about what the insides look like, and cleaning out the existing one would be cheaper if it can be saved. So... how hard is it to pull the starter motor apart? Is there anything in there that is likely to go "boing" and dissapear into the darkest corner of the garage? Is it easy to put back together? Is there any mystical black magic knowlege necessary to get it apart, cleaned and back together such that it still works afterwards?

Yes. As I mentioned further up, that is the plan of the moment. In fact I was in the garage today, and all set to try out the procedure with pumping the tank empty using Guzzidiag to activate the pump. I have the connectors and some fuel line to plug onto the fuel pump. For anyone who doesn't know: unplug the power to the fuel pump and start the bike. Let it run until it runs out fuel. There is then no more pressure in the fuel lines, and they are easy to disconnect. Pull the fuel lines off, and plug on a bit of fuel line with a connector, start Guzzidiag and activate the fuel pump to empty the tank. Catch the fuel in a fuel canister. It was expensive to buy, and makes a mess on the garage floor. Problem was, the laptop that I have prepared for Guzzidiag exploits froze up when I started it in the garage. I think it probably tried to run an update when I started it. Whatever, it didn't react to the touchpad, and I had to force a shutdown. When I started it later at home, everything worked. I hate Windows. Having failed to achieve that, I greased the sidestand to make myself feel better, and poked around and looked at few things. I'm even more convinced now that the oil leak is coming out of the breather hose. All very oily there.

Yeah, for me too. I still have my Kawasaki 1000 GTR. Great bike, actually, but very heavy. It's up for sale soon.

Yes, I think so too, without being 100% sure. One way to find out is to burn a shaving of the material. Doesn't need to be much. ABS burns with a yellow flame, and makes lots of black smoke. The other indicator is the noise it makes when it is dropped or hit. ABS makes a fairly clear clattering noise, almost bell-like. I don't know if there are any in english, but I have found a couple of videos in german on Youtube (from nerds, mostly...) about identifying the various plastics. ABS can be welded with a hot-air gun. I made a succesful attempt on a V35 Imola fairing. I got the ABS "welding rods" from a local hardware store. The hot-air gun needs a nozzle to concentrate the air stream. The one I have has about a 1/2" opening, and allows one to "focus" on the spot to be heated. One should open the crack to a Vee shape with a miniature grinding wheel before welding. My result looked fairly messy. Ideally, one would practice on something else before attempting the real thing. Nevertheless, I was able to smooth it off adequately on the outside to have it painted, and it held until the fairing was finally destroyed when the bike fell off the side stand. Again. The current fairing on that bike is the third one I've had...

Ok, got it. This one: https://www.stein-dinse.com/de/search.html?grp=&searchStr=30157400 As a matter of interest, would it be feasible to replace that with a piece of plain tubing, or are the pre-formed bends in the hose "absolutely necessary"?

Thanks, Tom. I'm planning to take the tank off again in the next week or so. I'll have a good look then.

not one of Guzzi's better moments, but it seems to not really be a huge issue. Just untidy.

Why have the cylinders on so many of those bikes sagged so much?

hey, docc, we just don't want things to get boring for you.

Sorry, no idea if those are available individually.

Good plan, I think. The German supplier I got the Caig products that I bought recently from is called "the Tube Amp Doctor". 'nuff said, I reckon.

Try searching "AMP Superseal".

I was in my garage briefly today, and had a look. I saw a hose, about half an inch thick, that goes in to the crankcase vertically just in front of the end of the crankcase before the clutch bell housing starts. Very, very oily. I think we're on the right track.

It occurred to me that I should perhaps expand a little on the quoted post. The text came in conjunction with some diagrammes of measurements of a cam that the quoted person had made himself. The text should not be understood as a recommendation to always set more clearance than the manufacturer specifies. The recommendation for greater clearance on the old guzzis is based on measurements and empirical trials on that particular motor. It seems that the manufacturer struck a compromise very much in favour of low wear and tear on the valve train and quiet running (i.e. very long ramps on the cam to save stress on the pushrods and rockers...). The recommendation for more valve clearance shifts the compromise towards a bit more valve train noise, less thermic stress for the valve seats, somewhat better performance (at least theoretically), and perhaps a little more stress for the valve train.

Thanks docc. I've had that recommended to me as a "must do". From the same person came the recommendation, while one is messing around in the general area, to put a thickish washer under the tab at the back of the tank. The purpose of this is to provide a little more clearance between the tank and the sidecovers. Apparently there can be contact there, with associated wear and tear on the expensive plastic bits. I haven't done either of those things yet, but a closer look at the bike confirmed that both would seem to be a good idea.

Same as the faders and pots on audio equipment. Sooner or later a point is reached where they are just worn out, and must be replaced. For those wishing to have a go at rejuvenating a tiring TPS, this would be the appropriate Caig product, I believe: https://caig.com/fader-f-series/ That is, according to the blurb, specifically formulated for exactly that application, i.e. cleaning the contacts in a pot or fader. I would be very reluctant to put the D-series oder G-series contact cleaner in a pot. I'd be afraid it might just eat away the contact strip. Caig also offers a grease that looks like it should be suitable for the application https://caig.com/deoxit-grease-landing/

Yes, that has just jumped to the top of the list. Thanks again.

Thanks, Tom. I didn't know that the breather system might be a potential culprit here. I'll have a closer look at that. Also @docc thanks for the link to that thread on the subject.