audiomick

What you wrote about "consistenly repeatable" sounds a lot like you are on the right track. That is one of the fundamentals of isolating problems. Why not? It is so easy to type: left forefinger,right ring finger, left ring finger. Nothing to it.

What he said. I haven't done it, but I have read a real lot of what Bernd (author of the abovementioned programs) has written in the german forum. One thing in addition to "make sure you have saved your original map before you do anything else. Really sure..." : Bernd recommends having the (fully charged) bike battery on a smart charger when you are doing anything with Guzzidiag and particularly with the reader and writer, and use a power supply for the laptop you are using as well. The one thing you really, really do not want to happen is that a battery (bike or computer...) goes flat during the process. The result of that can easily be this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brick_(electronics)

Ok, I'm convinced.

docc, you have, of course, excluded the possibility that the multimeter has a dickey connection? No offense meant, but someone has to ask the dumb questions...

If in doubt about the rollers, take off a rocker cover and have a look. It should look like this if it has rollers:

Anyone who tries to go there will notice immediately, but here a heads-up: Stein-Dinse has shut down their old online address at Stein-dinse.biz . The site is still there, and the new adress is visible there, but it is only for reference now. The new site is at https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/ so if anyone is planning on ordering something from them, you may as well go straight there. The search by parts lists is still available, and actually improved. It is to be found by scrolling down a bit; the icon is on the left of the page.

You can do it docc. I have faith in you.

Yes, I saw that too. As I said, I'm not fussed about it not being included as I have enough of them already. However, I assume they would probably send me one if I complained about it. Two good reasons to buy there, I reckon. They're staying on the case, and they seem to have a good record.

I sent one of the Lonelec KL-1TALIA adaptors mentioned above to Bernd, the Guzzidaig author, so he could have a look at it. The first thing he did was to open it up and have a look inside. His report was as follows: I wondered about the USB cable myself. The ordering process involved ticking boxes regarding the type of USB connection, and I had the distinct impression there would be a cable provided. I didn't query that though, as I have USB cables lying around here that I can use. So, anyway, it looks like one can use the adaptor without any great worries.

Yes, I'm aware of that trick. I'm not sure if we have talcum powder in the house, but I dare say I'll find something appropriate. Thanks for the tips, everyone.

The bike is a 2002 Le Mans, wrinkly paint on the motor, 15 M ECU, 43mm forks with rebound damping on both legs. I've added the date to my profile. I haven't had a closer look at the leak yet. What I noticed was "very well oiled" on the right hand side of the sump. No oil above the sump spacer. I can't say how the left hand side looks. The oil on the sump that I observed would be, perhaps, consistent with a leak low down on the right hand side of the timing cover, or perhaps towards the front out of the sump spacer gasket. I'm not likely to get into the garage for the next couple of days. If I do, I'll have a closer look and report. And yes, almost certainly motor oil. I know what gearbox oil smells like, and I didn't smell that.

Ok. The seal I mentioned is #19 on this drawing https://wendelmotorraeder.de/motorgehaeuse-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020330_300602033001.html I wasn't aware of the one you are talking about. I wish I had been. It only costs about €1.60, but the postage is probably about €5,-. Maybe I can get a suitable one from "my" mechanic. Or order some more stuff to make the postage worthwhile.... But before I order anything else, I need to have a closer look at where the oil is coming from. If that O-ring is the culprit, there must be oil coming out directly behind the alternator cover. If it is the seal, that would also be the case, I think. If it is the timing cover gasket, the leak must be further back, i.e. no oil traces from under the front cover. While I'm at it, does one need a puller to get the alternator off? According to the PDF workshop book I have, it should just come off. I have in mind the alternator on the V35 Imola. That is the "classic" Bosch alternator, and needs some persuasion to come off. Going by the drawing that Marty posted, the one in the V11 sits on a straight shaft and has a key to hold it in place. Should be easier to get off, I think, but am I right?

I discovered the other day that the V11 Le Mans is dropping a bit of oil. Not much, about a 2" spot on the garage floor after about a week or 10 days. My first thought was the sump gasket, but then I remembered that a very well informed person had predicted that the timing cover gasket and or the seal on the shaft to the alternator would start to leak sooner or later. So I'm taking bets, what do the well informed and experienced people here reckon: is the sump gasket more likely, or the timing cover gasket and/or that seal? I've got my bases covered, as I ordered gaskets for both and the seal today. I'd just like to know where to look first. The bi-annual roadworthiness inspection is due this month, so it would be good if I don't have to mess around too much to get the leak sorted.

Comment: I wrote further up that the bike is very pretty. On the downside, when the seller starts the text with "Limited edition and collectable Rosso Mandello", it can be taken as an idication that he thinks it is worth more than it really is, or he is punting for more than he knows it is worth.

Task bar: the bar, most likely across the bottom of the screen if it hasn't been moved, that shows symbols for what is runnning, the clock over in one corner and so on. Windows icon: the button on the left one clicks on to go to a programm and open it, and shut down the computer, amongst other things. You might know it as "the start button". At least up till Windows 10, a right-click on that instead of a left-click opens a list that includes the device manager. Edit: apparently one can open the device manager using the "search" box that windows puts in the task bar if you let it. Here is a video made by the man who wrote Guzzidiag. You can see him type "geräte manager", or at least start to. On a computer set to show english, type "device manager" instead. https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/FTDI_Win10_Install.mp4 The Video is from the Guzzidiag website here: https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/

Yes, do that. As I wrote, the computer needs an internet connection to find the driver (but not for Guzzidiag to run once the driver is correctly installed). I'm going to bed now, it is after 4 in the morning here. I wish you success.

Leave out Guzzidiag for a minute, and go and look in the Device Manager. You haven't said, but I am assuming you are using Windows 10. You can find the device manager by right-clicking on the Windows symbol in the task bar. Look at these two pages from Lonelec. They show generic information about Windows and dealing with drivers, not specific to their adapters. https://support.lonelec.com/pc-tech/finding-com-port/ https://support.lonelec.com/pc-tech/manual-driver-install/ With the information there, you should be able to see: if the correct driver has been installed, which Com port has been assingned to it or if the correct driver has not been installed, in which case you won't find a Com port that works with Guzzidiag.

I've only done this once, but.... Did you plug in the OBD adapter whilst the computer had an internet connection and let it get a driver before you tried to use Guzzidiag? Questions before that: which adapter are you using? Is it a Windos computer? Which Windows? The relevance of the adapter is that it needs a chip from FDTi. That is the good word from the bloke who wrote the program. I have an adapter from Lonelec which does, according to the manufacturer's website, have this type of chip. What I did was: turn on the computer at home where it has an internet connection through my wi-fi at home. Plug in the adapter. Let Windows go off and find the driver. One of two Windows 10 computers just got on with it, the other one didn't find the driver. The adapter turned up in the device manager under "other" as an unknown device. On that one, which is the one that I will be using in the garage, I followed the instructions on the Lonelec site to download the appropriate driver and install it manually. Note: you don't need an internet connection to run Guzzidiag when everything is set up, but you do to install / download the driver for the adapter. Answer those questions, and we'll see what answers come up. There are people here in the forum who have more experience than me with Guzzidiag. If something comes up that for some reason can't be solved, I have direct contact with the bloke who wrote the program through a german forum. If all else fails, I could try asking him directly for advice.

Nice photos. Pity about the container ship blocking the view. Still, it serves well to accentuate the svelte figure of the V11

Save the site: https://guzzitek.org/ there is a very impressive collection of Guzzi workshop manuals, owners manuals and parts lists there. Navigating the site takes a bit of getting used to, but it is worth the effort.

Just had another look at that ad for the Rosso Mandello. An old man who is selling because he is getting too old to ride it. Bought it from the first owner, his neighbour across the street. Attests to love the bike but "it needs a younger rider". At the very least, go an have a look at it. Sounds like a very good prospect to me.

But that is very pretty. And the rocker covers are easy to change....

Yeah, there are some ads that one is not really motivated to answer, aren't there.

That's pretty bassic....

Centauro, wheels on page 25 & 26 of the document (according to the document reader...) https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1000/Centauro_1997-1999_PL(GB).pdf early V11 models, page 41 &42 https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11Sport-RossoMandello_1999-2001_062011_PL(GB).pdf Have a look for yourself, but it seems to me that the answer to your question is "yes, they should fit".