audiomick

Thanks for that.

I'll do that (probably...), but I'm already familiar with the term and the concept from German forums. @LaGrasta : the "new bike" inspection hasn't happened yet, but it will come. The workshop that I share with a couple of blokes is no warmer than outside, so I'm not in a hurry to spend several hours in there checking over the bike until it gets a little less cold outside.

Yeah, one easily forgets that electrical contacts are something that need servicing. For instance, power cables and powerboards (plugs into the wall and has multiple outlets...) that are used in the "event branch", i.e. PA systems, lighting, video etc., and in fact anything that has a power cable on it, is supposed to get a yearly inspection here in Germany. When was the last time anyone here opened the plugs on that old power extension cable in the workshop to see if the screws were all still tight? For the electricals on a motorbike, it is just as relevant.

Thanks, I'll look at that. I got a PM earlier today suggesting I look at this topic: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/23441-solved-had-to-get-a-jump-start-from-roadside-assistance-starter-motor-not-cranking-after-a-chilly-night-intermitent-issue/ The symptoms described there match mine exactly, so I will be looking in that direction for sure. The gist of it is, the starter solenoid gets it's power through the ignition switch, and it may be that the switch is not letting enough amps through. Adding a relay which provides power directly from the battery to the solenoid and is triggered by the ignition switch will be more reliable and more robust. And should (or could...) solve the problem immediately and permanently. It is going to be a while, maybe a few weeks, before I get around to looking into this problem. Any further tips or information would be more than welcome. Thanks for the contributions so far.

So that would be a Valeo starter, right? I've read about the problem they had with the magnets for a while. I gather the problem was solved in newer models, but I don't know for sure from when on. I assume mine (V11 Le Mans 2002/2003 model) would have a Valeo starter. As far as I know, Guzzi started using them somewhere around that time, and they were in all the models. Can someone confirm that for me? Edit: I could, of course, go down and see if I can see a brand on the starter, but the bike is under a cover outside, and it is raining...

Thanks for that, docc. I'll look at those.

On the newly acquired V11 Le Mans, the starter button doesn't always work immediately. For instance this evening after work I had to hit it about 6 times before the starter kicked in. The previous owner had told me about the problem before I bought it, so I'm not surprised. Mostly it works; when it is being finicky it is mostly only once or twice. Tonight was the worst I've seen, but then again I haven't ridden it much yet. I haven't looked at anything at all yet. I'm assuming the battery is all right for now, firstly because the previous owner fixed a number of things during the 6 months or so that he had the bike, and I can't imagine he left a dodgy battery in it. Secondly, when the starter does kick in, or when it starts first go, there is no sign of battery weakness. The starter turns as I would expect it to, and the bike starts pretty much straight away. What might be relevant, or might not, it's only about 5° C here at the moment. Maybe the low temperature had something to do with it being particulary contrary tonight. That would, however, indicate a weak battery I think, and as I said, I think the battery is ok. When it is playing up, the dash lights dim a bit, so I don't think the starter button is just not switching. What occurs to me to look at: Check things like the connection from the minus on the battery to the frame, and "follow the volts" from battery plus to the starter with the multi-meter to see if any are getting lost on the way. And check the voltage at the battery with the motor off and with the motor running, of course. Also a check under load, i.e. lights on and activate the starter to see what happens to the battery voltage. If that all looks good (and at the moment, I suspect I'll find something in there somewhere...), I reckon I'll have to consider having a look inside the starter motor. So now the questions: Are there any known issues with the starter button, the starter itself, or anything related, that might cause such a problem? Does anyone have suggestions about what else I should be looking at? Thanks in advance, Mick

For people in Europe, SD has them as well. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=119#prettyPhoto

Looks to me like there is a chunk missing out of the "toothed crown". The disc with teeth around the outside that the starter engages to. In the photo above, there seems to be a rather large triangular shaped piece missing (at the bottom in the photo...)

If you're you're using it as primary and only source, yes, that is questionable. If, however, it is serving as a source of "prefabricated" text to quote which conveniantly says exactly what one wishes to say, it is no longer questionable but rather just very handy. I am fully aware of the shortcomings and advantages (yes, it does have some) of Wikipedia. I use it to check up on a lot of stuff, often as a starting point, but never as the ultimate authority on anything. Cross-checking sources is the trick, and using your own brain to decide if what you are reading is plausible or not. The quoted article about James Watt and horsepower is plausible, and is borne up by other sources. I could put in a long list of corroborating links at this point, but I really can't be bothered.

Docc "honey" is the one who lives here. The one who left is someone I have known for about 37 years (I met the one who lives here about 23 years ago...), and who I haven't seen for about 7 years. When someone like that comes to visit, you spend the time. Otherwise, my priorities are quite similar to yours....

Good timing, Chuck. I've had a visitor from Melbourne here for the last week. She left yesterday, and I was already planning to contact you today. PM will be on the way in about 5 minutes....

Well, I had to watch the video twice to figure out if the guy was talking BS or not, and do a bit of looking, but the answer isn't that hard when you know where the "magic number" 5252 came from. So where did the number come from? That is a constant that James Watt calculated when he was defining horsepower in conjunction with his developement of the steam engine. This might all seem a bit pedantic, but I'm putting it in on the off chance that it might help someone understand the video better. I had trouble with that because the guy neglected to define his premises at a couple of spots, and to explain why it is 5252, and that this number only applies if you are talking about horsepower against pound/feet (I learnt that as foot/pounds, but anyway...). So, from here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower#History and in the next section https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower#Calculating_power and there we also see (I've made it red) the definition of the premise that the guy neglected at that point: we're talking about pound-foot and horsepower. The number doesn't apply to Nm and kW. Edit: I should rather say, as far as I can tell with my limited math, the number most likely won't apply when talking about metric units, as it is part of the definition of hp, and doesn't play a role in the definition of one Watt. The next point at which he neglected to define his premise is where he started talking about 42 at 2,500 revs, and so on. After that he did mention he is assuming a motor with constant torque at any revs. He also doesn't make it clear that the number 42 is "invented" for the sake of the calculation. He say's "at 2,500 rpm you have 42 (units of power)". That 42 sounds like a fixed value, but is not. It is just the number he chose to use for his example. (I suspect he enjoys reading Douglas Adams...) That should have all been explained before he started in on his example calculation. So, enough nitpicking. I hope that helps somebody...

Sorry, can't really say much about that, because I haven't heard mention of it, or can't remember having heard. However, SD is a well respected supplier. I dare say it is ok.

It wasn't that clear to me. I could have sworn that the sticker on the rack on the GTR doesn't have that much silver on it. But I've had a closer look and done some clicking around in the interweb, and I think you are right. It looks like I should probably get on to that... I'm convinced it is still available from HB. See my link further up. It's on the web site, and SD have it listed as well. SD claims between 2 and 8 weeks delivery time, HB says "exact delivery time on request", so I reckon they only build it when the order comes in. Yes, it is less than a quarter of the new price. Hmmm.... Funny thing: HB lists €430,- and SD €369,- https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=68139 dunno how they do it, but SD seems to always be cheaper for HB products than HB themselves.

Are you aware of this? (You need a bit of spare pocket money....) https://hmb-guzzi.de/Oil-Pump-CNC-1100-cc-models The bloke and his business enjoy a very good reputation in German speaking Guzzi circles.

Art, thanks for the link. That does indeed look very similar to what I am intending to buy. That is this: https://www.hepco-becker.de/kompletttraegerset-seitenkoffertraeger-und-rohrgepaeckbruecke-topcasetraeger-schwarz-fuer-moto-guzzi-le-mans-v-11-sport-naked-1999.html And it is considerably cheaper than that. However, since I live in Germany, I am a little hesitant to buy something from the U.S. that would no doubt attract some sort of import duty, and "probably" would fit. Hepco Becker is a German company, and I already have a rack from them for the V35 Imola and one for the GTR 1000 Kawasaki, and a top box and a pair of panniers from Hepco and Becker to put on the racks. Unless someone can assure me with 100% certainty that Tusk is something like "re-badged" Hepco and Becker, and that the rack in the ad will definitely fit, I'd prefer to stick with the brand I already have.

Docc, going by that photo, I think you really need to take more care about keeping things clean and orderly when you're working on a bike.

Indeed. I would have loved to have one at the time, but as a "financially disadvanted" student it was completely out of the question.

Ok, thanks for the info. I haven't got the carrier yet (coming soon...) but I do already have a set of similar panniers. When I get the carrier and get them mounted, I'll post a photo of mine. Could take a few weeks.... Mick

It occurs to me that I need to clarify that. On the "small block" models, as with the old Tonti frame "big blocks", you need to remove the upper frame to get the gearbox out. That means that the clutch cable is no longer connected. To activate the clutch to pop the gearbox off, you need to push in the lever on the back of the gearbox that the clutch cable is connected to. I haven't had a look at the way the clutch works on the V11, but going by the parts lists, it looks like there is a rod through the gearbox that activates the clutch. In your situation, I'd be inclined to try and leave the clutch system connected until the gearbox is separated, so as to be able to use the clutch lever to push it off. You'll have to have a look at the business yourself to see if that is possible.

On a more serious note: I don't know for sure that this works with the "big block" Guzzis, but it is in the workshop manual for my "small block" V35 Imola. The constuction is similar enough that I reckon it should work. Undo all the bolts to the gearbox, and then pull the clutch in. On mine, the gearbox then pops off a bit, and you can pull it off without too much bother. Hope that helps. If it is still reluctant, hold a block of wood against the housing and persuade it a bit with a hammer against the wood block. Work your way around, and it should come off.

Don't drop it on your foot. I hope you find the problem quickly, and that it is not too dramatic.

Hi. What brand are those panniers? The look like they might be Hepco & Becker, but they seem to be sitting too high and too far forward for it to be the H&B carrier.