audiomick

Yeah, not much flywheel in that one. Luverly.

I reckon I've read something about the Baja model somewhere, but can't remember much of it. I believe it was intended and/or used in a Paris-Daker attempt without all that much success. This site is not 100% reliable, but here are entries for the TT and the Baja. The text is the same for both, and appears to relate to the TT rather than the Baja. There are, however, two photos on the Baja page that are visibly different to the standard TT. https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/moto guzzi/moto_guzzi_v65tt 84.htm https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/moto guzzi/moto_guzzi_v65tt_baja 84.htm Following the TT, there was also the NTX 650 and NTX 750. I gather that they were both better than the TT in a number of respects, but don't know the details.

Fashion, and too many Transformers films.

Guzzi has no monopoly on that one. Twenty year old almost anything can have it.

So what? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_industry_in_China I reckon there is probably a factory there somewhere that is capable of producing a decent gearbox if the client designs it right and is prepared to pay for quality control.

There used to be a saying in Australia, related to this race meeting in the '60s and '70s https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathurst_1000 "win on Sunday, sell on Monday" Race success always helps, even if the street model doesn't really have much to do with the race version.

I read about that here just the other day. If I remember correctly, one can remove the back end / cover and look in.

Is that faster than a cut cat? Looks like you had brilliant weather for it. It's getting better here, but today back down below 10°C, and there was a sleet shower about half an hour ago.

docc, you're a legend.

Nice to find an easily identifiable cause for a problem.

I don't believe so. Look here: https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1200/1200Sport8V_2008_PL(GB).pdf Page 23 shows the brake lines for the hand lever. Page 34 for the foot brake. That doesn't look like "system integrale" to me.

No, not crazy. Some plastics have a "memory". If you leave them alone long enough, they revert to their original form. Some varieties do it when you warm them up a bit.

I believe BMW recommends Staburags for some applications. Don't know much about it myself, but it gets mentioned regularly in the German forum.

Just in time, by the look of it.

Al hit the nail on the head: The bike is collectable, still in the crate as it is. What it is worth is what the buyer is willing to pay. No more, no less. The price can not be justified other than by "I want it", and doesn't have to be in any way rational, reasonable, or comparable to anything. There just has to be someone willing to pay it.

I have it from various reliable sources that if the battery voltage drops below about 10V under load (e.g. cranking), it is time for a new one. However that is assuming a full charge, I believe. I would suggest having another look at that when the battery is known to be fully charged, just in case.

I haven't had my tank off yet, but... Here is a workshop manual for multiple V11 models. On page 540 of the document it refers to removing the tank. Seems like the bolt at the back and the fuel lines are the only things that have to be removed. https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf Regarding the fuel lines: They are under pressure. As I wrote, I haven't done it yet, but I've had some good advice regarding them. The trick is to relieve the pressure before you try and disconnect the couplings. To do this, disconnect the electricity to the fuel pump and start the bike. Let it run until it runs out of fuel, and then there is no more pressure in the fuel lines, and the (somewhat fragile) couplings are much easier to disconnect. But I see that docc wrote that you shouldn't have to remove the tank.

Hi Igor. Just for your information, to avoid possible confusion: The green lever visible in docc's first picure is not standard. It is one of these: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/19580-lucky-phil-extender-mod/ I believe the silver coloured lever in the second picture is the standard part.

What's the difference?

Don't mean to sound picky, but you probably mean a tester there, right? When I read "Motobatt" alone, I think of batteries. I've had a couple of them in the V35 Imola. So, assuming you mean a tester, which one?

That is more or less the reason behind my asking about registration. You can use an old frame as the basis for a custom build here and thereby avoid modern emission laws. BUT the frame has to have been registered already for that to work. The emissions regulations that apply are those for the date of first registration, not for the date of manufacture according to the VIN.

Well, it might, but I wouldn't consider that prudent. As has already been mentioned, there are all those rubber bits in there that are more than 20 years old, and have never been moved at all in all that time. I'd have a good look at everything before even thinking about trying to start it.

I haven't had a chance to have a look yet. Have to get the bike into the garage I share with 3 other blokes, and space is a bit tight in there. Hopefully soon.

No, operator error at the other end, I think. The picture is here: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52767196911_28f284759f_b.jpg don't know what he's on about though. It's only a Griso....

Have a look here. Mine (also a 2002/2003 Le Mans) doesn't always start on the first push of the button. There's a click, the dashboard lights dim, and that's all. After a few attempts, it will start. Some good tips came up in the thread: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/28565-starter-button/ To help in solving your problem, what exactly happens when you press the starter button and it wont start? Nothing at all, there is a click and the lights dim but the start motor doesn't turn? When you turn on the ignition, do you hear the fuel pump kick in?