audiomick

Look here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cockpit#Etymology I reckon the "cockswain" theory is better.

The bloke said something like "your really have to know how to ride this bike". That's one of the main reason I bought one. He seems to have recognised the qualities of the V11, but he seems to me to be a bit of an idiot too. Or maybe I've just lost touch with the younger generation.

I just found this in the net. It seems to be currently available. https://3ppp.de/shop/zweiraeder/drosselsaetze/motorrad/35-kw/moto-guzzi/1520/35-kw-drossel-moto-guzzi-v11

I'm quite convinced it is intended as an alternative to the helicopter to get to the yacht. Probably uses heaps less fuel...

Nice. Wilbur and Orville's first flight apparently wasn't much more than that, either.

The hair has to be that colour. It matches the bag on the pipes...

Would you care to show us a photo of the motor in that, and perhaps tell us what it is?

The question needs to go to Chuck directly, but I got the impression he might still have a couple.

Yes, I reckon I can remeber seeing Micras here (Germany) in a colour that might have been that one.

docc, the more post I read from you (and others here...) the more concerned I am becoming about what I might find when I get around to having a really good look at my Le Mans. Thanks to you and everyone else here for all the good advice and solid tips. Far better to read about those sort of things in advance and go looking for them than to discover them far from home on the way to a weekend rally that one has been looking forward to for months.

Yes. I learned that very early on, and coincidentally read an Article on the topic just recently. In about 1986 I bought a '76 Z900. It had a Michelin on the back. Tread pattern M38, if I remember correctly, but it was a racing rain tyre. Shouldn't have been on a street bike at all, actually. When it was warm, it was fantastic. But it absolutely had to be warm. I nearly chucked it away one time coming out of the parking lot at the Uni. There was a roundabout on the way out, and I gave it a bit of stick coming out. I think that was the first time I got a bike seriously sideways. The tyre was still cold, and just let go.

Mine has these on it: https://www.bridgestone.de/motorrad-reifen/sport/battlax-s21 I can't say much about them, as I haven't ridden it much yet, and that in very cold conditions on a newly bought bike, i.e. I don't know the bike at all. One of the blokes I share the garage with said they are more or less one grade short of race tires. Can anyone confirm that? I have a feeling that the previous owner might have chosen grip at all cost, and bugger the mileage. We'll see. I'll try and remember to report back when I have ridden a bit more in friendlier conditions, and got the suspension dialled in to my weight a bit. The previous owner is probably at least 20 Kg. heavier than me, and I have a feeling that he had it set up hard for his weight.

Well, that explains the tape then. That's a goog thing... Yeah, and tape instead of mounting bolts might too...

Do that. I'll be looking forward to it. I rode the V35 to work today. Only in town, and only about 4.5 km. Barely enough to get it warm. Nice and sunny, but barely above 0°C. The seat wasn't frozen solid, but was very "firm", and provided a perfect practical example of what a heat sink does.

They're heading into winter...

Get the tape off and have a look. If there is a good reason for it, you should be able to see it, and almost certainly also figure out a more elegant way to solve the issue than adhesive tape. If there is nothing obvious there, then there is adhesive tape on there distributing sticky horrible residue for no good reason, and it is time it was removed.

Ahh, yes. Sometimes one just hast to make do with what one can get. Well I do fell honoured. Unlikely that a GTR 1000 will play a part though. I crashed the first one, and am trying to sell the one I have now. The V11 has ursurped the GTRs position.

Whatever happend to be on the parts shelf at the time...

Just out of curiosity, the bike is fairly low mileage, but not pristine. From his description: Is he optimistic with the pricing, or do they go for that sort of money there?

Yes, you could put that in there. You could also put beer in there. Ok, I'm being a snob, but hey, I live in Germany... Shortly after I bought my first Kawasaki 1000 GTR, I went shopping with it. That taught me the value of the panniers on that bike. I loaded up 6 bottles of beer (half-litre, as they generally are in Germany...), two deep-frozen pizzas, and a bottle of white wine for the missus. In one of the panniers.

It's a German company, so having it sent to USA might be expensive. They have a very good reputation here, so you might like to enquire. https://www.mrashop.de/modellbezogene-produkte/motoguzzi/v11-le-mans/alle-bj/7140/v11-lemans-originalformscheibe-om-alle-baujahre?number=I4025066089666 Look around on the site. They also offer a higher screen, if that should be interesting for you. Edit: I didn't notice initially, but there is a button on there that allows the choice of "english" as language. The translation is acceptable.

I've read in the german forum a couple of times that it is possible to fit a stelvio shock on the rear of the Norge, and that this solves the clearance problems and improves the handling generally. I gather the Stelvio shock is a bit longer. That is hearsay, and only intended as a starting point for your own research! What else I have read: the Norge is probably the best ever Guzzi for two-up riding, although some Stelvio owners prefer the Stelvio.

Looking at your photo, I would run the hose off the bleed nipple a got bit further upwards before letting it curve down to the floor. 10 or 12 inches would be appropriate. Support the hose before the curve starts. The advantages are: there is less stress on the hose at the nipple, so it seals there better the straight section allows for some twist in the hose, which allows the nipple to be unscrewed enough for the bleed action without screwing the hose off the nipple the straight-up section of the hose fills with fluid, so you can see much, much better what the bubble situation is when the nipple is released for the bleed action, i.e. unscrewed to let the air out Changing my method for bleeding brakes, on the advice of a mechanic, from what I see in your photo to what I described changed the task for me from something I absolutely hated doing, and which always frustrated and angered me, to something that is merely tiresome.

I think I need to look at mine and evaluate if I need one of those. Looks really good...

That's it. Another couple of things: mp3: no. Sounds like shit. The sound is going to be added to a video, and then (probably) up-loaded to youtube or something like that . Every step along that path brings a degradation of sound quality with it. Therefore, the initial source should be as good as possible. This is not mp3. Automatic gain control: this process adjusts gain according to some algorithm that some programmer wrote according to what he reckons might work. There is a limiter involved that does things to the level that are almost never good. Far better is to work out what is a good, safe level for the recording situation, and set that manually. Better to be on the safe side, and boost the level in post-production. Digital audio workstations almost always have a "normalise" function that is intended for exactly that. Incidentally, the sound quality of the bloke's voice in the video is very poor. One on the problems is that it is repeatedly slightly distorted. The automatic gain control is not keeping it under control. The other thing is, that the automatic gain control is compressing it to death. The result here would also be much better if he were to work out (by trial and error, if nothing else) what would be the ideal manual setting, and use that, and adjust the level in post-production as neccessary.