cowtownchemist

Success! I now have two fully functional and great looking gauges! After utilizing the work bench and the housing I was able to get the bolts aligned and the lock nuts tightened with some locktite. After which I was able to get the back housing on and fasten it with the original four nuts. It definitely took a lot of trial and error to get the appropriate depth of the bolts and alignment. One tip is once I was close to where bolts needed to be, I marked the back of the gauge so that I could line them back up if I accidentally moved it while adjusting, which happened quite a bit. I set the tach to 2 PPR and confirmed it was very accurate with Guzzidiag. I programmed the odometer to the same mileage as on the stock gauge. I went for a short test ride and all functioned extremely well. I still need to take out the old speedometer cable and plug it up. I received the bolt from Zoro this afternoon. Thanks everyone for the help on this task! Here are a couple final pictures. I will update with some night pics later on.

I made the decision to go with the lamp parts method in order to leave the back housing un-molested. $50, a few sparks, and some JB weld later I have the setup in the pictures below. However, I became very frustrated as I am having a really difficult time getting the screws to line up with the holes in the back housing. Also, the added brackets has reduced the amount of space to stash the extra wiring, I may now have to cut back some of the excess and redo the spade connections. Last night I got to the point where I almost decided to just go ahead and take all the lamp parts off and just go back to using the lock nuts and cutting the housing. Does anyone have any tips on a way to easily align those four mounting screws with the holes on the back? I would hope I don't have to go through this struggle any time I would need to remove the housing in the future to change a light bulb. I may just go ahead and replace all the warning lights with LEDs right now to avoid having to do it later. Does anyone have a link to the appropriate LED replacement bulb for the warning lights?

I have not measured the amp draw. The heated grips were installed when I bought the bike. The instructions indicate a 0.2amp power draw for the gauge and instruct to use accessory power for the main gauge power and to use dash lighting power for the gauge lighting power. When I initially powered up the speedo, its internal clock was already running and displayed a time of 5:06, not the expected 12:00 like when power goes out on the microwave. This tells me there is some internal battery for it. Also, the 4 hour GPS "memory" also alludes to an internal battery and not a constant power draw. Otherwise the GPS "memory" should be permanent. However, this is all speculation. What is the best way to measure the amp draw when both the speedo and grips are on and also the best way to measure if there is a vampire power draw when the bike is off?

I wired up the speedo last night. On the test it powered up and acquired its GPS signal with no issue. I used the original light wire to power the speedo lights. I already had a power line tapped into the daytime running light for my heated grips so I pig-tailed off of that to provide the main power to the speedo so I shouldn't have any interruption in the power when starting. One thing I read in the instructions, and I don't know if the older models have this or not, is that the GPS location is saved for 4 hours. In some earlier posts I read that some people had an issue with the speed needing to re-acquire the signal every time the bike was turned off. Seems like this 4 hour location save should help that. GPS QUICK START - GPS location is saved internally for up to a 4 hour period. After 4 hours it will take 30-40 seconds to acquire signal again. The jury is still out on what I will do with the back cover. I plan to make the final decision tonight...

You are right, the OD of the lock nuts is too much for the un-modified cover to slip over them. Even trimming off the ribs would not get it thin enough for the cover to slip over. A back-up option I am noodling is having my friend 3D print me a new back cover which is slightly adjusted to accommodate the larger diameter of the lock nuts. But I think the cover would then protrude over the metal dash plate. In order to use the original cover, I need to either trim it back or find an alternate way of securing the gauges such as the lamp parts method demonstrated on some of the earlier pages of this thread.

I made some progress on the installation this weekend. The wiring was a breeze utilizing spade connectors on the Speedhut wires to connect to the existing wiring on the bike. All of the Speedhut wiring fits easily into the space in the back cover. I didn't even unravel it. For the o-ring, I just cut the original o-ring/gasket and removed some of the material to leave two square o-rings of the right size. Here are pics of the new tach next to the old speedometer. The new one is a little bigger. Here is a pic of the tach all lit up! I still need to decide what to do about the back cover of the gauges. I am now leaning towards doing what previous user amstaf did and trim the "cups" to fit around the Speedhut lock nuts and then secure it using three M4 screws from behind threaded into the existing screw mounts on back of the warning light cluster. The Speedhut lock nuts secure the gauge really well. I am just worried about water potentially getting into the cups around the seal. I will probably remove the o-ring that I currently have between the lock nut and the dash and then move it to behind the lock nut so that it presses against the "cups"

They finally arrived! Here are my speedhut gauges. The new design has removable clips for the cables so they can be disconnected during installation. Both came with the inner o-ring to help weather proof the glass seal. The bezels now have two little lock tabs which need depressed in order to unscrew them. Now I need to decide how I want to secure the back housing in the gauge cluster. I think I am going to attempt something similar to doc’s method by using the three screw holes on the back of the warning light cluster.

I also wear full face helmets. I have not had any issues removing the ear plugs, they have a little tab that sticks out to grab them by. Can't do it with gloves on though. One note specific to my situation is that the bigger JBL speakers on the Cardo though don't fit completely into the pre-made speaker indentations in my helmet (HJC i10) which causes them to protrude a bit and rub on my ears when putting the helmet on. When this happens, the earplugs sometimes get dislodged while putting the helmet on and I need to get my fingers in there and re-secure them. This caused me to one time push the ear plug in too far and sideways which was not a good situation. I did have a little difficulty that one time getting it back out. But I blame this on user error and my specific helmet set up. When I use my other helmet (Sena Outrush R), without the big speakers I have no issues at all with the earplugs when putting the helmet on and off. There is a huge improvement of the Cardo Freecom 4x vs the built in Sena on the Outrush R helmet. Volume, sound quality, voice communication with Siri, voice communication with the Cardo system are all far better features that the Sena does not have.

Has anyone tried an inline resistors with the LED turn signals to regulate the flashing? I am contemplating this upgrade and have a few of these laying around. https://www.af1racing.com/OXOF374-Resistor-Pair

I wear these earplugs which are great for reducing wind noise and other high pitched sounds. Its nice with the little keychain case so I always have a place to put them when I take them out. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Protection-Motorsports-Parachuting-Open-Topped/dp/B08FDH1XKL/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=motorcycle+ear+plugs&qid=1689253641&sr=8-3 I have a Cardo Freedom 4x with the upgraded JBL speakers in my helmet. I really like it. The sound for music is much better than the Sena one I have for my second helmet. The Cardo also integrates with Siri on my iphone. So I leave the phone in my jacket pocket and have complete voice control over music, phone calls, text messages, and GPS directions. Also the Cardo has a build in FM radio which is nice sometimes, but the antenna is so small that I only pick up the strongest radio stations.

I'll be going there in October! Any tips/recommendations for what do in the area?

Unfortunately I just placed a Speedhut order 2 weeks ago or I would have jumped on this. For reference for anyone looking, I just payed Speedhut ~$500 for the same two gauges.

Well I placed my order for SpeedHut replacement gauges. Just under $500 out the door. I went with the design below. The background is gray instead of white. I really wanted them to glow red at night and they did not offer a white face/red glow option. So I went with gray. I think they look pretty good! I'm sure I'll be stopping back by this thread after they are delivered when I go to attempt the installation.

Last night I finally completed my Decent Tune up. I got my throttle bodies balanced and set the idle. I did have a little issue with the tubes from the Carbtune. I originally hung the Carbtune from the handlebar like the instructions tell me too, unfortunately I didn't notice right away that the routing caused the tube to be in contact with the engine. After I was making good progress on the tuning, the bars in the tuner started to not respond and were behaving strangely. I tuned off the bike to take a break and saw that I had melted one of the tubes... So after fixing that and using my lawnmower handle to hang the Carbtune towards the back of the bike and route the tubes clearly away from the engine I had no problem getting the carbs synced up. I did have a little overheating issue prior to getting the idle set despite having a fan blowing on the engine during tuning. However, after I let it cool down, I got the idle set nicely and took her for a spin. Wow, this bike is just so pleasing to ride! Makes me feel guilty that I don't pay as much attention to my V7 anymore...

After a little bit of reading on their site, they do offer a non-flammable version which does not use mineral spirits and therefore will not swell rubber.

DeOxit is great stuff on electronics but not really great on rubbers. 75% of its formulation is mineral spirits. https://caig.com/product/deoxit-d5s-6-lmh/

Thanks Docc. I had the dimensions and photos from that thread printed out and took them to a few places around and nobody was wanting to do it. I don't have the tools necessary for cutting metal to do it myself.

Hi Max, Welcome to the forum. I am also in Columbus. I have been looking around town for a metal fabricator to build me a tail delete for my 2000 V11. Would this be something in your wheelhouse?

I also recommend reading the document called "How to remap your bike for CARC, Breva 750, V7 Classic, California 1100" found at the end of that hyperlink. It told me all I needed to know. I just went through this last week. http://griso.org/

So yesterday evening I confirmed it was a voltage drop which was causing the Guzzidiag disconnect. I checked the battery voltage after work and the voltage held steady throughout the day at 12.5V. I put the charger back on it and brought it to about 13.0V. I then booted up Guzzidiag, connected, started the engine, and the connection held! After I got the bike up to temperature I was able to adjust the CO trim. It was initially set to -50. I tried a few small adjustments of increasing by 5 at a time. The frustrating thing was that Guzzidiag is forcing me to exit the program after each adjustment. It won't let me make multiple changes to the CO trim without first closing the program, shutting off the bike, reopening the program, restart the bike, and then make the next adjustment. Oh well, just a minor inconvenience. I decided to just go finish with a CO trim setting of -5. After that I went for a ride and HOT DAMN is that throttle smooth!! I am now about 3/4 of the way through the Decent Tune up with each step making a noticeable improvement in the engine performance. Up next is the throttle body balance. After that I will probably play around with tweaking the CO trim some more and try a couple of the bin files floating around to see how they feel.

Hey everyone, I'm digging up this old post as I experienced a similar situation. Yesterday was my first boot up of Guzzidiag. I have the official Lonelec cables, used the cable driver from the Guzzidiag site. The latest Guzzidiag version. I was able to connect to the V11 no problem. Used the reader to save my current map and the went to check the CO trim. But here's where the problem happened. The connection between Guzzidiag and the bike was just fine until it asked me to start the engine. Upon starting the connection broke and the software froze. I had to end the task and restart. Tried again and the same thing. I repeated this a couple times without changing anything (insanity I know...). So I gave up for the night and started researching the wealth of information on this site and found the above post about a voltage drop being the likely root cause of the disconnect. I believe Guzzidiag inadvertently diagnosed that I have a dying battery. I checked my battery voltage and it was down to 11.8V or about 20% state of charge. And now with this new info looking back I have also had a few start issues where it takes me two times to get it going. I put the battery on the charger for a bit last night and got it back up to 12.8V and this morning I am at 12.5V. This evening I will charge it back up to 12.8V and attempt the CO trim adjustment to confirm that the voltage drop is the root cause of the disconnect. Btw, I was able to display the current CO trim setting on the bike which is at -50. I just couldn't 'Finish' the adjustment. So if the bad battery is confirmed, I think I am going to switch over to a lighter lithium one.

So not today but over the weekend I got through my first valve adjustment, spark plug re-gap, TPS reset, and brake fluid flush performed on the V11. Next up is the throttle body balance followed by the GuzziDiag CO trim adjustment. I also acquired a few of those Viton o-rings to replace the originals on the air bypass screws. Almost done with the decent tune up! Is it recommended to re-map the ECU with the Meinolf map no matter what? Or do the re-map only if a performance improvement seems necessary?

The front fairing on my 2000 V11 is fiberglass. The side fairings are plastic. I took mine to a couple body shops for an estimate on a repair on a deep scratch, not a crack. Both of their first response was "How much is a new one??" Both shops came in at about $350 for a complete resurface including sanding, repairing the deep scratches and repainting. The paint was the most expensive part where they told me that the paint alone was over $100 in their materials cost. The second shop told me the best way is to just do it myself and gave me pointers on grit of sandpaper and how to paint. The biggest thing he emphasized is to allow a couple days of curing between coats of paint and the clearcoat. He told me to leave it out in the sun for a couple days to dry between coats. He estimated it would probably take me a month to do it myself if I followed his advice. So as a temporary fix I just got a color match paint pen from autozone and colored in the scratches while I ponder what my long term solution will be.

Just sharing a couple pics of my recent audio projects Original Large Advents fully recapped, refoamed, reupholstered, and rebadged. In here you can see the Marantz 2270 which is currently on my bench for a full restoration. Heathkit W5-M monoblock amps fully recapped and restored. Before pic. The after pic of the W5-Ms with my Bozak 302a Urbans, which also have been fully recapped and upgraded crossover