DucatiGuzziIndian

As requested, after a 40 minute ride back from the pub after an emergency beer (or 3). No IPA today sorry Tom! Fuse block as viewed from the right hand side of the bike.

All we ever leave behind, no matter how revered or unknown we are, is the example of the life we have lead and the good that instills in others that follow..

Any engineer with half a brain would know alloy gears are a no no.

how many miles on that Phil?

Marty Bike only has 3,000 miles on it (5,000k) And I'm a bit anal about keeping stuff in pristine condition.. I suffer from CDO (it's like OCD but all the letters are in alphabetical order as they should be!! ) Many thanks for your help mate!

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Hmmmm Maybe I didn't add those videos correctly...

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Completed rear view

I managed to complete the LED turn signal conversion with the help of the great advice from you guys.... many thanks. I tidied up the rear end at the same time because I never really liked the stock rear fender. I have attached photos and the parts I used. The diode advice was invaluable and although it was a little fiddly to do, it was pretty simple in the end. I am not an electrical whizz that is for sure, but I was able to figure it out. The diodes specified earlier in this thread worked perfectly. They needed to be installed inside the instrument housing. I purchased the LED turn signal flasher unit that docc recommended above and swapped that out quickly and easily. I purchased LED turn signals and LED brake lights from Amazon and went to a local electronics supplier for the diodes and 12v LED dash indicator lamp. I had to file the new LED dash indicator lamp outer ring a little so that it fitted into the square hole in the instrument housing where the old lamp resided. I then added some small O-rings to the outer body of the lamp to take up the free play between the LED body and the hole it fitted into. These O-rings created just enough resistance to make sure it doesn't slide around in the hole so that was a stroke of luck. I also purchased an off the shelf fender eliminator bracket from Cyclegear (a retail motorcycle parts store). There are many different fender eliminators around and while the license plate and turn signal holders are all fairly common from one type to the next (a simple rectangle with four holes for the license plate and a two bent "L" shaped brackets with holes for the turn signal stalks), the connection to the bike under the seat cowl is the tricky bit. The item I purchased had an extension that went up above the plate and signal brackets that was around 100-120 mm high with a variety of slots in it. The slots just happened to allow use of the three fasteners (with some added spacers) under the seat, where the stock bracket connected. Another lucky coincidence. I tried to find an image of this on the Cyclegear website but they don't show it so apologies for that. I simple bent piece of aluminium plate 100mm wide x 1.5 - 2.00mm thick would work. After you form it, and drill the mounting holes, just clean it with solvent and spray it satin black. To those who are not electrically inclined and to those that think this is a difficult task, I will say it may take some care, detailed thinking and a day of time but the brightness of the LEDs makes it worthwhile. And the cost is low; total for me was around $100 USD. The turn signals are sequential and are so much brighter than stock. The brake lights are also a huge improvement in visibility. I chose a second LED brake light for added visibility for two reasons; the main upper tail light is tucked up pretty high and I was concerned about how visible it would be and I also wanted a more noticeable indication of when I was braking. The lower second brake light I installed (Custom Dynamics brand) flashes a few times when activated and then stays on. This is many times more noticeable than the upper brake light I installed. I'll try to add a video to show this. This light is attached with VHB tape directly to the license plate frame. My last task yet to be completed, is to cut a piece of black 1.5mm thick ABS plastic sheet to fit behind the license plate and extend upwards to the underside of the cowl just to keep dirt and water spray from directly hitting wires and fasteners. At some stage I may look at shortening the aluminum blocks that the front turn signals mount to. They are the stock indicator mounts but they are a little on the long side for my liking.

I found that eating a lot more pizza and drinking copious quantities of beer enlarged my stomach to the point it helped with a more forward weight bias on my Greenie! Just a suggestion..

A photo during installation. I will post more later under the "What did you do for your V11 today" thread

So I managed to let one of the Mistral exhaust hangers accidentally touch a rag with gasoline on it while installing the mufflers. I noticed a small blemish in the paint. When I wiped it with a new clean rag, all the paint came off. The initial contact area with the rag was perhaps 20 to 25mm, (an inch or so), but the vapors and proximity affected a larger area. My fault entirely but the paint is obviously rubbish.... I had to soak both hangers in solvent, wipe them clean, sand them lightly and apply a proper aluminum primer and satin black top coat. Not impressed. Why do the Italians take such shortcuts on some things?? You'd think they would be powder coated or at least have a properly applied primer and top coat. So annoying!

Adding a couple more photos... Happy to send high resolution photos to anyone if needed. Will be packed and wrapped properly to ensure no damage in shipment.

I have decided that with the new Mistral exhaust I have recently fitted, I do not need these any longer. I really like the new Mistrals' (will post photos shortly) Condition is excellent and they are original Guzzi parts. Happy to ship anywhere in the world. Not really sure what these are worth but was thinking around $400 plus shipping.

ill report back on that but ill need a week or so because.... life!!!

The Flir was a gift from a buddy that is a sales rep but it has come in handy. I am not electrically minded. A good question..... I'll check it out in three next day or so and report back. and I'll probably do the same check on occasion going forward.... it may help preempt problems. I figure once resistance starts affecting any contacts, it will probably be a cycle of more resistance = more heat = more resistance and so on.

After reading docc’s concerns about leaving the 30 amp fuse in place while charging, I checked mine. Attached is a thermal image of my fuse set after 24 hours on a battery tender. No heat to worry about

is that sump a little wet on the back end Docc?

Great suggestion on the lit fuse.... I'll get online and order some today. Thanks