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The one that broke was OEM original, or at least that’s my assumption. I only bought the bike last fall so I don’t know much about its service or repair history.

@Scud if you have any remaining springs, I’m in need of one as mine broke last weekend. I’ve sent you a PM with my contact details. Thank you!

Adding my own experience, I started using Shorai many years ago after I got tired of replacing dead lead-acid batteries in my Ducati 900SS due to infrequent use. The first Shorai worked flawlessly for over 6 years and was especially great for hot starts (which the old lead-acids struggled with on that bike). I also made zero modifications to the charging/regulating system despite warnings online that vintage 90's Ducatis + lithium technology batteries = regulator/rectifier death. So far I've had no issues of such concern. I've never owned or used the special Shorai charger but maybe once every year or two would connect my old-school Battery Tender trickle charger for a few hours and it would quickly show "OK" My understanding is that when lithium batteries die they typically give you no warning. Not wanting to get stranded I decided after 6 years it would be a good idea to replace the Shorai in the Ducati with an identical battery... so I moved the old one into my lawn mower where it worked great for another 2 seasons and was still installed when I sold the mower last year.

Thank you! I just ordered it.

So obviously holding the rotor with a screwdriver against the rotor fin and adjacent stator housing bolt head didn't work... what's the trick to keeping the engine from turning while you remove the nut off the rotor? I need to pull the alternator to replace my leaking timing cover gasket... hopefully I haven't just cost myself $400 worth or alternator by breaking off this cooling fin? I also tried having my wife hold the rear brake with the transmission in gear but that didn't work either (too much leverage at the crankshaft I guess?) I quit for the night before I broke anything else out of frustration. And I did check the service manual but step #1 of alternator removal is to remove the engine from the bike (!!!). Surely there's a way to avoid that, isn't there?!

Thank you @docc! It looks like that’s exactly what I have going on. Odd that they left the rest of the hardware though. They just yanked out the two pieces of hose at the T-fitting.

I'm trying to locate the actual fittings on my '03 that correspond to item #5 on the attached diagram of the EVAP system. The "T" fitting on mine is broken off and as dumb as it sounds I haven't had any success in tracing the hose path to find the connection spot(s) at the throttle body. Can someone please post an actual photograph of where those fittings are and what they look like? Are they upstream of the throttle plate or downstream? I would think they'd need to be downstream to operate in a state of vacuum but I'm just not seeing anything there on my bike.

Thank you everyone for your prompt replies to my questions. I'll rest a bit easier that my orientation vs. the parts diagram isn't a terrible concern. I will pay attention to the spline orientation with regards to the marks when I reassemble and double-check that the marks actually phase the yokes correctly. About my challenge to separate the yoke from the final drive input spline, any thoughts on how to proceed?

Hello all, I bought my first Guzzi a few weeks ago. It's an '03 LeMans of unknown mileage (speedo replaced, no records to reference). All signs so far point to it having been a neglected bike with lots of deferred maintenance I'm sorting through. Right now the driveshaft has my attention. I intended to pull it off the bike to get a good look at the spline conditions at both ends. In the process I've come across a few things that I need your help to gain knowledge about. 1) first off... is my driveshaft installed backwards?! Is that even possible? (and if so, could anything be damaged as a result?) Looking at the parts diagram, it appears the O.D. of the front section is smaller than the O.D. of the rear section. Or to put it another way, the end that connects to the engine/transmission has the grease zerk on the shaft, and the end without the grease zerk installs to the final drive. As you can see in the attached pictures though, on my bike the shaft section with the zerk on the shaft is connected to the final drive, and the larger O.D. section is installed to the engine/transmission. 2) I have the pinch bolts completely removed from the yoke on the final drive but I still can't pull the yoke off the final drive input shaft. What could be holding it on still? Is it OK to apply some "persuasive force" to get it apart? 3) I've seen lots of warning both on this forum and in the owners/service manuals about the necessity to make sure the alignment marks on the driveshaft are, well, in alignment... but what occurs if they aren't aligned? I ask because mine were indexed at least 60-degrees apart before I separated the driveshaft and I have no idea how long it had been run that way. These are the first of many questions to come but they're the brightest burning ones right now in this maintenance adventure. Thanks in advance for your help!