MotoKnee

As much for my own clarification as yours My understanding of circuits discussed: Assuming you find no power going to fuses 6 and 7, and even though the Hi/Low beams work, the IGN switch could still be suspect because the wire pair (1 and 2) work thru a different contact than wire pair 3 and 4. A broken wire (or dirty contact) on 3 or 4 would cut power to both the tail light and the turn signals. I don't think relays are involved as they are not used in the tail light or turn signal circuit. The schematic I'm looking at may not apply to your bike, and I'm often wrong.

To test for power from ign switch to fuses: remove both fuses from fuse holder. turn on key. set meter to DC volts touch black lead to negative battery terminal. then, one at a time, touch red lead to each fuse terminal. 1 side of each fuse should have 12v present. If not, you may have ign switch issue.

In the schematic I'm looking at, it appears that the taillight and the turn signals have a wire in common. That is the wire that comes from the ignition switch and supplies power to both fuse 6 and fuse 7. Fuse 6 supplies the taillight and fuse 7 supplies the the turn signals. You could check for 12V at the input side of either fuse (red and gray wire in the schematic). If no power is present at the fuse, you may need to clean/inspect the wiring in the ignition switch.

And maybe give the flasher unit a look and a spritz of cleaner?

My reaction rod has about a mm of up/down play at the frame end, tight at the bevel box end. No obvious wear of the bushing, 3500 miles on the bike. The bolt at the front is marked as 10.9 NORM, which is different than the unmarked rear bolt. The rod and bushing move together w/ respect to the bolt, as if the bolt diameter is too small. No washers or spacers on the bolt head or on the nut end. I would like to remove the bolt for inspection, but not sure how much disassembly is necessary. Wheel off, drive supported etc. Or can it removed with the bike on the sidestand? Thanks for any guidance.

I now see that change in another schematic, fuse 5 power goes to pin 30 of the headlight relay, start relay pin 30 from switched ignition. That change is on the 2002 models? I was hoping to wait until winter maintenance to remove the tank for a wiring inspection (my sidestand switch has been removed, want a look at the jumper, also want to inspect regulator connections, bullet connectors) and a general see what's what. Don't want to miss prime riding weather due to cranking that sticky manual fuel shut off and creating a gas leak.

Thanks for checking, how about now? Added the remaining relays for a little more clarity.

I drew it up in Paint based off of Carl Allison schematic. It can be easily changed if anyone spots a mistake etc.

As I am old, simple and half blind, I wanted a simple, easy to read start circuit diagram to load into my phone to refer to if stuck somewhere with no cell service. Might be helpful to others trying to remember how the circuit is laid out w/o a schematic in front of them. assuming it is drawn correctly etc.

Is your pic from the Cars and Coffee meet yesterday? I drove thru later in the morning, apparently too late. I think I'm going for coffee and homemade pie in Glenwood WA tomorrow (via Klickitat) if anyone else is in the mood. Hopefully an early start before morning traffic will mean an early return before afternoon rush.

Thx Phil, and just spray WD-40 in the needle bearing, followed by marine grease?

Wanted to have a look at the rear transmission and get some grease into the evil 3rd zerk. Took a couple of hours to assemble new front wheel chock, modify an old paddock stand, install some ceiling anchors, and get the wheel off. Took twice that long to get the zerk to take grease What is the best way to clean up these corroded parts? I wasn't going to remove the swingarm, but now thinking that would be the way to go. Or can it wait until winter maintenance season?