MotoKnee

15 years ago a few guys with some sense seemed to like the idea of a cushier cush drive. I wondered if the idea held up over time. (Phil votes NAY)

I'm a big fan of using stuff that is already paid for. Did you do the swiss cheese or just a clean and lube?

Hmm I was going to use a generic silicone grease in my toolbox. Mebbe I'll try to locate some of the magic stuff before putting my freshly drilled parts back in. Wheel will be off until I get the swingarm greased, transmission cover work done, and a few other rando projects. Thx

Well, did you do the swiss cheese thing? Is it still a thing? Mine is disassembled and ready, just need to decide to do it, or not. Was quite pleased with the condition of the coupler parts, no corrosion to speak of, and only had to axe murder one of the button head screws.

Only had my wheel off once, but seem to recall this spacer?

I drew up the first diagram to help me understand my own bike, the second to follow what's being discussed in these threads. Both are based on Carl A schematics. I find them helpful, others may not.

Sorry for the confusion Docc. Here's the deal. I noticed the ebay ad a few days before the John Day rally. The ad read 2 V11s for sale, and a price of $13,000. No mention of $13k each. Hence the inference that $13k was for the pair, not just by me but also a friend that I sent the link to see if he wanted one. I guess we are both idiots. I checked the ad immediately after the rally and the price had been dropped to $9000. I still assumed it was for the pair as there was still no mention of $9k each. This price was only up for a day or two, then the ad went away. I no longer cared because it was at this time I had found a Greenie locally. It wasn't until Activpop mentioned he had spoken with the seller and the price was $13k each, that the $9k must have also been for each. I only posted in the first place because in the original ad, he gave more history and details, including the extra wheel, and thought maybe someone else had seen it.

Activpop stated he wanted $13k each, and I agreed that must be correct. The seller then lowered the price to $9000 each. ??

If you spoke in person, I'm sure you must be right. $13k seems optimistic, the $9000 he dropped to immediately after the rally is fairly significant.

That looks like one of the two V11s that the seller had for sale on eBay earlier this summer. The other was an equally nice Rosso Mandello I think. He was asking $13,000 for the pair and had trailered them to the MGNOC rally in John Day, Oregon. They apparently didn't sell there and afterward he listed them for $9000 for the pair, then the listing was taken down soon after.

Best of the best, absolutely stunning.

Summer's last Walz

As much for my own clarification as yours My understanding of circuits discussed: Assuming you find no power going to fuses 6 and 7, and even though the Hi/Low beams work, the IGN switch could still be suspect because the wire pair (1 and 2) work thru a different contact than wire pair 3 and 4. A broken wire (or dirty contact) on 3 or 4 would cut power to both the tail light and the turn signals. I don't think relays are involved as they are not used in the tail light or turn signal circuit. The schematic I'm looking at may not apply to your bike, and I'm often wrong.

To test for power from ign switch to fuses: remove both fuses from fuse holder. turn on key. set meter to DC volts touch black lead to negative battery terminal. then, one at a time, touch red lead to each fuse terminal. 1 side of each fuse should have 12v present. If not, you may have ign switch issue.