stormsedge

Went direct to the battery on mine with a fused link, but admittedly you have to be sure you shut them down when you get off or the battery goes away...that fuel petcock wire is an interesting possibility I hadn't considered...will give that a go next time I have the tank off. For an amatuer electrician- -why would I need a relay? How would it wire in? Can I get a relay block similar to the ones already on the bike and use one of my spares/old relays in it? Thanks. k

Had a Shoei for a long time...very good helmet, but never really fit might head right with a pressure point on the top forward of my head that required rest stops to relieve after an hour or so of riding. Currently have a HJC, which fits alot better, but is pretty noisy and prone to fogging. k

It really draws some air...you can see the imprint of the air filter ridges perfectly where it tried to suck the insulator through it!

My Stucchi didn't fit very well either...used the stock cans, and have held off buying FbF cans for fear of a worse fit. k

DW, you tell me and we'll both know. Locktited them and cranked them back in there...pretty big bolts, used a 3/8" ratchet to prevent overtorque on them...haven't found a good torque chart for this bike, so rely on more than a few years of turning bolts. Funny...the only bolt I've ever sheared was with my torque wrench! If someone has a good torque chart for this bike, I'd love to have it. k

While you are checking bolts for tightness...check the ones on either side that hold the motor rigid as part of the frame...mine were loose and once tightened, changed the vibration characteristics. k

It's fixed! Under the heading of "Things that Happen Simultaneously Rendering Logical Thought Inadequate"...I found the culprit after all the pain and thought over the valve train and potential electrical gremlins affecting the fuel injection, I decided today (since I finally was in town long enough to do it) to remove all the relays (thanks Tex and Dlaing), and pull the tank to get at the wiring harness---in hopes that I might eradicate some water intrusion or condensation---strangely, when I reached under the tank, to pull the vacuum lines free, my hand was blocked by something that felt like sticky cardboard...a visual identified it as the aluminum foil covered tank insulator---now with a perfect imprint of my open K&N filter impressed on it---apparently it had come unstuck and the Guzzi had resolutely attempted to suck it through the filter for disposal through the exhaust---well, we know how that worked out. A little double sided tape (okay, it was duct tape, but had I had double sided tape, that would have been the ticket) and it is as good as new. Whew...now I can go back to setting the valves a little more open to see how it acts in the upcoming hot weather (which was the purpose of the original drill anyway). It's always the simple stuff...and in this case it cost me a week of lost riding in the Ozarks... ...but I recommend Branson for anyone, especially with family...even if you can't take your bike. k

Mine is at about 425mV. k

Tach not working, all idiot lights out except neutral light, headlight works, but not high beam...brake lights do not work. This is an additional problem to the poor power problem described following setting of valves. Thoughts?

Just bought a half dozen from Harper's at $7.50 US ea. k

Tried swapping the relays around (twice) as no one in my burgeoning metropolis has them. No change except I have managed to lose the tach and warning lights --fuses are okay, so if anyone has an idea there as well, let fly. I'll have to let it set for a couple of days as other duties call. k

Tex, no, I still have the originals and I wondered if they might be the cause. I will give this a try as soon as I can get back into the garage. Thanks. k

Recap: Bike was running fine, but had an occasional little pop in the exhaust at cruise + - 3K RPM in lower gears through town after rolloff. I had parked the bike for about a week and rolled it out cold to set the valves, thinking that was the problem...the real problems started on third gear rap of test ride...first and second gear had been up close to yellow, maybe red. In third, began missing/sputtering/cutting out/diving/losing power generally between 3500-6000 rpm. The bike was not doing this when I parked it. The only change to anything prior to parking it was that it had been out in the torrential rain a couple of times in the parking lot at work and I'd bought gas at an unfamiliar station (but done 107 miles on that tank). I reset the valves to where I'd started and put some Heet gas treatment in it...no change. One sparkplug is showing richer than the other--I changed the plugs just in case I had a bad one...TPS reading and mercury sticks still look good. Compression is sat. Bike has 7500 miles on it. I am now suspicious of: electrical system injection system fuel timing chain Btw, the symptoms remain basically the same with PCIII in circuit or out, ruling out a freak mapping problem. Ideas? k

And I've discovered mine won't run (and bike won't crank) when in gear with the kickstand down...okay, I actually knew it before, but forgot in the middle trying to straighten out some other mechanical mayhem in the garage...the dog was very amused. k

Wow...I thought mine was really cool...but now I feel outdone...or is that overdone? k

I had a vibration noise similar to your description after installing my Stucchi x-over...turned out to be the bracket for the kickstand bracket was too close to pipe after the install and it was vibrating...did a little pry with a big screwdriver and it went away. k

Richard, the idle adjustment is a set screw...outboard your white knob on the left throttle body (and in the same place on the right throttle body, which places it inboard)...probably has the same yellow paint on it the white linkage sych knob has for identification purposes. k

Well, if anyone gets the earlier described throttle cam on paper, I'd like a copy...one of the things I like least is the change of line in turns...PCIII helped it a little bit, but still need to tiker with it. k

I have the EBC HH. Better feel, better power, not certain there is any less lever needed. Only on for about 500 miles so far. k

Welcome Easto. You're going to love it. k

Carl, hope you feel better. k

I'd go for the AC as well due to the humidity and mosquitoes. k

But, on a practical level, I'll buy one when the price is right because I can do anything and everything to it on the side of the road and just about every one horse town has a shop selling parts. Just waiting for that price to get right...waiting...waiting...waiting. k

Yes, trading paint is almost mever a gppd thing. Amazing how we manage to get soooo close sometimes with all that water! k

Thanks, dlaing. Exactly what I was looking for. k