stormsedge

Docc, aren't you on the road to Birmingham? No texting while riding

The direction where it is spinning is the direction to unscrew it (tightening resets the trip). Can you tell if the plastic hull of the broken knob is spinning around the threaded bush? If so, you may have to gently gently (did I mention gently) squeeze it with small needlenose plier to get it started. (Mine has no set screw either...although it would be nice to hold it on). k

My odometer went away a year or so ago...am surviving on the trip and a log book. I will watch your progress with alternatives, but will probably end up with the Garmin. That way Docc can flash me the trip tick. Cheers. k

Too late to question your decision now...ride on!

My bike was missing the right one when I purchased it second hand. The guy I bought it from was plainly scared of riding it...the handling really tighened up with replacement of the bolt. Loctite is your friend. k

I got my last one from MPH Cycles http://www.mphcycles.com/ about two years or so ago. Do not know if they still have any stocked. Talk with Todd. k

Super bike. Look forward to your build. k

I wonder if the screen in your pan is clogged from sitting for so long?

I ended up putting mine in the tray as well. Do a visual check of all the connectors to be sure you do not have pushed pin (one that is pushed further back into the plug due to some small misalignment when plugging up). And, as you already mentioned, make sure none of your wires are pinched. Cheers. k

That could be it too...if you've inadvertently pinched some wires or pushed a pin in the connectors. If you've disconnected the PCIII and all runs normally, I'd suspect something to do with the install immediately. If you disconnect and the problem still exists, then something else is causing it that "happened to you" coincident with the PCIII install. I once loaded some new parameters in my PCIII as a step in my tuning procedure...during which I also reset my TPS--bad move--I gooned the TPS reset and spent days loading and reloading/changing the PCIII settings before having to admit (after disconnecting the PCIII) that there was another problem. Once TPS was set, everything settled in nicely. Just make sure your bike runs okay without the PCIII before going any further. k

The news sharks have been testing octane ratings at various pumps here in US...findings indicate most octane claims are higher than that coming from the pump, and the gas coming from the pump is all over the scale. You must have gotten the real deal.

I doubt the PCIII is causing it...on my RM, it takes a pretty big change in the programming of the PCIII to see a big change in the bike. I do have the accel pump function activated. Try disconnecting the PCIII and riding your bike under the same circumstances. If you have an open top air box, it sounds like your under tank insulator may have come loose and is sucking down closing off your air flow.

I ended up doing a complete oil and filter change early on, carefully measuring the oil...ran it to ensure filter was filled, let it set overnight---then notched my dipstick (er, the engine dipstick) at the oil level with her sitting on the sidestand. The result was above the factory mark. All that to say, if it is just a little (a matter of perspective of course) over the factory mark when you have the bike upright...I doubt it will spill or cough oil (also noting that I have been known to overfill even my marked notch). I think it more likely as others suggest that you are experiencing seepage at the frame nut, the oil line banjo nut, the oil sender, or the ignition pickup. Also, the last time I had a "spill" from the frame/breather area as you describe, it took some time for all the oil to accept the effects of gravity...you may be seeing some of the remainder slough off. Keep smiling. k

My memory suggests it is not compatible with the Tenni. Have you checked the Power Commander website or queried Todd at Guzzitech? k

White would be very cool and leave you unlimited options for trim/accent colors. k

MPH risers here...saving for the footpeg relocators.

normal...they fade.

I drenched mine in green Loctite as an alternative to JB Weld...so far so good. Interesting thread concerning the gasket thickness and air gap...may have to look at that myself. k

I second the motion. AND, thanks to docc and all who make it more like a family reunion. I have been inspired to detail my bike...it cannot remain the dirtiest spine in America. Keep smiling. k

At 0600 this morning, local stations reporting Friday as partly sunny H85/L55, Saturday partly sunny H88/L62, Sunday 30% chance of rain H88/62...looking pretty good if the weather patterns maintain transit speeds.

Docc, where and when do you anticipate join up and breakfast on Saturday AM? I'm planning to join you for the day. k

Wwwweeeelllll...if I do not get the helicoil in my valve cover, we can share wiping rags...ha ha. k

When sitting on the bike, the left side corresponds to the foot with the red sock on it...the right side has the foot with the green sock (an old Sailor joke) k

Yup. The 6mm goes through the mounting plate for the sensor. Funny, on the diagram that Tom supplied (which is the correct diagram by the way-no dispute), the large bolt is shown going to one of the 6mm holes on the side of the crankcase vice the large hole forward and up fm there that it actually goes into...the hole indicated on the diagram is normally inhabited by mud packing insects on my bike. k

A quick run to the garage -- you are correct. One large bolt to crankcase holding sidestand...one smaller bolt holding the stand sensor. Do not have a picture, but the MG workshop manual has these words: "Stand Removal. Remove the stand sensor "A" by unscrewing screw "B"...Remove the side stand by unscrewing screw "C" fastening it to the crankcase." Reassembly the reverse. Make sure you have that baby on a stand before loosing that bolt. Hope this helps. k