slug

I should have mentioned that Dirty Bird is an '04 refitted with a pre-'04 fuel tank and external fuel pump. Worm type. I'll make sure they're all tight 'n stuff. I was thinking of sending them in to Lindertech before this happened. Guess I have a better reason to get off my butt and do it. You have an approximate cost for the service?

Last weekend I pulled Dirty Bird out of the garage for a little run (hasn't been ridden in over a month). It idled for a while and after it warmed up and I turned the fast idle lever off, it ran for a minute more then suddenly died. Weird. I went over to the bike and found gas dripping to the ground. Some of the gas was coming from the T-junction where the main fuel line branches off to the LH injector. I also pulled the velocity stack off and found a large pool of gas inside the throttle body. I think it may have been a tad too rich on that side . Is this a sign of a bad injector, electrical gremlin, overactive fuel pump, bad pressure regulator (if it has one?) or something else? Fortunately I have a long, cold winter to figure this one out...

Does anybody know what OBD2 protocol the 15M ECU uses (i.e. SAE J1850-xxx, ISO 9141-x, ISO xxx CAN)? I have an ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and a connector that fits the diagnostic port on the bike, but the OBD2 scanner software (Torque) on my Android phone doesn't seem to be able to figure out which protocol the ECU is using. Has anyone messed around with this before?

I also suggest carrying some spare circlips that hold the gear selector drum gear thingys on their shafts. They have a tendency to fly at least 20 feet away in to the grass when replacing the spring out in the field.

When mine broke I had to disassemble the speedometer to get the broken bits off. After seeing how crappy the stock knob is, I decided to make my own. No troubles since.

I recently moved to a semi-rural area and just discovered a little family-owned fuel/oil distributor that sells ethanol-free gas, including 92 octane. I don't think you can get this in any big city anymore. I can't tell for sure, but our Impreza and Ranger seem to get slightly better mileage and run smoother. Sadly, I've been too busy with home and work projects to tune up the Guzzi and really test the fuel out. If anybody here wants to come over and help finish a fence, deck and landscaping while I go out and ride, you're more than welcome.

I've had the Motobits kit for four years and have been very happy with the comfort and durability. They are very well made. Brent's service is top-notch. Now the gripe: The outward repositioning of the shift linkage creates a twisting stress on the link that attaches to the selector shaft coming out of the gear box. This link was not designed to take this force and will eventually crack and break. This has happened to me twice. I strongly suggest carrying a spare (about $20) or taking the part to a competent welder and have him build up some metal for extra strength. Even with this little headache, the Motobits kit is well worth it.

I second that. I've found that if I'm spacing out and I'm not deliberate (meaning I make sure to press all the way to the stop, not slamming the lever) with my shifts I will hit a "bonus" neutral. Redline helped me as well. As others have said, the V11 has an 11 speed gearbox: six forward gears and five neutrals.

Here I am on my old 02/03 Sport, testing out the gutting and chopping of the stock exhaust. I have two pair of slightly damaged Mistrals sitting around in storage. Maybe I should try to turn a pair of those in to shortys Not me but an awesome sound:

Very cool. This may be added to my winter projects. Thanks.

O2 sensor? Is your bike Euro spec, or am I on crack?

Very nice. What year/model Buell is that screen from? Better yet, a part number?

Yeah, I feel it too. Dec 4 marked 16 years since Frank Zappa's untimely passing. Life isn't fair.

One more quick 'n easy thing to do is clean and lube your clutch and front brake lever pivots (especially the clutch side). I didn't do this on my first V11 and the dirt/wear wore down the pivots and pivot holes to the point where there was almost 2" of up/down play on the clutch lever. I was able to tighten them up a bit with some brass shim stock, but it was a total pain in the ass. Also, when removing the levers, put a bucket below to catch the little plug and ball bearing used for the clutch and brake light switches should they fall out.